T_Money

Hey man If you install a transmission cooler you will never have the problem again. $150 of parts and the problem goes away.

In my experience the battery always seems to be a pretty constant 12v source...

you been under water recently. The Don is right it is either the Spigot bearing or front gearbox bearing. They have a habit of shtting themselves once the bell housing fills up with water if you get stuck in a creek for a little too long :P

good thing i backed up my comment by stating personal opinion only Steve! :P i still don't see the need for a chip. a hilux will never be fast even if it is chipped. at lest the exhaust is a safe option. EGT's will always be less with a free flowing exhaust. Should make the engine safer!

if you dont want to do any crazy 4x4 ing no need to modify it.

Aftermarket chips which claim more power and fuel savings are not worth the risk. Most chips increase fuel pressures in a system which already runs 22,000psi in the common rail. The longevity of the pumps and seals running at these pressures are somewhat untested and as such not really worth thinking about (personal opinion only) best thing you can get for a hilux is a nice free flowing exhaust. makes a world of difference and doesn't hurt the engine.

http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/lc_trj12/rm/rm1151e/m_05_0486.pdf Toyota diagnostic article for your error codes

Are you running a chip in your car? These are common fault codes for D4D engines that have been chipped with those chips which play with fuel pressure increases only as opposed to fuel pressure and injection duration as well. P0087 = Fuel Rail Pressure too low P0191 = Fuel Rail Pressure sensor fault If a styandard D4D engine could well be the fuel rail pressure sensor that is buggered and giving low fuel pressure signals to the ecu and then entering into limp mode. Could be a faulty common rail pump (hope for you that it is not that as they are not cheap). either way if ti is the sensor you cant just buy the sensor separately, you have to buy the whole common rail which is around $1600 from toyota. Best bet is to take it along to your Toyota dealer or a good diesel mechanic and get them to diagnose. either way there is an issue with some component of the injection system so worth getting it fixed. driving around with leaning out diesel engine is a good way to cause overheating and blown engines.

I have an oil filter remover you can have if you want to come down to Yatala and get it. but in all seriousness - use a screw driver - not worth the petrol coming down to the deep dirty south to pick it up. as for the rocker cover do them up tight and you will be fine so long as the gasket is not broken or perished. every bolt in the car has a specified torque - doesn't mean you need a torque wrench to do them all up.

are you putting on a rocker cover or a head mate? if its just a rocker cover torque of the bolts is not all that important. do them up so they are reasonably tight and you will be fine. As for the oil filter - hammer a screwdriver into it from the side and use to to screw it off. it will be a little messy but it will get it off.

Sounds like the turbo is rooted mate. Can be something a simple as the solenoid that changes the variable veins on the turbo (stepper motor) has packed it in or perhaps a coupling has come loose and is blowing your precious boost around the engine bay (you would generally here this though. best way to determine if there is an issue is to get along to a mechanic with an OBDII reader and see if any error codes are being thrown. sometimes clearing these codes fixes the problem. other option is to do a full reset of your ECU and see if the problem is gone. either way hope it isn't your turbo as a genuine unit from toyota is around $4500 + GST

the transfer case is the 78's are notoriously sticky. just needs a bit of force to get it in to low-range the first time. Also make sure you are completely stopped, clutch is in and you are in neutral and it should go in a treat

I would just disconnect the battery - stomp on the brake pedal to drain the electrical system and reconnect everything. that will reset the CEL. in my experience the main reason hilux's go into limp mode is due to excessive engine knock from faulty injectors. Is your lux blowing a lot of black smoke and very noisy when cold?

sure does

not a bad price at all. the coils as a part cost around $1600 + GST so add fitting and your $30 extenderd and you have done fairly well.

sounds more like a sticking caliper to me. explains the pulling to the right and the smoke from the pads. very ahrd to belive a bearing would create enough heat to melt itself to the hub but i guess ti is possble.

All Australian 2ZZs run the 6-speed C6x transmission (C60 in the Celica, C64 in the Corolla I believe)), not the 5-speed C52. glad someone knows that im going on about.

Hey Buddy, They are a great car - I miss having one every day. All Aus 7th gens are 2ZZ's and therfore do not have an electronic throttles so no worries there. Like the corolla sportivo's the C52 gearboxes are the weakest links in these cars. Syncros in 2nd and 3rd seem to get a flogging and degrade if they have too much 1st-2nd action in lift. Reconditioned gearbox will set you back about $2000. Apart form that so long as they have had regular servicing they will last forever. Mine had 200k on it when sold and still pulled hard. im my opinion i think the 7th Gen Celica is one of the best set up FWD chassis out there (behind renault clio sports and megans).

Braked towing capacity of the Kluger is 2000kg so no issues there. SO long as you are willing to get about 300km out of a tank of fuel, Kluger will be fine :)

Although tough, the auto's are not that well suited to towing decent loads in overdrive. The manual is right in saying use 3rd for towing, like 4th in the petrol models, 3rd in the 4 speeds is a 1:1 ratio which essentially keeps the torque converter locked at all times. This is much easier on the transmission as opposed cruising around in O/D when the converter us in a constant state of slippage. One thing you may think about investing in is this: Clicky Here It is an aftermarket torque converter lock up. You would be able to tow in O/D no worries but would not get any slip, hence saving the transmission. Side affect of this is power delivery from 2000rpm might be a little slower. No reason you cant just knock it into 3rd to get up a hill though. Also like the article says, don't leave it engaged when coming to a stop or you will stall your car. Also installing a large oil cooler should help keep the oil temps down and may stop the 3rd gear engagement problem from occurring. I think installing both these options would solve all your issues and keep the transmission in good shape for many years.

death rattle is caused by rooted injectors. fix above is olny temorary. causes an increase int he duty cycle of injectors to cover up the knock. no need to relace the engine. simply get a new set of injectors ($2500 for 4) and replace them. They will need to be added to the ECU by a mechanic with the approriate hand tool.

Timing belt - easy enough to do yourself if you have small hands Air bag light = clock spring gone in the steering wheel. you can get a replacement for about $150 and relace it yourself. Airbag light will disapear.

All diesel chips do is alter the signal form the EGT sender and make it lower. Lower EGT = more diesel = more powah. I personally dont like the idea of them but there are plenty of people running them with few problems. In all honesty go for a 3inch exhaust frist. at least that way you are decreasing your EGT's leitimately and not placing undue strain on the engine.

further to this - hold down the TC button for about 5 seconds. this turns off traction control and VSC which lets you drive off road in any conditions.

The only other thing it might be is the arcon compressor kicking in for the first time. Makes a similar type of sound? yourn your ac off before you drive out of the driveway and see if the sound is still there. Either way it doesnt sound like anything bad.