campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. Suggest you look at the Youtube videos. I am expecting that you will see the hole for spraying cleaner into when cleaning the throttle body. I have also read the reviews about Fuel Doctor and given my Aurion the initial shock treatment etc. I bought the large bottle costing about $37 at SuperCheap. Again, it was more of a preventative maintenance measure.
  2. Have you ever cleaned the idle air control valve and the air intake body. It was something that I overlooked on my 1998 Camry. Car was idling fine at traffic lights then at the next it would not idle without accelerator. I now do this service about every 5000KM Suggest a Google search with the search terms " toyota camry idle air control valve" for the Youtube videos etc on how to do this. May also be worthwhile to check the spark plugs (clean and re-gap) and inspect the ignition leads.
  3. Best to check which model transmission is fitted to your Echo e.g. U440E After 210,000KM, the transmission filter is also due for replacement. Assuming that you can easily get to all of the fasteners on the transmission pan, it should be a straightforward task. If the Echo is similar to the Camry, then there will be cooler lines going to and from the transmission and the cooler at the bottom of the radiator. By disconnecting the return hose back to the transmission, you can fully flush the transmission for a complete fluid change. Total oil capacity is about 5.6 litres and the drain and fill is only 2.1 litres. Therefore 2.1 litres of new oil will be mixed with 3.5 litres of old oil, 100 percent old oil will become 62.5 percent after first drain, 39 percent after 2nd drain, 24 percent after 3rd drain and 15 percent after 4th drain, Personally, I have done a transmission flush using the oil line disconnect procedure on my 1998 Toyota Camry. Recently, I have changed the transmission filter on my Toyota Aurion. At the time, I could not easily locate the cooler lines to do the transmission flush. While the pan was off, I used degreaser to clean whatever transmission internals were visible and to thoroughly clean the transmission pan. About 2 weeks later, I did a drain and fill. I was planning upon replacing the transmission filter again after 40,000KM For preventative maintenance reasons, I have been using XADO treatment products in the engine and transmission etc. So if you keep your vehicles long term, do yuour internet searches and work out whether it is worthwhile for you.
  4. An option to consider would be to contact a business that does plastic welding if the part is not readily available.
  5. Suggest doing a Google search with the search terms "u660e shift flare concerns" Some of the search results show the Toyota Technical Bulletin issued in the USA.It mentions placing a sticker on the bonnet/hood when the transmission control module TCM has been recalibrated. Look at the posts in the Toyotanation.com site. There is no obvious solution but the U660e transmissions are "supposedly sensitive" to their fluid level; neither under-filled or overfilled. Personally, I replaced the transmission filter and then replaced the ATF fluid with the same amount that was drained (approximate measurement 2.8 litres). Gear changes appeared to be a bit harsher at first then settled down. Next weekend, I checked the fluid level when the car engine was cold by loosening the overflow plug and about 300ml drained out. Please note that there are no guarantees that changing the ATF filter and fluid will fix flaring but it does make sense as the ATF fluid ages and becomes contaminated that it will/could impact upon gear changes. Worthwhile doing for preventative maintenance purposes especially after 70,000KM if you towing or if "exuberant" in your driving style.
  6. Suggest you do a Google search for "Lubricant Guide" and then select from the search results. Your vehicle require a full synthetic ATF Personally, I have bought the Chief brand of synthetic ATF at Supercheap mainly because of price. Otherwise, I would be considering PENRITE. Also consider doing a drain of the transmission fluid more than once.
  7. Traditionally, I associate fog lights with yellow. You may be interested in the following URL for the photos and comments http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21936 Always best to check with your State Dept of Transport about any legal requirements or limitations on fog lights. Not good if you end up being pulled over by the police and told to remove them because they are too bright and blinding oncoming traffic.
  8. A few months ago, I had the same thoughts about upgrading brake lines but decided to defer until actually required. I am more likely to upgrade rotors and brake pads for emergency braking purposes. Also quite concerning about the quality and subsequent failure of stainless steel braided hoses, still comes down to the quality of materials and workmanship.. You may be interested in the following eBay listing for information purposes: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-AURION-GSV40-2006-on-brake-upgrade-SAFEBRAKE-Performance-Lines-/170790588969?hash=item27c3e99229:g:KOkAAOSwaNBUiCdJ It It would appear that if the hoses comply with the applicable ADR and SAE standards then they should be legal. However, I would recommend contacting your insurer about this proposed vehicle modification and also your State Department of Transport to confirm before proceeding with a purchase. .
  9. Autotradespares.com.au for Aurion Auto Transmission Kit WCTK134 Wesfill cost $13.59 instead of $52 on eBay.com.au Certainly learnt the expensive way to do better internet searches to find part numbers. Sparespro.com.au previously purchased oil filters for various vehicles.
  10. Results of internet searches from 2012 attached. At that time I was looking for instructions relating to my 1998 Camry. Please note that I have not actually performed these instructions myself so best check that they relate to your vehicle year. How to Program Toyota Keyless Entry.doc
  11. I phoned Toyota Australia today and spoke with their Customer Experience area. As per previous posts, I was advised that the oil cooler lines would only be replaced if they were leaking. I enquired about the VVTi line but this was not included. Looks like it is a case of monitoring for oil leaks then book the car into a dealer when it happens. The VVti line diameter is approx. 10mm [3/8"] and the oil cooler line diameter is approx. 16mm [5/8"]. In an emergency, I reckon that I could do a roadside repair to replace the rubber hose on the VVTi line. An emergency roadside repair on the Newell Highway for one or both of the oil cooler hoses is definitely something I want to avoid. After many internet searches and looking at braided oil hoses on eBay, I will definitely be ordering the oil cooler part and gaskets from Amayama to fit when I do my next oil change in a few months. I did find instructions for replacing the VVTi oil line. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/122-2nd-generation-2008-2013/432008-diy-replacing-rear-bank-vvt-i-oil-line.html I now need to find similar instructions preferably with photos for replacing/fitting the oil cooler lines.
