campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. I previously watched some YouTube videos about repacking sealed bearings. . When I recently replaced the alternator, I took the opportunity to repack both of the idler pullrys. Interestly, it was the upper idler pulley underneath the thermostat housing that was in more need of having to be regreased. Instead of a pick, I used a precision screwdriver with the smallest flat blade plus some silicon spray to help the process. I also used Castrol LMM grease, pushing the grease in with my finger plus also grease on the inside of the seal which then helps to push more grease into the bearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf_sttobyyY
  2. RDA rotors is a good choice. However, I bought the following front rotors on eBay but have yet to fit them. I also bought the rear rotors too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-VMAXS-fits-TOYOTA-Aurion-GSV40R-2006-Onwards-FRONT-Disc-Brake-Rotors/122678193968 I also use the Bendix Ultra Premium pads [proven product] but the General purpose will also suit my driving requirements. I drive smart so trying to avoid any unnecessary hard braking and most of my driving is essentially urban. However, I do an annual interstate open highway trip so my vehicle is set up for an emergency hard braking. Long past experience was having to do a hard brake from 100kph down to a standstill to avoid a head on collision. Still remember the cloud of tyre smoke drifting by after becoming stationery. Also do not overlook having good quality brand name tyres to enhance braking performance and safety.
  3. Have a look at this eBay listing for the part number. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-AURION-ALTERNATOR-3-5-2GR-FE-2008/333111502525?hash=item4d8efe26bd:g:8LUAAOSw2hhchdBK&frcectupt=true It is a time consuming task to replace the Aurion alternator so my recommendation is to buy a best quality new alternator.
  4. Much like yourself, my Aurion is also my first V6 and first sportsmatic transmission, Absolutely love the acceleration on the open highway when overtaking. Aurion cruises very nicely all day. Nice to know the engine outputs 200KW and quite amusing [to me] to watch all those cars with 4 cylinder engines being worked hard to show off. I prefer a stealthy whisper quiet sounding exhaust so also amusing to be beside a vehicle with a loud exhaust and to be well ahead of them from a standing start with just normal acceleration.
  5. Ryan, the V6 2GR-FE engine fitted to the Kluger and Aurion has a timing chain. Engine should be good for 400K before any serious work is required.. However, this engine is more prone to engine sludge than other modern engines so regular oil and filter changes are essential. Recently, I replaced the alternator on my 2007 Aurion with 207,500 kms on the odometer. As [slow moving] DIY, it took me approx. 4 hours to remove alternator then 3 hours to fit the new one. Approx, 200K, I had to replace the rear VVTi oil line when the rubber hose mid-section sprung a leak fortunately early Saturday morning and I already had the parts. This was replaced with a full metal line and took me lots of hours.
  6. I use RedBook and Australian Car Review as preliminary guides. It has the 6 speed sportsmatic automatic transmission which I absolutely love in my Aurion. Being very much conservative and traditional, I am avoiding CVT in used vehicles. Howver, the latest CVT with a fixed 1st gear in the 2019 Corolla has got my attention.as the next stage of evolution. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2014-toyota-camry-altise-auto/SPOT-ITM-402309/ http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Toyota&model=Camry&gen=888
  7. Craig, I think that you will find that because your 07 Aurion is more than 10 years old that Toyota Australia will not accept a claim to replace the dash. However, your situation may be treated differently particularly if this dash issue had previously been reported for your vehicle by previous owner/s.
  8. Rear brake pad dimensions are very different. You would be best advised to remove a rear wheel and visually inspect the brake pads to determine which one is going to fit your vehicle.
  9. I usually use RedBook for specifications. Instead of VIN series it does have the engine code 2ZZ-GE for your vehicle https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2005-toyota-corolla-sportivo-manual/SPOT-ITM-281798/
  10. I have just replaced the alternator in my Toyota Aurion. In hindsight, I should have checked the alternator output with a multimeter especially when I was thinking that the headlights were not as bright as before. Maybe your alternator has an intermittent fault to not be working the best when under load.
  11. Just came across this URL which mentions 4 main recommended engine oil change intervals based upon your driving habits. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/vehicle-maintenance/dirty-truth-about-oil-changes.htm
  12. Recently, the battery charging warning light came on while driving home Thursday night. Checked the fusible link and it ended up being OK. Starting to look as though the alternator would have to be replaced. As luck would have it, I was going to be taking the girlfriend about 4AM next Monday to the airport. Friday morning, I recharged the battery, refitted it Friday night to drive to girlfriend's house. Car was still drivable but the battery charging warning light was still on. Certainly then appreciated having the larger size and capacily before the battery became fully drained. Fortunately, the warning light went out after I accelerated hard to change lanes. I am guessing that the decoupler pulley on the alternator is now functioning correctly rather than the alternator. Will further check the alternator.
