marks_2_sparks

Thanks for the correct info. It was off the top of my head except the part number and I can hardly remember what I ate for breakfast

It's only been what, two years? It can be hard to find time to spend time working on a project car and still having time to do things like update a post. In the past couple of years I have been fighting a suspected head gasket issue on and off. It finally got to the point of where I dusted off the spare head, assembled the whole thing and put it in with new head studs. the old head was the original with 400,000ks on it and had been reused a few times so it was becoming a bit higher compression than ideal. It takes a long time to lap 20 valves and set all clearances especially when you have to custom grind shims to suit. a diamond knife block works great on the hardened steel shims. I got it all changed over with no issues and drove it around on the weekend then on the way home from work on the Monday lost all compression in one cylinder while on boost. sounds very familiar? well I dug down and investigated myself and discovered somehow the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 had lost all clearance and was being held open. I stripped the cams out and checked the shims and springs only to find nothing amiss. Tested clearances again and everything was good. so back together and keep driving, who knows what happened. I have been working on upgrading the brakes and managed to mix and match a combination that works well AE111 twin piston calipers ZZE122 275mm rotors (DBA 759S) ST215 caliper brackets DB1209 pads (DBA1209SS) or Winmax 224 if you want race spec pads you do need to remove the stock heat shield (mine are ae111) and make some spacers to push the rotors out from the hub about 2mm however they are much more substantial than the stock brakes. Ae111 calipers with machined down rotors zre122 rotors (the bigger option ones) and st185 calipers for test fit, they do work and retain the db308 pads, the st215 caliper bracket allows straight bolt in of the ae111 calipers, the st215 pistons would also bolt in. For your sanity, don't lose these little buggers. it took 3 months to get new ones out of Lithuania of all places. Out of stock, discontinued, wont sell separate so forth and so on anywhere else I tried I made these spacers out of 0.5mm alloy sheet, quick and easy with basic power tools and tin snips And for so long I thought it was my drive shafts binding or my LSD playing up when I was pushing it hard. perhaps I should have taken an extra 2mm off the rotors? This is the current arrangement of the garage, I have a new daily driver and will be putting club plates on the corolla. time for him to enjoy the easy life of a weekend driver out for a bit of fun. That's all for now. I have been working on other little bits but it's mostly maintenance. perhaps the next update will be in less than 2 years?

I saw a few ebay listings for rebuilt ones or swap a motor for a rebuilt one. Might be a go if the budget fits.

Mostly the townace and hilux. Check Wikipedia for other applications, that's all I'm doing "Toyota 3y engine". There's a few low emission versions but not likely to be here in Australia.

The townace van of same age range also had the y series engine. You could also look for a 3y which is the 2L version and should be a straight swap, I have not done much with these motors but if the other Toyota motors around that age are anything to go by a 3y would be a small bump in power and a straight swap

Umm... Judging by the hex shape around the base of the rubber boot I can't help but to think it is from the Inside of your spark plug socket there to help you get the spark plug out of the hole.

Ok because you asked I do actually have enough for an update. The Mighty corolla is still running fine. I did have a few nervous moments where I was convinced the head gasket was still playing up. Turns out it was a combination of the old radiator not able to keep up with hot weather and Melbourne traffic. I was getting temperatures over 110deg and climbing with the radiator fans running and once it cooled down at home the top tank would be empty. Well eventually I remembered I had this problem 10 years ago and the empty radiator was actually a split hose inside the overflow bottle. It could push water out but not suck it back in. So having fixed that I was finally happy that the motor is going to keep on living provided I could stop it over heating on anything over a 30deg day. So I tried adding more fans, ducting the air flow, adding water wetter (good stuff) but in the end I had to find a better radiator. I tried to purchase several different ones online but as it turns out all the listings on E bay regardless of seller or price ($120-$1,000) was actually the same radiator and there was only one in Australia which was sitting damaged in a warehouse. So I talked to the PWR guys who I got my water to air unit off and we designed a nice upgrade unit which is dual core and double pass, as well as being as thick as possible. Well it works a treat as the engine doesn't overheat even on a 45deg day in traffic (I suffered horribly but the car was fine) The funky pipe layout is needed for the double pass but does fit if you get rid of the overflow and are running a 20v head. I also gave the interior a good scrub and clean which is still looking good even after years of daily driving So once we are allowed out again I will be taking it on a bit of a road trip and finally sorting out the boost control. I have been tolerating boost spike and it tapering off for years because I never had enough traction for it to matter. Whats the point if you are just spinning the wheels to red line in third gear? But now that I have got traction control behaving and the LSD is playing ball with the Motul gear oil It is bugging me that I can't hold a solid 20psi. I also happened across a whiteline rear sway bar that will be going into to it just to help keep the rear settled on the road. It is pretty good as it is, and I do recall the factory sway bar is already an odd size as I had trouble finding bushings but we will see how it goes. The only other stuff I have done in the last year is give it a good claybar clean and polish which was in preparation for Sakura picnic which never happened, Hopefully next year.

