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Everything posted by brickpaver

  1. I have just purchased a 2000 Corolla Ascent but I can not find the clock that I believe that it’s supposed to have on the dash. The owner manual isn’t very informative, Google not much help either and neither is anywhere else that I’ve looked. There IS a small shiny front black area, about 50mm x 15mm lower down, slightly left of centre on the dash that I believe is where a digital clock is supposed to be but this car doesn’t show one, nor are there any buttons there to set a clock if one WAS to show up there when the ignition is switched on. The factory fitted Toyota radio cassette doesn’t have a clock either. I even wondered if perhaps the clock wasn’t fitted to all their 2000 models, but nothing in the manual differentiates between any of the ‘basic’ features in the car. If that IS the case however, that the ‘Ascent’ model DOESN’T have a factory clock, then that will be it and I’ll stop looking.......but so far, I just can not find anywhere to clarify that possibility. Cheers. Lance.
  2. I want to upgrade from my 2011 Hilux SR V6 to either a 2WD SR Hi-Rider,...4WD SR or depending on the dollars, a SR5. My question is do I stay with petrol or go diesel. D4D (which I believe had expensive injector problems in their pre 2009 models) or the newer 2.8 motor. I would have very little use for a 4WD in my travels and notwithstanding the fuel consumption, I do like the V6 motor, but there are a lot more diesel Hi-lux’s around these days in the later models so I may be reluctantly pointed in the diesel direction whether I like it or not. I just don’t know which one. My first choice of course would be a later model SR Hi-Rider with the V6 petrol motor but I have no idea if that would be possible in the later models. I live in the near Barossa area of South Australia so very little of my driving is short stuff, with the odd Eyre Highway return trip across to least twice a year. Any advice would be welcome.
  3. Because of the restrictions and cost factor in fitting a lift kit above a 2” lift, to my 2011 SR,..with 15” wheels, I wonder if anyone can advise if it is viably possible to fit 17” wheels with perhaps bigger tyres, which theoretically could then give me an extra 2” or more of height /clearance. My reason being that on a recent trip over to Kalgoorlie and then 535 k’s east, along the trans access road to Rawlinna, Haig and then on to Kybo Station, it became apparent that I was having to slow down to dodge around more and more rocks on the track itself, where a bit more ground clearance would have made the trip far less of a worry about hitting something a mini boulder. I want to go back again to Kybo but then cut down south, across country fir about 150 kilometres to meet the Eyre Highway at Madura or Cocklebiddy. Would I be causing myself any grief or problems by changing to 17” wheels and bigger tyres. Cheers Lance.
  4. If you were in Adelaide the solution could be somewhat simple. There is a wreckers here that IS currently wrecking a gold 2003 Avalon Vxi Mark 3,..the identical same model as I have owned for the past seven faultless years and the seating in mine is about the most comfortable that I have ever sat in, if you CAN find one of the upper range Avalons being wrecked,..I would seriously look at the seating in one. If you can find a Grande being wrecked,...definitely take a look. Cheers
  5. My problem still remains the same. I have my spotties working okay,..I have them wired through a dash switch via the relay and down to the lights with the trigger live wire coming from the red high beam wire in back of one of my headlights,... which means that with the dash switch in the ‘on’ position my spotlights will come on when I hit high beam and will go off again when I hit low beam,...just as the law requires and just as every past negative earth vehicle has done for me in the past,...using the very same wiring and relay as I’m using on my 2011 Hilux now. My problem is still that if I leave that spotlight switch in the ‘on’ position when I turn OFF my headlights, the spotlights will immediately turn on,..even if I’ve been on low beam before turning the headlight lights off. This has NEVER happened to me before in any other vehicle that I have ever owned and I’m 77 now. Surely it’s GOT to be some sort of peculiarity in the Toyota Hilux wiring setup. 🤔 Cheers.........Lance.
  6. Ive just returned from a dirt road trip 550 klm’s east of Kalgoorlie, to Kybo station and back again yo Kalg, over 1100 klm’s of dirt road in my 2011 Hilux dual cab 2WD and while it performed exceptionally well over dirt roads that varied between very good to very rocky and ‘slow’, I stopped short of my intending to go on down the 160 klm’s south of Rawlinna / Haig, down the Cocklebiddy track to the Eyre Highway, because of the multitude of various size surface rocks on the ‘road’ itself and absolutely no phone contact should I break down. For future trips like this, I need one or two things...I either trade my 2WD for a 4WD with additional lift clearance,..... or I take the cheaper option of just fitting a lift kit to my 2WD, which at 129,000 k’s V6 and running like a well oiled top, would serve me just as well, as long as I keep out of deep water, mud,.. or bulldust. I could/would also need to fit bigger wheels and tyres,..perhaps 16” or 17” with tougher tyres. Could anyone give me some thoughts on my lift kit idea being a practical one or would I be creating a new problem fir myself? Also what could it cost to supply and fit a new lift kit. Thanks Lance.
