SuperDave

Bump Because I'm feeling nice, there is an update to the first post. No exceptions will be made regarding any questions regarding parts and fault finding; so don't bother trying.

7th gen wins mechanically for me. The first gen still looks the best though.

nope, won't fit.

Becasue it is a scam. 20Hp gains, I'd like to see that even with my expensive ECU that works.

To be fair thoguh, I'veb only used fibreglass, not carbon fibre, principal is the same though. You can use fibreglass fabric, instead of CSM, and it'll give a similar look to carbon fibre. Stay away from epoxy and the costs can be pretty cheap. Taking the mould of the lip will be the hard part as it needs to be pretty stiff. Make friends with a good glassing supply store, they can offer a lot of advice.

That's the Levin one Steve. No one makes a carbon fibre one, you'll have to go custom. I wouldn't imagine much change from a grand. Otherwise you can give it a go yourself, it's surprisingly easy to do a decent job (but hard to do a perfect job).

To be 6s off your PB, something must have been majorly wrong. Brakes won't make that much difference on their own. How was everyone else fairing on the day, the general consensus a slow day (dirty surface)? Any oil/fluid down? If the tyres are the same I wouldn't be blaming them for that. Probably a lot of minor thigns adding up. Like heat, tyres slightly older, dirty track surface, not in the groove, down on a bit of track driving (you can lose pace just like losing fitness).

It'll plug straight in and run. The car will want to stall under electrical load, such as AC and power steering. Radiator fan won't automatically turn on either. But pretty much fine. Just give the car a 1000rpm idle for the electrical load issue, and keep an eye on the radiator temperature, but again will only be an issue if you are idling for a very long time.

Not sure how one oil can be recommended over another without used oil analysis results. The quality oils will perform pretty well for 99.9% of vehicles and situations. I'd skip the additives too.

10w60 is probably a bit thick for down Melbourne way isn't it?

What, is he 6?

Whoever put the head together, were they aware that the intake and exhaust rocker shafts are bespoke to their side of the engine? Are the shafts rotated the correct way? If the lift bolts are in then they should be on the correct side and correct way. The lift bolts working loose, and come out, is another issue as the torque setting is so low most wrenches (other than the low 0-40Nm ones) can't accuratly get the 20Nm or so they need. Depending how good you are with the tools the valve cover can come off in about 20 minutes for a quick check for the status of the bolts and rocker shafts. Plus all the other ideas mentioned above too.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/11228-suspension-service-specifications/

The UK version lacks the body kit and wheels. UK got TC, but that's a negative feature anyway. Brakes are different between the two. There was a compressor model in the UK. Australian ones are made in South Afrika.

If you have a Sportivo with the original engine, then the bolts will be fine. At most the plating will have worn off. What price do toyota want for the bolts locally? I'd be surprised if it was over $70.

Mick, my factory axle/hub nuts were 12 point. Another way is your friend stands on the brakes, and use a jack on the breaker bar to save your lower back.

Buddha's back!

The stock manifold is pretty short, so the flange to the mid pipe is high up. The flange to the muffler is near the rear axle beam. It should be in 3 pieces if stock; manifold, mid pipe, muffler. But as they say a photo is worth a thousand words.

C-, Must try harder

Skip the octane booster, you'd get more gains by running a 'thinner' oil.

Yes, but I've only done 2zz, not the 1zz. So check to see if Toyota hid a bolt into the head behind the timing chain cover. The workshop manual explains the proceedure pretty well.

Opps, didn't see the 'excluding' bit. For $500 you'll be hard pressed to find something that will help engine power. If you can turn a spanner try what 4AB says. I'll assume the 1zz head removal is much the same as the 2zz, so it involves removing all the accessories as well.

If your trap speed is higher you have more power. The reason why you are slower is at the other end of the strip; as DJKOR says, there are quite a few variables for this. How do the 60' times compare?

It's all personnal preference. I've tried various levels of rake and I've found that works best for my setup and driving style. It's an open debate, so feel free to point out where you disagree, I might learn something from it.

