Tony Prodigy

Thanks for that but it appears that the listing is for a singular plug ?? How did you get a 4 pack ?? The quantity to add to cart only allows a max of 5 pieces. Huh ??

You definitely need a short socketed, swivelly tool for that dreaded bolt. If you recall my transmission service thread, this is what I used. I also have these for any other eventualities. Beaut little things. 1/4 Drive METRIC 3/8 Drive Metric Set 1/4 Drive Imperial

I've lost count how many of those comfort connect cables I have. I love the C-Tek accessories.

Yeah, you can use whatever your budget allows. If you're rich, then just use 98.

Be careful on Amazon because there are plenty of counterfeit so called "Genuine" parts. I'll wait for your link anyway and take a look. Cheers mate

Has the cooling system been worked on recently ?? It could be what the others have said. Not sure if trapped air could be one as the engine may overheat if not bled properly, so my theory would be coolant pushing through the radiator cap into the coolant bottle. You can observe this yourself. It's not uncommon for the rad cap to weaken over time. I've replaced mine already just as a a preventative measure and also keep another new Genuine Toyota one as a spare. Be sure to get the correct pressure rating for your vehicle. Specify your VIN too if you have too. If it doesn't overheat or leak, then I wouldn't worry about it.

I don't see the need for so many speeds. I think it's stupid. The 6 speed auto in my Aurion is absolutely perfect 👌

Sorry to hear about the mishap. Hope they do a good job for you mate. Not having the Aurion and having to drive a sub standard car in the interim makes us appreciate what we have. I believe you when you say the CX-3 is shiit. There are many like it too. I'll stick to my Aurion thank you very much. Where are you getting all this for under $115 ?? Can you link us ?

I think you're being a bit pedantic my friend. At some point, parts will require replacement. Sometimes sooner than later. it's just luck of the draw. All those bits you mentioned are pretty much service items anyway and you don't have to have it done at Toyota and pay extortionate prices either. If you are handy and have some tools, a DIY approach can save you plenty $$$. Youtube is your best friend too. I always watch a few videos before carrying out work on my own vehicles. I won't pay for it when I can do it myself. The transmission could be due for a service if it's slipping. Have you checked underneath to see if it's leaking ? It's probably low on fluid or it's probably been abused prior to your tenure. The fluid could be burnt. This can explain your poor mileage. Expect around 10-12 lt per 100 kays around town anyway. That's still ok in my book. If your doing 15 per 100, then that's not right. The Misfire could be a dodgy coil. Have them inspect each one for cracks. It's possible one or more could be cheap Chinese crap. If it has a small crack in the side, it will ground to the engine causing the misfire. I also like to smear a little dielectric grease on all electrical components for better conductivity and prevention of corrosion. That's just me... I'm fussy. If you can't afford the new Genuine parts, you can always source good second hand parts from a wrecker. Get parts from a low mileage vehicle. This is an option if money is tight. If you can't DIY, then try find yourself a competent mechanic and try and source Genuine parts online. I always scour the internet sites and purchase Genuine Original Toyota parts way cheaper than the Stealership. I'm sure you'll get it sorted soon. Believe me, our Aurions are way better cars than the junk they're churning out now. I plan to keep mine forever. All the best and take it easy

Short drives are something most of us can't avoid unfortunately, unless one plans a day out weekly and hit the highway.

Is that the normal charge rate ? I would've thought it would be at around 14ish volts. If I remember, I'll measure mine just to compare. I still have the original alternator. That's a decent unit. I'd definitely recommend the recondition feature. It will transform it completely. After you've done a round on that, then switch it over to trickle charge.

Campbeam (Ashley) has been down this road. I'm sure he'll chime in sooner or later. This thread may help

Refresh my memory. What are the issues you've had ? Not sure if having issues would prevent me from buying another Toyota. Sometimes issues can exist as a result of someone's misuse, neglect or in rare cases factory defects. I'm not saying you've neglected or abused yours, just generally speaking. Sometimes there can exist lemon cars and these can be found across the range of makes. Toyota just happens to be in the least percentage. You should sell that one you have and get yourself a 50 series. You will not regret it my friend. Toyota did a massive upgrade in the 50 series over and above what the 40 was. No disrespect to those who own a 40 series either. They were a fantastic vehicle when they came out and we just weren't to know of the issues until the service bulletins came out. Understandably, in any debut model, there will be teething issues that are usually corrected and improved upon in the subsequent generation of cars. Some cars just seem to slip through the cracks unfortunately. However, none that cannot be corrected. You can have a reliable 40 series too. It's such a damn shame they stopped making the Aurion. I would've loved to have seen a 70 series Aurion (Not Camry).

Was this after a recharge or a jump start and subsequent drive ? Have you checked the charging volts with the engine running Ash ? Do you still have the original alternator in it ? I think this will serve you well. Less stress on it during start up. Your climate up there is also pretty forgiving too. You winter cold start ups are akin to a spring morning in Sydney. I reckon it will come good. Can't remember which C-Tek you have, but if it has the "recondition" feature, this will help desulphate the battery for better longevity. Sulphation is the biggest cause of battery degradation and failure and it can't hurt to attach a C-Tek Comfort connect to you battery and give it a trickle charge for those periods when you don't use the vehicle all that much.

