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campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. Welcome to the Forum. I have yet to replace the head unit until absolutely necessary so always keen to hear of other's recent experiences. From a recent post, it is best that the battery is disconnected when doing the head unit replacement. This avoids a lot of issues with blown fuses etc. When it comes to tyres, it is what is going to meet your driving needs. I am more interested in a touring tyre with wet weather performance. I have got a set of new unused Continental Ultra Contact 6 [215/60/16] on alloy wheels that I will be fitting onto my Aurion later this year. If I was looking at buying new tyres then I would be considering Michelin Primacy 4. Also Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE004 was introduced overseas in 2020 as a replacement for the RE003. Unfortunately, the RE004 has not yet been released in Australia presumably because they have plenty of existing stocks of the RE003. As a general guideline, do regular oil changes every 8000kms or 6 months. If it has not been recently done, then do consider changing the automatic transmission fluid.
  2. I understand that the claim period is limited to 10 years from the manufacture date. However if there was a previous record about the condition of the dash being reported to/by a dealership then Toyota Australia may favourably consider a claim.
  3. Welcome to the Forum. Nice facelift to the van to make "Mac" standout. Looks like a mobile artist's studio. Hope you are keeping "Mac" well serviced with regular oil and filter changes to ensure ongoing reliability.
  4. I did a Google search and got this result. https://www.carsguide.com.au/toyota/celica/price/1972 This one is more promising. https://www.justcars.com.au/cars-for-sale/1972-toyota-celica-lt/JCFD5016523
  5. I found this following YouTube video to be quite enlightening to understand how existing vehicle manufacturers are adapting and introducing a range of electric vehicles essentially based upon their existing ICE vehicles. Range, charging times and price are the main barriers to mass adoption of electric vehicles. I can see so many of my thoughts/interests in flying cars, 3 wheel motorbikes, in this proposed production vehicle for 2021. Interesting that their approach is all about efficiency thus enabling to achieve more with less. Also a different production method of separate modules which "self align" so that future assemby points can be positioned closer to main markets. They recognise that it is a niche vehicle [not for everyone] but it certainly has mass appeal. I am thinking of it meeting immediate motoring needs as a commuter vehicle for a young or retired couple. Plenty of future potential disruptive technology shifts causing the existing vehicle manufacturers to adapt or perish.
  6. When was the last time that the timing belt and water pump were changed? How many kms on the odometer? When was the last engine oil and transmission fluid change and replacement of spark plugs done? More of a question to eliminate potential cause before considering imvestigating other expensive options of worn bearings.
  7. You can bin your oil stash when you only have a 2020 or later vehicle that uses 0W-16 oil. I am using up my oil stash [more than enough for next 3 years for 2 driver and 2 backyard vehicles being mine and the girlfriend's] which is now predominantly full synthetic engine oil with the specification ILSAC GF-5. I had to read the following article a few times to fully comprehend most of the details. Definitely need to know which oils are compatible with your vehicle. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/think-thin-gf-6-is-the-latest-spec-in-the-world-of-engine-oil/
  8. The latest oil specification is ILSAC GF-6. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/about-us/mobil-1/mobil-1-modern-engines/ilsac-gf-6
  9. No direct experience with fitting a performance chip or re-mapping the ECU. However, I have researched enough to realize that a lot of claimed performance gains are not going to happen. Also it is not so easy to re-map the ECU for the 2GR-FE engine. Apparently some have done this using a piggy back ECU. What is certain that you are going to be $300 poorer then some more when any power gains are at the expense at pouring more fuel into the intake. Better to save your money and go buy a faster car.
  10. 😁😁😁 I have had this experience caused by a Discount Used Tyre place. So called mechanic arrived late and checked the other fellow's work. I saw him get the air rattle gun, adjust the setting and retighten the wheel nuts. He must have set the torque setting to MAX. Wheels squealing when the car drove down off the ramps. Something was obviously not right. My protests were ignored and I did not know what I know now to stand my ground and totally INSIST that the wheel nuts be re-torqued to the correct specification before leaving their premises. Drove home for about 30+kms with the wheels/brakes squealing. Wheel nuts were so over-tightened that I had to jump up and down on my wheel brace to loosen them. One time being a short fat fellow worked to my benefit. Also had a brick standing upright on the other end of the wheel brace. Fortunately no broken studs. Afterwards, I did a Google search and discovered that over tightening the wheel nuts can distort the hat of the rotor causing that squealing noise.
  11. That sounds very much what I used to do for the wheel nuts. Now getting lazy or more health concious and use an electric rattle gun. Certainly a lot easier. However, I did use a 1/4" torque wrench for tightening the bolts to specification on the water pump.
