campbeam
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Posts posted by campbeam
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Posted 22nd June 2022 pictures of the oil sludge in the valve train and the cleaned front valve cover of my 2GR-FE engine. Thinking of removing the valve cover after Boxing Day to check to see whether the valve train and valve cover are now a lot cleaner after 18 months.
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I think you will find that the PCV valve needs to be cleaned or replaced, at the very least. I am also expecting that the engine has lots of oil sludge due to inadequate oil changes etc. Quick test is to temporarily remove the PCV valve from the valve cover. Leave the PCV valve still connected to the vacuum hose but block it by wrapping some tape around the end. Expect white smoke on this initial start up due to oil vapour having been previously sucked into the intake. There should be no white smoke after this 1st start up.
Strongly recommend removing the valve cover and giving it a thorough clean especially the channel drain area around the PCV opening. I would not be surprised if you also find plenty of oil sludge accumulated in the camshafts and valves. Remove/scrape off as much of this oil sludge as possible. Assuming that the engine oil is well used, drain and replace with approx. 5-6 litres of diesel fuel to help flush any loose oil sludge. Idle engine for approx. 10 minutes. Drain and repeat the flushing with another lot of new diesel. Advantage of this approach instead of a commercial flush product is that it reduces the risk of the oil pick up getting clogged. Finally time for a new oil filter cartridge and new engine oil.
Plan upon doing another oil and filter change in say 1000 kms. Then next one at say 2000 kms or when the oil colour becomes darker before becoming black. Eventually work towards an oil change interval of 6 months/5000 kms whichever comes 1st.
Using the above approach, I did not remove the engine oil pan.
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8 hours ago, TRD_Aurion said:
using diesel as a flush. Is this diesel fuel or oil designed for Diesel engines? Do you completely empty the engine and refill with 6 litres of diesel?
I use diesel fuel as a flush. I drain the engine oil [including the oil filter cartridge] and refill with 5-6 litres of diesel then idle engine for approx. 10 minutes. Surprising how dirty that diesel will become after cleaning the engine internals. Drain the diesel. If you want to be OCD etc, do another flush with either diesel or a cheap engine oil.
Drain and refill with a quality known brand full synthetic oil and a new oil filter cartridge.
Payoff for this extra time and effort is that you know that all of the previous used oil has been removed so not immediately contaminating the new oil.
Stay with the old school approach and change your oil more often.
With turbo or supercharged engines, be very aware that the engine oil additives take a pounding so quality oil selection and oil change interval are highly important.
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23 minutes ago, TRD_Aurion said:
im not sure how ‘sludgey’ my engine is, but can see a lot of varnish when looking through oil fill hole.
A decent indicator is the amount of sludge particles caught in the element of the oil filter cartridge. A further indicator is the amount of sludge particles in the bottom of the oil drain pan.
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In my stash of products I had previously located a bottle of the Penrite Engine Flush so decided to use it for the engine oil change on the weekend. Odometer reading was 256,415 Kms and last oil change was 01.10.2023 for a road trip 10.10.2023 of 2500+ Kms.
Used engine oil [at operating temperature] and filter cartridge was replaced with a flushing oil and a cleaned used filter cartridge. The engine was idled for 10 minutes. This flushing oil and filter cartridge were then replaced with new cheap engine oil, the Penrite Engine Flush product and another cleaned used filter cartridge. Engine was idled again for 10 minutes. After this engine oil was emptied and a new oil filter cartridge fitted, I then poured more new cheap oil to help flush out any residual oil. Finally filled the engine with new quality full synthetic oil.
Photo shows 1. the used engine oil [done 3700 kms] 2. oil after the engine flush with the Penrite Flush product 3. New cheap oil poured through the engine.
Basically demonstrating that for an engine with known oil sludge that the Penrite Flush Product works. Still wondering if it is better than using diesel as a flushing agent.
Pho
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Welcome to the Forum. I am not a hybrid owner but the best tip is to read your owner's manual thoroughly. I am a great fan of The Car Nut and his YouTube videos. You may care to view this video and consider also viewing the series of videos that he presented about the Toyota Hybrid system.
