campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. No direct experience with your specific issue. Just thinking that it might be worthwhile to consider the outer cv joint on the left drive shaft as a potential possible cause. I have a preference/ tendency not to accelerate hard until the wheels are straight ahead to minimise the pressure on the cv joints. Many years ago, I test drove a fwd vehicle doing a fast U turn. Front left drive shaft became quite noisy after that turn so we returned the vehicle back to the wholesale yard and disappeared quickly. Good learning experience not to do that to your own vehicles.
  2. Just hearsay but nothing like a good guard dog as an effective deterrent. Otherwise, plenty of lighting with motion detectors and cameras that cannot be easily interfered with or disabled.
  3. Look at your Warranty and Service Book for details of the 150,000 km or 120 Month service. This service involves the following replacements: engine oil and filter; engine coolant; in-tank fuel filter and brake fluid.
  4. In your situation, I would be inclined to reset the ECU using the battery method mainly because I am DIY and not keen to poart with $$$ at a dealership. Recently, I have had the battery disconnected more than 30 minutes, hence the ECU would have reset but did not know about the extra steps to reset the idling as per the following YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKABYa-w0g8
  5. Welcome. You are in the right Forum for some good advice. I revel in the sleeper performance of the Aurion and prefer to keep a stock standard look. Prefer the police attention to be on the show off Holdens, Fords and hot hatches etc. I am very much into preventative maintenance and have a past tendency to over-service my Aurion ATX. The 2GR-FE engine is known to be prone to oil sludge so regular oil changes with qualiy oils are essential. Also pay attention to servicing the auto transmission and changing the ATF Best mod I have found is to have brand new known brand tyres and brake pads. Upgrading the rear sway bar is known to improve the handling and reduce body sway.
  6. campbeam

    Tyre issues

    Never had that experience. Always buy best quality well known brand tyres.
  7. If you have an owners manual look at Fuse Locations in the Index. It should be behind the glove box [on the passenger side] behind a flat unmarked plastic cover. Most likely you will have to remove the glovebox lid for easier access. Attached video is for a USA Camry just to give you an idea of the location area. Expect the cover to be just a flat plastic rectangle clip on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ7RHFTBj98
  8. Located Online Auto Parts and the same picture on eBay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Front-Rear-Gas-Strut-Shock-Absorbers-suits-Camry-ACV36R-MCV36R-2002-06-Sedan/401435796974?fits=Model%3ACamry&hash=item5d777025ee:g:yhIAAOSwyhVdyiEs
  9. This topic has been covered in earlier threads. You should be able to search this Forum. I have had better results doing a Google search with results for this Forum. Members have posted their various results. Changing viscosity of oil either higher or lower can produce a good outcome. It varies upon the condition of the engine. What works for one engine may not produce the same desired outcome in another. Sometimes a matter of trial and error. If ever I remove the valve cover, I will take the time to check the VVTi controller particularly that the bolts are nice and tightened.
  10. Agree with these thoughts. Not enough transmission fluid is going to cause problems. Exactly why I spent so much time learning how to get the fluid level correct for this sealed type transmission.
  11. Best to check Qld Transport website about minimum vehicle ground clearance. Unofficial guide would be the height of a Coke can. Remember noticing a motorcycle cop pulling over a lowered Holden ute and getting a measuring guide from the saddles of his motorbike. Just goes to show that they do have the means to readily check lowered vehicles.
  12. Could be a grounding issue. Just from reading some internet posts, I would be checking for any loose wires/poor connections. Something else to check is the battery cables especially both ends of the ground cable.
  13. Rear windscreen on my 2006 Aurion shattered last year. No obvious reason. Car was parked on the street and when I came home, most of the windscreen had shattered into small pieces. Internet searches indicated that it could be a flaw during glass manufacture involving impurities. In my case, I was using the rear demister quite a lot so this could have contributed to the weakening of the glass structure. Since replacing the rear windscreen, I now rarely use the demister. Time may tell whether I might have been right.
  14. If you get a leak then you are going to lose most of the engine oil onto the road very quickly, like a matter of a few minutes. If you notice the oil light come on, pull over immediately,turn the engine off and call for a tow to your nearest Toyota dealer.This quick action is what is going to save the engine. Late 2009 build engines on had the full metal oil cooler lines.
  15. Yes, still miss my SX Seca after 21 years. I ended up getting a manual Honda Prelude for my boys to get their manual licences then sold it before the timing belt needed to be changed. It will be hard to find a SX or RV Seca in decent condition.
  16. Appreciate the sharing of your personal experience and particularly noted that you are intending to revert back to stock standard.
  17. Starting point would be to identify where the burning smell is coming from. Check brake pads or an oil leak onto the exhaust. You mentioned about changing gears. Without more detail, I would be thinking about when the transmission oil was last changed and to check the oil level on both the transmission and the engine. How old are the spark plugs; check condition of spark plugs and whether they should be replaced.
  18. No direct experience but I was thinking either an upgrade to heavy duty springs or possibly an enhancement kit like the following: https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/RAS/RAS4529.html
  19. Same discharge has happened to the girlfriend's Yaris. No real explanation for what happens except that the electrical circuits are now live. Probably also does not help that the vehicle has a small sized battery.
  20. You would expect it to be fine but best to check anyway. Not really thinking that is an electrical problem but tracking down issues is usually a matter of elimination. Previously read a number of internet threads about various check light problems where the unexpected contributing factor has been a bad/low charge battery. Not a great fan of E10 fuel. If you have an OBDII scanner, then read for any stored error codes.
  21. There are multiple causes for the warning lights to come on. I would start with dealing with the known issues. Suggest spraying some electrical contact cleaner onto the lock button. Check the fuses especially for the indicators. You mentioned filling up with E10 and then this happened. Perhaps coincidence but maybe not. Suggest putting some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. Next time the fuel tank is low put in some methylated spirits [200mls??] to absorb any water. This tip was mentioned by another member in a different thread. Go back to regular unleaded. I would also check the battery and the engine oil level. How old is the battery and is it keeping its charge? Also consider whether the car is due for an oil and filter cartridge change.
  22. There are threads about this issue. Toyota Aurion Pull Left Issue.docx
  23. Following YouTube videos will show you how to get to the window regulator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeZxmC7L2n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nrkCcz64x8 You are then going to most likely have to remove/loosen the motor/regulator so you can then push the window up. You could also use some string to put tension on the window arms to help with pushing the window up
  24. When was the last time that the brake fluid was changed? Have you checked the condition of the brake rotors and pads?
  25. Last weekend error code P0505 reappeared after I revved the engine up to about 3000rpm. Not haapy, so all prpeared to dismantle and reassemble this weekend. Early morning shower on Saturday had me rethinking plans. Ended up tightening up a few accessible bolts on the inlet manifold and the wire clamps near the throttle body and air box. Cleared the code then retested a few times on Saturday and Sunday by revving engine up to .2000 and 3000 rpm then back to idle. No more CEL. Been a long time getting this project car sorted out so can now focus more upon preventative maintenance. Maybe another oil change. Another re-learning to check and retighten then test again before charging straight in and disassembling. Saved a lot of time and effort.