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Tony Prodigy

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Everything posted by Tony Prodigy

  1. You run the risk of warping the rotor by over tightening. Have you ever heard a squeak coming from a wheel that's been over tightened ? It's not good for the rotor or the wheel studs. Torquing wheel nuts to correct spec is the best way to do this.
  2. Hey Suzy. Not sure where you'd be able to find a compressor, but I would start with asking a local mechanic who deals with A/C. I'm pretty sure your car has had the retro fit done at some point in it's life and it is also possible the compressor may not be the original either. The mechanic will need to look at the compressor nameplate and cross reference one for you. It is possible a later gen compressor may fit. Originally the Aircon systems ran on R12 refrigerant and then in 1992 it was mandated world wide for the switch to R134a because it had zero ozone depletion potential, so cars after 1994 had R134a and all pre 1994 cars either had the retro fit done or they went without air conditioning if the system happened to fail. Remember when they discovered the hole on our Ozone layer ?? That was the start of this radical overhaul in which refrigerants were being used. It also crossed over into the HVAC industry. R12 had an Ozone depletion potential of 1.0, which was pretty substantial in the scheme of things. Imagine the many millions of cars around the world with this stuff in them and at some point in their life would've been vented to atmosphere. Not good for the environment. I'm sure you should be able to get another compressor or they may even be able to recondition the existing one. The latter may be a stretch as we have become a throw away society and the art of fixing things is slowly disappearing unfortunately, but it's worth asking. Let us know how you go. Cheers
  3. G'Day Kevin and welcome aboard mate. Congrats on the new car too. Wise choice of cars and place of employment. Are you in sales or parts depts ??
  4. There are two idler pullies as per the diagram. I haven't had to do mine, but I suspect the Idler pullies are the same. Tensioner pulley differ to the idler pulley. I would've just done the whole lot while you were in there. Doesn't make sense changing one and not the other. Here's a kit you can buy https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GATES-DRIVE-Belt-PULLEY-FOR-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-2006-2012-2GR-FE-3-5L-DOHC/302481777048?hash=item466d51a198:g:8aoAAOSwwPtcdmH5 1 - crankshaft 2 - tensioner pulley, 3 - water pump, 4 - idler pulley (opt.), 5 - power steering pump (opt.), 6 - the idler pulley, 7 - alternator, 8 - compressor.
  5. Oils aint oils anymore that's for sure. Back in the earlier days the oil was rubbish to be quite brutal. That's why engines didn't last that long using dinosaur mineral oil. New oil technology is amazing and it's not only designed to lubricate, but to clean at the same time too. Admittedly, if you live in a very low temperature region where you have ice and snow, then 20w - 50 is stupid. It most certainly will need to be a 0W weight so the oil can be as thin as possible under those climatic conditions. As we live live in a very temperate climate, just put the oil that it states on the oil cap and that's it. If it says 5W-30, then put 5W-30. If it says 0W-20, then it's 0W-20. Change the oil regularly and your engine will live a long and happy life, so will your wallet 😁
  6. Thanks for posting the photos. I had a feeling there might be some rubbing because those wheel/tyre combos look huge for that car. More suited to the larger bodied XU40 rather than the 20 I think. They really fill those guards that's for sure.
  7. Great to hear you got it sorted Mario. Don't feel embarrassed either. It's all a part of learning mate. It's much harder trying to diagnose these things via the internet I must say, but given you had given it some time figure it through means someone else here can benefit from your situation. A decent scan tool is a must today as all our modern cars are computer driven to the hilt and you will need one sooner or later, so it's never a waste of money. Thank you for the update. Happy motoring
  8. Hi Dylan, Is it possible you've installed the incorrect rated fuse for the intended slot and it's popped ? Not doubting your ability here, but it can happen and you need to rule all possibilities out. Also, how did you check the fuses ? Electrically or physically ? I'd test each new fuse with a multimeter (use continuity test or Ohms) and see if it has a path before installing it. Also check your contacts for corrosion or dirt. Never know here either. I can't see how changing out some fuses renders your car inoperable all of a sudden. it must be one massive coincidence or it's definitely some dodgy fuses. I would've just left the good ones and replaced the faulty ones. They may look a little discoloured but will function just fine. Just keep a spare stash in the glovebox for when you really need them. Hope that helps.
  9. As my owners manual states 6.1LT, I could also assume that this is for a dry engine because all the oil/filter changes I've done, I've basically just filled it each time with the full 6LT and the dipstick goes up a little past the uppermost dimple on the stick. One needs to ensure the car is also as level as practically possible too.
  10. Give them hell Julie. We're with you on this one
  11. Do the front tyres rub the inners when fully locked ?
  12. I won't discourage you from replacing the head unit. If this suits you then by all means go for it. I understand what you mean with the phone holder, which is why I have mine mounted to the right lower corner on the windscreen. Your view is unobstructed, and always in your periphery so you don't really need to look across and down like you would with the head unit. Your eyesight is always up as if you glance at your gauge cluster. I've never had an issue and will continue to use Google Maps. The latest incarnation of google maps always gives you the fastest routes and with live traffic updates, it's a motorist's dream in an ever increasingly crazy place like Sydney.
  13. I totally agree. Once you start fiddling with too many things, you can induce more issues going forward. Sometimes the long way around is better and the challenge is more fun I reckon.
  14. Tony Prodigy

