campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. Has your mechanic tried to clean the sensors? http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-clean-an-oxygen-sensor
  2. Maybe this URL will be of some assistance. http://blog.obd365.com/2014/10/21/how-to-calibrate-steering-angle-sensor-sas/
  3. What I did note in reading the following URL was the importance of replacing the fuel filter when replacing the fuel pump. http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/clean-fuel-tanks-important/ Maybe the current fuel filter is restricting fuel flow and the pump is working harder, therefore the noise.
  4. Looks a good choice to be using a 5w-40 full synthetic oil. Here are another 2 URLs about high temperature viscosity and high shear rate viscosity for your consideration. http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables/substances/sae-viscosity-grades/ http://hddeo.com/hthsarticle.html Personally, I would be giving careful consideration to those higher viscosity oils with a high shear rate for improved wear protection. Engine's operating temperature is much higher than the outside temperature. The vehicle's cooling system is going to be more impacted by the outside temperature and its efficiency to cool the engine.
  5. Sound like you are in a desert region. What is the lower temperature when you start the engine? I live in a coastal city [min.5 degrees Winter max. 35 degrees Summer] and use a 10W-30 oil with the following specifications API SN/CF and ILSAC GF-5. Have a read of the following URLs which explain oil selection and oil specifications. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a53/1266801/ http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php As per the chart in the user manual, I would be considering a higher viscosity oil e.g. 10W-40 with higher specifications to deal with the high temperature.
  6. I would be getting a second opinion from a well established suspension specialist shop e.g. Fulcrum Suspension After a telephone conversation about Pedders Springs [not going to mention any further details], I would avoid their standard range. Their website gives the impression that Pedders has their own manufacturing facility but no specifics provided. I have previously used standard height heavy duty King Springs and am highly confident of their quality. So best to stick with a proven quality manufacturer. King Springs guarantee their product so have a look at their website for details and they are located on the Gold Coast Qld.
  7. In short, yes. However, best to get a written report from a recognised suspension shop. Best to deal with a factual report before spending lots of $$$$ Personally, I would be going to Pedders Suspension and paying the $29 for a suspension check. This report should confirm whether the front struts need to be replaced now or later and the condition of the rear struts. I have previously used Boge struts and King Springs supplied by Fulcrum Suspension. Boge is now owned by Sachs.
  8. I have had the same experience with the engine blowing smoke. The cause is engine sludge. I have done postings on this issue so do a search on this Forum with the search term "blowing smoke" and you should locate it. What is happening is that oil is being drawn/sucked into the intake via the PCV because oil lubricating the valve gear cannot drain away quick enough. My PCV was blocked up with oil sludge. The best quick solution is to remove both valve covers and thoroughly cleaned to remove the sludge from the oil drain channels. Also clean the PCV [positive crankcase ventilation valve]. What I have done is to use 500ml of diesel or ATF instead of commercial engine flush. I have done eight [8] oil and filter cartridge changes in the last 12 months and over 13K. Last oil change last weekend was quite black. and still plenty of "coffee grounds" caught in the filter cartridge. Finally satisfied that the engine is definitely and totally de-sludged. Recently bought a 2009 Aurion done 106K with the same smoking issue. Already put 2 lots of commercial engine flush through it with oil and filter changes then done the 500ml of ATF treatment a few times. Smokes a very little bit after start up but has improved noticeably. I was told by an ex-Toyata dealer employee that the Aurion engine should be good for about 400K before rings will need to be done. The original Toyota spark plugs should have a life of about 190K. When you do go to replace the plugs, NGK and Denso are usually the brands that are recommended. Ensure you get the long life iridium plugs. The regular iridium plugs don't have platinum side electrodes. Suggest you rely more upon the advice from the Toyota Dealership. Personally, I have never taken any of my vehicles to UltraTune.
  9. My rule of thumb thoughts are that the struts are about 50% worn after 45K and to consider replacement after 100K. Having said that, I have recently bought a 2009 Aurion with 106K and not planning upon replacing the struts when it is re-registered. Also experienced that bouncing feeling with my 2006 Aurion on the last interstate trip. Oil in the struts would have got quite hot after a few hours of highway driving . Now at 179K, it is a potential candidate for replacement at 200K. Before doing that, I would be going to a recognised suspension shop with shock absorber testing equipment for a suspension check. Another thought is that your front passenger side strut is more likely to get a hammering from potholes etc than the driver's side. That would explain why that strut [on another vehicle] had to be replaced after only 35K.
