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DavidP

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  • Toyota Model
    Landcruiser
  • Toyota Year
    1989
  • Location
    New South Wales

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  • First Name
    David

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  1. Hi Adam, That's interesting. I have been noticing over recent years how brown my headlights look and have previously just put it down to age. I'll have to go hunting for that earth junction. Seems like this post just keeps on giving :) My EDIC problem has not returned now 6 years further on. Yes I still have the vehicle, sadly I had to replace the Clutch at 320,000. I had half a mind to go back to Toyota and say "Your clutch is no good"! I have often thought I'd buy another 60 new if they made them and that would easily see me out.
  2. Hi Guys, I have a 1989 HJ 60 Landcruiser and I'm looking for the Blower / Fan Resistor. The fan doesn't work on the lowest speed and I have figured out from other posts around the place that it is the blower resistor that is the problem. There seems to be several variations on this part and I want to find mine to make sure I purchase the right part. There is nothing mounted on the engine side of the firewall. I have been fishing around under the glove box but nothing obvious. I thought I'd ask here before I start pulling things off. Thanks in advance David
  3. Hi Roy, Glad you have it running again. Have you taken both the earth leads off on the engine block and on the chassis? Mine looked fine and had never been touched in 20+ years. I thought at the time that this couldn't possibly be the problem. But it was. 5 years on and the problem hasn't returned. I cleaned up both of the earth contact points and the adjacent metal with a file and wire brush until they were shiny metal. Reassembled with a touch of grease to stop it rusting. Still going like a train. "The Dog Truck" turned 30 this year and I have owned it for all of them :) David
  4. Hi Dungeon Dweller, That is very interesting and a good diagnosis. Mine has had a repeat of the problem once since my original post and some more sanding and wire brushing of various earth leads solved it for me again. Now I have another trick up my sleeve for next time. I have wondered how long a voltage regulator can actually last :) it's great to hear another 2H is still humming along. Thanks for sharing David
  5. I also bought a 45 series **** it must be 8 years ago now. It's an 84 model. I purchased it as a hobby and I restored it as original as I could. I call it The Limo as it is a troop carrier. I.e. longer than the shortie. People wave to me while im driving along. Not just the steering wheel finger, i mean propper waves. At first i thought the car was on fire. People come up to me in the street and always ask me the same question "is it a Diesel"? Sadly is isn't. I just say my other car is :) You guys have a safe trip back and be glad your not in the 45. 20k is a long way :) David
  6. Hi Joe, I wish I was out on tour :). The Simpson Desert sticker on my windows says 2005. I'm glad my post here helped you out. My Connections all looked solid when I took them off. I still can't believe this fix solves the problem. I see I drifted a bit off topic in "general conversation" To complete the thread I have since bought a Super Cheap Auto battery tray and with some creative bending and a couple of spacers, I made it fit my car and is solid as a rock. It wasn't a simple job but I enjoyed saving a few bucks while doing the job. I always say if I could buy another new 60 I would! David
  7. Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes. Might even start a new topic :)
  8. Good idea but it is plastic coated Weetbix under there. :) I have a lump of sheet metal. I plan to bang up a new one. I found some Stainless steel replacements un the US but cost way too much by the time I get it here.
  9. Hi Bill, Yes it solved the problem. I haven't done a lot of night driving since but every now and then I turn on everything just for fun :) I wasn't expecting it fix the problem as all the connections looked reasonable when I pulled them apart. There were three points to clean. The earth strap in my HJ60 connects to the body and then the same cable goes on to the engine block. Obviously the negative terminal on the battery go a shine up as well. I used a bit of sand paper on all the connections to get them back to shiny metal on all sides. I discovered the battery tray was half rusted out while I was in there and that job is still waiting for me. On my old FJ45 there are two separate earth cables from memory but it is only a petrol. If I was you I'd certainly do this simple job before even thinking about trying anything else. Good Luck and I'm keen to know if it works for you too. David
