campbeam

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Posts posted by campbeam


  1. This topic has been covered in earlier threads. You should be able to search this Forum.

    I have had better results doing a Google search with results for this Forum.

    Members have posted their various results. Changing viscosity of oil either higher or lower can produce a good outcome. It varies upon the condition of the engine. What works for one engine may not produce the same desired outcome in another. Sometimes a matter of trial and error.

    If ever I remove the valve cover, I will take the time to check the VVTi controller particularly that the bolts are nice and tightened.


  2. On 11/12/2019 at 6:28 PM, matt36415 said:

    More likely than a problem with the type of fluid is that they may not have filled it to the right level.

    Agree with these thoughts. Not enough transmission fluid is going to cause problems. Exactly why I spent so much time learning how to get the fluid level correct for this sealed type transmission.

    • Like 1

  3. Best to check Qld Transport website about minimum vehicle ground clearance. Unofficial guide would be the height of a Coke can.

    Remember noticing a motorcycle cop pulling over a lowered Holden ute and getting a measuring guide from the saddles of his motorbike. Just goes to show that they do have the means to readily check lowered vehicles.

    • Like 1

  4. Rear windscreen on my 2006 Aurion shattered last year. No obvious reason. Car was parked on the street and when I came home, most of the windscreen had shattered into small pieces. Internet searches indicated that it could be a flaw during glass manufacture involving impurities.

    In my case, I was using the rear demister quite a lot so this could have contributed to the weakening of the glass structure. Since replacing the rear windscreen, I now rarely use the demister. Time may tell whether I might have been right.


  5. 1 hour ago, Blindsniper213 said:

    I notice a burn smell and when I got of the highway I try changing g gears but nothing would happen, the car accelerates very slowly without changing gears.

    Starting point would be to identify where the burning smell is coming from. Check brake pads or an oil leak onto the exhaust.

    You mentioned about changing gears. Without more detail, I would be thinking about when the transmission oil was last changed and to check the oil level on both the transmission and the engine.

    How old are the spark plugs; check condition of spark plugs and whether they should be replaced.


  6. 1 hour ago, Jo2007aurion said:

    I jist replaced the battery a few months ago.

    You would expect it to be fine but best to check anyway. Not really thinking that is an electrical problem but tracking down issues is usually a matter of elimination. Previously read a number of internet threads about various check light problems where the unexpected contributing factor has been a bad/low charge battery.

    Not a great fan of E10 fuel.

    If you have an OBDII scanner, then read for any stored error codes.


  7. There are multiple causes for the warning lights to come on. I would start with dealing with the known issues.

    Suggest spraying some electrical contact cleaner onto the lock button. Check the fuses especially for the indicators. 

    You mentioned filling up with E10 and then this happened. Perhaps coincidence but maybe not. Suggest putting some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. Next time the fuel tank is low put in some methylated spirits [200mls??] to absorb any water. This tip was mentioned by another member in a different thread. Go back to regular unleaded.

    I would also check the battery and the engine oil level. How old is the battery and is it keeping its charge?

    Also consider whether the car is due for an oil and filter cartridge change.


  8. Last weekend error code P0505 reappeared after I revved the engine up to about 3000rpm. Not haapy, so all prpeared to dismantle and reassemble this weekend.

    Early morning shower on Saturday had me rethinking plans. Ended up tightening up a few accessible bolts on the inlet manifold and the wire clamps near the throttle body and air box. Cleared the code then retested a few times on Saturday and Sunday by revving engine up to .2000 and 3000 rpm then back to idle. No more CEL.

    Been a long time getting this project car sorted out so can now focus more upon preventative maintenance. Maybe another oil change.

    Another re-learning to check and retighten then test again before charging straight in and disassembling. Saved a lot of time and effort.

    • Like 1

  9. U660E Transmission Filter Replacement.doc

    14 minutes ago, ILOVEMYCAR said:

    He suggested that the forward happening in a hill could indicate more that the oil is low because its draining out when I’m uphill when it’s cold

    Totally agree with your mechanic. I had the same experience until I got the level in the transmission correct.

    I have attached some documents that your mechanic may find useful.

    It took me a few reads of the Technical Bulletin to finally notice and action the line on the last page about adding 200mls of ATF after the fluid flow has stopped then install the refill plug.

    U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc How to to service the Toyota 6 speed Transmission.doc


  10. Your transmission has just given you a big wake up call that it needs to be serviced. The automatic transmission fluid [ATF] needs to be changed. Best to drop the transmission pan to clean off the accumulated sludge and replace the transmission filter/strainer. Alternatively you could just replace the fluid in the transmission pan a few times.

    About 4 years ago at 165,000kms, I removed the transmission pan and replaced the transmission filter/strainer. Lots of sludge on the bottom of the pan. Since then, I have replaced the ATF in the transmission pan about every 6 months. I will have to check my records. Odometer reading just turned 210,000kms so planning upon replacing the ATF in the near future. Gear changes are smooth and unnoticable. I am DIY and have a tendency to over-service my vehicles and a great believer in preventative maintenance. $50 spent on ATF changes is a lot cheaper and easier than having to repair/replace a transmission.

    If you want your transmission to last, then service it and drive smoothly. . 


  11. After weeks of procrastination, reassembly done yesterday morning and engine started, initially at 2000rpm. Running ok but idle was still a bit higher at 1000rpm which I put down to charging of an older battery which I have been reconditioning. Restarted the engine in the afternoon and later noticed a check engine light [CEL].

    Error code P0505 had me thinking it was a vacum leak or the throttle body needed a thorough cleaning. After checking for vacum leaks, I replaced the battery and sprayed cleaner into the air intake. No CEL and idle is about 900rpm. Something to keep an eye on and further investigate if the idle does not settle down to a lower level.

    • Thanks 1

  12. 8 hours ago, 2015AurionPresara said:

    I’m not happy they want to replace with a refurbished one as I feel it’s safety issue that runs the whole car. It’s out of new car warranty but paid a extended dealer warranty so they will cover for a refurbished one.

    I do not follow your reasoning. If you think that the underlying cause is an electrical fault that could cause a fire then that is a very different matter. A refurbished unit should have been fully tested and guaranteed, Looks like the extended dealer warranty was a good choice.