  10. I do a Google search for Lubrication Guide Penrite or Lubrication Guide Castrol etc. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/penriteaus/ Best to check it yourself but it appears that the a full or semi-synthetic transmission fluid is recommended for your vehicle. Anyway a full synthetic transmission fluid has better performance characteristics than Dextron III. This is why I just buy and use synthetic ATF in the auto transmission of my various vehicles. Dextron III can be used in the Power Steering, if it is recommended in the Lubrication Guide.
  11. I mainly use 91 UPL unless 95 ULP is very cheap. I did fill up with E10 95 in NSW on an interstate trip and did not notice any noticable difference in performance or fuel economy. It has been mainly a collective number of forum comments about the differences between using 95 RON compared to 91 RON. The assumption is that if the engine is specifically tuned for 91 RON then using a higher octane is not going to be much different. Apparently there are 2 sets of performance figures when using 91 RON and 95 RON. Also presumed to be a bit of a marketing ädvantage" that the engine uses standard ULP rather than the more expensive higher octane fuel. After looking at the YouTube videos for the Shell V-Power, I will be using it for a few tankfuls to presumably clean the intake valves etc. In my 2006 Aurion now 179,000Km, I have started using the Fuel Doctor product to clean the fuel system more as a preventative maintenance measure. So maybe the intake valves have already been cleaned. Anyway spend a few extra $ to put the Shell V Power to the test before deciding whether to go back to 91 ULP + Fuel Doctor or 95 ULP.
  12. This topic has been on my radar for some time. I have done heaps of Google searches and watched a few worthwhile YouTube videos. Just looked a video by Eric the Car Guy where he demonstrated using a cup of water to de-carbon the engine which was at operating temperature. In his commentary, he said that short distance driving is the culprit for carbon build up and a long distance drive can be the best way to blow out the carbon from the engine. I do recall a YouTube video where various products were compared and the results were not that impressive. As for fuel, from what I have read the Aurion engines can use 91 RON but are really tuned for 95 RON so you will get benefits with the higher octane fuel. 98 octane is considered to be not such a great economical proposition unless that is what the manufacturer recommends. .
  13. campbeam

    Brakes

    I would suggest that each time you start the engine to push the brakes down hard a few times before driving. This will not only test the brakes but hopefully help to seat/expand any seals. Toyota service should have checked under the bonnet for anything amiss with hoses around brake master cylinder etc. Keep a record with details to describe circumstances when the brake pedal has misbehaved e.g. weather conditions, how far driven etc.
  14. 1 C reading for Outside Temperature on Monday morning. Even smoother gear changes now and no hesitation when accelerating out of a corner. Enjoying the increased responsiveness.
  15. Solved. Reviewed servicing information and noted that the ATF level is checked with the engine running. Drained oil pan and added 1800ml of new ATF. Checked fluid level and now there is a drop,pause then another drop exactly as described [with the engine running and transmission in Park].
  16. This URL explains the 1 minute rattle on cold start up. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8-general-discussion/634018-vvt-brief-rattle-noise-approximately-1-second-cold-start-up.html
  17. Jonathan, Suggest you go to an Auto shop e.g. SuperCheap, AutoBarn buy a can of Throttle Body & Carburettor Cleaner and also a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Personally, I have started to use “Fuel Doctor Fuel Conditioner” after doing some Google searches for cleaning fuel injectors/systems. Follow instructions on the bottle. If you have enough DIY experience, preferred approach is to remove/dismantle the air intake, spray directly into the throttle body and clean/wipe with a rag. Any Mass Airflow [MAF] sensors are also cleaned/sprayed. Quick easy way is to open the engine hood and spray the can contents gradually into the air intake while the engine is idling. When the engine “splutters” stop spraying until it resumes a smooth idling. Do this for about 5 minutes. Go for a drive. Next day or so, repeat spraying the throttle body cleaner into the air intake for about 5 minutes. Go for a drive. Check engine light [CEL] can be reset by disconnecting the battery for about 10 seconds. If the CEL re-appears, take the car to a Toyota Dealer because their scan tool will provide more accurate results.
