campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. I have fitted GE Megalight Ultra +130 H11 headlight bulbs and been using them for about 6 months, maybe longer. At first, they did not appear to be that much brighter but after about 2 weeks I thought that they were brighter. What I did notice was the increased light projection distance. Very noticable improvement when on high beam. https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/h11 If I had to replace my headlight bulbs, I would also be considering the OSRAM Night Breaker Unlimited H11 headlight bulbs which also come with a 12mth warranty. Something else that I have been reading up on is how restoring the headlight lenses results in more light on the road. It is on my to do list.
  2. Following YouTube video shows how to use the spill free funnel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hNEgD52MB0 I do not have one so I just used an ordinary funnel to fill the radiator until the coolant covered the radiator fins then just gently squeezed the radiator hoses a few times to air bleed the cooling system. I then fully filled the radiator, replaced the cap and then slighly overfilled the coolant overflow bottle. I then started the engine and checked that all appeared to be ok before driving as normal. Later, check the coolant level in the overflow bottle and top up, if required There is an air bleed port on the engine but I left it alone due to past experience of breaking one off on another vehicle. http://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-3-5l-v6-2gr-fe-coolant-bleeding-trick/
  3. Have a read of the following URLs: https://fueldoctors.com.au/product/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFR-JB-jizQ https://www.nulon.com.au/products/pro-strength-additives/diesel-fuel-system-extreme-clean?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr8-b7v-z4wIViB0rCh1K4woFEAAYBiAAEgIaR_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  4. Milo, it appears that you really want to make the effort to fully flush the cooling system so that all of the old coolant is replaced. As you have already mentioned, flushing the system a few times with distilled water would be an effective option. I would then go for a concentrated coolant making your own mixture also taking into account the amount of distilled water remaining in the cooling system. I use the Penrite concentrate which I previously bought on special. https://www.autobarn.com.au/nulon-red-long-life-coolant-5l-rll5 Something I have done for the last few years has been to remove the coolant overflow bottle and give it a good clean inside, annually. The coolant in the bottle was disposed of and replaced with a new mixture. I have recently drained the radiator as part of the process to replace the alternator, so it will be a while before I consider whether the overflow bottle needs a cleaning.
  5. Have a read of the following URLs: https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a91/1272436/ https://www.tectaloy.com.au/corrosion-inhibitor-concentrates
  6. Possibly warmer weather and use of silicone spray will reduce the risk as well as the usual softly softly approach.
  7. Hopedfully, you have a manual with the steps for the dash removal. Following URLs will give you an idea of the work invilved. http://www.corollaforum.com/threads/dashboard-rattling-fix.5579/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifpUdQGZEes Easiest outcome would be if there are retaining screws just need to be retightened and the dash repositioned. One can only hope until reality happens.
  8. If you want to tweak tyre sizes, following is a handy calculator. https://tiresize.com/calculator/
  9. My first thought is that the weather may have gotten colder in the last month. Just something to consider. Assuming that your vehicle has done less than 100,000Kms, I would expect that the spark plugs and coil packs are fine. . I use 91 unleaded petrol. I have also been putting fuel injector cleaner in the petrol tank but not recently. Probably better off using 95 octane or 98 octane petrol. I refuel usually around the 1/2 full mark and well before the 1/4 full mark. Just reckon [or is that unfounded wishful thinking] that it helps the fuel pump and filter with the fuel delivery. You also mentioned the oil light flashing on and off. I would be inclined to check the oil level and also consider whether an oil and filter cartridge change is due. Something to remember is that the 2GR-FE engine is more prone to oil sludging than some other modern engines. Use of quality engine oils and regular servicing is essential. Most of my driving is short distance urban so my engine is operating in prime time conditions for oil sludging. Consequently, I am doing oil and filter cartridge changes about every 2 months.
