Lozz

G'day Mate, Ok I think I may have a solution for you or part there of 👍 Fundamentals of oil & temp: low temp = high oil viscosity / high temp = low oil viscosity!! Regardless of oil weight. Having said this multi-viscous oils resist this from happening to a certain extent. Hydrolic oil (like Auto Trans oil) is not multi-viscous! And is commonly single weight, that's why we have to replace the Auto oil to the manufactures specs as the transmissions are designed to operate on a particular grade/weight of oil. I believe your Auto Transmissions oil pump is faulty/worn out?? This can result from many things however the most common causes are: 1 - insufficient services. 2 - oil in pan has run low and the pump sucks air. 3 - excessive kilometres. In order to fix this you will have to remove your transmission from the vehicle, remove the torque converter then remove the bell-housing! This will enable you gain access to the oil pump of the transmission. I would recommend to find a suitable replacement pump from a used trans at a wreckers with low Km's, or ask your local Auto Trans guy to locate one for you, as they have really good contacts. You can replace the gears in the oil pump but you may still have a worn housing (sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't). These pumps are designed for the life of the trans, and a good second hand replacement pump as a complete unit is the way to go. Your choice?? Attached are a couple of photos of what the trans oil pump should look like....... Now I cannot guarentee what condition the clutch packs are like in your transmission though!! If you do go ahead and do this is is probably a good idea to install an external trans oil cooler too. That should solve the transmission problem but not the engine problem?? As to why your engine is loosing power is another thing all together! This could simply be a coincidence, and the resulting cause could be you injector pump is on its way out, but I dought that!! I really think the only way to find a solution is to tackle 1 thing at a time, and start with the trans oil pump, then move to the next. If you really love your truck and want to keep it, that's what I would do. Or the other way is to replace the trans as a complete assembly?? Your decision again though. I really hope this sheds some light on your situation mate?? 😜👍🍻

G'day Herbert, Does your 92 run a A43D auto?? There could be many possibilities that could be at fault mate, unfortunately is not an easy find unless you stumble across it!! As was advised earlier, the Trans service is a really good start, but I don't think it will rectify the issue, however does need to be done. This Auto is primarily hydraulicly actuated, meaning the first 3 forward are selcted by hydraulic pressure and the 4th is electronically selected via a solenoid in the valve body A couple of questions though: When you select R or D does it drop in gear straight away with a thump or is it slow and sloppy? It also seems, from your description it only plays up when you have reached operating temperature?? Does your engine still have power at operating temperature? Or is it a situation where the transmission has lost power at the rear wheels (like its slipping) but you still have full engine revs and or power??

G'day Andrew, I've had experiences with this issue happening in other vehicles however not Toyota's? I repair a vast array of different vehicles in my workshop, and 9/10 times when this happens it is a high probability that the sender unit in the fuel tank is faulty! This unit works on resistance of current to the guage from the sender to indicate the tank Level. The normal setup is minimal resistance = high level, and maximum resistance = low level. How this works is a wiper assembly rubbing on a coil of copper (predominantly), where the coil is the resistance and the wiper is the float level indicator. Basically the wiper wears out!! Hopefully this helps you mate

Gday Jinze, Maybe you should refer to your operators manual located in the glove box D = Drive / S = Sports. When "D" is selected the transmission is in Automatic mode, and will select the required forward gears it requires automatically. When "S" is selected the transmission is in Semi-Automatic mode, and will only use the forward gear you select for it!! In other words, it's like a Manual transmission without having to use a clutch. Hope this helps you mate!!

Gday Tim, how ya goin mate? Toyota recommend 5w - 30 for your engine. Pretty much the same recommendation for mine. I have attached a pic of the Nulon oil container for you too!! 👍 Have a good one mate 😄😜🍻

No probs! Have fun with it.

Gday Deano, It certainly looks like it!! I honestly can't guarentee it will fit just by the pictures mate!! But I can certainly let you know, if you can supply me with some measurements and dimentions?? Bearing O/D? Total outer width? Total overall diameter? Etc........ Not forgetting spline measurement too (Rarely a problem with Toyota's but you never know)??

Gday All, just thought I might share that I recently purchased a Stage 1 Nomad Valve body from Wholesale Automatics in Vic (Bayswater). Well........... Let's just say "you know it's in gear"!!!!!!!! It now thumps in gear, there is no soft change with these babies. At least I know it's waayyyy better for the clutch packs, and won't wear out any time soon!! I have attached some pics for you to view too (hopefully they upload) The change over amount was about $1150.00, so certainly nothing to Bork at, but after driving it for about 1000ks now, I really think it's worth the money. At a later date I'm going to purchase the Manual over-ride tourqe converter "lock-up" switch too. If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to ask!! 😜😄🍻

G'day Cookie, Good on ya mate!! Yeh you soon figure it out when you have a look inside. It's just if there was an easier way, like not having to go to the effort to strip it down, but I guess that's Murphy's law hey! Have a good one!

G'day Cookie, I have an 09 TRD, pretty much the same as yours. The set up in all hilux's are pretty well the same, there are gear levers that catch on a spiral (which is on a thread) and turns the spiral knob (if it needs to) every time you pull on the handbrake lever, you will see how this works inside the rear drum assembly. So all rear shoes are self adjusted. However mud and other debre can obstruct and prevent this from happening, particularly in the thread itself, this can make it jam or seize, so a really good suggestion is to remove your rear drums and clean everything out. Also you shouldn't have to worry about aspestous as the aspestous compound was eliminated in the manufacture of Autralian brake shoes about 15 - 20 years ago (it is now illegal to manufacture brake shoes / pads containing aspestous in Ausralia, that's why Great Wall's were recalled a couple of years ago). The adjustment for the handbrake cable is on the handbrake lever itself in the cab, 2 x 10mm nuts on a thread about 50mm long. To gain access to the adjuster, directly under the lever you will find a plastic cover, remove this (just pull it up and out) and you will find the adjusting thread. And yes the correct adjustment is approx 3 - 4 clicks. Hope this helps Cheers Loz

G'day Mate, You probably won't have any problems running higher viscosity oils until you hit around 100,000ks. I most certainly would not recommend running higher viscous oils in this engine! Recomended is 5w-30, however I run Nulon 10w-30 full synthetic in mine. These engines have extreamly tight tolerances and higher viscous oils are too thick to get where they are need to go. Also from my previous experience and knowledge of these newer engines, running higher viscous oils robs HP quite dramatically too, which Inturn robs fuel economy etc........ Stick with recommended viscosity or as close near it mate Cheers Loz 🍻

G'day, I have a 2009 TRD Hilux from the showroom floor and love it! I am new to the forum world and have no idea what I'm doing lol?? Just sayin G'day to all as a new user and would like to make some new friends too, cheers 😜👍🍻