campbeam

Attached are pictures of the replaced Aisin Toyota water pump showing the weep hole after I had cleaned it. There was movement in the bearing. Maybe if the weep hole was not clogged, then I would have been losing coolant and known earlier that the water pump needed to be checked/replaced. I looked at the initial post about the water pump failing with a massive leak overnight. My theory is that the bearing finally failed on the drive home and more of the coolant has then leaked out overnight.

I am expecting the serpentine belt to last forever with regular Aerospace 303 treatments. By regular, I mean next time that I am checking the pulleys etc. Last time was when I replaced the alternator. I did not replace the tensioner or the thermostat. Pulley on the tensioner was definitely checked. Waiting until the parts actually need to be replaced. Different matter if you are paying a mechanic.

I mainly used the side access to assist removing and replacing the serpentine belt. Majority of work was done from above. New pump is performing well but I have only started the engine a few times to check for leakages. Certainly hope that it lasts 175-180K so I do not have to replace it before "retiring" the car. Weep hole was blocked due to crud. Weep holes on the original and the aftermarket NPW are in the same location underneath the central bearing and shaft. However, they differ with NPW being in the centre of the small pressed in plug and on the original it is rectangular [part of the casting] and to the side of the plug. I did spray some silicone spray into the weep hole of the new pump. It did not seem to have any effect.

Check that the Takata airbag recall has been done. Engine oil consumption can be an issue. Check the service history. The YRS Yaris with the 1.5 litre engine is a pocket rocket on the urban streets so you should have lots of fun just driving to the shops.

Water pump replacement is all finished. Took me another 6 hours this morning. Spent a lot of time triple checking that all 16 bolts on the water pump were properly torqued. i could have saved some time by raising the engine more so that the water pump pulley could be removed. This would have made accessing the 2 bolts a lot easier. There is a stud for the thermostat housing which I did not bother to remove using an E6 socket. This would have saved a few minutes but easy to work around. Serpentine belt was in very good condition. I had previously given it the Aerospace 303 treatment so gave it some more after I refitted it. Both idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley were in good condition so did not need to be re-lubricated. Replaced water pump had the Toyota mark, so I presume that it could have been original. Interesting in that the weep hole was blocked so this could have contributed to the bearing going bad.

Bit annoyed that this has happened. Currently on leave for the rest of this week. Water pump was hopefully supposed to arrive by Friday so pleasantly surprised it arrived today after only being ordered on eBay on Saturday. I did the preparation work and got my various tools organised on Monday/Tuesday. I knew that it will take me more than 2-3 hours especially since I will do a few extras like checking/lubricating the various pulleys. Plan is to continue early tomorrow morning until it gets too hot then finish off in the afternoon.

Water pump arrived today. Already spent about 2 hours dismantling. Able to access and loosen all bolts so far and no need for cursing, yet. Tight working space and had to jack up the engine just to get out the engine mount support bracket because of 1 bolt. Making notes of the sequence of steps so will do a detailed workshop post with links to relevant YouTube videos etc.

Refer to your owner's manual for the recommended oil viscosity. I also look at the Lube Guide recomendations e.g. Penrite, Nulon, Castrol etc for your specific vehicle. After looking at that video by The Car Nut, my overall preference would be full synthetic 5W-40 but 10W-40 should be a good choice for the hot summer months. From your pictures, I think that the oil is dirty and ready to be changed plus the oil level is down a bit. Your engine is using oil.

Oil consumption should be minimal and there is a developing problem. Have a look at recent posts and you will find one with a YouTube video by The Car Nut that explains why Toyota engines burn oil and the preventative measure. Immediately do an oil and filter change using a quality oil preferably full synthetic. Do regular oil and filter changes every 6 months or 5000 kms whichever comes first. Also use the recommended oil viscosity for your engine i.e. 5W-40

Unfortunately, you are going to have to make the effort and read the owners manual especially all those safety features related to automatic braking. Your newer model Camry has improved cruise control so the transmission is downshifting to stay within the cruise control parameters. On my 2006 Toyota Aurion in the same scenario, there is no downshifting. On one long downhill run, speed increased to 120kph before eventually coming back to the preset 100 kph. Therefore, my cruise control is not set and forget especially in radar zones.

Take the time to listen to this YouTube video and heed his advice.

