chrislb

check the fork and slave cylinder, you can get longer pins that push the fork in

fit what? I assume they fit the models they are are advertised suitable for, anything else, no they won't. If they fitted other models they'd mention them

I would take the car to an alarm installer or auto electrician and ask them. I don't believe that about the ecu(computer thing). I know from experience that some keys need only to be near the chip in the steering column, to deactivate the immobilser, there is another chip inside the key, Unscrew the screws in the key and it will open up you can see what's inside. The actual metal key just unlocks the steering lock in older cars and engages the starter. (New cars use a start button) If the old key worked the central locking and the new Toyota dealer key does not that means they haven't coded the key properly. Get an expert second opinion, if they agree Toyota messed up I would try to sort things out with them. If you have another original key see if it operates the central locking. My Corolla sportivo has an alarm fitted to it, so to lock and unlock the car, I can just use the alarm button fob on the keyring

Ask on Corolla Sportivo facebook pages, plenty of guys parting out cars

CHEERS THANKS FOR YOUR COMMENTS😀

Yes an unusual situation. I torqued the bolts to spec, it was probably my fault, I refurbished the brakes about 2 years ago. The drivers side calipers, it's not easy getting a torque wrench in there to fit, I may have only hand tightened the bolts with a spanner. The car now is so quiet amazing its got all new whiteline suspension bushings and new springs and struts, drives like new car with a great engine (2zz - ge) How I thought there was nothing wrong is amazing to me now. The difference between a mechanic with experience working on many different cars and situations, and a DIYer who lives in a bubble of the car or cars they own. I'm sure an experienced mechanic would have recognised there was a problem straight away.

I finally fixed a frustrating issue with my 2003 Corolla Sportivo. After looking at all the suspension components including the replacing of lower control arm, sway-bar, and S/B link bushings and checking nuts and bolts for tightness and rebuilding the struts I was able to trouble shoot a ongoing noise issue I could not resolve. When going over cement or choppy road surfaces there would be a noise from the right front of the car. Something loose, for a while I convinced myself it was the tyres making the sound. The car had no steering vibration or brake vibration. On asphalt no noise! One day going over the same cement road I needed to apply brakes and the noise DISAPPEARED! I did some more testing by left foot braking while using the accelerator, indeed the noise stopped and returned after lifting off the brakes, so I narrowed it down to the braking system. One YouTube video showed how the disc can make a noise when the studs bang against the holes in the rotor hub. But that could not be the cause. Rattles can come from brake pads, so I cleaned and re-greased the backs of the pads in case it was that. I also shook the whole assembly when it was all back together. Nothing a first but then suddenly I heard the EXACT SAME NOISE that had been plaguing me for months. Turns out the 17mm bolts that hold the brake caliper assembly to the bracket had worked themselves loose. (Just enough not dangerous) I lock tighted them back in place and no more noise, hard to diagnose for a non mechanic so it may be useful information for other DIYers, could save you hours of frustration. I think giving stuff on your car a good shake is a great old school way to pick up issues early Hope this helps others👌

Im glad you found something no heel pad though which I like.

You can get new from Japan Yahoo auctions, won't say sportivo. y