  12. Following YouTube video by The Car Nut will give you information about the brakes on Toyota Hybrids. He has also done a series of videos on the Toyota Hybrid which should be worth your time to view.
  13. This thread by Metal_Head is worth a read. Proven results replacing rear mufflers with glass packed resonators.
  14. The following YouTube video shows how ro grease a sealed bearing. After taking the tension off the serpentine belt, I removed both idler bearings then used a pick and a small bladed screwdriver to remove to remove the seal cover. I may have removed the cover on both sides packing the grease into one side and refitting the cover then doing the same on the other side. Next weekend I checked the bearings while they were still fitted and wiped them down to remove any surplus grease. Many months later when I had to replace the water pump, I had to remove the idler pulleys and the bearings checked out just fine. The tensioner pulley also had to be removed and I may have repacked that bearing. [Poor memory 😁] Anyway it was checked and determined that condition was fine with no need to buy a replacement.
  15. Toyota did introduce an upgraded version of the idler pulley to address a squeaking noise issue with earlier versions of the 2GR-FE engine. I have not had to replace the idler pulleys but I have re-lubricated them with silicone grease. Toyota Squeaking noise from engine compartment.doc
  16. What has happened that oils have been continuously developed to meet higher specifications being demanded by car manufacturers in order to meet more stringent fuel economy targets. Your owners manual is the final guide. However, I refer to the recommendations in the Lube Guides of different oil brands for my specific vehicle. Not so confusing after you have done that. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/
  17. I am looking to the future when the RAV4 Prime or an equivalent performance Camry Prime is available in Australia and it comes with a solid state battery or even better. https://www.motor1.com/news/431972/toyota-rav4-prime-races-camry-trd/
  18. I happened to come across the latest YouTube video released by The Car Nut. Interesting issue about electrical connectivity being fixed by replacing 4 bolts.
  19. This YouTube video will give you a few clues where to look starting from 1:20 mark.
  20. Welcome to the Forum. Nice buy. Bet you are glad that you work at the local Toyota dealership rather than a Holden one or a few other makes on the decline. I am sure that you will have a few stories to tell and some good advice.
  21. I get an accurate reading from the dipstick after the engine has sat overnight. Something that I do most Saturday mornings while doing a quick check under the bonnet.
  22. I thought that I had overfilled the engine by approx. 1 litre when I did an oil change last weekend. At the time, I just removed and drained the oil filter housing but this was only approx. 200ml. So I checked the dipstick this morning and was a bit surprised at the level on the dipstick being high above the full mark. Later, I dropped the oil and refilled the engine to the correct level, Ended up being about 2 litres overfilled. Just checked now and the oil container is actually 6 litres not the expected 5 litres. Fortunately, I have been driving sedately [<2000 rpm] and short distances so no blown oil seals.
  23. Documentation, documentation, documentation. Stick to your guns and let the facts do their work. A great motivator for taking action is being disrespected or treated as a fool. Perhaps mention to the Boss how does he like to be treated personally and the actions of his dealership reflects upon himself. Perhaps challenge him to prove that he is the Boss and in charge to get things fixed i.e. radio and/or antenna.
  24. Forgot to mention that it is the Ironwalls brand and H7 bulbs are applicable for your Camry. Following eBay listing will give you more product details. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Sides-H7-LED-Headlight-Light-Bulbs-pk-HID-Halogen-200W-24000LM-6K-White-Globes/373353006313?fits=Model%3ACamry|Make%3AToyota&hash=item56ed92c4e9:g:en0AAOSwBSpftzob https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H7-LED-Headlight-Light-Bulbs-Replace-HID-Halogen-180W-21600LM-6000K-White-Power/324092318062?fits=Model%3ACamry|Make%3AToyota&hash=item4b7568516e:g:H90AAOSwXGVe8dOL
  25. After 2 years and some refining of my oil change overkill method, I have finally stumbled upon the solution/fix for this blowing white smoke issue. As mentioned in other posts, the underlying cause is the accumulation of oil sludge in the baffles of the valve cover. The oil is not able to drain quick enough and gets sucked up via the PCV system into the intake. One option is to remove the front valve cover and thoroughly clean these oil baffles. Instead of doing this, I have been refilling the engine via the PCV opening re-using the warm engine oil then repeating the process with diesel before using a cheap motor oil to flush the engine then add the new engine oil. I have done this process for about 2 oil changes and this appears to have thoroughly cleaned those baffles so there is no longer any pick up of oil into the PCV system and intake. On the PCV hose leading to the intake, I have fitted an inline filter which has a clear glass section. There no longer any collection of oil droplets onto this glass. I can further confirm this by checking the oil catch can which I have not yet done.
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