  10. Best to properly diagnose the issue before throwing parts and time and effort at it. Some YouTube videos will show how to release the tension on the serpentine belt. From there you can check out the amount of movement [if any] in the tensioner assembly and the pulley. YouTube videos will show how to repack a sealed bearing. I used Castrol LMM grease to repack both of the idler pulleys for the serpentine belt when I was replacing the alternator. If badly worn, the pulley will need to be replaced. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fits-TOYOTA-AURION-HV-GSV40-Idler-Tensioner-Drive-Belt-Bearing-Pulley/264099642698?epid=20027346004&hash=item3d7d90bd4a:g:tE0AAOSw1KRcHtYq&frcectupt=true Possible worst case scenario is that tensioner assembly will need to be replaced. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DAYCO-FOR-TOYOTA-RAV-4-KLUGER-AURION-TARAGO-2GRFE-DRIVE-BELT-TENSIONER-PULLEY/142477518529?fits=Model%3AAurion&hash=item212c5266c1:g:qCUAAOSwLs5XKDK-&frcectupt=true
  11. Plenty of different opinions in the following thread. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/54637-touring-tyres-that-do-not-compromise-handling/?tab=comments#comment-562289 Most important thing to notice is that only well known quality brands are being mentioned. My personal criteria is for a touring tyre with excellent braking performance in the wet. https://www.tyresales.com.au/search?search=vehicle&tyretype=passenger&brands=bridgestone%2Ccontinental%2Cdunlop%2Cgoodyear%2Chankook%2Ckumho%2Cmichelin%2Cpirelli%2Ctoyo%2Cyokohama&p=&year=2008&make=toyo&model=camry&series=auvtoyo2008aeas&size=215-60r16_95v&sortby=pricelowhigh Never be tempted to put budget priced tyres on your vehicle.
  12. Following YouTube video URL may be applicable. I have just looked at the opening and some of the comments. Hope this is of some assistance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbPCbuzaG4o
  13. Time to share my latest experience and learnings. I have a standby replacement vehicle 2008 Aurion Prodigy sitting in the back yard. Some weeks ago, It threw the P0328 error code and I suspected that a rodent could have been nesting in the valley of the engine. Posts on the US Toyota Nation forum indicates that this is an often occurence of the wires being eaten by rodents/pests. I did think that it might be a good idea to dismantle first before buying parts but did not do it. I was hoping that it was only the sensor gone bad so bought replacement [non-genuine] sensors before dismantling the engine. Only way to get to the sensors on the Aurion engine is to remove the lower intake manifold. I also took extra care and attention using rags to block off intake ports so nothing dropped down into the piston combustion chambers. Also used grease on the end of the allen key when removing the bolts to save time finding a dropped bolt. Finally discovered that both wires on one sensor were broken off plus chewing and the wiring on the other knock sensor had also been chewed. Next step was to remove the wiring harness and check the part number tag, These knock sensor connectors are not easy to get off. Ended up using a screwdriver to push the locking tab into the removal/open position and another screwdriver to lever the connector off the sensor. Next setback was that the wiring harness part number tag was faded and illegible. I found the Rock Auto website to be more user friendly than Amayama website catalog to locate the correct part numbers 82219-06010 and 82219-41010. Part ordered on the Amayama website and awaiting approval with delivery in about 2 weeks. The re-assembly fun can then begin. At this stage I am inclined to leave the original knock sensors and just replace the wiring harness. Interesting the amount of oil residue in the manifold and on the stems of the fuel injectors. Another learning is that the metal gasket edges are knife like sharp so a bit of blood and some verbal blessings over the manifold has been added to the DIY experience. Not wearing gloves has benefits and also costs. Biggest learning is that I should have taken more preventative actions to keep the rodents away.
  14. A while ago, I bought a C-TEK charger [Repco Special] and have been using it to charge and rejuvenate a number of batteries. I was going to delay buying a new battery but AutoBarn put out a 2 day deal 30% off Century Batteries ending today 22nd June. My existing Century Battery model 75D23L MF [CCA 620] is still going strong after more than 2 years. Ended up buying the Century Battery model NS70L NF [CCA 660 and RF 140] @ $160.30 which fitted into the battery tray easily.
