campbeam

14 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Was this after a recharge or a jump start and subsequent drive ?
Have you checked the charging volts with the engine running Ash ? Do you still have the original alternator in it ?

I think this will serve you well. Less stress on it during start up. Your climate up there is also pretty forgiving too. You winter cold start ups are akin to a spring morning in Sydney.

I reckon it will come good. Can't remember which C-Tek you have, but if it has the "recondition" feature, this will help desulphate the battery for better longevity. 

Sulphation is the biggest cause of battery degradation and failure and it can't hurt to attach a C-Tek Comfort connect to you battery and give it a trickle charge for those periods when you don't use the vehicle all that much.

 

Recharge and subsequent drive. Certainly did check the charging voltage 13.5V or 13.7V. Original alternator has been replaced May 2019.

I have the CTEK MXS 7.0 Looks like I have not been using the recondition mode, only normal mode. Currently got the CTEK connected to the NS70L MF battery which was purchased June 2019.

Looks like I replaced the Century 75D23L MF battery a long time ago and have got 2 of the NS70L MF batteries. Most likely went into the store for the 75D23L and changed my mind for the NS70L.

22 hours ago, AussieA said:

which size hosing to get for the second hose (from catch can)

Best to check but i am sure that you will find 3/8" will work. I used 3/8" hose from the PCV valve to the oil catch can then the existing hose from the oil catch can to the air intake. 

That few mm movement of the radiator is normal as there are rubber mounting bushings.

No idea/suggestions for that minor vibration. Maybe check the tyre wear for any uneveness.

My Century NS70L MF battery was actually purchased back in May 2017 and went flat again Saturday so the new SuperCharge Gold Plus Truck Battery - MF80D26L has now been fitted.

My Century 75 D23L MF battery was purchased in June 2019 and it now needs to be re-charged. 

Looks like I am going to have some fun over the next few weeks/months using my C-Tek charger to try and rejuvenate the NS70L MF battery.

I can recommend this eBay seller for a replacement engine oil pan.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/294669344361?hash=item449ba95e69:g:i5QAAOSwHNZh5afx

I had the dreaded flat battery this morning and temperature was 8C. This was my Century NS70L MF battery purchased back in June 2019. Age and 3 days of short distance driving would have been the contributing factors. When connected to the battery charger, it registered 12.5V and fully recharged within less than 30 minutes. All OK at lunchtime so did not go battery shopping at that time. Finally decided to buy a new battery rather than wait and see until Saturday morning.

I was initially considering the following:

Century 55 D23L MF RRP$230 ; Century 75 D23L MF RRP$274 ; Century NS70L MF RRP$284

Unfortunately, SuperCheap Auto was not having a 25% discount battery sale, so next looked at AutoBarn.

After some research, ended up selecting and buying the SuperCharge Gold Plus Truck Battery - MF80D26L at $194 reduced from RRP$259

Specifications of 720 CCA and 80 AH. I was also expecting a 36 month warranty but my local AutoBarn had the latest version which comes with a 50 month warranty for passenger vehicles.

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-Ranges-by-Brand-|-Autobarn/Supercharge/SuperCharge-Gold-Plus-Truck-Battery---MF80D26L/p/EL04501

https://www.supercharge.com.au/4wd-battery/supercharge-goldplus-4wd/  

Welcome.

Allow to introduce you to The Car Car Nut on YouTube who is a wealth of information. The other source of information is your vehicle's owners manual. Hope that it includes information about the air intakes for the hybrid system.

I buy the front bonnet/hood struts on eBay.com.au

I have got these ones currently fitted "A-Premium 2x Bonnet Gas Struts for Toyota Camry ACV40 AHV40 Aurion 2006-2011" Current listed price is $20.88 including delivery.

The answer to your question about DPF regeneration is in the following URL: https://mag.toyota.co.uk/toyota-dpf-regeneration/

Now I know that a diesel engine vehicle [which I have never owned] would be unsuitable for my short distance urban driving.

I think that your Dad's deisel will benefit from using a DPF cleaning product.

Suggest that you view this YouTube video by The Car Nut a few times, at least. This guy is a highly respected, fully experience and trained Toyota Master Technician. A few of us on this Forum view most of his videos and learn a lot. I now change the ATF at the interval that The Car Nut recommends in this YouTube video.

For the past 9 months, I have not seen an oil special that would tempt me. Not going to say exactly how oil that I already have on hand but assume 3-5 years supply and that has raised my temptation bar.

I have just gone into my local Autobarn store for their 2 day sale of 25% off. They had a clearance table for old shelf stock of engine oil. Ended up buying another 6 x 5 litre containers of synthetic engine oil at $15 each. At $3 per litre, this was just too much temptation for me.

I thought that I would mention this with EOFY coming soon and quite possibly your local auto stores may also have something worthwhile in their clearance bins as a bonus extra for their in store customers.

SuperCheapAuto and AutoBarn have sales on now.

SCA have Armor All Ultra Graphene Spray Coating 500ml as a Clearance item reduced to $13.30 I am thinking of giving it a go despite only a few 2 star reviews.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/armor-all-armor-all-ultra-graphene-spray-coating-500ml/651601.html?cgid=SCA8000995#srule=Price Ascending&start=44&sz=60

I am currently using Armor All Ultra Ceramic Glass Treatment & Cleaner 500mL. Still on the initial bottle purchased about 1 year old on an introductory offer at Super Cheap Auto. Definitely follow the application instructions.