  18. What is "a second handy put in"? I would start by checking the wheel bearings. Next step would be to check and clean the brake pads and rotors. No harm in checking the tyres and removing anything caught in the tread. Also best to check the steering rack, drive shafts and cv joints for any excess movement. Check the power steering fluid level and the condition. If dirty, you could use a hand pump to remove the fluid from the reservoir and then replace with clean fluid. How many kilometres on the odometer? If close to 160,000km , consider having the automatic transmission filter and fluid changed.
  19. Attached is some very recent Google searches I have done for replacing a water pump on 2GR FE engines. Please go to the URLs for the associated photos. There is repetition for the different models in the USA. Appears that the engine can be jacked up after loosening the engine mounts to provide the room to remove the water pump. One contributor reported doing the water pump replacement in 2 hours for their vehicle. Others have reported 4-7 hours. I did note [and action] a comment about having a serpentine belt removal tool which is quite handy for working in tight spaces. 2GR FE Water Pump Removal Information.doc
  20. I learnt the hard way how to recognise when the water pump bearing is making noise and that it will fail badly and quickly. This happened at 150,000 km on my 1998 Camry. My 2006 Aurion has now done 178,000km but the service history is incomplete. Quite simply I do not know if the water pump has already been replaced or is on the pending to happen list. Anyway I just done a car forum search on how to possibly do the water pump replacement without removing the engine. Time varies between 2-7 hours so it could be a weekend job and to also replace the belt and idler pulleys etc. Because of the amount of time and effort involved, it will be worthwhile using quality replacement parts that will last 100,000 km plus rather than an unknown Made in China bargain basement item. Gates water pumps offer a 2 year/ 40,000km warranty and the $70 price is reasonable. At this stage, my main question is what brand/s of water pump are recommended or have been used with good results by other owners?
  21. Based upon my experiences with a 1998 Camry, I replaced the original front brake pads at 150,000km [not heavy on the brakes], replacement cheap Made in China pads only lasted about 30,000km before being replaced with Bendix brand and front rotors also replaced. Coolant overflow bottle also replaced and the plastic top of the radiator got a crack about 185,000 km. Overall, excellent Toyota reliability.
  22. These URLs may be of interest http://www.productreview.com.au/p/toyota-celica-1994-1999/m/t200-1994-1999.html http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=guide&make=Toyota&model=Celica&gen=889&pno=0 Interesting that this Celica has the same engine as my 1998 Camry. Check the service history and that the timing belt has definitely been replaced and has the water pump been replaced. I had a water pump fail at about 150,000 km and this chewed up the timing belt. I think it cost about $600 including towing about 8 years ago. Recommend you factor in having to replace the timing belt and water pump if the replacement of these items is unknown.
  23. Best to use the Search box on this Forum. You may be able to quickly locate the answer to your question. I also do Google searches for the 2GR-FE engine and U660E transmission. In the USA and other countries, the Aurion is a V6 Camry and a similar model for the drivetrain is the Lexus R250 [?]. Hopefully, your 2006 Aurion has been regularly serviced and you have the service history. What is the odometer reading? If it is more than 160,000km , seriously consider having the transmission serviced and a new transmission filter fitted. Also check the engine for oil sludge. If present, do an oil flush or 2, regularly replace the oil filter and use quality engine oils. Personally, I do this every 5,000km with mineral based oil. My research indicates that with synthetic oil, the change interval can be extended to 10,000km. Hope this helps with your servicing plan.
  24. One likely source of the noise, says Toyota, is a worn No. 2 idler pulley. Replacing it with a more rugged design (Part No. 16604-0P011) and adding an extra pulley cover plate (Part No. 16649-31020) should silence the noise in short order. Located this piece of information doing Google searches for 2GR FE engine. Toyota Squeaking noise from engine compartment.doc
  25. Located this item on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-Camry-Auto-Folding-signal-side-mirror-pair-2012-2014-/162072491687?hash=item25bc45f6a7:g:jzAAAOSwXSJXOWX6 Perhaps this video will give you an idea of what can be involved if the kit is not a direct plug in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1H47F2KP3Q