Flat batteries are a pain. They get you out of nowhere sometimes. I ended up purchasing a battery booster device too, and what a great thing it's been. It's saved me several times trying to start various machines that have sat around. It seems the general lifespan for your typical battery is around 5 years or so these days. The 55D23L with 540CC is plenty enough I reckon. My car starts effortlessly, so I really can't justify a higher CC battery to be honest. I did end up swapping out the leaky post battery with that spare new one I purchased last November. It kept playing on my mind, especially when you see the powdery residue trying to eat the battery terminal clamp. I have since retired it to the garage where it sits on a trolley with 4 other batteries doing time on individual C-Tek chargers. I keep them trickle charged for best health. Pictured here are 4, but have added another since, so 5.

Hey Steve, you may just be experiencing wear and tear related changes, plus if you deviate from the factory OEM tyres you may have a set with a higher rolling resistance. I'm certain the original tyres were an economy based tyre with a lower rolling resistance. Probably handle like crap, but the trade off would be the better economy.

Yeah, it is a bit much. You really need to do the checks we've all been saying to ascertain the engine health. A compression test would be at the top of my list.

Howdy Chaps. I've been considering getting something more compact and so this one came about on special from SCA. I still have my original Mig O Mag 220 from back in the early 90's which has been in storage for the last 24 years. That gave me several years of great service and want to give it a going over before putting back in to service as it's been a while since firing it up. It has been stored well so I don't anticipate any real issues. The inner torch liner may need replacing as the welding wire used to snag and birds nest inside at the roller, but apart from that it was an amazing machine. This little CIG 130 has many good reviews and hopefully should be a great addition to my tool family. When I need to do those odd little weld jobs, I don't really want to have to bring out the behemoth just to do 5 minutes work. This is where this little guy comes in. Also, going to keep it a gasless Mig too for ease of use and no bottles to deal with. I have also purchased gasless wire as you will see in the pics. Here's my original Mig Welder The New CIG 130

It will be fine. Just keep the oil topped up mate.

I assumed PCV was already checked and discounted.

It's worth every cent if it means less work. That's a hell of a job just to change a water pump. Toyota did us no favours when they designed the 5VZ that's for certain. Imagine if it was a transversely mounted engine ! Engine out job for sure. They needed to come up with a radical new design and I reckon that's what spawned the 2GR-FE.

Don't feel to bad mate. It can happen to anyone. That's why the factory put fuses in so it can live to fight another day. I had a feeling you zapped the main fuse reading from the start. It's a big whack to the system shorting the mains out. Could've been worse.. Keep your chin up man. Glad it all worked out ok.

It's not ideal, but one can live with it if you keep adding oil. If the engine is worn, ie, piston rings etc then it's probably time for a full rebuild or replacement. There is the potential for it to be stuck rings as previously mentioned due to sludge and carbon deposits. Before your next oil change, add a bottle of engine flush to it, top up the oil to full and let it run for around 10-15 minutes, then do an oil change. I'm guessing your mechanic will be doing it unless you're in a position to do it yourself. Read the instruction on the bottle. Each manufacturer will have their own specific directions for use. There is plenty of info online on how to de sludge and engine. Some of us here have been down that road already and have flushed their engines with a mix of diesel fuel in the oil. You may need to repeat the cycle a few times and see if there's an appreciable difference. It's hard to make a definitive conclusion as I have no idea the condition of your engine, mileage or service history, but it seems like it's gummed up in there. That would be the cheapest way to start with. No point spending money on major a mechanical overhaul if it's too far gone. It's entirely up to you. Baby steps first.

Not really, no. It just means that you just get oil seepage down the valve stem which enters the combustion chamber. Smoke on start up is the usual result as it burns this away. Blow-by is cylinder pressure that leaks past the piston rings into the crankcase. Commonly, it starts as cylinder glazing or carbon forming in the top ring grooves, both of which allow cylinder leak down, and some oil burning. Oil burning produces further ring deposits, and more blow-by. You can usually tell if your engine suffers from blow by. Just remove the oil fill cap whilst the engine is running and if air pressure comes out of the rocker cover then that'll be blow by. This is why I mentioned "Engine Flush" in your next oil change. It will try to clean the gummed up carbon deposits and any potential sludge. I'd not let it get too low. Just check it daily and adjust as required. A full dip stick is always desirable to maintain proper lubrication and reduce heat of friction.

Hey Rob, I really dig how you love birds are still so romantic. I lost mojo ages ago. Not sure what happened, but having a child and running a house etc killed the romance for me. I envy you guys. To the Aurion. It's the stop/start idling time that kills the economy. Once you're away and maintain a steady flow, the engine really comes into it's own. Long highway runs are ideal and if you pot around town and are lucky to get all the green lights, you can still salvage a decent economy number. On the rare occasion that I drive our Aurion, I try to challenge myself each time to see how good I can get it, despite it being around town.