SuperDave

thx mate .... i always get asked "are they real brembo's" .... my response .... "nah mate they are ebay caliper covers" .... LOL ricer

Get that green car outta there. Ruining the nice clean white/silver theme

The 2zz isn't like driving most manuals, so take online lessons with a grain of salt. Best to just pay for 1 or 2 lessons in a manual and you'll be able to see how your progressing with the manual. Don't forget the Celica came with the auto if that's just easier for you (plus might be cheaper ;))

You are aware of the laws regarding changing an airbag steering wheel?

I'd recommend against the slotted/cross drilled rotors. The slots and holes are areas that cause cracking; also worthwhile understanding what they do and determine if you actually need what they provide. The cross drilling is used to providing a channel for any gases produced by the brake pads to vent out of. While the slots are there to resurface the face of the pad to prevent glazing. Both of these issues can be solved by correct pad selection for the application (refer to temperature ranges listed above). I haven't heard many good things about EBC greenstuff, and I've used QFM pads and didn't like the long pedal pedal feel. Both of those pads are street pads, they won't last on a mountain run.

You might have to buy a standard one and fit the kit yourself. Newcelica has them come up for sale a lot more often than here, so have a look around there for the kits.

1. The rear rotors are identical to the Sportivo, so no performance upgrade available there. The front rotors are larger in diameter on the sportive, so will require the brake calipers from the sportive too. Too much money for the upgrade in my mind unless you are competing. You'll need to select a pad for the purpose, on the street aim for up to 500*C, for the track aim for 800*C. For street I recommend the Toyota pads, for some mountain driving Endless SSS. Sporty/race pads tend to make more noise, so make sure you can live with that before you buy them. The rear pads don't do much, so save your money and just stick with stock. 2. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/13169-front-and-rear-brake-pad-change/ and http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/20071-zzt231-part-numbers/ (refer to '1zz' part numbers, but confirm with the supplier first if they are correct). 3. Can't help you there, I don't know anything about automatics. 4. You can pick up floor mats from shops like Autobarn/Repco/Bursons/Supercheap/etcetera 5. Tightening of chassis bolts is just a check over the bolt to ensure they haven't loosened between services. You'll need to know the correct torque setting of each bolt, and a torque wrench to check these. A check is usually only required if work has been done previously. 6. Australian delivered Corollas didn't come with the cabin filter, but you can order one to fit yourself. It's behind the glove box. To remove the glove box it's pretty simple. Open glove box, and gently, but firmly, pull up and out at a slight angle, it should pop out of the hinge and then you can drop the bottom to line up the tabs at the top with the slots in the dash to completely remove the glove box. To reinstall do the opposite, but you'll have to remount the little gas strut before popping the hinge back in.

lowering it won't solve the problem. Sounds like the steering rack is loose. New bushings should hopefully fix it, but I'm surprised it's done it since new. A wheel alignment won't help things as it won't be dynamically shifting left and right like worn bushings would (unless the steering rack is loose).

If it is snapped, how does it get repaired? I'd be reading the fine print carefully on who pays what in the event of a failure while they were driving. I'm thinking bad luck Toyota, the issue occurred under your care, if it was a crash, they would bill you for the repairs.

Meh, stock rotors are fine, that's what I use on the track without dramas. Stay clear of cross drilled rotors, they tend to crack around the holes (well so do slotted rotors around the slots, but less so).

Looking good CDUCTN, Mish/Mark/kids and Duy. Notorious Pete is the only member now with a perfect 100% attendance record now?

The fact it's not a DSG only helps :P As with anything in life, if it's been looked after, it'll last.

I've heard louder vacuum cleaners :P

Are you providing more grip to the front wheels, or taking grip away from the rear wheels ;) Springs control body roll, anti-roll bars control the balance.

Try adjusting the clutch first, it'll hopefully save you a bit of money up front.

^? The PowerFC doesn't talk to all the systems in the Corolla correctly plugged straight in, as the Celica has a different method of communication with the various systems. Whether it is piggy backed or plugged straight in doesn't effect it's ability. Don't confuse a piggy back ECU with a piggy backed ECU. It will work plugged straight in, but you won't have a couple of things, the tempoerature gauge in the cluster won't work, if you re-wire it to work, then the PFC won't have a temperature signal, so take your pick as to which one gets it. You can add another temperature sensor like a conversion harness does and get both though. The radiator fan won't work without some re-wiring. The idle electrical load won't work either without the conversion harness. This can be solved by having a 1000-1200rpm idle, but you might tire of this quickly.

Go to Toyota/Lexus and get them to adjust the clutch. The problem is the clutch wasn't adjusted correctly from the factory; it doesn't release the clutch enough and it drags slightly. The reason why going to a new clutch is because it needs adjustment after fitment. The adjustment is what fixes the problem.

Your existing exhaust will need to be cut behind the cat, and the new exhaust welded to it. The rest is bolt-on.

I can understand why they didn't want to do it. It's one of those things where the custom fab work needs to be done insitu. If the shop builds it to your specs, and it doesn't fit, would you blame the shop or yourself? Most people whould blame the shop and they ain't got time fo dat. Shops would get numerous dreamers ringing each day, not saying your a dreamer, but you have to think of it from their point of view. No reason why you couldn't get the shop to put the manifold together, as someone will have to put the exhaust/plumbing together anyway. Try Castle Hill Exhaust? I wouldn't know them from a bar of soap, but seems highly respected.

I think you've done well.

And not for scientific reasons!

Unless you know what temperature your oil currently gets to, then it's a wste of money. It is only needed if the oil temperature is exceeding 120*C. You also don't want to over cool your oil, below 80*C is bad. Around 100*C is the ideal point. The fact it's a sports car makes no difference to the oil. Theo nly way you'll be prolonging the engine life is if the oil temperature is getting high enough to cause the oil to oxidise, or too cool to adequately lubricate. You'll need to be careful that it won't overcool on the street. Can you link to some information on it. How many rows is the cooler, what price, et cetera? Power gains from cooling your oil, maybe, but only if you are outside of the oils operating temperature range. Wait until you have the car, find out what you need to change, before spending money on something that potentially isn't an issue. I wouldn't bother with getting it as a first mod, put the money towards brake pads as it will have much more benefit on the track.

I understand it depends on the dyno/day/phase-of-the-moon, but that's not that great. Castle Hill Exhaust turbo kit FTW.

To remove the 2zz requires the timing chain cover to come off too, so that's all accessories. Basically you are stripping it to a short block. Not impossible to do int he car, but don't under estimate the task. I'm very doubtful that the MWR, or any other, oil pump gears achieve anything. By reports I have read, the Circuitworx gears were junk and would break, some were just OEM gears with the part numbers removed. Think about what rpm you want to go to, then think about what it'll take to get there. Above 8800rpm you'll need new rods, above 8500rpm you'll want the valve train upgraded; unless you use aftermarket cams, then you'll have to upgrade regardless of redline. Go turbo on 8PSI, and spend less in the long run and keep the safe 8200rpm redline.

Driving up onto blocks just to jack the car up gets tired, very quickly. Same with scraping to get into and out of driveways, that would be the main reason why no one slams them. I dropped by 50mm, still look stock, and ground clearance is only around 120mm or so from memory. The subframe is a lower than the front lip.