  10. It has been across the Simpson twice, once in either direction, the last time was in 2005. I can't believe that is coming up 10 years ago. When I lived in Sydney it was even stolen twice, used in a robbery and been in a police chase (it got away). I herd the thieves were driving on the footpath so the cops let them go. Now it lives a quiet life with me out on the farm and we fight rust together :) I bought a 45 series Troopie to keep her company.
  11. Problem Solved I started the car today and this time I had to turn everything on to reproduce the problem. I'm talking high beam, am fm radio, UHF radio, rear window demister, aircon, fan. Perhaps the temperature effects things as it was harder to reproduce at around 20c today. While all this stuff was turned on I watched the fuel shut off lever cycle back and forward all on its own. As soon as the engine misses the leaver snaps back to the run position before the engine has a chance to stall. The thing that moves this leaver is called the Engine Control Unit in the manual but most of the online posts I have seen call it an EDIC. I couldn't find much online about these symptoms except one post that said it was caused by a problem with the earth strap. I could see one strap from the alternator to the engine block and another from the negative battery terminal to the body then the same cable goes on to the engine block. They both seemed clean(ish) and tight. I removed the negative terminal and both connections to the body an the block and cleaned everything with wire brush and sandpaper. I also gave the crimped connections a bash with a hammer to make sure they were still tight. Put it all back together again and I couldn't reproduce the problem. It may be a different story on a cold dark morning. So at least for now I'll call it fixed. If it does it again I do the altenator earth next. I hope this helps someone else and I'm glad I tried this fix before taking it to an Auto Electrician as I'm sure they would have started replacing things before cleaning the earth strap. I have herd that EDIC thing is hugely expensive if you go for a new one. David
  12. I have been looking around for similar problems and I came across this post. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/44702-60-series-diesel-engine-stutter/?hl=stutter Sadly no solution, only one reply. No wonder it sounded like a familiar problem to Gary :) I'm a bit surprised that this question (this post) get on the top of google's hit list when I search similar key words. After thinking about this some more I had my radiator replaced a couple of weeks ago and they noticed that the alternator had come off its mounts while doing that job. I wonder if something didn't get connected back up properly. Radiator guy doing auto electrician work. Sounds risky. He could have shorted somthing or fried some delicate little bit. The plot thickens. I'm a bit reluctant to take it straight to an auto electrician and have them start replacing bits.
  13. I used to say I've had the car for 3 dogs 2 wives 1 clutch and never had the head off. The only one that has changed is the dogs. You gotta love a clutch that lasts 300k. I had it out once befor I did a Simpson desert trip at around 150k and the mechanic was pained to tell me it was still ok. So I told him to put it back and it is still going. But now Im off topic. :) I'll post the answer in a week or two or I'll be driving around in the dark.
  14. Hi Gary, Thanks for the reply. I was thinking along the same lines as you but didn't want to say anything here that would bias other peoples opinions straight off. I can't think how an injector problem could be effected by other electrical load. I had the alternator go a couple of years ago and I know it takes hardly any voltage to hold the fuel shutoff solenoid open. I drove home after clutch starting it and after an hours drive the blinkers wouldn't even flash so the battery was nearly dead flat but the engine was still going :) When I think about it I hardly ever drive at night so this problem could have been bu8ilding over several months and without the lights on I would not notice. I have done a bit of googeling and I can see that the solenoid is part of the injector pump. First think I will do it check that connection and measure the voltage at that point. Does anyone know what a good / normal voltage is at that point? Also does anyone know where the other end of that wire is connected? When I was testing in the car park I could hear what sounds like a relay opening and closing similar to the one you hear when you are waiting for the glow plugs to warm up pre start. So I'd say I have a dirty connection somewhere or some other electrical component is dirty / tired. I'm out of town this week so I won't get to try any diagnosis until the end of next week but I definitely will reply here with the answer when I find it or more questions as they form :)
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