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campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. Copied from the following URL https://repairpal.com/my-car-sterring-vibrates-in-high-speed-849 This could be many things, there is not one simple answer. First thing is figure out if the vibration is wheel/rim based, or suspension based. The easiest thing to do would be to rotate your tires (front to back) one at a time, then take a highway drive. Tire/rim damage becomes far less pronounced when the wheel is in the rear. If the problem clears up, you know the problem is wheel/rim based, and which wheel it is as well. You either have a bad tire, a bent rim, or need your wheel balanced. If the problem does not clear up, things get more complex. While you have your car jacked up, but your hands at 12 and 6 on the tire and rock back and forth. If the tire rocks, you need new wheel bearings asap. If you car clicks when you make sharp turns, it is the CV joint, but you could still get a vibration from a bad joint before you hear clicks. It could be a bent hub. A mechanic will have to do the hub or bearing job, as it requires special tools on your car. It's also expensive (several hundred). Check the front wheel alignment. From there on out, suspension components such as control arms and rods, or pehaps drive axles may be damaged. Your car may have previously been in an accident and time made the damage more pronounced.
  2. Keep saving and be on the lookout for buying opportunities e.g. clearance/liquidation sale. This was how I managed to buy on eBay both front and rear struts for my Nissan Pulsar project a few years ago. As I recall, they were ""old"" stock, new Monroe GT but on the shelf for about 12 months and got them about half-price. Since then, i have not seen that buying opportunity repeated.
  3. Lower ball joint should be dry/dusty on the outside. Grease is inside the rubber boot to lubricate the actual ball joint. If the boot is damaged then it is going to leak some grease and dirt gets in to ruin the joint.
  4. Back to the mechanic. Good possibility that the seal on the oil filter cartridge housing has not been properly fitted causing it to leak. Another suspect might be the oil pressure switch leaking. Best to check the oil level.
  5. Good to see that you have already tracked one down. I think RRP is about $155. Hope you were able to get a 20-25% discount. Looks like the cold weather gremlins may have killed another battery.
  6. Recommended battery for the Camry/Aurion is Century Battery model 55D23L MF [CCA 540] I recently bought for my Aurion the larger size and capacity Century Battery model 75D23L MF [CCA 620] when it was on special at SuperCheap. It is the recommended battery for the Kluger. Personally, I have not noticed any difference in the cranking and ease of engine start. Aurion Battery.docx
  7. That ball joint on the lower control arm also looks suspect. Maybe needs more attention than a wipe down.
  8. 8mm is the minimum thickness of the solid rear rotor. Maximum diameter of 171 mm refers to internal hat diameter of the rotor used by the handbrake shoe. Best to measure your rotor to confirm that the diameter is 291mm. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Disc-Brake-Rotors-suits-Toyota-Avalon-MCX10R-MCX10-MCV36R-RDA7771-PAIR-/112436469490?hash=item1a2dbc5ef2:g:E4EAAOSwq~tZOiDr http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Avalon-MCX10R-170mm-7-1999-8-2003-REAR-DISC-BRAKE-ROTORS-RDA7771-PAIR-/291402599899?hash=item43d8f2cddb:g:b5YAAOSw6ShZXllc http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-DBA-Standard-Rotor-DBA757-/281864703513?hash=item41a0720e19:g:bn0AAOSwJrpZcfmj
  9. I use Redbook for vehicle spefication details and Australian Car Review for problem and recall details. http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Toyota&model=Landcruiser Prado&gen=908
  10. Look at eBay. There was a recent post selling Toyota Camry head units removed from new fleet cars in Melbourne for $40 plus postage [as I recall]. Also with Pandora becoming unavailable in Australia, there goes a possible selling feature.
  11. Personally, I would not be too concerned if it only light scoring on the disc. Rightly or wrongly, I have not bothered with machining rotors and just replaced brake pads. It is most likely because I am gentle on my brakes, drive defensively with extra braking distance so any hard braking is an exception. I would definitely recommend measuring the thickness of the rotor then make the decision whether to replace them. Perhaps you will be surprised how little they have worn. For quite some time, I have been researching replacement rotors for the Aurion. OEM rotors are quite acceptable for my driving needs but more likely to go to a slotted rotor for presumably extra braking performance. RDA slotted rotors are more attractively priced on eBay than DBA.
  12. My pick for brake pads is Bendix Ultimate. Bendix claim that they have a shorter braking distance [presumably compared to their other series]. https://www.bendix.com.au/content/bendix-brakes-ultimate-0
  13. As you saud, there are different sizes. Noticed 286mm and 291mm looking at eBay listings. Remove a rear wheel. If you are lucky, the size may be stamped on the rotor hub. If not, the only way [that i know] to get an accurate measurement will be to remove the rotor. Otherwise, take your vehicle and wallet to a mechanic or brake shop.
  14. Keep recording and remove any variables. Maybe a bit more settling in will occur. A main variable is going to be the weight of the car. Bit of a difference between a full fuel tank and an empty one. In my case, I have a bootful of tools etc. When the boot is empty, rear ride height goes up noticably.
