campbeam

Excellent. Just sent a message.

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

What's you're source for filter socks Ash ?

I tried searching Ebay and no joy.

I sourced filter socks from eBay a few years ago. 

Not sure if this part from AutoBarn will fit.

https://www.autobarn.com.au/sp166679 

Attached photos show how discoloured the filter has become. 

I just held the used strainer sock up close to a light bulb and the light was fully blocked. Very different for a new strainer sock.   

Where abouts are you located?

I am interested if you are in reasonable driving distance of Brisbane Southside.

On 12/30/2020 at 10:34 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

Might wait a little longer before tackling this again. Car seems to be running just fine on the original filter.

Based upon various internet posts, appears that the in-tank filters on Toyotas are supposedly lifetime and are mainly replaced when the fuel pump needs to be replaced.

Only if there is a problem with the engine performance would you need to replace the fuel filter. 

https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/fuel-filter-needs-replacing/ 

In my case, I noticed a difference on a 2018 road trip when doing hard acceleration compared to the 2017 road trip. There was also some hesitation so have replaced spark plugs, coil packs and fuel injector cleaner.

Aurion is now accelerating very nicely after replacing the fuel filter and the fuel pump strainer sock. 

I am thinking from a preventative maintenance perspective that it is more important to clean/replace the fuel pump strainer sock thus extending the lifetime of the fuel pump.

1 hour ago, LordBug said:

I don't remember if it's been brought up, but have you thought about sending an oil sample to be analysed Ash?

I have looked at the idea of getting an oil analysis. However for the cost, I can do another oil change or 2.

Planning upon doing an oil change to celebrate 2021. Still getting plenty of oil sludge particles in the oil filter cartridge.

My Prodigy just has the manual boot release and the key fob.

KAA is more likely to be able to assist.

32 minutes ago, VeradaMan said:

Oh and to top it all off, I was informed that I’m now out of warranty. 

I understand that the Powertrain warranty is for 5 years. Best to confirm this directly with Toyota Australia. 

https://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7683/~/what-warranty-coverage-do-i-have-on-my-new-toyota-vehicle%3F

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

So is there a particular position the spring needs to be in or it doesn't matter ?

Spring needs to be positioned in the base up against the indented stop position.

Top strut mount is then positioned as per the indicated arrow for the outer position. Following video at 2:33 shows this. On my front struts it was stamped outer with 1 arrow.

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

By the way, are the Sachs painted black or some other colour ? I don't much like having those fancy red or yellow things protrude from angle of sight. OEM looks just fine.

Sachs struts are painted black. King Springs are painted yellow. I am thinking about rechecking the ride height in a few weeks. Top of the coil is in a different position on the top rubber mount as compared to the OEM springs.

Possibility of a road trip is good incentive to get those outstanding maintenance items ticked off.

I am working to a few plans.

Tyres are getting due for replacement so that has been the main reason for replacing the struts and springs.

Getting prepared to do the ceramic coating of the windscreen. So spending more time and effort on cleaning the windscreen [both inside and outside] and working towards a perfect result. Starting to notice all those minor imperfections which will need to be eliminated.

As I previously mentioned, I bought this electric Impact Wrench Rattle Gun for $65 during an eBay Australia Day Sale 2020.

I subsequently bought this set of impact sockets from Trade Tools presumably when they were on sale.

https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/socket-sets/force-1-2-19-piece-metric-impact-socket-set

Both of these purchases were very much appreciated when I was replacing the struts. Bolts on the front struts are 22mm and the rattle gun got a good workout undoing and then re-tightening those main bolts. Also used the rattle gun with the 17mm and 14mm sockets for undoing and retightening. 12mm socket was just used for undoing.

Rattle gun came in very handy for undoing the main retaining nut on the strut after using spring compressors to slightly compress the spring. Certainly saved a lot of time and effort.

My 2006 Aurion ATX now has 225,675 kms on the odometer. It could be somewhat overdue for a fuel filter replacement.