Suspension Coilovers are only a requirement if you intend on doing setup work. If you aren’t going to do setup work, then just buy springs and struts. Bolting coilovers onto the car and not adjusting them is likely to result in going no faster, or even slower. Car companies have actual race drivers help them with setup work, yes even in mundane cars. The function of the stiffer springs and higher dampening is there to help the tyre keep better contact with the road surface, so adding more negative camber helps out, explained in more depth further down. Cusco supply their off-the-shelf kit with 7kg/mm spring rates at the front and 5kg/mm spring rates at the rear. To understand these numbers it’s best to break them down. A unit of weight per distance means that if a weight of x was placed on the spring it would compress by 1 unit of distance. So in this case 7kg would compress the spring by 1mm. Why is the front spring rate ‘heavier’ than the rear? Well in the Corolla’s case it has been blessed with very poor weight distribution, about 65:35 http://au.toyotaowne...corner-weights/ So with this information it’s easy to work out how much the suspension will compress by under the self weight of the car. With the numbers from that link; FL: 50mm, FR: 62mm, RL: 46mm, RR: 40mm. As can be seen the coilovers will need to be set at different lengths to achieve a level height once sitting stationary. As for setup work, you can adjust the dampening, rebound, ride height, toe and camber. Not all adjustments may be available depending on the coilovers or spring/strut combination purchased. Dampening is the absorbing force. Before I mentioned that the spring will rest at a certain height with a certain load. You’ll note I didn’t mention anything about the strut. The strut is there to absorb the energy and to ‘dampen’ the oscillations of the spring. Too stiff and the car won’t absorb the bump and have a rough ride and likely damage something. Too soft and the spring will keep bouncing along well after the bump has occurred. Rebound is similar, but in the opposite direction. Ride height can be used to set the car level, or at an angle front to rear, called ‘rake’. Dropping the rear relative to the front will shift weight rearwards, and vice-versa. I’ve found the car likes the rear to sit about 50mm higher at the back than the front. But only setup work will yield a setup that suits your car and driving style. Camber, throw as much in the front as you can get. The Corolla rolls heavily under lateral load and you’ll find your shoulders are worse for wear after a couple of sessions. -5* or so should do it, but you’ll have to think outside the box to get it at the front. For the rear you can use less, but as it isn’t adjustable, you’ll have to get creative there as well to get some adjustment. -2* at the back should be plenty. Toe, think of the tyres as your feet. When you stand with your toes together, that’s toe-in, and vice-versa. I like the car with zero toe, but you might like it different. To save explaining the cause and effect I’ll link to a copy of Carroll Smith’s excellent guide from his books http://www.ftw.com.a...ause_Guide.html Anti-roll bars No they aren’t sway bars, they don’t do any swaying. Now that that is out of the way we can move on. Anti-roll bars, by name, don’t do what they are called. The anti-roll bars are there to trim the oversteer and understeer characteristics of the car. The springs should be used to control the roll. On the front, the stock anti-roll bar will be fine, but it depends on what your setup data reveals and could be worth trying out to gain valuable tenths. I found the thicker front antiroll bar reduced the inside wheel spin out of slow corners, but at the expense of a little apex speed. The rear anti-roll bar in stock form (for the Sportivo at least) doesn’t cut it. It is 19mm in diameter, while the normal Corolla has a 21mm item. Anything thicker will improve the corning ability of the car at the detriment of increased lift off oversteer. The sportivo with its extra power is more prone to lift off oversteer in stock form than the normal Corolla, hence the different bar thicknesses. But on a track car you of course know better than the factory’s development driver (note sarcasm). Once you have some experience with the car on the track and find it is understeering, you need to increase the thickness of the rear anti-roll bar. 23/24mm is probably what I would recommend. Selby’s and Whiteline can custom make to order if you are willing to wait. Brakes Rotors Now you don’t need slots and cross drilling and whatever else in between. All that is needed is the selection of the correct pad temperature range for the application, covered below. Back to the rotors; first you need to understand why the slots and drill holes are there in the first place, and what they bring to the table in terms of effects. The drill holes allow gases produced by the pads to enter into the central vanes and be expelled. The downside to cross drilling is the small radius is a stress raiser where cracks form and the rotor is likely to fail. I have seen it happen. If you have a close look at a Porsche Cup car, the rotor will have hairline cracks around the cross drilled holes. The holes need to be offset from each other or else they are likely to cause uneven pad wear. The purpose of slots is to resurface the pad to remove a thin trip from the surface. This effectively removes any glazing that has formed on the surface of the pad. These slots are also stress raisers as the material is thinner in these areas, and is prone to cracking. I have also seen this occur. My recommendations are plain rotors, plus they are cheaper too. Pads I can’t say it enough, select a pad that is fit for purpose. If the car is a street car, go for something up to 400*C, if the car sees the odd short burst and the brakes aren’t applied all that often and has a chance to cool down aim for anything up to 500*C. For the track and mountain runs look at the 800*C range. Before I mentioned glazing and outgassing, if you refer to Carroll Smith’s wonder list posted above, this will give you an idea of the affect and cause. I don’t recommend buying pads based on brand, it is always better to buy based on the specs of the pads. Would you buy a computer without looking at the specs to know what you are getting? Why should brakes (which are vastly more important) be any different? If the manufacturer doesn’t provide that information, ask them, and if they still don’t look elsewhere. I am surprised brake pad manufacturers don’t freely give this information out, unless they have something to hide ;) While looking at the specs you’ll see a funny looking ‘μ’ symbol. That is our Greek alphabet friend, physicists use, for the coefficient of friction. A higher the number the more friction there is (think skin on asphalt) while the lower the number the less friction there is (think ice on a plate). Just like an engine power curve the peak number may not occur at the peak of the heat range. That is why it’s worthwhile trying out a couple of different pads to get an idea of where this occurs. Or better still ask the pad manufacturer for the coefficient of friction curve. You’re unlikely to get it though. Setup work Before you embark on gathering setup information there are a number of rules to follow. Make sure you are consistent in your lap times. If your lap times vary by 1s each lap either the car is a pig or you’re not as good as you thought you were (traffic/rain/oil excluded). To fix this problem more track time is the solution. If testing on semi slicks or slicks, keep in mind they can improve or degrade depending on the number of heat cycles and tread depth, so this will throw another variable into the mix. I like to approach testing by having a baseline setup. This setup will be one I use each time I go testing, until I have found my preferred setup. Head out and set a time on your base line setup. Then make one (1) adjustment, anything you want, as long as it is the one change. Head out again and note the times. Keep repeating until the day is done. Or until conditions change that testing data can no longer be gathered, eg. fluid down or rain et cetera. Each time you go out to test make sure you go back to the baseline setup to compare all the data between different days any conditions to each other. This will allow you to apply factors to the peak, average lap, and standard deviation. Yes I like to compare the times in those three ways. A car might have a fast undriveable setup giving a good peak time, but poor average time. The standard deviation is useful I find to compare, peak, slowest, and average times to each other (plus it’s a good check of how well you are as a setup driver, a low number means you are doing well). Repeat the process as long as it takes to achieve the best setup for your car and driving combination. Every now and again it’s still worthwhile trying something different to see if your data still matches your skill level as you gain more experience or change parts over time. Tyres can have a big effect on the data, so be very careful in this regard. With all this new information you can now venture forth and conquer your foes on the track!