ZZT86

Nice work as always Tony, now using the new oil filter I see 😉 I serviced my car just last Thursday as it was almost due & now I'm using this new filter also, curious to know how it will fare compared to the previous part number. I presume it will be fine. I actually would love to do an interim check at say 2K kms & wonder if oil would drain out if I unscrewed the canister without draining the oil ? If memory serves the canister sits virtually in line with the sump, if not higher so undoing the canister would allow oil to leak out ? With those discs just get them machined on car for a perfect re-finish. Torque down each wheel bolt to prevent warping. I spray clean my oil canister with brake cleaner, perfect job every time inside & out 😉

@Henstepper I'm wondering what is the history of your vehicle ? Have you owned it since new? Has it been involved in an accident ? It's very odd that a windscreen washer pump should fail.

I'm guessing if it's just a filter then fine, if you messing with the MAF sensor & its positioning then you potentially be altering the car's emissions & that's illegal. Those cold air intakes often produce negative results compared to stock intakes, they're hardly worth considering really.

O2 sensor could do it or a multitude of other faulty sensors or damaged wiring even. A scan read of the cars onboard computer will tell you more info & roughly where to look.

@Henstepper Yep it's a tight fit the 2GR given it's a FWD setup, I get it, if it were a Lexus GS it would be a rear wheel drive setup making it much easier for servicing, but hey it's a quality 3.5 V6 & they're a dying breed so be greatful you have one 😉 . There are many people out there who are fairly unsatisfied with the current trend of gutless tiny turbocharged motors on big heavy cars which clearly aren't up to the task, especially if you load up the vehicle with people & luggage. The Aurion can at least be driven sedately & return good economy with the bonus of lasting several lifetimes if serviced correctly. Not to mention smooth, powerful & quiet.

"Dodgy brother" method can work if done well. I commented in other thread Ash linked to above but essentially clean well & layer hi-temp oil resistant RTV, let dry for a day each layer until you build up a good barrier to prolong it's life. Don't drive it until the job is finished. I used this exact method on my haciroku years ago for a typical systemic assembly line failure with the Subaru motor where almost every FA-20 had the oil leak from the timing cover in exactly the same spot. A crude repair I cared not because it worked, then Subaru in their infinite wisdom decided all FA-20's of the era should have new valve-springs & so the engine had to come out for a partial teardown which included removing the timing cover 🙄

Oil leaks are annoying if they ever pop up, even small leaks. I profess to being a member of that exact "dodgy brother" remedy & it works if done properly. Ideally make sure no oil is directly above where leak coming from otherwise drain it, super clean & degrease the area with wax & grease remover and/or brake cleaner then coat well with hi-temp oil resistant RTV & let dry for a day or two, refill (if drained) & drive. If you apply RTV in layers to build up a good barrier I think will prolong its life ;)

This has the potential to open a real bad can of worms . . . .

A timely video about counterfeit parts. The oil filter in question is Toyotas new replacement part for the 2GR-FE motor - 04152-YZZA1 (but has 15613-YZZA1 printed on the filter itself - odd), of which I bought a box of 10 the other day from my supplier 😐 I have bought many boxes of 10 over the years from him & he assures me they're 100% genuine but I need to confirm it, just to be sure as I've never seen a Toyota filter crumble like that before. Thanks Rob 👍

Incredible how clean it is, the inside almost looks new which is a feat in itself - well done. Nice head unit ;)

If you can hear motor going one way & not the other suspect the switch at fault. I'm also not sure if there's a micro switch at the end of each travel to tell the computer it's all the way down or up which might also be faulty. A repair manual or someone with Tarago experience would help here.

Depends on how it's designed & for what purpose. Fuel, engine, kerb weight & gearing all play a part in how they go & feel. I've driven diesel cars that go like the clappers.

As Ash has explained, you need to modify your driving style. The Aurion is a cinch of a car to drive smoothly & quickly, so you either have mechanical issues regarding takeoff in the tranny department or your right foot is way too heavy. I suspect the tyres aren't flash for grip but it should still have no issues dealing with the momentous torque the Aurion gives those front tyres. Personally I have no issues whatsoever driving my car smoothly & efficiently in the wet with my thick soled shoes on let alone barefoot. Not even with my old OE & poorly worn Turanzas. And although very expensive, the Michelins are brilliant. ps: the main reason why I pay more for tyres is for the life saving grip ability in all conditions like emergency braking, if at all possible everyone should aim for same 😉

I think you will find most cars are setup that way. You could always see an engineer who makes & modifies car seat rails to suit.

FWD with no lsd. What sort of tyres does it have ? Old or newish ? I can vouch for the Michelin PS4 as very sticky & will only loose traction if I give it the beans from stand still which I never do. Best to feed the power using your right foot 😉

Every time I wash my car, usually every 2-3 weeks (depends on weather), I raise the bonnet to chamois all the accumulated water on the edges etc & it is here that I do my visual checks. If coolant is missing it will certainly be obvious, same with brake fluid & engine oil to a lesser extent since I already know it doesn't use any. Every 2 weeks minimum is a good time frame for a quick sticky-beak regardless 😉

Supa clean top end of the engine, if only the owner kept an eye on the coolant level & acted once noticing it missing. I love SpeedKar, so much knowledge on Toyota motors & great informative videos.

I want AMD's shop 😍

Me too 😍

As per usual, our crappy Aussie infrastructure of anything is incapable of delivering anything. EVs imho are a dumbass idea unless completely green, I mean what's the point of charging your so called green automobile with coal powered energy ? Then there's the massive hole in the ground we need to dig to make the damn things in the first place - what a green idea 😕 How long do those batteries last ? Then there's the ridiculous cost . . . . .

What sort of cam is it ? Some cams do not have park mode recording & the unit must be hardwired to the car so the dashcam can be setup up within it's own menu to record whilst ignition is off. There should also be voltage settings you need to adjust which shouldn't be too low otherwise the unit will just shut down & not record at all.

Although I agree with JC & the fact that paint shouldn't ever peel off if done properly, I've never seen it happen before, especially on a Toyota. My sis has a 2013 RAV4 Cruiser with white paint & the car still looks like new. An old family friend on ours gets a new Camry every 3 or so years & they're all boring white & none had paint issues. Sounds like poor quality control from brand T's white paint primer supplier. I'm not sure how their factories are setup but suspect the same robots in that same production line spray the paint, whatever colour that may be so that should rule out the factory being the cause of end issue. What's really baffling is that it's taken so long for them effectively realise all of this. Regardless, Toyota needs to make good as I'm sure they will.

As Tony has mentioned, would be lovely to see what the target alignment #'s are for your new setup as many in the industry have no idea & are only drip fed the often incorrect factory info which is displayed on the monitor in front of them. Did you also have the "brittle" dampers & nervous steering on your GSV50R series1 driving on average roads ? Sounds promising though as you're not the first to have done an adjustable castor offset up front with a heftier rear sway bar 😉 Many thanks for the writeup 👍

I've heard that if you see it about to happen, the body naturally tenses up to prevent whiplash etc, if relaxed then more bodily harm could be done. My current thoughts on this are if a collision is inevitable, letting the car absorb the full impact means leaving your foot off the brakes & letting it roll forward = softer collision. If you can't see the tyres of the car in front then most likely a second impact will occur. An impact at 100km/h would most likely be a write-off.

Food for thought . . . . https://www.goauto.com.au/news/industry-news/hydrogen-ready-for-mainstream-use-says-study/2022-06-22/88215.html