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campbeam

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  1. campbeam
    Still trying to work out how long the engine oil has not been changed in this YouTube video. Worst estimate is 65K but also possibly in the 45K-50K range. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjwNoLyr3SM
  2. campbeam
    I have seen this YouTube video before and had another viewing. Interesting because he is so NOT aware of how badly sludged up the engine was. Notice the amount of accumulated sludge on the oil filter cartridge. Also in his commentary towards the end, he mentioned about driving on the highway and getting a puff of smoke upon acceleration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZOZvFlSj2M He also mentioned about 7000 kms since the previous oil change. There is no mention about what oil he ends up using but the amount of accumulated oil sludge indicates that he really should be going for a shorter oil change interval. It would have been interesting to see the state of the PCV valve which probably could have done with a clean.
  3. campbeam
    I did a quick check up of the installation last Saturday. Oil separator bowl was given a wipe out with a few tissues and there was very little oil residue. What I did notice [again] is that the top of the oil catch can was quite warm. I assume that it is getting the heat from the airflow out of the valve cover. Anyway, I have bought another [cheap] catch can on eBay and will wait the few months for delivery from China. This one has a pressure gauge and no mention about being baffled. Expect that I will be inserting a tube to direct the incoming airflow to the bottom of the can.
  4. campbeam
    I will definitely be interested to have a read of that article. Perhaps it was written by John Cleese or Monty Python.
  5. campbeam
    That sounds unbelievable like a proven recipe for disaster. I checked the Lube Guides for Penrite and Nulon. Recommended oil for a 2016-2020 Kluger is either a full synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-30 oil
  6. campbeam
    I am currently using Shell Ultra 5W40. What I have noticed is that after less than 800km the oil has changed to a medium honey colour. I am putting this down to better additives for cleaning/removing oil sludge. Over the past 3 years I have been mainly using 10W40 SN semi-synthetic oils usually Penrite or Nulon.This is because I bought them on special. Now I have mainly full synthetic 5w30 or 5W40 on hand. Brands include Castrol, Shell Ultra, Penrite and Nulon.
  7. campbeam
    Nothing humble about my disagreement and this is why. https://www.automology.com/sludge-the-engine-killer/ My guess is that you are supplying a full synthetic engine oil to support an extended oil change interval.
  8. campbeam
    My yard care equipment refuses to start/run without 95. Lot to be said for being old school.
  9. campbeam
    I have not yet had to replace the engine mounts on my 2006 Aurion now with about 219K on the odometer. I bought it used with about 165K on the odometer. No problems with the top engine mount although I have been intending to reinforce it with Sikaflex. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sikaflex-sikaflex-auto-adhesive---227-150ml/284175.html#q=sikaflex&lang=en_AU&start=4
  10. campbeam
    When was the last time that you had the brake fluid changed or checked the brake pads? I have recently lubricated the brake caliper slider pins [on all calipers] to correct what I thought was a dragging brake on the rear passenger side. I used copper anti-seize grease but Bendix has this product. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/bendix-bendix-ceramic-disc-brake-lubricant-6g/323995.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5vXkrd3r6gIVVB0rCh3GQQeVEAQYAiABEgIUqvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Because I have not changed the brake fluid recently, I slightly loosened the breeder then pushed back the piston before re-tightening the bleeder. I spray cleaned the caliper then lubricated the slider pins. Reassembled then pumped the brake pedal and topped up the brake fluid reservoir. Repeated for the remaining brake calipers. This solved my issue and wheel rotates just as freely as the other side. Please let us know what the fix for your brake issue ended up being.
  11. campbeam
    When you start reading about fuel quality in Australia, it is lower quality with more permitted sulfur content. It explains why we do not get the latest generation Toyota engines which require better quality fuels. Eventually in the next few years, unleaded 91 will not be available. Also, I was of the belief that the additional power output of 203 or 204 KW was based upon 95 octane.
  12. campbeam
    Raining all day Saturday and this morning. Finally nice and sunny just in time for a Sunday nap.
  13. campbeam
    I hear and understand your frustration. For a few minutes on Saturday morning, I was in my own zone. Nice hot breakfast, refuelled the car and just driving at a slow pace with no cars behind. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few minutes so looking forward to a nice highway cruise away from the maddening crowd. In the meantime, I am doing lots of maintenance etc.
  14. campbeam
    I do agree. I usually run my Aurion on 91 unleaded especially when the petrol price is higher. Currently giving the engine a thorough clean out with the higher octane plus fuel additives. Also driving more for pleasure than for fuel economy. Good offset for the worries of our interesting times.