This is very much dependent the frequency of oil changes and using quality fuel. Oil is cheap so do oil changes based upon extreme driving conditions in your owner's manual. As a rule of thumb do oil changes every 6 months or 5000 kms. Do this and you can expect about 400,000 kms of troublefree motoring before any major engine work needs to be done. The 400,000 kms figure was told to be by someone in Wagga Wagga NSW who used to work at a Toyota dealership. My Oct.2006 Toyota Aurion has just hit the 226K mark and to "celebrate" the water pump bearing has gone bad. After a new water pump, I will be ready to rack up more kms. Something else that I have been doing is regular changes of the ATF to hopefully extend the life of the transmission. Good idea to change the ATF every 70K or 3 years. Please take the time to listen to this YouTube video particularly after the 23 minute mark.

A bit unfortunate that $1 experiment did not do the trick for you. If it was going to work, you would have noticed an immediate difference.

I would have used either 2 or 3 stainless steel scourers and teased them out a bit so they interlocked before using the broom handle to push them as far as possible to the back of the muffler. These scourers are essentially all metal so not flammable. https://shop.coles.com.au/a/mackay-mt-pleas/product/coles-stainless-steel-scourers-3pk?adId=display_vCooNDLxrmAkAxDE_QaWK44FKRQ4NTA1NzE0UA%3D%3D Occassionally but not very often that I would have to push them back into the muffler. Potential benefit is that they can eventually be removed.

My mistake. Just as well your eyesight is better than mine. This sale item is at AutoBarn. Still worthwhile considering/buying at $5 per litre. Currently SuperCheap has 30% off. Repco has 25% off if you spend $100 plus. With more wishing and hoping, there may be some Australia Day specials appearing in the email inbox.

Quick fix for the drone is to shove some stainless steel scourers into the mufflers. I used a broom handle to push them as far down into the muffler as possible. Think of it as extra sound deadening material. Definitely worked for me on a Honda Prelude fitted with a cannon muffler. No more unbearable drone [to my ears] and no noticable difference in performance.

AutoBarn has the Nulon Full Synthetic Long Life Engine Oil 5W-30 5 Litre [not 6 Litre as originally posted] for $24.99 [Limit of 2] on sale from Monday 25th Jan. 60% discount is wothwhile considering.

Your vehicle does not have a turbo. Slow deacceleration is due to the transmission remaining in the higher gear. Slight tap of the brakes will encourage the transmission to drop into a lower gear.

You definitely made the right choice especially only having to pay for 2 hours labour. I will certainly be taking more than 2 hours to get this job done. The serpentine belt should be in good condition and not need to be replaced. I will probably give it another treatment with Aerospace 303 Protectorant. I have previously lubricated 2 of the idler pulleys so planning upon checking them all. Definitely planning upon lubricating the pulley from the idler tensioner.

I have just bought the NPW water pump on eBay and hoping that it arrives ASAP. Unfortunately for me, I was expecting some seepage as an indicator that the water pump would most likely need to be replaced. I had forgotten about the bearing inside the water pump going bad and not getting much notice beforehand that it needed to be replaced. Something else to put down to experience. Also should have bought it when it was at a discounted price. Inconvenience can have a much higher price.

Actual odometer reading is is 226,005 kms and Aurion build date is October 2006. Highly confident that there was no bearing noise last weekend. I am assuming that it is the original water pump so should have a better idea when it is removed. In the meantime, keeping any driving to a bare minimum. Currently, there is no leakage but I have put a 5 litre container of distilled water into the boot as more of a "security blanket" measure. On a positive note, I am waiting to see whether the engine is quieter in comparison to earlier weeks/months after the water pump has been replaced.

Started the Aurion this morning and heard a grinding noise similar to this YouTube video. Bad Water Pump Bearing Noise - Bing video Investigated and loosened the serpentine belt tensioner hoping that it was one of the idler pulleys rather than the water pump. There was movement on the water pump pulley so the bearing is on the way out. Odometer reading is 226,005kms. Ordered a replacement water pump and gasket on eBay so hopefully will arrive by next Friday. Not exactly happy as planned road trip will have to be deferred plus not a straight forward task. In hindsight, I should have had the part on hand.

Various new Toyota models are now being built upon the Toyota New Global Architecture. As per the attached link, latest Camry now has Android Auto but talk to the dealer about device compatability. https://www.toyota.com.au/camry?gclsrc=aw.ds&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt6qr366u7gIVSp1LBR12QwvUEAAYASAAEgKLNvD_BwE

Absolutely pay attention to what The Care Care Nut says in his YouTube videos. Easy for me to agree with what he said about buying oil in the last minute of the video because that is exactly what I have been doing. Progressed to only buying the full synthetic engine oils when they are on special. My preference has been upon oils with high detergent additive levels.

Best go talk to your Toyota Dealer. Maybe they can hook up Techstream or other diagnostic tools to check the calibration.