SuperDave

Isn't this something that should be considered prior to the purchase? The track width will be about 87mm narrower, ignoring tyre size as the tyre 'size' rarely matches it's dimensions. The 15x6 has the potential to be lighter, reducing unsprung mass. But it depends on the actual weight as it's possible that the 16x8 could be the same weight depending on the design and materials. Less track width will reduce lateral grip; but it's more dependant on the tyre compound, but assuming the same compound it will be reduced.Do some reading up on scrub radius to learn about the effects on the suspension geometry, but as I'm guessing it's a road car, it'll be fine.

Go with an Injen CAI. The extractors might cost $500, but unless you fit them yourself you'd be up for a few hundred morei n fitting.

Just ad an oil-air seperator, the oil in the plenum will remove itself with time. To remove the intake manifold is a big job.

Depends on what you are after. Some people might like the low down torque of the Mazda, while others might like the high revs and noise of the Sportivo. The SP23 is more of a match to the Sportivo than the sportmaxx. There will obviously be biased opinions here towards the Toyota, and I'll be no different. But based on the 3 cars mentioned the Sportivo suits me better. I don't find it boring, but it depends on what YOU are after. Celicas of the same era tend to be cheaper, so could be worthwhile looking into if you don't mind 2 doors.

HZL in carina. Looked alright from my bus seat :(

Cehck the fine print to see if there is a balloon payment at the end, how long is the rate for? et cetera. The comparison rate thing is a way to compare loans with differing fees. So if it is 0% it would appear that there are no monthly fees or establishment fee. But check the fine print.

That's unlucky. I've had the etching after a night as well. But it was only the once, maybe the bird/bat was eating chilli that night. All others wash off fine.

The extra thickness wasn't due to the powdercoating/paint was it? I've had to sand paper some of the paint off before to make the Whiteline stuff fit. Selby's can make the antiroll bars to order, so you can get any size you like. Pretty sure Fulcrum or Pedders can order it in. I have a 22mm Whiteline bar here I'd be willing to sell.

What do you mean by two rings? Got pictures?

The zze corolla requires 2 nuts and 1 bolt at the rear for fitment, while the zzt celica requires 3 nuts. The mounting pattern is exactly the same, just the length varies by about 1-2" from memory. I have a thread in the suspension section comparing the two.

And early 1zz corolla is 50L, and later ones are 55L. Can't remember the change over year; possibly with the facelift.

Dazza needs a warning for his avatar animation being too short.

I don't think the discount has any bearing on the mileage :P

The wheels sit pretty good with that spec and are practical.

Look for 1994 (NA?) MX5 rims. Offset is pretty close to right for the ZZE, 4x100, +35 et cetera.

I've heard mixing DOT5 and DOT3/4 (and DOT5.1) can cause a spongy pedal. I've never tried it myself though. Some brakes pads are 'spongier' than others too. Are you sure the pads are square with the surface? Easy way to check is to give the rotors a hose (cold of course), leave over night or a couple of days till they get a light rust layer on them. Drive around for a bit and see where the wear pattern is. Or pull out a pads after a while and check visually.

My guess it they will overheat and chew through the rubber in the heat up here. But I don't have experience with winter tyres in a hot climate, I'm just guessing.

Go Lambo purple :P

The very name 'ice guard' gives away the fact it won't work very well anywhere where it doesn't get icy. I'm assuming you live near Redcliffe if you are eye-ing off that ad.

The knocking noise from the right front, does it happen all the time or only while turning? If while turning it's likely a worn CV joint.

Not sure how well would a RWD Toyota premium sedan would work here, as Toyota Australia also has Lexus with its RWD sedan range (Plus RHD Mark X is JDM-only. Brand new ones sold by Toyota HK still have the 180KM/H speedo.). The Mark X shares the same platform with the Lexus IS/ GS (The Mark X slots in between these two in JDM land.) & Crown, which will make it hard to position down under (Especially the price, it will clash with Lexus here.). I guess the only other way is to get an importer to apply for the car to be added under the SEVS registry, so that it can be brought in as a low volume import (Might take a while though with the 18 month from release window, unless someone starts a petition and show an importer that there is demand for the Mark X in brand new form.). Now, if only the market would open up to parallel imports. In Japan, the car isn't all that more expensive than the GT86. Mark X starts at Y2,500,000. Toyota Australia needs a better focus group if they can't see the cars they sell here aren't what the market want. A medium sized rwd car for $40k would steal sales from Holden and Ford. The GT86 should be a wake up call to the fact they are selling the wrong cars. Easiest way to get Toyota's attention is to email them and ask when it is coming out. Enough interest will sway their opinion.

You are correct int hat you won't get a road worthy with the indicators not working properly. Up to you if you want the previous auto electrician to have a look at why it doing what it is doing, or could try someone else. Auto electronics are a funny thing and experience really helps. When they signals on the dash come on, is there still the clicking that indicators do? Or is it silent? I'm thinking if it is silent the relay(s) might be playing up. Could also be a dodgy connection somewhere in the steering column.

Best advice I was given when I went looking for a car was to buy something you don't mind writing off. As an 18 year old, look into what insurance will cost you over anythign else. $1500 may not seem like much the first time, but you will soon tire of handing it over each year.

Probably best to talk to some automotive upholsters. I'd guess you're out of luck and will need to re-trim it, but at least you spec a better quality leather.

I can't speak for NSW, but I know in QLD you need the seat rails engineered and the seatbelt modification engineered. The seatbelt is attached to the factory rail and needs to be attached to the new mount.