  7. I think it will be a lost cause within this club for me to ever find an answer to this problem. ☹️
  8. Yep I was....that was a different set of spotties back then but with much the same problem now with these newly purchased ‘KING’ brand LED spotlights, which come with a complete wiring harness and plugs,.. much like a ‘plug and play’....supposedly to make the whole process a ‘walk in the park’. (Have a look at the 5 minute youtube on the wiring setup for fitting these lights to your 4WD) I’m aware of this problem but very much doubt that the wiring harness is a contributing cause, as the ‘problem’ itself is exactly the same as the last pair of lights almost two years ago. The lights and the relay in both cases are perfectly fine but it's the way that the hilux wiring is arranged that is the problem. Everything would work as it should if the spotlights didn’t come back on as soon as the ignition is switched off with the spotlights switch still in the ‘on’ position........THAT was the problem two years ago and that is the SAME problem now........I just need to know how to counter or get around this hilux ‘gliche’? as the the spotlights WONT come on again as soon as I turn my vehicle ignition off,.......with the spotlight switch still in the ‘ON’ position. It must surely have been the same problem to other Hilux owners because of the similar complaint comments that show up on the youtube ‘KING’ spotlight setup video. Somebody must surely have worked out how to get around this one.
  9. Does anyone happen to have or happen to know anything about the headlight wiring setup on a 2011 Hilux. The usual method is to run a constant live lead to the relay, another lead from the spotlights, back through the switch on the dash, with the other side of the switch, back to the ‘S’ side of the relay, with a wire from the ‘L’ side of the relay down to connect to the vehicle high beam wire..... meaning that when switched ‘on’, the spotlights will only come on when headlights are on high beam and even if the spotlights switch is left in the on position, the spotlights SHOULD still turn off when the vehicle headlights are switched off ( even if I was only on low beam and spotties off).......... for some reason, my Hilux will not do this. If I turn off my headlights and the spotlight switch is still ‘on’, spotlights will instantly come back on,...which can be embarrassing and awkward when in a built up area or not out on the open road. I have just fitted a pair of new 9” Kings spotlights, which came with it’s own complete wiring harness and relay, supposedly to simplify fitting and connecting the whole thing up and while the fitting itself was quite simple, it is doing exactly the same as the original set of spotties were doing, they are coming on at the wrong time, in this case coming on on low beam instead of high beam and coming on when the headlights are switched off. There is obviously a different wiring loom setup in the Hilux that is different to other negative earth vehicles. For some strange reason, the high beam globe contacts at the back of the light have TWO red wires feeding it instead of what I thought would be just one wire. I can’t help thinking that this type of loom setup may be a cause of my problem(s).? How do others hook up spotlights to run just off the high beam and NOT still when the headlights are turned OFF. Cheers.
  10. I’m going to try once more to see if I can get any help from this forum, with occasional issues with my 2003 Avalon Vxi, because so far it would seem that almost nobody else seems to drive an Avalon. Can ANYONE at all throw some light on HOW do I remove the indicator assembly from the steering column and is it possibly a simple fix or do I need to replace the unit itself,...I’m okay with whichever option works best. My headlights now stay permanently on low beam, with the high beam refusing to come on or even give any indication that they’re even TRYING to come on. The high beam connection in the blinker unit itself is not even making ANY contact so as to feed power to the high beam. The dash high beam indicator light doesn’t even come on now either. Obviously I need to remove the blinker column unit itself so I need to know how to do that......and one final question, do any of the Camry models happen to use the very same blinker unit, so as to maybe simplify my finding a replacement part or do I need to get the exact same replacement. Thanks on advance, Lance
  11. Gday Dean, I just spotted your post and you seem to have the same problem in your 2002 model as I’m having in my 2003, high beam. If you have a read of my few posts you’ll get a bit of the progression with how mine went from working as normal, beginning to flicker off and on a few times before I went back to low beam before high beam went off all together while I was driving. Now after flicking off and on even more,..they have now stopped working completely and even the high beam wont even kick in so as to not work,..(if that makes any sense). If I hit high beam before it would go to high beam before immediately going off,..back on,.. off again,..etc, etc before staying off and in darkness. Now it wont even do that,..the low beam stays on the whole time despite my several attempts at still trying to flick to high beam, where nothing happens I'm now 99% sure, having checked everything else, including replacing the headlight relay, that the fault is almost certainly in the dipper unit on the column. Either a ‘dirty’ contact or a ‘broken’ contact inside the dipper itself. I would LOVE to get a dipper switch fitted to the floor above my left foot, just as we used to have but I don’t know how difficult that would be. All I need to do now is find out how to get in to the column and get the existing dipper unit out so I can test it and/or replace it. Hope that helps,.....Cheers. Lance.
