ZZT86

Yes, ethanol is a great cleaning solvent. In your case you may want to let it dwel for a while & then take to it with a brush - worth trying 👍

Yuk ! Not the worst I've seen but yeah, I feel your pain given your very considerable effort thus far. You should try cleaning using ethanol or E85, here are 2 pics of my 9 year/95K km old Hachi fuel filter canister after a life mostly running E85.

Yep except I test drive my car's after I do the work to prove its ok before I button everything & close her up. Not being satisfied with one test drive, I did another the following day & I almost instantly smelt the fumes. I filled the tank up the previous night & after deliberately trying to slosh the fuel about violently via quick left right steering manoeuvres & sudden braking she leaked & leaked well. Easy fix 👍

Thank You Tony, very detailed & informative as always. In fact I think you hit the nail directly on the head regarding the flushing method for cars which are poorly looked after. Those cars will definitely experience ATM issues when it goes from a coked up fluid which becomes assistive in gear changes to a brand new fluid which may cause clutch slip. Our cars are hardly going to experience that, at least that you & I think. I will flush as per previous plans, should be just dandy :) Actually I've been damn lazy for quite a while, I blame it on covid & lockdowns for months, sick to death of it all really. But now that I'm free I can't be bothered, or as they say "cbf" 😐 At least I did the fuel filter canister in the 86 the other day including 4xO-Rings which I had in stock, which is damn similar to the Aurions setup so I know what to expect there when it comes time to doing that. Pretty easy in the end, similar to all the other in-tank canisters I've done in Celicas & Camrys except for the big fat locking ring on top which holds it all down as opposed to a ******* load of bolts (which I prefer) & the filter in a basket type arrangement as opposed to just a canister where everything just hangs off it. Overkill imo, for whatever reason. ps: the locking ring needs to be damn tight otherwise there will be a fuel leakage. Ask me how I know this 🙄

Interesting views on ATF fluid change practices. I'm guessing he don't recommend full flushes then but rather a drain & refill @ 50-80K kms? What if the car is still newish & the clutches have hardly worn to negate suspended debris assistance, ie: no clutch wear & new fluid ? What about potentially overheated fluid ? I don't have a great deal of experience when it comes to Automatics except for my previous MCV20R Camry. And throughout it's 18 years it had it's ATM serviced often & at 16 years when I purchased it I did a full flush on it & can only say good things for the shift feel & the way it performed mechanically, although it had only traveled a mere 130K kms. How's your Aurion going @Tony Prodigy ? Great heads up also relating to Coolant & what's really happening when it starts to degrade. Now I'm real keen on one of them acidity testers to keep an eye on the coolant. My Aurion service book is calling for the fluid to be changed @ 150K kms or 90 months which seems like an awfully long time when it was 40K kms in my Celica 😐 Struth - SLLC.

THIS is the cheapest I've ever seen this oil . . . . very tempting but I already have too much stock

Yep check battery terminals are clean & tight, earth strap, then the globe connections themselves, if you wiggle them & they flicker on/off then it would be at fault.

Your owners manual should tell you how much, otherwise I would fill till it starts to spill back out & it's done, on a flat/level ground. Check that is doesn't have a separate diff which also need filling.

Dude, I would seriously consider getting your cars & home exterminated for pests if you have redbacks crawling about. And I know it might have been more dosh but you should have bought a Century battery = Made in Australia ;)

Last time I checked Aisin was a company owned by Toyota so you'd think it be a safe bet for part quality.

If the price of an EV6 dropped to well below $50K, I would seriously consider swapping my Aurion. Having said that, these EV's of today are too new for my liking & I love my Aurion so I'm hoping the cost of fuel drops back to it's usual $1.30-1.40/L. ps: EV6 wait times are pathetic 😐

Brent crude has plummeted to under $100 in last 2 days from it's $130 highs, here's hoping it crashes some more 🙏

S/C members get an extra $10 off if you spend $50 or more, I ended getting two 6L bottles which effectively only cost me $34.99 ea - bargain! I do change out the oil pretty often in my car as I pile on the kays but I'm also starting to run out of room in my garage to store the stuff 😜

Nulon 5W30 Full Synth SN/GF5 6L $39.99 as of tomorrow @ Supercheap 😀

Can vouch it's a good product 👍

@geebenza How many clicks ? Has the cam bolts ever been changed ? If bolts are broken lift will not work or work intermittently.

Only issue I can see with current Camry is that it's a lot lower to the ground than previous designs so if you got a dodgy back it's going to be that much harder getting in/out of. Oddly designed in my opinion, too many shapes all over the shop but a rippa car nonetheless. A 2GR-FKS would be the cars highlight, just as the 2GR-FE is in our Aurions, it's what makes these cars special, imo 😉

Drive at least 30min in & around town rather than fwy as you're inclined to get more heat soak into the tranny faster, then park it on flat garage surface & check whilst it's running. Check the dipstick 3 or more times to confirm level & adjust.

$7.90 a unit is dirt cheap, I would still prefer to pay double, triple even especially considering how often it gets changed out vs the critical work at stake that being protecting your expensive 2GR motor. Oil & filter are two items one should never skimp on if you expect a long life of the engine.

Ok, but I can highly recommend Camberwell 😉

Fair chance the dealer will know exactly what to do by now with these so you should be right & have it done properly. Where abouts are you - Melb ?

Actually back in May 2019 when my car had the engine out for the dreaded valve spring issue I asked - it was $155/hr+gst ! Whilst the engine was out I had the plugs replaced free of charge, but they did sting me $42 a pop - ouch ! I know they're not that expensive but I didn't argue, they did a great job with the engine work & they also replaced the throw out bearing, checked the coilplugs & the clutch whilst they were at it. Car has been faultless since, not that there was anything wrong with it, just that I know some of the work done on other cars by other dealers landed the owners in deep $*#@%t with a blown engine. Some techs just can't follow instructions.

Last time I saw a dealer RO the labour was $150/hr+gst !

Rough guestimates: Supply Fuel filter & change: $250-350 Dump & flush ATM: Assume connected to machine for proper dump/flush: $250min Supply & fit Spark Plugs: $250-350 (doable without raising motor) Most of that is easy DIY otherwise it costs in labour time & parts.

Colour & odour of oil should give you a clue 😉