I do not know whether the fuel filter was replaced before 165,000 kms when I bought the vehicle. 

Ryco Z646 or equivalent is a direct fitment for the 40 Series Aurion. 

I have previously watched a number of YouTube videos. Removing the bottom cushion of the rear seat was relatively easy. Prying off the cover was also easy but that black adhesive is messy. I used 2 small screwdrivers, 1 to push on the retaining clip of the electrical connector and the other one to pry it up. As per the YouTube videos, I started the engine which only ran for a minute before dying and this reduced the system pressure. I then fully removed the yellow plastic retaining clip and the hose came off quite easily.

I used a large round magnet [instead of a parts tray] to keep track of the small 8mm ring retaining bolts. 

It was quite easy to manouvre out the fuel filter and pump assembly.

Hard part was disassembling the various components to get down to just the fuel filter body. Multiple small screwdrivers and/or pick tools will be needed to unclip various parts.

Hardest challenge was removing the sender unit which I found out has 2 parts. Upper part can be removed by pushing upwards. Base component is removed by pushing downwards so that the underneath tabs move into a small rectangular area then it releases and can be pried loose. 

Fuel pump is removed by pushing downwards. An upper o-ring is what holds the pump in position. I tried to spray clean the fuel pump strainer sock but no noticeable difference. Fortunately, I had previous bought some on eBay which were a smaller size but did fit. This is the type of strainer sock with a straight hole for the retaining clip.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32788433064.html 

Round metal item located at the bottom of the fuel filter body is also held in position with an o-ring. Just needs a bit of leverage to come loose. 

It would be nice to say that everything worked the first time. However, not the case. Big learning is to check that you have no parts left on your work area. I had forgotten to reclip a bottom retaining cover under the fuel pump and which also retains that abovementioned round metal item which I had to fish out of the fuel tank. 

Fortunately, everything is working and engine is able to idle and accelerate nicely.

Something that I noticed the next day is that the engine is now idling lower by about 100 rpm. The fuel sender unit is working showing fuel level at the expected half level. Next test will be to refuel the car and check the indicated fuel level. 

Overall, this is a task which can be done in 2-3 hours. With a lot better preparation, you should be able to reduce that to 1-2 hours. 

I will post some pictures later and possibly some links to worthwhile YouTube videos.

Finally made the effort and fitted new Sachs struts and King [standard height] springs. As expected, struts were a direct fit with brake and ABS hoses bolting onto the strut brackets. 

I did the rear struts yesterday starting at 8:45AM and finishing at 3:30PM including 45 minutes for breaks. Rear springs [KTRS-61] were actually lower than the OEM springs being replaced. I was able to compress the spring enough to start the retaining nut without having to use the spring compressors. Fair bit of time was spent/lost trying get the upper strut mount into position and start the upper retaining nuts.

After a break, I then replaced the fuel filter which had a few challenges and finally worked out well. Rear seat will be refitted tomorrow. 

Odometer reading was 225,675kms and struts being replaced looked like original OEM.

I did the front struts this morning starting at 7:50AM and finishing at 1:10PM including 25 minutes for breaks. Front springs KTFS-63 were the same height as the OEM springs being replaced. Definitely need the spring compressors to be able to start the retaining nut. Strut bearings were in good condition and were given some more lithium grease. It was a lot easier to get the upper strut mount into position and start the upper retaining nuts.

Using a rattle gun and another hydraulic trolley jack made the job a lot easier. 

Ride heights before and after are as follows:

Driver Front: 693mm / 713mm 

Passenger Front: 703mm / 727mm

Driver and Passenger Rear: 703mm / 718mm 

I went for a short test drive to a nearby roundabout on a service road. Wheel alignment looks to be the same based upon the driving wheel. I was not noticing that much of a difference in the handling until I realised that I was doing an extra 20kph through the roundabout. 

In summary, the struts definitely needed to be replaced. As expected, I am very pleased [initially] with the combination of the Sachs struts and King springs. However, I am more after a comfortable ride. 

