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Tony Prodigy

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Everything posted by Tony Prodigy

  1. It just keeps getting better. I was watching this video from Peter Anderson's channel and he has the same car you do and he also talks about the clock situation. Very knowledgeable fella too. Go to 17:15 on the video and go from there. After that, go to 23:13 where he goes to a wrecker and actually finds the digital clock from a Levin.
  2. I just learned that the "Levin" model of Corolla has the digital clock as standard, so if you want one, you'll have to include "Levin" in your search. The clock is part of the demister/ A/C buttons. It's one piece, so you don't just buy the clock, you get the clock/demister/AC as one kit. Also looks like that white plug will power up the clock whilst giving power to the A/C controls. Watch the second part of the second part of the video below.
  3. There doesn't appear to be any plug present to the area where that shiny black window is situated am I right ? If not, then I would assume this would normally be where they intended for a clock to be, but not installed on certain models. In the U.S, they have a clock there and its digits are red. During the course of my research, I did however come across only one picture with what does look like digits, but are greenish in colour and could be an Australian model from the AE112 range. It was a small JPEG so I had to take a photo with my phone in order to enhance it a bit. See what you reckon. So my guess is, yes, that shiny window is for a clock, but only installed on certain vehicles with certain head units. As your head unit already has a clock in it, they safely assumed this would suffice and most likely install a dummy clock face to fill the space in the fascia, which is common to all AE112 Corollas. Then this begs the next question. If it does have a clock which lights up, how on earth would one set the time ?? I have to say, this is one of the most bizarre things I've come across on a humble old Corolla. If you are able to find an owners handbook, it may reference something on it.
  4. The Camry looks to be similar to the Aurion, but that rear section differs in that the Aurion has air vents for the dual stage climate control in it. I would imagine the same could apply to removing that rear console trim piece. Instead of digging a screw driver into the side, I'd try yanking it out from the centre of the bottom first as the piece will need to come out straight. Note the four plastic push-in tabs. Invest in the proper trim removal tools too. Don't use metal screwdrivers as they will damage the edges and will look like crap. When I'm home later, I'll take a closer look at mine for you.
  5. I suspect the clock would have been designated in the radio rather than an in dash set up. If there was an in dash clock, then it would have the adjuster buttons to go with it. If it has the factory radio, then the clock should be there. Are you able to post up a picture of your dash cluster so we can see what you're referring to ?
  6. The Chinese car makers are really taking the p-i-s-s. We should remember that everything we buy from there directly empowers the criminal CCP so we should think twice about supporting a country that not only has an appalling humans rights record but hurts other economies with trade sanctions and debt traps, ie, belt and road scam.
  7. Haha, nice one mate. I dig wagons. Very practical and roomy with the added bonus it being a reliable, economical Toyota that you can shoe horn into any parking space. Look forward to the updates
  8. I agree. There are some who could care less and do a bodge job rather than take the time and seek out the correct solution. I remember in the bad old days, those aftermarket pop up sunroofs (yuk. I always hated those.), and the amount of cars you come across that had the outer ring smeared in silicon, made me laugh every time. If you had to have a sunroof, nothing beat a factory sunroof, even though they too had their fair share of issues. But the lesser of the two evils for sure. It's a good thing the O.P wants to do this properly. It would bug me not having it right too.
  9. The sooner everyone realises NOT to buy cars made in china, the better. When something is too cheap, it's cheap for a good reason. Chinese made cars are at the top of the poop pile and that experience you highlighted Ashley is more proof why people should stay away from these piles of crap. If you don't have the budget of a new car, go purchase a well maintained low mileage Toyota. That car will last you till the end of time and be cheap and easy to maintain too. It doesn't surprise me either that Mazda are trying to engage in unconscionable behaviour. It seems to be the norm these days, but thankfully Toyota always seem to maintain their integrity way better than most. For the amount of money these dodgy car companies waste on legal battles, wouldn't it be simpler and cheaper just to do the right thing by the customer in the first place ?? Now they have blackened their face and put their reputation on notice. I wouldn't buy a Mazda now based on what I've just heard. Utterly disgraceful.
  10. Fantastic stuff Jack. It's always mice to get closure. If the colour mismatch bugs you, you can always have them vinyl painted to match the rest of the interior. Cheers mate
  11. Sounds like it could be an intermittent issue with any one of your coils. Are they still original by any chance ?
  12. Dealerships don't set out to rip anyone off. The pricing is set to reflect the supply and demand. Some parts are expensive and some aren't. If you want Genuine parts, sometimes it's the price we have to pay otherwise try looking for a second hand item or after market, if you can get them.
