campbeam

Those existing pictures already show that the existing V shaped brace is structural to stiffen the body. You can see that it can be unbolted. It looks like it should be possible to construct a straight brace. Following link shows an additional brace. https://ultraracingaustralia.com.au/product/t-camry-aurion-acv40rgsv40r-07-11-rear-bar-4-point/ I think that you would be better served to go visit a few local auto recycling yards particularly looking at Camrys. If you want full boot access then the rear seat will need to fold down. I have noticed on YouTube videos that USA Camrys [or some models] have the folding rear seats.

This eBay listing by an auto recycler for a used bonnet is $220 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/203555643513?hash=item2f64dca079:g:tnQAAOSwBDthEpdN Your cheapest option would be to contact a wrecker's hotline and try to get one with the same paint code as your Aurion. It will be interesting to see some pictures of your damaged bonnet and whether it looks to be repairable. Being somewhat frugal [financial tight *****], I would be thinking of removing the bonnet, putting it on the lawn and stepping on the damaged area or using a rubber hammer to try and pop out most of the gouged/depressed area.

Similar to KAA, I have banned myself from SCA, AutoBarn and Repco but previously got drawn into multiple specials that were just too good to resist. Resistance level has now increased after having quite a few years supply on hand. 40% discount off the Shell Engine Oils appears to be good but I am sure that the RRP has increased since I last bought them on special.

My major concern is the level of corruption, cost cutting and lack of ethics particularly where CCP members are involved in State run businesses. I would not be surprised if the 1st batch of production was specifically manufactured to specification to get the required ANCAP rating. Later production is then subject to cost cutting measures. End result is reflected in that legal judgement [refer initial post] essentially stating the inferior manufacturing quality making the product unfit for purpose.

Not so bad really mainly because I had viewed a few YouTube video before as part of the preparation. I also referred to it on the day as there was one hidden away bolt that needed to be removed. I am working on the 2GR-FE engine so there would be similarities in working space. I had to remove the radiator shroud and fan assembly to have enough room to remove the alternator. If you are really pedantic [not me], then maybe a good idea to also remove the radiator. I took most of a day but also checked and re-greased the idler pulleys. I expect that others should be able to do it within a morning but I move at my own leisurely pace. Ended up being good preparation for replacing the water pump [about 9 months later] and that took me a day and a half.

I was not sure whether it was the alternator pulley or the actual alternator that needed to be replaced. Decided that the best option was to replace with a complete unit and the issue would be resolved.

I remember that the earlier models of the Great Wall utes folded up like a pack of cards in an accident. Quickly written off and I am not sure how well the occupants fared. In my opinion, the true crash worthiness of a vehicle is when you can open the door afterwards and walk away uninjured. Also the faster the speed with the resultant greater forces involved, risk of injury increases greatly. Read recently an internet headline that the old do not acquire wisdom but instead they make safer decisions.

While you await a reply from actual Avalon owners, I replaced the alternator in my Oct. 2006 Aurion in March 2019 after 207,500 kms. Original starter motor is still fitted. Personally, I would not bother replacing them until they actually started to give issues. Depending upon your perspective about future availability of these parts and long term ownership, it may be worthwhile acquiring spares at the right price.

"All that glitters is not gold". I have seen a few LDV vans on the road and they look good because they are relatively new. True test will be how many are still on the road after 10+ years. Previous experience in my younger and not so smart days with a Fiat made me realise that I value a vehicle that is reliable, bits not falling off, electrics not working etc. Precisely why I bought Toyota when Honda got too expensive for my wallet. Also ready availability of parts is a big factor especially when you are DIY

Bet he will be glad when that LDV goes around a corner never to return.

It is your own experience with your own vehicle that really matters. Happy days going forward so you can keep the oil change interval in that golden brown colour range

Only laughing because I know how annoying and frustrating it would be for your mate to be having a leaking windscreen. Not a good sign for a relatively new vehicle. I know what my reaction is when I get drips of water on me while sitting on the bus to and from work. At least I can change seats.

Oil being quite black in colour is a sign of high level of contamination and overdue for a change. Hopefully time and weather will provide you with an earlier opportunity for the next oil change.

It is all about the Corporate Culture, attitudes and mindset. I was quite surprised about Mazda so I am sure that the Japanese Head Office will want a full explanation for this reputation harm. Good to see that arrogance to deny consumers their legal rights is being punished. Thinking about the experiences of that previous LDV owner highlights their business strategy. Sell the car cheap to get the foot in the door then beat up the buyer with exhorbitant replacement part prices. My follow on line of thinking was insurance. It could be cheaper to write off vehicles than repair them just because of the parts prices. With enough claims experience, I would expect insurance premiums to be higher.

Dropped into the local tavern to watch the last 21 laps of today's Great Race. Ended up chatting with a retired mechanic who mentioned that he had an LDV van when he was doing some UBER work. He said that the brake rotors lasted about 10,000 kms before they warped and cost a $1000 each to replace. Replacement headlight was $1800. Vehicles may be cheap to buy but you get stung by the cost of replacement parts. Engine had a 100,000 km warranty and it failed at 99,500kms. Engine replacement cost, fortunately covered by warranty was $18000. He traded that vehicle in as soon as he got the repaired LDV back. Just happened to stumble this video by our good mate John. It got me wondering whether the ACCC had got a voluntary signing from LDV. Looks like LDV does not have the monopoly of dumb attitude towards Australian Consumer Law.

