ozieagle

Just looked up carsales and there is only one, at $35,000. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1998-toyota-celica-sx-manual/SSE-AD-16667721/?Cr=0 Herb

Hi, I don't have a clue, but what I do to find the value of a car, is to go to Carsales.com, enter the details and see what others are going for. Herb

Hi Rob, Why not try a wrecker? They may have a unit from a wreck, which would be a direct replacement. Herb.

I would think that the batteries are beyond their use by date. Change vendor and / or check the dates on the package. Herb

Hi Stuart, Check around the wheel that went into the pot hole, it sounds like something gave there. Jack the car up to do it. Herb

Hi, Just some general comments. 2500 km for 1/2 litre oil consumption. I've had cars where the manual said that 1 pint per 1000 miles is acceptable, that's roughly 3/4 l in 1600 km. The car was never that bad, but it gives an indication of "acceptable" consumption, maybe just a way around warrantee claims for high consumption. The PCV system should have an oil separator in it, somewhere, to condense any oil vapour to stop it being sucked into the engine and burnt. If this is gunged up oil consumption goes up. Additives. When I bought my 28 year HiAce van, with 275,000 km on the clock, the seller mentioned that it used a bit of oil. I was a bit worried about passing a roadworthy with this, because of "blowing smoke", so I added a "stop oil burning" additive to the oil. Not a drop has disappeared in 9 months. I don't know whether this is due to the additive or the seller didn't really know what she was talking about. It did use a lot of coolant, but this was due to a faulty radiator cap. At the next oil change I will try a thicker grade of oil, say 20W 50, which is a common grade, for classic vehicles. Herb

Hi John, Sorry I can't answer specifics, as I'm a classic British car freak, and my answer was the sort of thing I would check in my cars. With a Corolla I would expect a fuel economy less that 10l/100km P.S. why I'm on this forum is that I have a 1995 Hi Ace camper. Herb

My first thought was a fuel leak. Cracked hose(s), after the pump, or weeping joins. Herb

Hi, Maybe this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/266595552088?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=266595552088&targetid=1741701789258&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071399&poi=&campaignid=18278742238&mkgroupid=141565058112&rlsatarget=pla-1741701789258&abcId=9301725&merchantid=116300920&gclid=CjwKCAiA_OetBhAtEiwAPTeQZ8eEhHVjJqxbP374VADr2u9qF3uYR9lWkLwMxRdwbw4i2vo3epkqfxoCq3YQAvD_BwE

Hi Abu, Before you rip the head off, check your radiator cap. I had the same issue and a new cap solved it. Herb

Sorry to be nasty, but bricks under jacks or to support the car, are extremely dangerous, as they can crumble leaving the jack / car without any support, so it drops, suddenly. There are many daisies coming up, from people who found this out the hard way. Use timber blocks, like 4x4 short post lengths. Herb

Hi, Have you tried this mob? Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama They seem to have just about anything for Jap cars and reasonable prices. Herb

If the existing opening is double DIN, then any other double DIN will fit. DIN is a standard size. Depth may be an issue, though. Herb

Bought this van back in May, and have been working on it to, one: get it roadworthy, and two: to refresh the interior. Here are some photos of how it went. When we got it every surface was covered with self adhesive floor tiles. Many were loose and some actually fell off when touched. Decided to replace most of them. Herb

OK, I've had a better look at the existing plug, and it does look like a coax type, sorta. If it is then I fear you are stuffed, as the coax is used for the video and the DC power, but requires circuitry at each end to separate the video from the power, which the new head unit won't have. You might just have to use the new camera. Sorry. PS The colours I mentioned, previously were for a display unit that has two video inputs, which are one each of the white and yellow wires. Herb

Hi, You could cut the ends of the cable off both and splice the new plug onto the old cable. From my experience there are 4 wires in there, red = power, black = ground, yellow and white = videos. Unfortunately Toyota most likely didn't stick with these colours. Also, in your last photo, one of the cables looks to be braided. Herb

I've done this with my new MG ZS. Space saver translates to less costly, to make. Herb

Hi, I feel your pain. It happened to me when I bought and drove my 1958 Wolseley home. Turned out to be a faulty battery connection. Herb

Hi, Check the exhaust system, to see if a hanger has failed and the pipes are hitting the body, somewhere. Herb

Have you checked the plug and wiring to the speakers? Herb

Welll, the first thing you need to do is to join a club, and they will guide you through the process. Herb

Two things to check. Coolant, it could be a faulty radiator cap. I had a faulty one in my recently purchased HiAce. New one solved my coolant loss. Oil leak, check the oil filter for damage. Daughter had her ASX serviced, came home with a trail of oil, like you. Turned out that the oil filter was tightened with what looked like a pipe wrench, which put a dint in it, that then cracked and sprayed oil. Good luck. Herb

Hi Lance, I may have been a bit premature, with my answer. I haven't studied CANBUS, but from early theoretical discussions it is a power bus running around the car, with a set of comms wires to controllers, that tap into the power bus. An ECU tells the controller to turn on or off the item. It is also a communications system between various ECUs in the car. In bed last night I remembered seeing ads for CANBUS LEDs, and was wondering if the control chip is imbedded in the LED structure, so no external controlled wire is accessible. Then I wondered if the headlight bulb included the controller, in which case my idea wouldn't work, no power lead to connect to. Try getting to the bulb connector and seeing if there is full power when they are turned on. The number of wires would also be a clue, two for normal wiring and 3 or 4 for CANBUS. Also consider that a headlight bulb would draw something like 5 to 10 amps, depending on its power rating, so anything powering it would need to be pretty hefty, anyway. Searching for CANBUS headlights it seems that only LEDs are CANBUS. Try searching for the workshop manual, for your car and the schematics may provide enlightenment. Herb More thoughts, after re-reading your post. The vehicle is still negative earth, the CANBUS is a two wire serial comms protocol. Loads are still required to have a power source, 12V, and a ground. The CANBUS provides an instruction to turn on or off. I doubt that the ECU would directly provide power for the headlights, and if it does it should be able to handle a low current relay, as well. Maybe using a transistor, like a BD 139, to turn the relay on, would prevent any extra load on the ECU. A revised circuit is attached. The diode is to prevent a voltage spike, when the relay is turned off. Parts are available from JAYCAR, including the relay. Herb

Hi Lance, I would use hard wiring, connecting to the high beam wire at the light The attached circuit shows how I would wire it. The hi beam controls one side of the relay, so when you dip, the relay releases and the spot goes off. The other end of the relay is connected to ground through the dash switch, which then controls whether the spot comes on at all. One of the relay contacts goes directly to the battery, via a fuse, near the battery. The other contact goes to the spot. The spot is grounded normally. No CANBUS involved. Herb

Hi, The new, to me, classic Hi Ace camper, I recently bought, was using a lot of coolant. I couldn't see any leaks or smell at the exhaust. Not wanting to get into an engine tear down I purchased a bottle of Bars Leaks. Went to use it and the instructions said to drain and refill the cooling system. Bugger that is a very difficult thing to do, on this vehicle, so shelved the idea for another day. That night I had a brain wave, as to why I was losing coolant, with no visible signs, maybe the radiator cap was letting it boil off. Checked the next day and the cap rubbers were as stiff as. Went to my local auto shop, bought a new cap and, voila, no more loss. I'm a happy camper, now. Herb