  12. Hope the attached document is of some assistance. It is only a selected sample of the results. You have replaced four mounts for engine and presumably the transmission. Suggest open the bonnet, rev the motor and watch for any engine movement. There should be none or very little movement. Also listen or look for any vacum leaks that may be causing the engine to miss or vibrate when under accelerating. Next, you mentioned that you have replaced CV joints. Is that both outer and inner CV joints on both drive shafts? I would be [under the car] checking the drive shafts to confirm there is no play. No harm in using injector cleaner as mentioned in the Google search. Not sure how you can check the torque converter; maybe go to an auto transmission specialist. Google Search Results vibration under acceleration toyota.doc
  13. The following URL with photos should be of assistance http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-5th-gen-2007-2012/775586-es350-u660e-transmission-filter-replacement.html It is what I referred to before changing the transmission filter in my 2006 Aurion. You will definitely need to loosen the transmission mount which is accessible from the passenger side. Note either remove or turn the front passenger wheel for enough access. You will then need to raise the transmission; I used a hydraulic trolley jack with a piece of wood or an old book to make the contact with the transmission. The more clearance you can get the better. I ended up using a thin small 10mm ring spanner to loosen that one bolt. So be prepared for a quite frustrating time. The attached pdf shows the O-Ring for the filter and the position of the 2 magnets in the pan. After removing the pan and the filter, I used de-greaser to clean the pan and magnets and also the valve body assembly. Toyota U660E ES350AT3&4shiftflare-1.pdf U660E Transmission Filter Replacement.doc
  14. Previously read your post and been thinking about it. I would certainly like to know the solution. Looks like you have had the usual causes already investigated and eliminated. Just read this article so maybe the rotors and/or brake pads should be inspected. http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/
  15. Related thread titled "White smoke on start up" started 9th June 2011. Have a look at the post dated 26 August 2012 from "Leadingshield" which is what I have actioned.
  16. Similar experience with my 2006 Aurion ATX with 165,000KM. Apparently, the 2GR-FE engines are prone to engine sludge especially if poor quality engine oils have been used or not serviced properly. After a few Google searches, I found a post that explained that engine sludge was blocking oil channels and preventing the oil from draining properly from the valve covers, The PCV valve is then sucking the oil into the intake and this explains why there is exhaust smoke when you first start the engine. Later on a trip to Wagga Wagga, I noticed a significant blue smoke screen when accelerating hard on the highway. Engine oil level was full in the morning and mid afternoon after travelling 600km the oil level was below the low level. One quick solution is to either replace or remove the 2 valve covers and soak them in degreaser to remove the accumulated oil sludge in the oil channels. The PCV valve also needs to be cleaned so it can operate freely. Before dismantling the engine, I have desludged the engine a few times. During the return trip from Wagga Wagga to Brisbane, I added about 500ml of diesel before leaving and again after 600km. The new engine oil was totally black and the new oil filter cartridge was clogged with small black soot like particles. I replaced the engine oil and filter cartridge plus 500ml of diesel and checked after 500km. Again the oil filter cartridge was blocked with particles and the engine oil replaced. After further Google searches, I found a posting suggesting using 500ml of auto transmission fluid for oil sludge removal as an alternative to diesel because it contains cleaning additives. I did this and after recently returning from another trip to Wagga Wagga [2600 KM], I have just replaced the oil filter cartridge and topped up the engine loi level with more ATF. Inside the valve cover and side of the valve train is totally clean with no evidence of oil sludge. The excessive exhaust smoke is now totally gone. More Google searches suggested using a synthetic oil to reduce and minimise oil sludge. Also according to an ex Toyota Dealership worker, the 2GR-FE engines, if properly maintained, should last about 400,000 km before requiring any rebuild work. So maybe the dealer should consider adding a commercial engine flush product and have you drive around for 125km before returning the vehicle for another oil and filter change. This should reveal whether it is an oil sludge issue or the valve seals do need to be replaced.
  17. Joined to get involved in the Forums. Been DIY since 1975 starting with Honda Civic. Bought new 1998 Camry CSX which has been totally reliable. Upgraded suspension with Boge struts and King Springs plus Ultra Racing front strut bar. Struts and springs were bought from Fulcrum Suspension. Camry now in the shed waiting for my boys to get their license in 2017. Currently driving 2006 Aurion ATX (165,000KM) which was bought from a wholesaler via eBay in 2015. Got it for a good price because it has exhaust smoke on start up. After leaving a smoke screen when accelerating hard on the open highway and using about a litre of oil in 1 day, I learnt via Google search that it was oil sludge in the tappet covers affecting oil drainage so oil was being sucked into the intake via the crankcase ventilation valve (which was also blocked and needed to be cleaned). After engine flushes using 500ml of diesel and recently 500ml of transmission fluid in the engine oil, about 3 oil changes, and about 5 oil cartridge changes in about 3000km, the cylinder head is now looking totally clean. Just bought fog lamps from wreckers at Rocklea (Gumtree ad) but will have to go back for the relay and the control arm stalk to get them working instead of just cosmetic. Planning upon replacing the struts with Sachs brand which come with a lifetime warranty. Already have Pedders heavy duty front springs bought via eBay so will have to get the Pedders rear springs. regards, Ashley