You are using decent quality fuel so maybe no definite need to use a fuel injector cleaner. 6000kms is decent mileage in a 2 month period so not that surprised the mechanic's feedback was that the oil was dirty and filter was filthy [presumably plenty of accumulated oil sludge particles]. I am thinking that the engine oil is at operating temperature for a decent period of time and the detergent additives have been working to reduce any accumulated oil sludge Looks like you got the oil change done at 146K on the odometer. Consider getting the next oil change at 150K and get the mechanic to show you the condition of the oil filter cartridge.

Can you provide some background information as to when this replacement was done. I am just being skecptical that a dealer is going to do an out of warranty $500 repair for no charge. Always happy to be proved wrong.

I was uncertain whether the existing headlights would be suitable to fit the HID bulbs and I was not interested in changing headlights. I was looking for a direct replacement/upgrade to the OEM halogen headlight bulb. No conversion kits just a straight forward plug n play design. Also ease of fitting without having to do modifications or the risk of damaging the bulb during the fitting process. LED interests me because of electrical efficiency i.e. less watts and higher light output. There has been LED design improvements in recent years to achieve that plug n play design result.

The 2GR-FE engine has a known tendency for oil sludge. Regular oil changes are essential. Best to use a quality brand full synthetic engine oil and a shorter oil change interval e.g. 5000 kms How many kms have you driven [since owning the car] and what is the current odometer reading? Since buying the Aurion presumably from a Toyota dealership, do you have any used car warranty? What fuel have you been using? A member also mentioned in a recent post about using Nulon fuel injector cleaner. I would also consider another oil change in 5000 kms or earlier if the colour of the oil on the dipstick is starting to look black. At the moment, the oil colour on the dipstick will be clear. Expect it to turn to a light golden colour and gradually over time become a darker golden colour.

Just remember that it was 2 sets with only 1 bulb of 4 lasting so far. A 25% success rate is not worth recommending. Final straw was that last replacement bulb only lasting 1 week. Along with that $70-$80 outlay comes a lot of frustration having to change bulbs and reset the radio stations. Also one of my pet dislikes is cars with only 1 headlight working. Add in the extra risk of potentially hitting something or someone with the passenger headlight not working then you have to question whether it is worth it. The STEDI LED bulbs also arrived within 1 week [standard postage] whereas anything coming from China these days is at the end of a slow supply chain.

It was a different chinese eBay seller that eventually ghosted me. Got given the run around to make and post a video etc. I reckon that it was just delaying tactics so I would not request a PayPal refund. Driver's side LED bulb was fitted 04.07.2020 so has lasted 17 months so far. When it fails, then I will fit the other STEDI LED bulb.

That specific design of the chinese LED headlight bulb and the STEDI LED for projector headlights performed much better than OEM halogen bulbs. They also outperform the high performance halogen bulbs that I have used in the past. I have had mixed results with using the chinese LED bulbs. 2 have lasted 7 months and the last 1 only lasted about 1 week. Only 1 bulb has lasted the test of time, so far. Those chinese bulbs also came with a 5 year warranty. After being given delaying tactics from another eBay chinese seller and then ghosted, I have not bothered wasting my time. The precise reason why I have dug deeper into my wallet and bought the STEDI bulbs. I am expecting a quality product that is going to last more than 2 years. My last set of high performance halogen bulbs lasted 2 years. Overall, I am quite enthusiastic about upgrading to the LED headlight bulbs which are essentially a direct swap and require no modifications. I did not have to adjust the headlights. Same light pattern. I understand that with some other brands of LED bulbs they have an option to adjust the positioning of the bulb. Something that I have not yet done is to give the headlights a good clean.

Finally, fitted the STEDI LED bulb to the front passenger headlight. I ended up removing the car battery to have that bit of extra room to fit the bulb. At least I do know that it is correctly fitted. What was surprising is that there is no great difference in light output between the chinese LED bulb and the STEDI one. However, the STEDI design is different and has a high rpm cooling fan. Certainly expecting the STEDI bulb to outlast the warranty period. Definitely a big improvement over a OEM halogen bulb so quite handy in the recent rainy overcast weather.

When it comes to oil leaks, the 2GR-FE has 2 known issues. To my knowledge, Toyota has never issued a recall for either of these issues. First issue is the rubber hose mid-section in the rear VVTi oil line. Sometime around 2008, Toyota issued a Service Bulletin to initially replace that rubber hose with a higher specification hose. Later a full metal oil line was made available for this repair. Aurions manufactured from August [?] 2009 had this full metal oil line. I understand that only those Toyotas that had the higher specification hose fail at a later date were covered again and the full metal oil line was then used. From personal experience, a pin hole leak results in a significant oil leak. Replacement of that rear VVTi oil line is quite time consuming so a $500 repair bill can be expected. Quite some time ago, I phoned Toyota and confirmed that the replacement of the original rear VVTi oil line was at the customer's expense. However, Toyota did meet the cost to replace any leaking oil cooler hoses. These are located near the oil filter cartridge housing. However, the affected vehicles are now older than 12 years so best to confirm with Toyota or the dealer that this work will be paid by Toyota Australia.

Best trick and tip is to service your vehicle according to your driving conditions. Time and distance are guides. I regularly check the oil level and colour of the oil on the dipstick. My preference is to change the oil before it changes colour from a dark golden colour to a black colour which indicates to me that the oil is starting to get a high level of contaminants.