yoshi2015

Good to hear, the rear sway bar on it's own really does make a difference, I drove a 50 series recently that was completely stock.. yeah nah, full boat. New shocks also do make a difference if you're using like 5+ year old ones, upgrading to new ones with same stiffness still gives a noticeable improvement over worn ones

Hi, We recently got a 2018 kluger gx but it seems that it's missing the auto door lock feature when you go over 20km/h or move the car from P. Is this the case with all the Klugers? or do the higher trims get them ? My Aurion and previous camry's had this feature... so kind of annoying not having it.. real easy to forget to lock

Yeah great tyres, probably overkill for the car, body roll and understeer will get you before these tyres lose grip. It's hard to get a good deal on them though, I'd go towards the RE003 if I have to replace these, since Bridgestone regularly do buy 3 get 1 free

Nice write up! I've got a 2012 GSV50 Aurion Touring and wanted to share some mods. I bought an Ultra Racing 19mm rear sway (UR-AR19-159) bar last year or year before, it was about $314 delivered (Sydney to Melbourne). The same bar fits on the 50 series camry, https://ultraracingaustralia.com.au/product-category/toyota/camry-aurion-xv50-asv50r-gsv50r-avv50r-11-17/ comes with the stronger polyurethane bushes. Took about 3-4 weeks delivery, not sure how it will work with COVID atm. Other mods: Upgraded brakes to 2 piston kluger, pretty much straight swap of caliper + new disc and pads following a guide that was on this forum? I think. Running bendix rotors / qfm pads. Have KYB shocks all 4 corners Springs have been changed to King Spring Low (~25mm drop), only really scrape on super steep driveways Running Bridgestone S007a (changed tyre to 225/50/17 from 215/55/17 on stock rim) - Don't recommend going to a lower profile unless your car is lowered, the car looks funny, really big wheel gap. K&N filter - (with drilled holes in airbox for more noise, very obvious on WOT) doesn't do too much.. but has nice induction noise I've owned since the car since 2017, did the upgrades slowly over ~16 months (did installation of the bar/springs and shocks in my garage), the 19mm rear sway bar wasn't that great on it's own, but once I had new shocks + stiffer springs and better tyres, it's definitely a lot nicer to drive. Had a trip to the Yarra Ranges in Victoria last year with a few mates who had some pretty quick cars (2013 Megane RS265 / 2011 wrx) and through the hilly parts, there was no problem keeping up within the 90-100km/h+ zones. Obviously at higher speeds they'll pull away, but keeping it within the country speed limits through the sweeping corners, they found it hard to pull away (did most of the hilly parts in 2nd/3rd gear, used about 20L/100 lol), 80-120km/h was very similar for all 3 cars. I'll definitely be seeing how much it'll cost for the double offset kit, probably last thing I do to this car before I give it to my wife and I move on haha.

I've recently purchased this and works great: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PAIR-Philips-4-LED-Daylight-Daytime-Running-Lights-DRL4-12830WLEDX1-/110713799096?hash=item19c70e81b8:g:qcUAAOSweW5VVpv2

Hi guys, I've just installed some DRL's on my 2012 corolla today and I'm wondering what the best way is to hook into the parkers ? The Philips DRL's I've got have a wire that taps into the headlight/parkers so they dim when headlights are on. Kind of not wanting to splice/fast-tap into the parker light straight from the bulb, anybody know where the parker wire is in the fuse box ? Or have a diagram they can share ? Thanks

Hi guys, Recently acquired a 2012 Corolla conquest and installed DRL's today. The Philip's DRL's actually came out a lot better than I thought they were going to ! Everything is stock right now except badges + DRL's. Might leave it that way unless I can get myself a rear sway bar for cheap, then I'll probably get some lowering springs same time.