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Expect it to be a frustrating PITA job. I am sure that I put the rear wheels up on ramps for the extra ground clearance.
I do not know how but I managed to remove the existing sway bar without having to undo any of the exhaust retaining bolts.
Different matter to try and install the replacement sway bar. Definitely had to remove those exhaust retaining bolts so the exhaust would drop down enough to then manouvre the sway bar into position.
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I am thinking that you really need to take a Camry Atara which presumably has the 2.5 litre engine & 135KW for a decent test drive on the highway. The Camry should have lower operating costs but are you going to enjoy driving it as much as the Aurion.
I am biased and know I can overtake so much faster and safer on the highway with my Aurion. The V6 is more than enough for my needs. However, if the Camry can accelerate responsively from 90-100kph for fast overtaking then I would consider the change.
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If anyone is needing new tyres, 50% off all Pirelli tyres. Only Valid Today for Black Friday sale
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The following YouTube video for discount genuine Toyota Oil Filters has been recently posted.
I did test the discount code and it worked. I also checked eBay and the seller LSI Auto has a listing for the filters for the 2GR-FE engine.
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Following video appeared in my YouTube feed. I am sure that it is really about matching your speed and visibility for an overall safe driving experience.
On a recent road trip, I had 2 memorable learning reinforcement experiences. 1st experience was approaching a bend too fast after overtaking so had to use the brakes to get back within my driving comfort level. Usually after overtaking, I have enough distance for my vehicle to slow down without braking but not that particular time.
2nd experience was driving at the 110kph speed limit [with cruise control] on a series of left and right hand bends. This was at the limit for my driving comfort level particularly as I knew the tyres were close to the wear limit.
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Final Update for the new Continental ContiComfortContact 5 tyres which have now been replaced. Probably a fingernail thickness above the wear indicators, so just legal.
My record keeping is a bit suspect so fairly confident that the tyres lasted for 36K Kms. One thing is certain that the tyres were NOT going to last forever with Aerospace 303 treatment as per an implied claim in a YouTube video. Most certainly not going to make any claims about reduced tyre wear.
I did have higher hopes for the tyres on the Yaris but unfortunately the Yaris got written off earlier this year.
On 7/10/2022 at 4:14 AM, campbeam said:Another one of my speculative theories has "bit the dust". It would have been many months ago that I deflated the tyres and put at least 100ml of 303 Protectorant inside each tyre. Certainly been a few months since I have checked the tyre pressures previously set at 40 psi. Yesterday, the tyre pressure was 32 psi after refilling the fuel tank so pumped back up to 40psi. Looks like tyre pressure reduces by 1 psi each week.
When we get some warmer weather and some motivation, I will give the tyres another full treatment both exterior and interior and do better record keeping. Then I will retest the tyre pressures after 4 weeks.
Not really expecting any worthwhile results except to confirm that you would be better off saving the $$$ and buy a new tyre.
Replacement is a set of used mag wheels and tyres from the wreckers. The tyres have also been given the Aerospace 303 Treatment both inside and outside more for appearances. Certainly expecting the tyres to last more than 12 months so will be keeping watch for a decent quality brand touring tyres with good wet weather performance.
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Total guess but I would be looking at the light switch on the indicator stalk.
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On 10/8/2023 at 12:02 PM, DebrisSella said:
is there seriously no discussion for a brand new car to Australia apart from these few posts?
I noted the validity of the points made by Hiro.
Actually I consider the few posts to be an indicator of good news. As expected, it is a functional reliable vehicle so the owners are busy enjoying their purchase and not complaining, at least at this early stage. Any issues would be subject to warranty and should be resolved by the dealers. Allow a few more years then expect posts about the usual items requiring replacement e.g. tyres, battery, etc. Maybe posts about increased servicing costs after the fixed price servicing period ends.
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Getting ready for another road trip, so last weekend, the car got a wash and the bat/bird flyover presents removed.
I kept it quick and simple using Armor All Super Heavy Duty Wash. Afterwards, I did a quick drive around the block to blow off any excess water then a wipe down with a large microfibre cloth.
For the windscreens and side glass, used Armor All Ultra Ceramic Glass Treatment & Cleaner.