I don't think the fuses will have minded too much with bit of water. See if they are blown which would suggest problems with the immobiliser. Is the immobiliser still trying to work out is there nothing when you try to use it? You could try bypassing it. That would involve following the wires from the immobiliser to the car wiring loom and joining the wires which have been cut and joined into the immobiliser wiring back together. Usually around the ignition barrel wiring. As for the rest of the electrics, you might have to leave it in the sun with the windows down to let it dry out. I have never pulled apart the fuse box before so don't know what could go wrong in it from water.

The clunk might have just been it firing once. Check for fuel and spark. If both are good then we can look at what next.

Ok.... Well first question, have you changed anything? What is different from last time it ran? It might be quickest to go back over what you have done and see if you made a mistake or disturbed something. Who knows how the wires have been joined. Second. What is it missing? Given you are playing with wiring it is probably electrical so let's check spark and fuel. Take the coil lead off the dizzy, position it so it's about 10-20mm away from a metal engine part then crank and check for a spark. Check the fuel pump is working by turning the key to ignition and opening the flap on the air flow meter. The relay next to the ecu should click and you should hear the pump run as well. As for the wiper, it could be unrelated. There is a control module in the tail gate which can play up if it gets wet which will keep it running. Let me know how you get on. If it ends up complicated you might need to get local help as problem solving without being able to stand in front of it to run tests really limits how much I can help.

No need to remove engine to remove wiring. It can be a bit difficult to get to some sensors and plugs on the engine but definitely possible.

Considering your wiring harness is the 20v one I would put it where it fits as it will not be quite the same. Normally the ecu sits 90deg clockwise with the plugs facing passenger side with the wires tucked up behind the heater box and through the fire wall. Tape them up tidy so they don't get damaged and hide them along the edge of the foot well under the carpet. If it all reaches I wouldn't worry about moving the ecu from where you have it.

Your car was carby so they may not Have put the mounts in. It sits so the wires face the passenger footwell at the very top of your picture. It sits ontop of the gear cables almost wedged under the foot air vents.

Don't stress it. Just identify one wire at a time. Label things, take pictures and buy a workshop book like a Haynes manual. The wiring diagrams are quite good. There are usually wires that are for optional items too so there will be ones not used. Just tidy them up to one side and don't worry about them. If you get stuck post back here and we can try to work it out.

That could make a bit of a difference. You might be better off keeping the 20v fuse box. It still depends on which fuse box is emptier ąnd how the wiring was done. Time to do some investigation and see what the story is.

It looks like the 20v fuse box is handling the main power and the alternator. I think I see the oil and water temperature or fan wires too. The 20v box should have a starter motor relay too which the 16v won't have as all the current for the starter solenoid went through the ignition switch. The ecu slides in from the passenger side and goes under the foot air vent sitting on the tunnel. If you have the brackets there are 2 studs it bolts onto. Try unplugging fuses, relays and plugs from each box and see what stops working. That's the easiest way to see where the wiring is at without opening up the loom to see what has been joined. If you need to look for joined wires It should mostly be sitting above the gear box as that's where the main Junction of wires meet from the motor, ecu and fuse box.

It's hard to pick from pictures alone but I get a feeling there is not much going on in the 20v box due to 3 main plugs missing. It might just be there as the person doing the install was not confident with removing it. You might need to find where they joined into the wiring from the 16v loom to the 20v one and see what has been done. Without cutting up the wiring loom you can try unplugging relays and fuses from the 20v box to get an idea of what is running off it. Are there any wires from the battery terminals to the 20v fuse box?

Off the top of my head it should be pretty easy to merge the 20v fuse box into the existing one. The majority of wires go through to the ecu and going from memory the alternator, starter, oil, water temp, rad fan trigger, ac, and I think a power wire go to or through the fuse box. The good thing is the wire colours are practically the same so with a bit of tracing and testing you can quickly figure them out. As for registering with an open air filter, I am not well versed but think the requirements are an enclosed filter. Just be aware that you do need to run the air flow meter with the factory ecu so unless you plan to swap to a black top ecu and wiring or an after market ecu then open throttles are off the cards.