On my Aurion, the water starts beading and flying off the windscreen at 60 kph. One of my better decisions was to do a windscreen treatment at the end of day 1 of a recent road trip after encountering a few hours of sporadic light rain. Next morning, the weather changed to regular light rain and there was little need to use the wipers except when the traffic was more prevalent. I have found that in Brisbane warm weather conditions, best results from the glass treatment is from the initial 2 weeks.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/armor-all-armor-all-ultra-ceramic-glass-treatment-cleaner-500ml/623881.html?cgid=SCA8000995#search_term=armor all&start=38

I also have P&S Bead Maker on hand, so likely to use it on the windscreen.

11 hours ago, Rimsy said:

I bit the bullet and just bought the full metal pipe. Wish me luck...

Hope that you have a cordless 3/8 right angle impact wrench tool which will ease the frustration instead of using offset spanners or ordinary ratchets 1 or 2 clicks at a time.

Noticed your post earlier but have no experience with your vehicle's "bounce" issue.

I have been thinking that it could potentially be a torque convertor issue. However, this could be biased thinking because I have previously researched torque convertors for possible future replacement purposes.

As your mechanic has advised you that the front brake pads are down to 3% remaining life, this should be a high priority issue and could potentially be the underlying reason for that "bounce" issue.

Your better option is to replace it with the full metal part. Is $60 a more attractive price?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332610542193?epid=671085460&hash=item4d71221a71:g:ryQAAOSwmTxfKgRR&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwA1E6FHClfkg14U6FtPji8RZVwb71N2HBvLGq9GQEx71UY%2FgHVxFlFWzAhcQXUmftk2a2zvaytKXp0ZzN7mHOcmw49peJhtLfyBuNDir2Kum%2FmUw6fvUUv8UdbASgmxxQ6o%2FNuCllphapGeCzaCdL%2FD7IGiEJq%2Fj5Kkh4YMnDxuXhGNuyv6JlYimITnlZmdhtyePEOSQb0GWsJIe5U8%2BIAyg4%2BUMUa65tcaFdbP5K2zZwFyXBGXQQ09brKLZo4WuAg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7aw98CZYg

Hope that you have the necessary tools for operating in tight places. Replacing this oil line was a real PIA and took me most of the weekend, then afterwards I bought the tools that I wish that I had.

Today I viewed a Short YouTube video by the same presenters. In that one, he recommended a 2000 mile oil change interval if you really wanted the very best.

He had dismantled engines with 4000 mile and 6000 mile oil change intervals and could see/notice the differences in engine wear. Presumably that was for the Nissan GTR engines but not specifically stated.

Following YouTube video appeared in my feed so thought that it would be worthwhile viewing considering that it was from an automotive engineering perspective.

It supports the old school approach of regular oil changes every 3000 miles or 5000 kms particularly if you are going to be a long term owner. Otherwise extend by say 30%.

The 2GR-FE engine has a timing chain. If the engine is properly maintained with regular oil and filter changes using a quality brand name engine oil, then the chain should last the lifetime of the vehicle and not need to be changed.

Have a look at some YouTube videos. There are paint markers on the chain and they are indicators when they become faded/hard to see that the timing chain needs to be replaced.

If your engine has serious accumulated oil sludge issues, then I HIGHLY recommend removing the front valve cover and thoroughly cleaning the valve cover and cylinder head valve gear, as best you can. Also check and clean the PCV valve. This is a proven solution to resolve the issue of the engine blowing white smoke on start up or when accelerating hard.

After this has been done, then if required, try the chemical flush product to further clean the engine internals.

Check your owner's manual for the oil viscosity ranges recommended for your specific vehicle. Additional option is to search the Lube Guides for Penrite and/or Nulon.

I buy my engine oil when on special and stay with proven brand name oils e.g. Penrite, Nulon, Gulf Western, Castrol, Shell, etc.

19 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

both the oil control valves for the VVTI systems have them. So one for each bank.

Those small filters clip onto the end of the banjo bolt for the VVTi oil line. This filters the oil just before it gets to the oil control valves thus preventing any sludge particles affecting their operation. I have only cleaned these filters when the oil lines have had to be removed.

I had some difficulty to not cross thread the banjo bolt of the front oil line when re-assembling after removing the front valve cover. Unfortunately, I found the filter on the ground afterwards so it is in a safe place to be refitted when I next remove the front valve cover.

I think that you will find that the quote is to replace the strut only, not the complete assembly.

Following YouTube video by The Car Nut recommends also replacing the top mount particularly for blown/leaking struts.

I do not use a breaker bar very often so have been improvising with a length of pipe for many years. I did need the extra leverage for the recent replacement of the rear wheel bearing hub assembly.

Recent sale offering from Trade Tools for their Force brand tools got me looking. I located this one. https://www.tradetools.com/force-1-2-telescopic-swivel-ratchet-breaker-bar-802434

I then did an online search and could not find an equivalent. Known quality and the price was attractive enough. I spoke with a TT staff member and he said that it was a best seller.

Now got my hands on a very nice quality 1/2" drive breaker bar that can extend to 680mm. It should prove to be quite handy if ever I need to replace any suspension components.

Recent email from Trade Tools was offering 20% off all Force brand tools for 3 days 4-6th May.

What I noticed was the increased price of a particular tool set; 80% difference in 8 years. Just confirms that it pays to buy quality tools when on special rather than wait for next year or so.