For the paintwork, used Armor All Ultra Ceramic Spray Coating.
For the tyres which will be replaced after this road trip, I will most likely use Aerospace 303 Protectorant.
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8 minutes ago, markw81 said:
And battery sits at 11.9V when off
I am pointing the finger at the battery. It should be at 12.5V at least for a good battery. My previous battery [purchased May 2017] started to be unreliable not holding charge at 12.5V. New battery [now 1 month old] sits at 12.9V
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I have previously purchased from this eBay seller for an OEM alternator and highly likely to select them should I need a starter motor.
In the following eBay listing,
Reference OE/OEM Number428000-1080 -
The Govt. Dept that deals with motor vehicle registrations in your State.
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On 8/25/2023 at 5:29 PM, Angrysubie64 said:
I am thinking about getting a Stoptech big Brake Kit for my Celica SX. Could someone clarify to me on whether big brake kits are road-legal or not?
I would highly recommend that you contact your State Motor vehicle Transport Dept to confirm. I did a Google search so essentially it is an upgrade of the rotors, calipers and brake lines.
Doubt if this will be a road-legal issue.
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1 hour ago, Henstepper said:
can i just add plain water or do i have to use the pink 50/50 mix? im not sure what brand they used but its always been pink
Best to use the correct premix coolant. As an emergency workaround you could use distilled water, preferably not tap water.
https://www.nulon.com.au/vehicle-lube-guide-menu/manual-vehicle-search/TOYOTA/AURION/2009/60716300
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On 8/12/2023 at 9:05 PM, StephenG said:
the minor issue I have - which I didn't pick up on the test ride was a minor vibration that seems to come and go - a bit difficult to explain, it doesn't seem to change when coming on or off the throttle - it's more noticeable the faster you go - not a big deal but I can feel it - even though my wife can't.
I can suggest that you get the wheels balanced. Also check the tyre pressures.
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14 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Was this after a recharge or a jump start and subsequent drive ?
Have you checked the charging volts with the engine running Ash ? Do you still have the original alternator in it ?I think this will serve you well. Less stress on it during start up. Your climate up there is also pretty forgiving too. You winter cold start ups are akin to a spring morning in Sydney.
I reckon it will come good. Can't remember which C-Tek you have, but if it has the "recondition" feature, this will help desulphate the battery for better longevity.
Sulphation is the biggest cause of battery degradation and failure and it can't hurt to attach a C-Tek Comfort connect to you battery and give it a trickle charge for those periods when you don't use the vehicle all that much.
Recharge and subsequent drive. Certainly did check the charging voltage 13.5V or 13.7V. Original alternator has been replaced May 2019.
I have the CTEK MXS 7.0 Looks like I have not been using the recondition mode, only normal mode. Currently got the CTEK connected to the NS70L MF battery which was purchased June 2019.
Looks like I replaced the Century 75D23L MF battery a long time ago and have got 2 of the NS70L MF batteries. Most likely went into the store for the 75D23L and changed my mind for the NS70L.
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22 hours ago, AussieA said:
which size hosing to get for the second hose (from catch can)
Best to check but i am sure that you will find 3/8" will work. I used 3/8" hose from the PCV valve to the oil catch can then the existing hose from the oil catch can to the air intake.
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That few mm movement of the radiator is normal as there are rubber mounting bushings.
No idea/suggestions for that minor vibration. Maybe check the tyre wear for any uneveness.
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White smoke 💨 on every start
in New Members Introductions
Posted
I have been using diesel as engine flushing oil since the 70's. More specifically, I have been using diesel as an engine flushing oil in my Aurion's engine for the past 8 years. Remember to IDLE the engine so no revving of the engine or driving the car. Suggested idle time is 10 minutes, presumably enough time to get the diesel warmer and help loosen/dissolve the oil sludge. If you want to take a more cautious approach then reduce the idle time and possibly also add a litre of cheap engine oil to the diesel.
Your engine has a nice accumulation of oil sludge but I think mine would have been worse when I purchased at 165,000kms on the odometer and blowing smoke on start up. Latest odometer reading was 266,400kms when I did an engine flush and oil change last weekend.