  15. campbeam
    Following YouTube video compares the Mishimoto compact baffled catch can [300 ml capacity] and its generic universal knock off https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvlujvwNOE8 For my engine [codenamed “Sludgy”] I wanted a larger capacity, taller baffled catch can to maximise the conversion of any oil vapours back to oil thus ending up with a 700 ml capacity can. It was advertised on eBay as being baffled but not so when I opened the can. Ended up fitting a plastic tube so that incoming oil vapour was directed to the bottom of the can. My thinking is that the air oil separator placed before the intake to the oil can will also act as a baffle. There are lots of other YouTube videos about oil catch cans but I do rather like this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aSfoPGBrXk Now that is a catch can. Main factor is finding a suitable place to mount the oil catch can in an accessible position given the space limitations under the bonnet.
  16. campbeam
    In Brisbane, the petrol pricing is now in its low cycle. I was planning upon filling up with 95 which is currently @ $1.189. Just spotted 98 @ $1.239 so maybe a change of plans.
  17. campbeam
    Tony, just as a benchmark, how long after an oil change is it before the oil changes colour to a light golden colour. I usually look at the both the dipstick and inside the valve cover where there is a guard near the oil filler cap opening.
  18. campbeam
    If you look at the ToyotaNation website, there are similar posts about transmission changes in 2019 Toyotas. Looks like there was a technical bulletin issued in the USA and the solution is for the dealer to update the transmission software.. Best to go to your Toyota dealer and get them to investigate.
  19. campbeam
    I use a spray can of degreaser to clean the PCV valve. Spray into the PCV valve, give it a few shakes then repeat. I idle the engine for 5 minutes to 10 minutes using the diesel to flush/clean the engine. I also drain the oil out of the filter housing cartridge as well. Main reason is that I can then tell how dirty the diesel gets from cleaning the internals of the engine. Anyway the oil capacity of the 2GR-FE engine is 6.5 litres but only uses 6.1 litres for an oil change. The other 0.4litres is presumably in the various oil lines. My thinking is that diesel is a light oil so there is enough lubrication for idling purposes for a short time. Like myself, you may have seen a YouTube video where the person has added oil with the diesel when flushing the engine. Just a different line of thinking, perhaps a more cautious approach.
  20. campbeam
    The good news is that the engine is not blowing smoke. The bad news is that2GR-FE engine is more prone to oil sludge build up compared to other modern engines. Regular oil and filter cartridge changes using quality brand oils are absolutely essential. If you want a longer oil change interval [7-10K kms] then definitely use a full synthetic oil. Your choice whether you use 5W-30 or 5W-40. In your case, I would be assuming the oil sludge is happening/has happened but not yet serious. 1. If the engine was blowing smoke, then definitely remove the valve cover and clean the baffles in the cover leading to the PCV. Otherwise, I would be inclined to leave it alone. 2. Definitely clean the PCV valve. Every time that I do an oil change, I do an engine flush using diesel. Essentially, drop the engine, replace with about 5 litres of diesel then idle engine for 5-10minutes. 3. No bad experiences with oil flushes using the diesel or commercial products [a few times]. Been doing this on my Aurion for the past 5 years. Been doing the diesel as an engine flush for 40+years on my various vehicles. In recent years, I have also added to the engine oil 500ml of diesel and later changed to adding 500ml of ATF to help desludge my engine. 4. Definitely clean the PCV valve. I recently did an engine oil change using 5W-40 full synthetic oil. After about 700 kms, it has already changed to light golden colour;.so not exactly happy. Added some ATF to the oil, cleaned the PCV valve and also installed an oil catch can together with the existing inline filter and oil separator. If you search, you will find the recent post with photos of this installation. Highly recommend adding either an oil catch can and/or an oil separator for your consideration.
  21. campbeam
    I am thinking that that is a fair assumption. One would think that the sock does the initial filter for any of the larger particles before getting to the fuel pump. Fuel filter will then take care of the much finer particles so that really clean fuel gets to the fuel injectors. Replacing the fuel filter is on my to do list along with checking/replacing the suspension struts. Certainly thinking of doing both tasks while the rear seat is removed. It should be interesting to see the state of the sock and the filter given that I have been using lots of additive to clean the fuel system.
  22. campbeam
    I have been thinking that the fuel pump got changed between the 40 and 50 series. Been looking on eBay but have not got a definite answer. Here is another question. Now that you have cleaned the strainer/sock for the fuel pump, do you really need to change the fuel filter. Maybe it can wait for another day, or not. Given your troubles, once you have the part, you will want to check that it fits.
  23. campbeam
    That aligns with my thinking that there must have been enough feedback to Ryco that they have now changed their current fitment guide for the Aurion 50 series to blank. A lot of sellers must still be using an outdated fitment guide. Ryco catalogue shows Z936 for the ASV50R Camry with the 2.5 litre engine. Just guessing but I would not be surprised that the fuel pump in the Aurion is larger/longer which your photos appear to indicate.
  24. campbeam
    I would think that this is a warranty issue to be fixed by the dealer at no cost to yourself apart from the inconvenience.
  25. campbeam
    Looks like you did clean the pick up screen as shown in this YouTube video. At least the 2 hours would not have been totally wasted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLDNQh0nYU0 Hope I do not run into the same issue when I get around to replacing the fuel filter on my 40 series Aurion.
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