campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. Reminds me of being under the Holden watching my Dad greasing the ball joints. Also had a laugh noticing that long breaker bar in his hands. Explains how Dad was so easily able to get in this current dilemma. Hopefully you showed which direction to undo when you are working upside down under the car. I am always using a ratchet driver to verify that I will be loosening, not tightening. Pays to have a backup plan so just in case you have cross-threaded the housing, nice to know there are replacements readily available. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Oil-Filter-Cap-RFA202-fits-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-GSV40R-3-5-GSV50R-3-5/153824905169?hash=item23d0adc7d1:g:s9IAAOSwtN9ePb0o
  2. Good idea. I have been thinking about how I was going to use it. Internet searches have been saying ok to mix with the same brand of oil i.e. Nulon.
  3. As an update, I did previously clean and re-gap the spark plugs. MAF sensor and spark plugs have now been delivered; air filters have yet to be received. MAF sensor got fitted Saturday morning and Yaris was back to normal. After a test drive and further driving this morning, decided not necessary to replace spark plugs until say Xmas.
  4. After reading the following URLs, I am quite happy with the using a higher viscosity oil for engine wear protection especially in extreme driving conditions. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a53/what-oil-does-my-car-take/
  5. I would be more inclined to check/replace the PCV valve and do an oil and filter change using a quality full synthetic oil 5W-40 or 10W-40. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/2001-toyota-echo-burning-too-much-oil.351706/
  6. I estimate about 500ml. Oil was in good condition [only a few months old] so I reused it. After filling up the housing with the cartridge in position, there was about 100ml left in the drain pan so it went back into the engine.
  7. I have just put the car up on ramps and used a cloth strap wrench to loosen the oil filter housing. Not a valid test for your situation because my housing came undone just using hands. Checked the filter cartridge for sludge particles then refitted. There is lots of rotational clearance especially if you remove the plastic under engine cover. I also have used this tool on the spin on filters e.g Z386 The small size does fit onto the bottom of the housing. A larger size in combination with the removal tools will reduce the risk of damaging the housing. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-oil-filter-wrench-cam-action-small/13035.html
  8. You may need to resort to a large shifter spanner. Maybe use in combination with those already damaged removal tools. https://www.google.com.au/shopping/product/1350841404733803604?lsf=seller:100794174,store:17582675787785968941&prds=oid:9531139694404591514&q=large+shifter+spanner&hl=en&ei=VfGHXqHsFNOK4-EPnsqToAw&lsft=gclid:CjwKCAjwvZv0BRA8EiwAD9T2VZ_SbJwT-ENE_qO6GVBytqoMomB0dF_W-Mj9BXuRfydD9L1M964QqRoCXTsQAvD_BwE,gclsrc:aw.ds
  9. I will have to check whether there is enough access for a cloth strap wrench to get around the filter housing. https://www.apexinds.com/blog/types-oil-filter-removal-tools/
  10. I mainly buy my engine oil on special at SuperCheap. Main criteria is the viscosity 5W/10W-30/40 and oil specification e.g. ILSAC GF-5. Penrite, Nulon and GulfWestern being Australian are my preferences. http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/about-us/
  11. This full synthetic Nulon engine oil 0W-16 is a Clearance sale item at SuperCheap. Not recommended for my Aurion but it should be ok mixed or as a top up with other engine oil. Just bought 2 this morning which was all of their floor stock at that store. If I want more, I will have to drive further afield. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-hybrid-and-fuel-conserving-engine-oil---0w-16-5-litre/540632.html?cgid=SCA01070403#pmin=20.00&pmax=50.00&sz=60&start=17
  12. I buy my filters in bulk on eBay and I occassionally change the filter cartridge before the oil change is required. Because of accumulated oil sludge in the engine, I have been regularly checking and cleaning the oil filter cartridge. Not doing it as often as before. Quality oils and regular oil changes are a given. I do an oil and filter changes more regularly than most because my driving is mainly short distance. Also because I am DIY with a big stash of oil [bought on special] and filter cartridges, I can change my oil more often. It would be a different story if I was having to pay someone else.
  13. You may want to give some thoughts as to how you are foing to record your observations. I check my oil level weekly so I can readily notice the oil on the dipstick changing from being clear to a slightly golden colour. Nothing like a series of photos to substantiate your observations.