I can't help with finding the wire but Most Toyota tachos from that era use a high level input. Thay means they need a voltage spike off the negative of a coil to work. I had a quick search and it seems the Holden motor is a high level signal too so you might just need a tacho from a 6 cylinder Toyota and to find the right wire in the Holden wiring loom, assuming you are not running after market ecu and wiring

I did this a few years back. You need to find the steering angle sensor and fit a normally closed push button in one of the wires. When you start the car and hold the button down for a few seconds the ecu sees it as a fault and disables vsc (you get warning light) until you turn the car off and back on again. Someone else might be able to confirm or tell you what colour the wires are.

Without knowing anymore information I think you need to check how you wired the relay. Sounds like you might have the relay constantly turned on and be powering the air horns with the factory horn wire. Was it the aftermarket fuse that blew or one in the fuse box?

You just have to make a start somewhere and work your way up as you learn more. I started with a Haynes manual and some basic tools learning every step of the way. On a side note I successfully imported this car into Australia and will be getting back into the car scene. It's been a long wait to get it back on the road so I intend to enjoy a few road trips and local events.

The slide resistors do work well. if I was to do it again I would try to track down 2 different value resistors as there is a few spots where the voltages are similar like neutral and 5th gear so you can get overlap if you rest your hand on the gear lever. Other than that it worked a treat. I also looked at Reed switches but they were rather fragile and a pain to set up you also couldn't calibrate them.

Ok , So I have had a very busy few months. First off the car is now running on E85 and I have rewired the engine bay to get rid of the mix and match wiring from the previous owners 16v to 20v conversion. I also took the time to add traction control and boost per gear using gear detection. I used to slide resistors hooked up to the gear cables to give a variable voltage to the ecu telling it which gear it's in. I also used an old Android phone and connected it to the ecu so I can have a custom dash display So this leads to dyno day. I really did want Lith to tune it but he is struggling to get access to a dyno in the wellington region and my usual guys were not comfortable doing a flex fuel tune so I ended up heading out to a local guy just out of town to have a chat and ended up booking it in. So I showed up bright and early we got the low boost tune on petrol nailed pretty quick but the high boost tune didn't want to know us. the car was so grumpy with it trying to knock it's self to pieces even with almost all the timing removed. We ended up tracking it back to most likely bad fuel as a flush out and things were much better. I cant say I have had that before but that seems to be the case this time. we then drained the tank again and fed it the good stuff and actually got it to start and idle first pop on e85. that was a very good guess on the crank enrichment tables. So carrying on and we got most of the low boost e85 tune done and I believe it was near 180kw on 12 psi but we started chasing our tails as it would be sweet one run and garbage the next. A bit of investigation proved my brand new fuel regulator had failed internally and was acting like a 5th injector under vacuum. So a quick visit to the shops and one brand new regulator and I have it running sweet. better than any previous tunes. with the old tunes I would still get the odd warning from the knock light but this is the first time it has completely behaved. It would almost seem I have no power gain over the old tune but it is making the same power on less boost and this is a different dyno so I got the emissions checked and another power run on the same dyno as previous runs and it is still on 240kw at the wheels but with more lower end torque and power The butt dyno is picking up that there is a bit more than before especially on low boost but the main reason for this tune up is for future proofing. the engine is plenty strong enough to make more power, it's the turbo running at the limit which is the limiting factor. Traction control and boost per gear has really helped to get it to the ground and unless I gain more traction I really cant use more power than its got now, I can leave 2 black lines in third gear if I lean on the loud pedal so that's kind of hinting its enough power. . Here's a picture of my new drive shafts as well. the MR2 ones were not the best fit and I killed a few CV's over the years so I decided to fix it properly. I also managed a small road trip of around 750ks before I packed the car into the container. The might corolla has definitely been a few places over the years and here we are ready to drop it off at the shipping terminal as the adventures will continue I might catch up with a few local toyota members around Melbourne, come and say hi if you spot my car it's not like there will be many like this around and I will try and get to a few car meets once it's on the road.

I think I may have had this problem before. Even changed the axles to have it return a few days later. Try cleaning the cv boots with brake cleaner then apply silicone spray to the outside. In my case it was the rubber boots rubbing and flexing against themselves. Give it a try as it's pretty much free to do. You can easily check if it's the wheel bearings by having it up on stands and spinning the wheels. If you hold the base the suspension spring sits on you can usually feel vibrations from the bearing if it's failing. You could also get a stethoscope or length of hose and listen to the gearbox while it's idling in gear on stands.