  13. Not going to disagree but the discolouration is an indicator that the plastic is aging. I checked online and the best information was that the plastic wears from the inside and the life of a radiator is approx. 10 years. After about 15 years, the original radiator on my 1998 Camry started to have a slight leak around the top plastic tank so immediately bought a replacement from eBay. Radiator in my 2006 Aurion is about 12 years old and is only slightly discoloured/faded. Now got a radiator in my eBay watchlist.
  14. I have noticed the same improvement but my Aurion does not pull that hard to the left. Attached file is my ready reference notes for the Pull to the Left issue. Something else to consider is to replace the front lower control arms on both sides with polyurethane bushes. Toyota Aurion Pull Left Issue.docx
  15. There is lots of information in the prior posts for this thread. Solutions vary so it can be quite vehicle specific. Changing oil viscosity may help or even desludging your engine to improve oil pressure. In my case, I drive lots of short distances [15-20 minutes] so my engine is more prone to oil sludge than someone else who is driving longer distances for 30+minutes. Therefore, my oil change interval is more frequent. I have also changed over to full synthetic oil with SN or GF-5 oil specification for enhanced oil sludge protection. Best to do your own further research then work out a few options to try.
  16. Have a read of Stress and Failure section in the following URL https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connecting_rod
  17. I am more into stock standard with an emphasis upon preventative maintenance and efficiency gains. However, I am highly interested in this modification for potential efficiency gains. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56288-aurion-performance-mod/ Although not a modification, lots of advantages in having the best quality known brand tyres suitable for your driving style and requirements. After tyres, my next emphasis would be upon suspension e.g. replacing worn struts again with a quality known brand suitable for your driving style and requirements.
  18. Thank you for that bit of information. Looks like I will have to put a filter and ATF change on the "Should Do"list for my 2008 Aurion Prodigy which has 110K on the odometer when I finally decide to register her and give my 2006 ATX a rest. I was previously using Chief synthetic ATF but changed to Penrite ATF LV. Replaced the transmission pan ATF before an interstate road trip and again after 5K. Gear changes are now so much smoother when cold and not noticable when ATF has warmed up. Still got about 20 litres of Penrite ATF LV [purchased when on special] so will be a few years before I will need more full synthetic ATF.
  19. Afer looking at this YouTube video, I would be considering more of the braking technology aids e.g. emergency brake assist. Good reminder to go check my vehicle's tyre pressure particularly after a recent [not serious] mishap with rear tyres losing grip going around a corner on a wet suburban road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2T3clFrB8U
  20. Main thought is that the differential is in a seperate housing to the automatic transmission for this Toyota Camry series. I was used to them being combined in my previous Hondas so overlooked replacing the differential oil when I was replacing the ATF. After about 100,000kms, I finally realised this. When I changed the differential oil in my 1998 Toyota Camry, it was very black.
  21. Just watched this YouTube video about the co-development of the BMW Z4 and the Toyota Supra. Certainly preferred the tone of this video with a "factual/informed" approach to offset unsubstantiated statements/claims. Interesting the different manufacturer's approach and Toyota's engineers' emphasis upon durability and reliabilty. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jbyzmtgU_0
  22. Yes, that article does provide clarification on a number of points. https://www.goauto.com.au/future-models/toyota/86/new-generation-toyota-86-confirmed-for-oz/2019-02-05/77401.html
  23. Following search results on Gumtree and RedBook may be a good reference point. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-cars-vans-utes/fj60/k0c18320 https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/1984-toyota-landcruiser-sahara-manual-4x4/SPOT-ITM-278685/
  24. Yes, following URL explains why. https://mycardoeswhat.org/safety-features/blind-spot-monitor/
  25. Perhaps the attached document will be of interest to you. Personally, I am more into "stealth" mode these days; keep it ultra quiet and let the exhaust flow freely when you want that performance and acceleration. Remember quiet car, less police attention, maybe fewer tickets and less trips for machinery inspections to "prove" the exhaust is within the acceptable decibel range. Exhaust Back Pressure.doc