I have had a similar issues with the adjustment of the rear parking brake shoes. Not so easy to use that adjuster. It made me appreciate how much easier is was to do the adjustment on my previous Honda.

Ended up removing the rear rotor then adjust and refit rotor. Too much adjustment and the rotor does not fit on. Repeat until just right, rotates freely.

Readjusting the foot brake in the cabin is another adventure. 

2 hours ago, Chippps said:

Random question, what's the best way to get the car up and under the engine?

Using car stands, hydraulic trolley jack, car ramp? 

I have found that using car ramps is the easiest and best to get the car off the ground with sufficient clearance to be able to do an oil change or an inspection. Just have to be careful that you do not drive over the top of the ramps. 

I am mainly using the hydraulic trolley jacks when I am removing a wheel.

Later today, I will be using a combination of car stands and hydraulic jacks when replacing the rear struts. 

Best to hook up an OBD II scanner to read the error codes.

Do an internet search of the error code/s for the possible underlying cause/s. 

4 hours ago, TommyM said:

1MZ's don't really blow head gaskets, but they sure destroy oil 😂😂😂

Hence why i'm trying an alternative to Mobil 1 0w40 with near or similar specs. 

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/HPR 5 5W-40 (Full Synthetic).pdf

Currently, eBay has a $10 off promotion.

Initially, I was going to buy the P&S Beadmaker which I had forgotten that I had already bought.

I looked at a YouTube video and that had the tip of using Beadmaker on the interior glass to reduce fogging. 

Ended up getting the P&S Xpress Interior Cleaner. 

Sounds like a good idea to me.

Lower head temperatures should help prevent or reduce potential of head gasket blowing. 

On 6/6/2020 at 8:17 AM, campbeam said:

SuperCheapAuto is having a 1 day only sale 06.06.2020 with 30% discount on Century Batteries.

55D23LMF is reduced from $200 to $140

75D23LMF is reduced from $240 to $168

Super Cheap Auto have started their Boxing Day Sale early. Century Battery Sale prices the same as quoted back in June 2020.

Club members can get an extra 5% off for today only 24.12.2020.

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I love the way they flick a switch & suddenly the prices become inflated for sales 😐 Pre sale it's $63.99 & during it's $67.99. It's so disappointing I'll but nothing.

Sparesbox is much cheaper with filters at at least, SCA have suddenly priced themselves out. Must be the Corona tax, Crazy.

 

I have learnt to include prices in my posts for future reference purposes.

Just looked at Super Cheap Auto website. Extra 5% off Today Only for Club Members.

1 hour ago, matt36415 said:

I wonder if the problem here is a bit of rubbing rather than just heat and pressure. Would love to see a replaced part to know why they fail

It is heat and pressure and the quality of the rubber hoses. The oil cooler pipes when they leak are replaced by Toyota.

It is a different matter for the rear VVTi oil pressure line which is no longer covered by Toyota. There was a Technical Service Bulletin released in 2008/2009? and a kit provided to the dealerships to replace the rubber mid-section with upgraded rubber specification hose section. This must have been a workaround until full metal pipe was able to be supplied. Due to the length of this pipe, you need to make sure that the mid-section is bolted to avoid potential breakage due to vibration.

Oil cooler pipes are a different. The OEM rubber hoses were of a higher specification. Yet they still developed seepage or a pin hole leak. 

I have already had the "joy" and expense of replacing the rear VVTi oil line.

In the meantime, I am keeping a watchful eye on these oil cooler pipes. 

@matt36415 Toyota must love you more than me to send you letters to come in for a replacement.

As general advice, I would be inclined to change the transmission fluid.

Most certainly get a new battery.

I would be inclined to also put it on a charger so that you know it is fully charged before fitting it in the vehicle. This should only take a number of minutes.

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Probably better to have got a set from the same Gen car but from a higher spec model for example.

In that case, the wheels would be 17 x 6.5 and tyres 225/65/R17

https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2007-toyota-kluger-grande-auto-awd-my06/SPOT-ITM-278325/