  12. I recently related the periodic problem with my Avalon high beam constantly cutting off and back on again. Ive checked every possible related connection and even replaced the headlight relay in the hope of sorting it out and while I initially thought that the new relay had ‘fixed’ my problem, it later turned out that this was not the case and not only did it go back to again my constantly losing my high beam, now does not turn the high beam on at all. Unfortunately there seems to be virtually all but no-one in this forum who is able to advise me on cause possibilities and possibly how to fix the problem. It has only ever been the high beam itself that has been affected,....low beam and every other light and piece of electrical bits and pieces are totally UNaffected, with all other lights working exactly as they should. For this reason, I have come to the conclusion that the only logical cause now appears that it MUST be the headlight / dipper switch column assembly as the culprit. Nothing else comes to mind as making any sense. I’ve looked on youtube, hoping to find instructions on how to remove, check and refit / replace the Australian 2003 Avalon headlight/dipper switch but no actual instructions seem to be there. I've never done one of these before so does anyone know and can give me the basic instructions or do I regrettably need to go to an auto electrician, at around $135 an hour to test and do it all for me,...IF of course the dipper switch IS the cause of the problem. Cheers, Lance.
  13. I have the 2003 Avalon (Absolutely love it)...and just recently, my left side power window, while I could put it up or down from my drivers side control bank and could be put DOWN from the left side armrest control, it could not be put back UP again from the left hand passenger side armrest control. This turned out to be the armrest control itself needing to be replaced. I don’t know if there is a common ‘live’ connection going to your drivers side control that might power all those things, including your central locking,..(don’t see a clock control coming from that feed though) but it might be worth a look. I would also be double RE-checking your fuses and relay boxes as well because for so many electrical components to go at exactly the same time, certainly sounds like just one central cause and that’s where the fuses and relays would definitely be first on my check list...... if it was anything else then surely just about everything else electrical would cut out as well. Cheers, Lance.
  14. Thanks Ashley. I did actually have a brand new alternator fitted almost a year ago and everything has still gone on working fine ever since then so I can rule that out as causing any conflict. The reality to me though is that because this problem,..intermittent as it is,...does not even remotely affect any other light or the other electrics in the entire car,..ONLY the high beam. whereas,..the interior lights (five of them),..the dash lights and parking lights, the radio, the GPS, anything plugged in to the lighter socket, the glove box light, door open lights at the bottom of the four doors,....ALL remain on and completely unaffected at the same time as tge high beam is doing its on /off flicker thing. As I said, it has ALL the earmarks of being a faulty or overloaded relay and yet, even though I have replaced that relay, the problem remains. Frustration still reigns within. 😟
  15. Awhile back, (6 months ago) I posted about the high beam in my 2003 Avalon going off and back on again, which I later thought that I had fixed by replacing the relay. I haven’t needed to use high beam too often since then and each time has been okay,..even after driving for awhile. Last night however, out of the blue, it started doing it again as soon as I hit high beam, only a couple of minutes after taking the car out, the high beam began the off and on again, repeatedly until I clicked back ti low beam and stayed there. Several times this happened. It is almost certainly a ‘high beam only’ wiring or connection fault somewhere and nowhere else because none of the other electrics in the car are ever affected, including parkers and low beam.. I was certain that it was the headlight relay as it had all the signs of an overloaded relay which had seemed fine for the past few weeks,....until now. All obvious connections....,.battery, alternator, headlights, etc have been checked and secure and every other electrical component working correctly as they should,’s just these random times only when I hit high beam that it happens. Common logic to me says that if it WAS a general wiring connection fault, then other electric components would be affected as well but they’re not. My gut feeling also is that it isn’t the column cluster either. To me it STILL has ALL the earmarks of being the headlight relay at fault so unless Ive inadvertently replaced the wrong relay,,..??..but I checked that first too, by noting the relay box diagrams and removing and replacing the relay to double check that I had the correct one. It sounds like a simple fix which I still just can’t find ....yet,......but I still don’t feel like paying an auto electrician $125 an hour minimum fee either for him to just go fishing for something that seems so simple. This is made a bit harder by the fact that the high beam will spasmodically stay on indefinitely, while at other times it will do the flick off and on and off and on again right from the start...... None of the wiring in the car has ever been touched anyway so it's not as if any connections have been disturbed by other work being done. If only the high beam would STAY off when it goes off,... then it would no doubt be easier to trace a single fault,... but it won’t do that, it comes back on again. So damn frustrating............I hope someone can add a theory or two. Cheers,....Lance.