  14. A full synthetic oil is definitely the way to go especially for longer interval oil changes. Just happened to be looking at the electronic version of the service manual and the recommendation is 5W-30 for performance and fuel economy. However, I am sure that the Australian owners manual has a number of different oil viscosity ranges. I do recall reading about a higher oil viscosity for engine wear protection. I have recently looked at some YouTube videos comparing oils with the same viscosity and their flow rate. Appears that the different additive package enables a better flow rate when I was expecting the flow rate to be the same for oils with the same viscosity. All food for thought. Hopefully later in the year, when I am able to go for my annual road trip Brisbane to Wagga Wagga, travelling on the highway with outside temperature of 35C plus and the air-conditioning on max. I will probably have 10W-40 oil in the engine. However, I was thinking about using 5W-30 for the next oil change but winter has yet to arrive in Brisbane.
  15. Explains why the Police appear to target the younger drivers to re-educate them into driving sensibly to stay alive. Took the experience of 2 accidents in a row for me to adopt a defensive driving attitude. Aggressive driving of which tailgating is a sign will eventually result in a smashed up vehicle. Quite happy to get out of their way so they can rush off for their destiny with KARMA. After they come to grief, I just keep driving safely to my destination.
  16. There is a similar thread on the USA ToyotaNation Forum. One post that caught my attention included a diagram of how the tailgater is so close that they cannot see the road ahead. Suggestion involved an upcoming bend in the road and to make a last second steering to go around the bend. The tailgater then has to do some drastic steering to avoid going off the road. Sounds very deliberate but it does highlight how the driver being tailgated could get distracted so not watching the road ahead then have to do some last minute steering themselves. This is the reason why I ignore tailgaters.
  17. Not yet. At the time, I did not know how to the fluid level check procedure and to locate the return hose. I dropped the transmission pan and changed the filter/strainer. Lots of frustrating fun with that bolt. SInce then I have done a fluid changes of the ATF in the transmission pan. Now a annual task in keeping with my over servicing regime. Did some calculations in an excel spreadsheet and worked out that 6 fluid flushes over an extended period of time would end up giving the same result as a full flush i.e. 100% new fluid. I am planning upon dropping and cleaning the transmission pan on my project Aurion then doing a full flush. Also making a note of that Toyota Nation URL posted by AurionX2 for future reference.
  18. Just did a quick internet search. Not sure if it is in the following URL but you could potentially have a blocked drainage pipe. Water in the footwell is a sign of this. This makes sense because after the A/C has been running and you park the vehicle, there usually is a pool of water under the vehicle https://macsworldwide.wordpress.com/2010/07/12/the-evaporator-is-an-important-part-of-your-car%E2%80%99s-ac-system/
  19. The fun is the frustration and satisfaction of getting the job done. It is also my "hobby" being taught by my Dad to have useful hands rather than having to pay someone else. From these savings, I "invest" in tools. Still investing and finding more useful tools to have. I do have that infra-red temperature scanning tool but still unused. Through trial and error and input from other members, I have simplified the ATF change procedure. Maybe time to do a fluid level check just to be sure.
  20. Have you read those URLs that I have provided? Read them and you will have some action items that will not cost much except some time and effort.
  21. Have a read of this URL https://www.fixya.com/cars/t16075049-code_c1201_engine_control_system https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0280018.pdf This next URL explains how you got that error code. Previous URL mentions dosconnecting the battery to reset the ECM or ECU. https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0280018.pdf
  22. I recall reading that ambient factory temperature is 20C. I did look for the fluid co-efficient of expansion and calculated that 6570ml expands by 490ml with a 80C difference. Agree.
  23. Just gave the girlfriend's '06 Yaris YRS a bit of a service last Sunday. Cleaned the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the air filter. Al appeared to be ok but the vehicle started running very roughly and threw up a CEL. Scan tool showed a P0172 code which I have since cleared. Yaris was idly very roughly and would not rev, just coughing and spluttering. Initial thoughts was that I had stuffed up the MAF sensor and possibly the spark plugs need replacing. Next thought is that the air filter and the ignition coils need to be replaced. I have ordered MAF sensor, plugs and air filters via eBay. Another suspect is a vacum line which could do with a clamp. After cleaning the MAF sensor again and giving the Yaris a few test drives around the block, it is drivable but could idle more smoothly. I will give an update in a few weeks time.
  24. My experience is that the Aurion is a great Highway cruiser. Able to run all day and when you need to overtake, there is plenty of power for a quick overtaking manouvre then back to leisurely cruising. I know that I have a V6 with 200kw of power and have nothing to prove. In my book, winning is all about getting safely from point A to B. Losing is a broken down or wrecked car. Prefer to leave that to the Holden and Ford boys playing with their toys. Also a low profile means no police attention and those involuntary offers to contribute to the Govt coffers.
  25. Surprised that it is only $1000. Presumably that is on an exchange basis and they must be thinking that they can rebuild your transmission. According to Wikipedia, it is the same transmission. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Aurion_(XV40)