  15. When you clean the throttle body [thoroughly] then you will most likely see all that sticky black carbon build up which can potentially affect the throttle opening. If you look at some YouTube videos, then you will see what I am talking about. On my 1998 camry with the throttle cable, you could tell when the throttle was sticking due to this carbon build up. After cleaning, the accelerator pedal was so much smoother to operate..
  16. OK. Best make that checking/cleaning the throttle Position Sensor which is attached to the throttle body. Did a Google search with the terms "toyota throttle position sensor problems" which indicated sudden idle surges as a symptom of a faulty throttle position sensor. ANother post pointed to carbon build up [I am presuming in the throttle body].
  17. Difficult to track down an intermittent problem like your engine surging when parking. My immediate thoughts were the intake system, anything that could impact upon the engine idling. Have you cleaned the throttle body, the idle control valve and the mass airflow sensor? I would also be checking/lubricating the throttle cable. Also no harm in putting in some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank. At least, these are all good maintenance items.
  18. Like yourself, I have good mechanical skills but not so with electrics and electronics. Rather than pay SuperCheap $15 or $18 to read the error code/s, I bought a cheap OBD2 scanner tool on eBay; different model to this one on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OBD2-Scanner-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-New-MaxiScan-Autel-Car-Diagnostic-Tool-AU-/252955082954?hash=item3ae54c40ca:g:HhQAAOSwcB5ZJVAS The On Board Diagnostics [OBD] port is easily located on the driver's side under the dash of your Aurion; right hand side of the steering wheel. Regular use and doing Google searches of any error codes certainly is a great help to diagnose issues.
  19. Been a long time since driving on a dirt road. Got younger day memories of hitting the brakes and fortunately sliding my Honda Civic around a cow lying down in the middle of the road. Take your time and slow down. If there are ruts in the road, I drove so the wheels are either side so there is a smoother ride. If you come to any cattle grids, slow down lots, especially if there is a bend shortly after.
  20. With a limited budget [very much like myself] you are best to concentrate on the basics of having good shock absorbers/struts, brake rotors and brake pads etc.before proceeding further. Makes sense not to spend limited funds on modifications when your tyres or shocks need to be replaced. Having said that, I have found eBay prices for King Springs to be quite competetive. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/King-Springs-Suspension-Lowered-Front-and-Rear-Kit-KTFL105-KTRL106-/162438009698?hash=item25d20f5362:g:KO0AAOSwuxFYv0uh http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50MM-Super-Low-F-R-King-Coil-Springs-For-TOYOTA-COROLLA-ZZE122-12-01-ON-/232018481572?epid=24003592895&hash=item36056111a4:g:kqwAAOSwPK1ZUl~i It can pay off to wait and keep looking and saving. Just in case you find someone who is selling their coilovers because they are returning their vehicle back to stock for reselling purposes. Personally, I have not seen any '"ättractively priced" used coilovers.
  21. I would be looking in Gumtree and eBay. Facebook search may turn up some worthwhile results. If you want better hard cornering performance then this eBay listing may be of interest. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Corolla-01-12-Celica-00-05-Ultra-Racing-Front-Lower-Brace-Bar-/282495564624?hash=item41c60c3b50:g:8s0AAOSwZVlXtVjL&vxp=mtr
  22. One way to check the size of the rotors is to remove a wheel and use a wooden ruler to measure the diameter. You should be able to readily determine whether it is 255mm or 275mm. If you want to be pedantically accurate, then you will have to remove the existing rotor and measure the back. Yesterday, I had a look at some DBA vs RDA rotor reviews in different forums. Posts were quite divided and nothing conclusive. I have fitted slotted DBA front rotors to my 1998 Camry and was a bit surprised at the amount of wear after only 7,000 kms. I am sure that I fitted Bendix Ultimate brake pads and I am quite light on the brakes. Anyway, I recently bought DBA front rotors for a Yaris with 195,000kms only to find that the current rotors [rusted on the outer rim] have hardly worn [21.5mm thickness vs 22mm new]. However brake pads are fairly worn down but probably have another 6mths life. My thoughts are that rotor wear is dependent upon quality, type of brake pad and driving style/requirements.
  23. Mainly for the benefit of other members, I previously read an internet post by a USA mechanic who highly recommended using brake fluid for hard to remove oxygen sensors. Worked a treat for me. Also discovered that my 24mm ring spanner could fit over the connector and that it was worthwhile buying a set of 3 O2 sensor removal sockets. Located this URL https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12380/how-to-unscrew-loosen-stuck-o2-sensor
  24. I was referring to the air/fuel sensors which are located on the exhaust system before the catalytic convertor. Following URLs contain some useful information. http://densoautoparts.com/sites/default/files/tech-tips/DENSO O2 Sensor troubleshooting tips.pdf http://www.counterman.com/technical-forum-when-should-an-oxygen-sensor-be-replaced/ http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92264/Easy-air-fuel-and-oxygen-sensor-diagnosis?Page=1
  25. Probably best to contact an auto electrician. Very few members would have done a LED headlight conversion because they are not road legal. There are a few threads in the Camry and Aurion Forums where members have asked about LED headlights and been advised not to proceed. Better option [in my opinion] is to fit high performance halogen bulbs. An extra would be a LED lightbar wired into the high beam. Personally, I have the Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited series under consideration for when i need to replace my headlight bulbs. https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/brand/osram/fitting/h4-472
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