  16. Thanks Gary, Yep, those options were my first thought and may very well be my next move,... ONCE i find out how to remove the speedo/gauges cluster first of course and then get in behind for a look. Thats where Ive wondered if the same year 2011 SR5 dash would drop straight in....and plug atraight in. (IF I could find a SR5 cluster of course and even that has been a hopeless task so far). Apparently there IS a way of connecting up a dimmer switch in to the purpose included blank spot on the lower right of the dash but I've yet to find that one out. I believe that some of the wiring loom, including ths dimmer, DOES have blanked off wires,..blanked off for the SR but naturally used in the SR5. (70’s Ford used to do that between their Falcon 500 and their Fairmont models.) I'll see if I can remove the dash cluster. Cheers.
  17. My apologies for bringing this topic up again. I raised it in here about a year ago but so far, still no success. The instrument cluster in my 2011 SR is almost impossible to read at a glance in daylight and even running on daytime headlights in the hope of reading the speedo or odometer at a glance is also next to hopeless, taking a good few seconds to re-adjust the eyes after looking out the windscreen . The speedo is so recessed in to the cluster that outside daylight puts the whole thing almost in to its own shadow, despite the vehicle lights being ‘on’ in an attempt to mame things brighter. No dimmer adjustment either with the fixed setting being only about 2/3rds brightness. For the life of me I will never understand why Toyota let such a comparably expensive vehicle be sold without having either a brighter fixed dash illumination, a brightness control (it has neither of these) or a decent cluster illumination setup, such as IS in the SR5. Toyota have apparently finally ‘seen the light’ in their 2014 and following models and HAVE given the SR a decently illuminated dash, not before time either because the previous SR models are next to useless in daytime. Does anyone know of a simplified method of either making the dash lighting much brighter or if the 2014 (or the SR5) dash cluster will interchange with the 2011 model. Cheers........Lance.
  18. Thanks Gary, that gives me a bit more insight. I don't have a problem in driving as slow as necessary if road conditions require that. As someone else has said the same thing to me as well and if I have to get down to crawl speed then I will happily get down to crawl speed. I did three trips last year between Kalgoorlie and Karonie (117 k’s each way) and apart from a rougher stretch on the last 30 k’s to Karonie, it WAS a fairly easy 60 to 80 kph road. Ive never been any further east than Karonie and when I got asked if I'd like to join one or two other Hi-lux’s (4WD’s) on this trip, up from near Cocklebiddy to Haig and then along the trans road to Kalgoorlie next March, I virtually jumped at it,....explaining at the same time that I only had a standard 2WD Luxy, to which I've been assured that taking it slow where necessary will avoid any dramas. The photo is my hilux on the trans access road, about 80k’s out fom Kalgoorlie in 2017 At least a convoy of three is better than a lone treck of one and I don't think I would do it on my own anyway. I do have truck tyres on the ute, the same tyres as my Kal to Karonie trips last year and I have two spare wheels as well so I would hope that they would be adequate. Fortunately too, is the advantage of having Telstra towers right along the transline, as well as at Cocklebiddy, should mobile phone contact be needed. Weight will be down to a minimum. Couple of blankets. Spare wheels, tools, other spare stuff, waeco frudge/freezer and cooking stuff, should cover it......I'll come back to Adelaide then on the bitumen. 😄 Cheers Lance
  19. I don't know if this is a normal sort of thing but is it possible (or advisable) to fit a lift kit to my 2011 Hilux SR 2WD. I’m going back over to WA next year and planning on some dirt travel from the Eyre Highway at Cocklebiddy, up to the trans railway line and then to follow the trans access road i to Kalgoorlie. i know that the trans access road is okay for the ute, having done some of it three times last year but rge track between Haig diwn to the Eyre Highway at Cocklebiddy is somewhat unknown at this stage, even though some have told me that it's okay if it's taken carefully. I just wonder if a lift kit would give me a maybe necessary greater ground clearance. Cheers. Lance.