  13. I meant that as a temporary solution to close the opening whilst he's out looking for a cover, not a permanent solution.
  14. Welcome aboard Jay. You can't go wrong with any Toyota, especially the popular Corolla. Happy motoring mate
  15. You can just use some duct tape in the meantime.
  16. In that case then, I'd try and remove as much of the proofing, treat it with a rust converter product and then re apply a good underbody sealant. If you visit an automotive paint and panel beating supply shop near you, they will be able to guide you on what you need. Alternatively, you may have the procdure done at a panel shop if you're not in a position to tackle it yourself. The resale value of your car will depend on this. Don't let it go for too long because it will get worse.
  17. No. We're both in N.S.W. You can do a local search of "Car Audio Shop" and see what pops up. I'm certain you will find plenty over there.
  18. I'm not too sure on the 40 series head unit, but there are others who have upgraded theirs who may chime in and share some information. Alternatively, you can search up aftermarket head units for "Aurion" on Ebay and this will give you an idea the size and specs. The aftermarket will be android based so it will be more user friendly than the rubbish Toyota put in their cars. I don't have sat nav in my Prodigy and don't care about not having one either. I just use my phone with Google Maps. Google Maps is supremely good.
  19. Haha, that's code for, "I've driven it into the sea". Driving on the sand a "couple of times" shouldn't contribute to rusting of the underside. I'd say he's more than likely driven it on the shoreline and the sea water got in under it and he never bothered to wash it off when he got home. Salt water corrodes pretty quickly if you don't neutralize it. If you're able to get it high enough, give it a thorough pressure washer with some PH neutral car wash soap and it should be ok. If you're inclined after this, you can give it scrub on the more stubborn areas and spray it with some satin black rust paint. Upload some photos if you can.
  20. Wow, that is pretty sludgy. You have the best opportunity to de sludge it while it's all open. Pour diesel all over it and brush the heck out of everything and then flush it several times over with fresh diesel. Collect the crud with a drain pan of course. Then once it's all buttoned back up, you'll still need to perform a few more de sludging treatments with regular, and I mean, Regular oil changes. You should never let the oil go past 10K. 8k tops and 5K for best results. Oil is cheap, but long term engine damage is not. JUst wondering though. How did it run before you pulled it apart ? Any smoke ??
  21. I would consult the owner's manual and see the official list of recommendations by the manufacturer. It may just well be 0W-20 or 5W-30. Is there any marking on the oil filler cap ?
  22. Have a read of the thread below. Although the pictures posted in the thread are not actual "Tow Points", but more the TIE DOWN points for when the car is shipped from Japan.... you can use these as a last resort. I don't recall that Gen of RAV 4 ever having official tow points. I could be wrong. (Check your owner's manual). I owned a 95 model, which is practically the same and I honestly don't remember seeing any provision to scre a tow hook in. The front bumper is a complete moulded affair with no pop off caps. The modern incarnation of RAV 4's do, and I believe the tow points are located behind the front bumper on the passenger side. You can tell by a small plastic pop off plate, which reveals the thread location for the tow hook. Hope this helps. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/171378-is-this-where-you-attach-a-tow-rope-on-a-rav-4-to-tow-a-vehicle/
  23. Welcome aboard Paul. I don't have much experience with 4WD vehicles but I did own a Pajero briefly back in '95. It was ok. Just a big heavy lug of a vehicle. I ended up with a RAV4 Cruiser a year later and surprisingly, ended up owning it for 10 years. Not a proper 4WD, but it was a damn good vehicle and super reliable. A BMW M3 replaced it (still have it), and I also have a 2012 Aurion (family car). 4WD vehicles are great, if you plan to use it for the purpose it was designed. I don't see the need for one to simply putt putt around town with to be totally honest. Too much bulk to move around. We look forward to seeing your new car when you take ownership. I hope it is all you want it to be and more. Post up some pics when you do. All the best mate
  24. No. The gasket material will do the job of sealing all by itself. The only bit of sealant you'll need is at the junction where the timing cover mates to the cylinder head. No where else. Make sure you clean the mating surfaces on both sections with brake cleaner or general purpose thinner. Do both, the groove in the rocker cover and the flat surface of the cylinder head. Follow all these instructions and you'll have done a meticulous job. If your not sure about where to put the blob of RTF gasket goo, watch THIS video and go to 7:30 for that info. Cheers mate
  25. Sorry to hear that mate. My Colorado was in my driveway at the time of that hail storm and although the left side of the car was protected mostly by the house wall and roof eave, I did spot one small ding on top of the passenger door and nowhere else despite the stones being quite large. It somehow survived ok. I'd definitely look into the PDR treatment. Do you have insurance ? They could offer to have the car PDR'd rather than have it sit in a panel shop and get a mismatched paint job. That colour looks like a hard colour to paint match too, being a kind of silver metallic. Hope it works out ok for you mate.

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