  15. I previously watched some YouTube videos about repacking sealed bearings. . When I recently replaced the alternator, I took the opportunity to repack both of the idler pullrys. Interestly, it was the upper idler pulley underneath the thermostat housing that was in more need of having to be regreased. Instead of a pick, I used a precision screwdriver with the smallest flat blade plus some silicon spray to help the process. I also used Castrol LMM grease, pushing the grease in with my finger plus also grease on the inside of the seal which then helps to push more grease into the bearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf_sttobyyY
  16. RDA rotors is a good choice. However, I bought the following front rotors on eBay but have yet to fit them. I also bought the rear rotors too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-VMAXS-fits-TOYOTA-Aurion-GSV40R-2006-Onwards-FRONT-Disc-Brake-Rotors/122678193968 I also use the Bendix Ultra Premium pads [proven product] but the General purpose will also suit my driving requirements. I drive smart so trying to avoid any unnecessary hard braking and most of my driving is essentially urban. However, I do an annual interstate open highway trip so my vehicle is set up for an emergency hard braking. Long past experience was having to do a hard brake from 100kph down to a standstill to avoid a head on collision. Still remember the cloud of tyre smoke drifting by after becoming stationery. Also do not overlook having good quality brand name tyres to enhance braking performance and safety.
  17. Have a look at this eBay listing for the part number. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-AURION-ALTERNATOR-3-5-2GR-FE-2008/333111502525?hash=item4d8efe26bd:g:8LUAAOSw2hhchdBK&frcectupt=true It is a time consuming task to replace the Aurion alternator so my recommendation is to buy a best quality new alternator.
  18. Much like yourself, my Aurion is also my first V6 and first sportsmatic transmission, Absolutely love the acceleration on the open highway when overtaking. Aurion cruises very nicely all day. Nice to know the engine outputs 200KW and quite amusing [to me] to watch all those cars with 4 cylinder engines being worked hard to show off. I prefer a stealthy whisper quiet sounding exhaust so also amusing to be beside a vehicle with a loud exhaust and to be well ahead of them from a standing start with just normal acceleration.
  19. Ryan, the V6 2GR-FE engine fitted to the Kluger and Aurion has a timing chain. Engine should be good for 400K before any serious work is required.. However, this engine is more prone to engine sludge than other modern engines so regular oil and filter changes are essential. Recently, I replaced the alternator on my 2007 Aurion with 207,500 kms on the odometer. As [slow moving] DIY, it took me approx. 4 hours to remove alternator then 3 hours to fit the new one. Approx, 200K, I had to replace the rear VVTi oil line when the rubber hose mid-section sprung a leak fortunately early Saturday morning and I already had the parts. This was replaced with a full metal line and took me lots of hours.
  20. I use RedBook and Australian Car Review as preliminary guides. It has the 6 speed sportsmatic automatic transmission which I absolutely love in my Aurion. Being very much conservative and traditional, I am avoiding CVT in used vehicles. Howver, the latest CVT with a fixed 1st gear in the 2019 Corolla has got my attention.as the next stage of evolution. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2014-toyota-camry-altise-auto/SPOT-ITM-402309/ http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Toyota&model=Camry&gen=888
  21. Craig, I think that you will find that because your 07 Aurion is more than 10 years old that Toyota Australia will not accept a claim to replace the dash. However, your situation may be treated differently particularly if this dash issue had previously been reported for your vehicle by previous owner/s.
  22. Rear brake pad dimensions are very different. You would be best advised to remove a rear wheel and visually inspect the brake pads to determine which one is going to fit your vehicle.
  23. I usually use RedBook for specifications. Instead of VIN series it does have the engine code 2ZZ-GE for your vehicle https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2005-toyota-corolla-sportivo-manual/SPOT-ITM-281798/
  24. I have just replaced the alternator in my Toyota Aurion. In hindsight, I should have checked the alternator output with a multimeter especially when I was thinking that the headlights were not as bright as before. Maybe your alternator has an intermittent fault to not be working the best when under load.