  20. As far as I can see, it appears to be a ‘stand alone’ unit...separate to the radiator itself.
  21. I have the 2003 Avalon Vxi, ..the model below the Grande apparently with all the bells and whistles except the sunroof and the GPS dvd/radio. Everything else in this car is absolute peaceful luxury and I wholeheartedly concur with you in singing its praises. Its only just hit 148,000 k’s and I just LOVE driving to your question. I have a 17 foot Jayco poptop with a tare weight of just over 1200 kg and by the time we minimally load up for a family of four, that weight will sneak up to between 1450 and 1500 kg. In spite of having had the Jayco for six years now, circumstances have been that we have only taken it away three times from our home in Adelaide. to Mt. Gambier,..Pt. Pirie and Broken Hill. I do have a transmission cooler on the Avalon which I always believed to be standard, even though the car never had a tow bar or electric brake controller on it until I had them fitted,.... but now after reading the previous replies here, I’m beginning to wonder if mine may have been fitted by the previous one elderly owner,.....I will never know. The point however is that the Avalon towed the loaded van beautifully, including the continual climb up the Mt. Barker Road to Crafers before the road began to level out again. I never got below 65 kph going up that hill and the overall fuel average over the entire return trip was still 17 mpg (I still calculate in the old imperial mpg method)..quite good for towing that weight behind me but then, once we were up on a steady 80/90 kph, the van towed like it was on rails, as if it wasnt even there. No harm to the trans and of course no overheating either. The same positive outcomes also applied to the orher two trips away. The Avalon performed to perfection and smooth quiet comfort,....the ideal long distance tow vehicle.
  22. Thanks for the reply Ashley. i think that by the fact that ALL the lights and dash lights go off and then back on together, I can safely rule out the globes and fuses themselves, particularly as it’s only the high beam doing this occasional off / on again hiccup. Battery terminals are fully tightened, as are the alternator connections as well. I do know that an overloaded headlight relay will cut lights out but Ive had this car 7 years, nothing has been changed with the lights or electrical system, other than a brand new alternator being fitted 2 years ago and everything apart from these three instances spread over about 2 or so weeks works perfectly. It’s going to be a frustrating elimination process trying to find the cause because all the obvious search points have been eliminated and as I said, paying an auto electrician $125 an hour to search the obvious, doesn't do a lot for my limited pension bank balance. My last resort will of course be an auto electrician but in the meantime, I will just have to drive around on low beam.while I keep searching. Cheers Lance
  23. Just in the last few weeks when driving at night in my 2003 Toyota Avalon and when I have gone from low to high beam headlights, there has occasionally been a one second pause of no lights at all (including dash lights, which would also include thepark lights) before high beam has flickered once and then come on,....and stayed on. I have been able to go back to low beam quite normally but when I went to high beam again, the same one second and flicker delay repeated itself again. I live in country South Australia and because low beam seemed okay I just drove the rest of the way home on low and parked the car, intending to look at it or find someone the following day For the following couple of weeks however, the problem didnt show itself and the headlights behaved quite normally between both beams........but that was until last night as I drove the dark single lane Thiele Highway between Kapunda and Freeling,...I went from low to high beam again and suddenly ALL the lights went off, which is NOT good at night on a black country road and suddenly unable to see a single thing and to see if there was anywhere to pull over off the road. i was starting to worry, when the headlights suddenly came back on again, to low beam so I drove the remaining 17 k’s home on low beam. Ive wriggled all the wires around this morning but with no effect and I cant imagine there suddenly being a fault in the steering column stalk that houses the high/low beam switch. Does the Avalon have factory fitted headlight relays because a ‘relay fault’ would be one if my first thoughts on a cause but the fact that I lose ALL the lights at the same time when I hit high beam, seems to kill that theory. Surely the parkers, wouldn't be affcted by a headlight relay. I’m trying to avoid going to an auto electrician and be up for $125 an hour for him to go ‘fishing’ fir a fault. Cheers Lance.
  24. Thanks Conrod. I did actually have the same thought, that there would be taped up wiring in back there somewhere. I need to gently remove the dash and have a look. Cheers