campbeam

You have got me thinking that removing the radiator would have definitely give much more working room. Extra time and effort but it avoids any potential for damaging the radiator. Something that I was very careful to avoid when taking out the alternator. Still ended up with some of the cooling fins on the radiator a bit flattened that then were straightened before putting the fan shroud back on.

This article is worth reading. https://tuningpro.co/the-3-most-common-toyota-5vz-fe-3-4-v6-engine-problems/

I kept thinking about this post and remembered a YouTube video about cleaning the Hybrid cooling battery fan similar to this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIyUIGVAvBE Kept searching and located this YouTube video bt The Car Nut which may be more applicable for your warning light.

Just guessing that possibly the inverter is overheating due to a low coolant level. Good idea to also check other possible causes mentioned in the URL below. Can you also post a photo of the warning lights on the dash. https://grimmermotors.co.nz/hybrid-system-repairs-hamilton/

I recommend this YouTube Channel. He has posted a number of videos about the care and maintenance for Toyota Hybrids. All of them are worth watching. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEKt2bUDBoRUw3wpPpDOUaA/videos

Depends, Maybe, No. From the very limited amount of information provided, this vehicle had done double the average expected mileage. It is a ticking timebomb for future expensive repairs dependent upon service history and useage. A lower purchase price will help to offset expected repair bills. Definitely check/confirm when the following items were replaced: 1. Spark plugs and coil packs 2. Water Pump 3. Automatic Transmission and Differential Fluid [when last changed] 4. Thermostat and Coolant 5. Suspension: Struts, control arms and bushings

I will agree that it is a more involved job particularly compared to earlier 4 cyl Toyotas where it is just a few retaining bolts and to replace the alternator is just a few minutes. As per the YouTube videos, I removed the radiator shroud which contains the 2 cooling fans. This then provided enough working room for actually being able to remove the alternator out of the engine bay. Most certainly did not need to touch or disconnect any of the airconditioning lines. You may possibly be referring to the bolt on the tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt. Something else for consideration is that there are differences between the 40 and 50 series. Coolant overfow bottle is to one side on the 40 series but close to the radiator on the 50 series. Definitely recommend buying the best quality alternator to avoid having to do a replacement again in the short term.

My initial thoughts were: When was the gear oil last changed ? and have you checked the gear oil level?

I have attached some reference documents that i used when I replaced the alternator. Alternator Removal YouTube URLs.docx Serpentine Belt Diagram on 2GR-FE Engine.docx

I rather liked this recent article which I thought was quite a balanced perspective. If the end game is reducing emissions then access to higher quality [low sulphur] fuel should be made available in Australia much sooner. https://www.caradvice.com.au/943756/hybrid-cars-get-green-light-to-earn-super-credits-to-offset-emissions-of-utes-and-4wds-in-australia/

What I suspect is happening is that you are continuing to drive. The alternator is not charging the battery and the level of charge in the battery is going down. This is why more warning lights are appearing. Eventually, you are going to be stranded with a fully discharged battery. Temporary workaround is to fully recharge both batteries and have the spare battery in the vehicle ready to swap over. Best to check the alternator connections then determine whether it is the alternator or the alternator pulley that needs to be replaced. . An auto electrician would most likely have to bench test the alternator. In my case, I chose to replace the complete alternator unit but have retained the old one. I purchased from this eBay seller back in April 2019; [possibly OEX brand] https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Alternator-fits-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-3-5L-Petrol-2GR-FE-10-06-03-12/111372269393 This listing could be for a Denso brand alternator but best to confirm with the seller. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alternator-for-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-engine-2GR-FE-3-5L-V6-Petrol-06-12/271956457735

Have a look at this YouTube video. It may be of some use.

When my Aurion goes to car heaven, I have a replacement Aurion on standby. I would then consider the RAV4 Prime after it becomes available in Australia. After 2030, I might then be after an aerodynamic efficient electric car for my urban grocery getting activities in retirement.

Before, I was not taking your post seriously. Now that I have seen this recent news article, here is a potential donor vehicle for the V6. https://www.drive.com.au/news/2021-toyota-kluger-due-in-australia-in-june-hybrid-inbound-125382.html?trackLink=SMH2 Maybe instead, we will have to get our hands on the V6 Kluger and sports tune the suspension.

