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Jim.

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Everything posted by Jim.

  1. My mechanic and I spent most of a day searching for the fault that stopped my 1993 5SFE Camry while it was running. We have proved the fuel pump is ok by powering it with jumper wires. I have checked all ECU voltages and they check out ok at the terminals. I ran the codes and they indicate no faults. I'm thinking of checking the crank sensor this morning and also changing the distributor. I have a spare re-built one in the car. Is there anyone who has experienced this cluster of symptoms and found a cause?
  2. I soon found that the ECU was not the same. We still have not found the fault with my car. I'll open a new thread, as this one has not attracted any replies.
  3. My 1993 camry 5SFE engine is stuck in town with a fuel supply problem. It started and ran fine, but shortly stopped and would not start again. I ran the OBD1 diagnostics and there are no indicated faults. We have tested the fuel pump by powering it up with jumper wires and it runs ok. However, the pump is not running when the ignition is turned on and the starter engaged briefly. We also tested the supply voltage on the pair of wires that power the pump which was ok, but it still will not run when the motor is cranked. I have yet to bridge terminals +B and FP in the diagnostics port to see if the pump will run with the ignition on. That is the first test I will do in the morning when I hitch hike into town again. I have not ruled out the possibility that rats have damaged some of the wiring. They eat the poison that I secrete in the engine bay from time to time, very quickly. One manual I am reading suggests that if the pump will still not run, replace the ECU. I do have a spar ECU out of an automatic Camry of the same vintage and same engine. Question: This vehicle has manual transmission. Is it likely that the ECU from an auto trans car will be compatible with this manual one? Edit: I have just watched a video that indicates that the circuit opening relay fault can cause these kind of problems. Arc damaged contact points. The video suggested repairing and modifying it by soldering an electrolytic capacitor across the contact points to (presumably) prevent or minimise further arcing.
  4. Thanks for that tip. I had not thought of that.
  5. I intend to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel in my camry 5SFE engine, in order to replace the rear main seal. I would like to find the dimensions of the alignment mandrel to re-fit the clutch in order to machine one up before commencing the job. Does anyone reading know these dimensions? Or can you direct me to a site which list them please? Jim.
  6. The alternator and engine mount torque rod has to be removed. It is not much of a problem and can be done quickly. Then use a small 10mm socket and drive to take off the cover. What was the stanley knife used for? I shudder to think!
  7. I suggest you confirm that a leak down test was done and ask for the results. How about a quick CO or hydrocarbon check of the cooling system? Has that been done? It is quick and easy to do yourself or to get the mechanic to do it if it has not already been done. Surely the cooling system would have self bled all air out after 3000 klms plus, wouldn't it?
  8. It is good to read that this mystery has been clarified. I've been waiting for a reply about it.
  9. Why put the balance shaft back in? I understand it can be left out as long as the oil supply gallery to it is blocked off. Is this true?
  10. What is FIPG please Trent?
  11. I think I would replace the water pump first. Even if the problem is not that, it is a good idea. Obviously the vehicle has done more than 100,000 klms. Good insurance, so to speak. I had a pump collapse on me once without warning. Meanwhile, another vehicle same make and model (5SFE) did the same while passing a big truck on the highway, around the same time.
  12. That is all good news Dave. I am interested in all the details of the struts that you obtained and fitted. Is the price above for each strut or a pair? The electric torque wrench also sounds interesting. Any links would be appreciated. All the best, Jim.
  13. I think I would block off the redundant vac line if only just to keep insects and dirt out. How do these throttle bodies fail?
  14. Thanks for the description of the "Fuel Pump Operation Check". I will have a look in my digital service manual. It consists of two CD's I bought online some years ago and so far has been very good. The indexing is a bit convoluted though and it can take some time to find what you want in it. Otherwise, I have not been able to fault it. edit: I just looked in my manual and there is no description of the above operation. To check the fuel pump pressure, it describes the fitting of a pressure guage by doubling up the banjo fitting on top of the fuel filter. I am surprised the retaining bolt will have enough thread to retain two banjo fittings, as depicted in the pictures. Hopefully, I will never have to use this. I have a spare fuel pump assembly in the shed anyway. Nice to have a couple of trunks full of spares for my old Camry!
  15. Dave, Good news. I does sound like you have a good grasp of the EFI system indeed. Keep us posted after you do some driving distance with the vehicle - we too would like to know if the problem has been eliminated. Laurie, I did not know about the fuel prime valve! I'm assuming it is a bleed valve, is that correct? Thanks for that, I'll have a look for mine this morning. Jim.
  16. The price is alright I guess. Are you going to go ahead and purchase them?
  17. Sorry to read the problem is recurring, even though that was likely to happen due to the original cause not yet being located. Like "Old Mechanic" says, the problem injector is more likely to break down when hot than when cold. If it is that of course; I still suspect one of them. What is done when this is suspected? Can they be heated and checked then? I don't know. Perhaps they are not expensive to replace?
  18. Do you know how to check the computer codes yourself? You don't need a code reader for this model. Simply jump two leads with a paper clip or wire in the analysing socket under the bonnet and count the engine light flashes after you turn on the ignition. Full instructions and codes can be found in the manual. Do you have access to one?
  19. Good, that is within specification as far as my information goes. It seems there are low impedance injectors (around 3 - 4 ohms) and high ones, in the range of your 12 ohm. So the search for the original fault goes on..............
  20. What was the resistance reading of each of the injectors?
  21. Ok, good you have the car back home Dave. Thanks for the update. I check the thread each day.
  22. "................................................. ......................................... I've been trying to work out a link between the original mechanic's thorough going over in the first place and the resultant trouble." Based upon what evidence? For all we know from the report, this mechanic did what was asked of him and did a full service of the car. I'm rather against that technique. Preventative maintenance I suppose. ................ 'If it's not broken don't fix it.' I've not been let down yet........................................ If we all followed this logic, cars, trucks and planes would be driven and flown until a fault developed. I would rather the airliner or glider that I'm flying in, or the car that I'm driving in this case, to checked over thoroughly periodically. Besides, the original servicing mechanic did not "fix" anything that did not need fixing. I've been thinking about this since you posted it, and could not let it go without some comment.
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