    Rav4

    Short answer, I would say yes, but you have to consider offset and clearance for lock to lock turning. The wider you go, it may rub the inners when steering full lock. Toyota design their wheel tyre combos for a reason and deviating from this can cause issues. It may be possible to go one up in size but Kluger wheel/tyre assemblies are quite hefty being 245/65/R17 and so not sure if this will work. Something to keep in mind. Hopefully someone here who has attempted this here can chime in, but that's my 2 cents worth.
  15. The idea of having to pay for map updates is ludicrous to begin with. I think any car that has a factory fitted GPS should get free map updates for the life of the vehicle. The time for gouging the customer should've ended a long time ago, which is why I'm not even remotely interested in factory GPS head units. Google maps is superior to anything I've seen or used and will continue using this free service. I don't get why people feel the need to upgrade their head units other than to upgrade the stereo quality and connectivity. The rest of it seems like one big extra distraction for roads that are already filled with selfish distracted morons who cause road accidents and fatalities as a result. Sorry. My rant for the day. I wish you all safe travels.
  16. That's good value. So is the discount coupon on top of the already discounted price then ? So it will be $53.10 for the jack ? I wish they could could a proper deal on the 3T variant or even an aluminium jack. I don't need another back breaker of a jack.
  17. Is it made of Gold ?? I cannot see why it would cost that much. I would put money on it that some wreckers throw these out and never bother to remove them so I'd check with a local wrecker and see how much you can get it for. It shouldn't be too difficult to figure out how to install it if you the inclination to do it yourself.
  18. I have read that the electronic brake system may have something to do with this. Apparently, the brake light circuit is wired into the skid control ECU, and If you have a wiring fault in the trailer or the trailer plug, it might be feeding back into the ECU. Try taking the trailer for a run on a quite road with the plug out, if you don't get the issue then the problem is going to be in the trailer wiring.
  19. As far as I know, it should be a plug and play affair for these.
  20. I'd try the controls first and see if this fixes it before shelling out more money for something you may not need. Or if you're like me, I'd buy the amplifier too and keep it as a spare if you plan to keep the car a long time. I have a small hoard of spare parts for my 50 series already and I keep adding to the pile as I go. Doesn't hurt to have spare parts on hand when you need them in a hurry.
  21. It's coming along really nice mate. I remember these Celicas when they came out. They looked very cool back then and still do. Nice work man.
  22. Definitely option B here. My thoughts immediately went to installing a piece of rope or strap that you could grab onto and be able to yank the lid down. Do it safely of course.
  23. My Heart tells me to go for the newer, lower kay vehicle. But it's catch 22 with these two. The AWD will have slightly better resale value, but it's got higher kays and has the tow bar and racks. 220 kays is getting up there though. The 2WD model has lower kays, but no tow bar or roof racks and is more expensive. Obviously because it is newer and having lower kays. Both one owner with service history. Question is, which was serviced better ? Were they serviced according to Toyota's stupid 15k service interval ? This will also dictate engine condition. The oil should be changed no later than 10k, not the 15k as specified in the book. This will lead to sludging issues the 2GR-FE engines are known for. For me, I'd try and negotiate a better deal on the lower kay 2012. Having lower kays will work in your favour, be cheaper to service and not have to worry about 4WD systems going bad and having an expensive repair bill as a result. If you don't off road, then it's pointless having 4WD. It will use more fuel too. A tow bar is around $500. Not sure about racks though. Perhaps the dealer may be able to hook you up, otherwise have a look on Ebay. Do you have a handy man around ? Pretty easy DIY job for both. Hope that helps Chelle. Good luck and post back anytime. Regards, Tony
  24. Ah the joys of modern tech. Hi John and welcome to the forum. It's possible it was just a glitch, but it could also be a compatibility issue with your phone's O.S. Have you tried downloading the app again ? You should also try it on another phone. Your phone software may need an update.
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