Latest AutoBarn catalogue has Gulf Western Full Synthetic Syn - X 6000 5W-40 5 Litre for $30 [1/2 Price] https://www.autobarn.com.au/ab/catalogue?mkt_tok=NzY4LVhWRi01NTAAAAF8ZBOdc6k40tCsktL0SVjDQnG2q2IuB4_5r77PPkwM1mGZd9m2Kja5IzK6PlUpqt_p-iFIO9ZXy6ZaE3GrNSblJNaGgxL-ikhL09aG#view=catalogue2&saleId=38322&page=1 http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/product/syn-x-6000/

Main reason for doing a service at a Toyota dealership would be if there were any recent applicable Service Bulletins. Have a read of your owners manual and service your vehicle as per severe driving conditions. This will involve regular oil and filter changes every 6 months using a quality full synthetic engine oil with an oil viscosity applicable to your engine i.e. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ For long term ownership, also service the transmission with changes of the automatic transmission fluid every 2-3 years. Toyota uses a long life coolant so check your owners manual for when it is due to be changed. Check your tyre pressures on a regular basis e.g. monthly. at least. The fuel pump is located internally within the fuel tank and is cooled by the surrounding fuel. One reason why rarely is my fuel gauge below the 1/4 full mark.

ABC News had a segment this morning about this topic. Do you think that a wait and see approach is best for the Australian market? Personally, I am very much opposed to the idea of a Govt. purchase rebate. This may be an acceptable policy in those countries which have an Auto Manufacturing Industry to support the transition to electric vehicle manufacturing for the future survival against Chinese Electric Vehicle Manufacturers. I do support the idea of Govt. fleets becoming electric thus becoming a potential source of cheap used electric passenger vehicles in future years. I do like the availability of plug-in hybrid vehicles as a means of bridging the gap until the charging network infrastructure has beome more extensive and electric cars cheaper. I am also anticipating the arrival in Australia of affordable quality electric vehicles sourced from China within the next 5 years. https://www.caradvice.com.au/866630/electric-car-subsidies-how-australia-compares-to-the-rest-of-the-world/

I was going to ask precisely why do you think that the engine needs to be replaced. What is the build date and the odometer reading? After looking at this video, I was thinking that the oil filter cartridge housing is in a similar position.

I assume that you meant a future post on this Forum. https://www.wilsonvilletoyota.com/blog/news/we-found-some-of-the-highest-mileage-toyotas/

Replacing that upper engine mount is quite simple and straightforward. Something that I have done recently has been to reinforce that engine mount using Sikaflex. https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-310ml-black-sikaflex-227-automotive-and-construction-sealant_p1210579 I am also a bit surprised that that engine mount has failed. I would also check the other engine mounts

We will need more information to put this into context. How many kms are on the odometer and is the car mainly driven on sealed roads etc. Has this knocking noise just started or has it been ongoing for some time and got worse? Have you hit any potholes or speed bumps etc. Has the car been driven recently by someone other than the regular driver? Best if you can also provide a video with audio of the knocking sound, it might be possible to make some targeted suggestions. Also a good idea to open the hood and take a video with audio of the engine idling.

This article shows the Menu path for changing the email filtering settings. https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook_com/forum/oemail-osend/how-do-i-prevent-email-from-going-to-junk-folder/a824e420-d13e-4dbe-b1dd-322efe2c0b5c I have never used HotMail because it seemed to be a main target for malware attacks. CyberSecurity at work previously denied access to HotMail accounts. Now that has been extended so I am no longer able to access my personal email account at Yahoo. On my home PC, I am using Advanced System Care and run a scan with the option to automatically remove and shut down PC. I also subscribe to daily software offers to get the giveaway PRO versions for free. https://giveawayradar.weebly.com/

We have had troubles with this passenger window before of not going up. Usually resolved using the master switch and sometimes after turning the ignition Off then On. Door switch is a bit loose so I prefer to use the master switch rather than the girlfriend using the door switch. As further background, when driving I usually have the driver window fully closed, front passenger window halfway down and rear windows slightly open. When parking, front passenger window and rear windows are left down about 1-2 cms. There had to have been a glitch in the system. We did not notice it at the time but the window must have gone down when I started the car. Girlfriend was on her phone and later mentioned when we were driving that the window was open and she had not used the door switch. That was the start of the window not going up using either button while driving or when parked. This time YouTube did start me in the right direction with a technique to reset the buttons. Otherwise, I would have been unnecessarily dismantling doors and replacing switches. The silver lining is that I can now use this technique on a Mazda which has the same issue of one window not working. I had replaced the master door switch after looking at a few YouTube videos. Ended up not being the solution. I had been thinking that it was a possible broken wiring and was going to leave it as is.

Regular servicing is the secret to longevity. Hope the new "custodian" realises this.

I knew that Tony would be able to provide an excellent answer speaking from his own experience. Good idea to take care and preferably avoid the fuse box and any ECUs. I have not yet done this but I have noted a few YouTube videos where they have used Tyre Foam as an engine bay cleaner. Just mentioning this as a consideration for your next engine bay clean.