GeneralYuehFei

Latest update is Penrite 10W-50 continued to have the issue. Changed to Penrite 15W-40 Semi Synthetic and so far so good the past 5 days. Three options as I see it in the medium to long term Option 1) Repair with Toyota as per TSB. Next week Toyota will check out the car and quote cost officially (expected to be $2.5-4.5k) Option 2) Spoke to a wrecker who can install a motor from a 2013 model for $4.5k inc labour Option 3) Do nothing, leave as is with higher viscosity oil until engine either continues to do its duty OR craps itself. If latter goto to Option 2 My father in law (ex.mechanic) suspects the continual practice of treating with Wynns Engine Flush every oil change @ 7.5k has contributed to the issue. Rather just do it every 25k.

RE: Oil, I'm converting to Full Synthetic. I ended up getting Penrite HPR10 (10W-50) Full Synthetic for the Kluger. Running a Engine Flush now and will change from Semi Synthetic to Full Synthetic. Oil filter too. One thing I've never been able to achieve is changing the small o-ring on the oil filter case. The large one always of course. It's impossible to undo so I suppose it remains sealed... no oil leaks thats for sure. Any tips? HPR5 (5W-40) for the Lexus when it comes.

I ordered a cheap eBay dongle KW903 just to dabble. If I get a good grasp of this then I will seriously consider the Bluedriber obd2 reader @ USD$99. Good reviews for this one.

Thanks. Never have had oil burning issues OR rough idle. Something I have never done and @ 175k will replace asap because its good practice. Just checked the operation of it, @ idle it suck nicely and there is definitive movement of the spring inside which is great. Minimal oil on the initial inspection which is good. Phew Lucky! Will buy a replacement next time Im at Toyota. Thanks again. I ordered a HD inspection borescope camera to maybe look inside the cover for sludge. I guess I wouldn't be surprised if it is there... What can I do if it is? "remove and clean the camshaft sensors and VVTi oil control valves on the valve covers" I've done this religiously on the Kluger since buying the car and every 30k. A lot of oil! That guide answered the question for me about the Lexus IS350 which has no dipstick for the ATF (which the Kluger does). So thanks for that too as I was scratching my head on that one in lieu of it arriving next week.

I called Toyota and they quoted ~$2,500. I expected worse. I intend to perhaps have an Independent do the work as I have never been happy with dealer repairs / servicing (just my personal opinion).

Thanks. Great document and read so thanks. RE: Oil cooler hose leaks (until 2012, part 15767-31010). Few years back I was lucky to catch the oil cooler hose busting in my own driveway. Straight up on jack until i replaced Oil Cooler Hose 15767-31010 with 15767-31020 (all Metal Assembly). So engine has always bathed in oil. Cheers

Even higher at 15W for cold starts. Yes higher viscosity oil will reduce the amount of leakage and hence not dry out the cam area as it sits in the garage. So feasible that this would potentially resolve it and increase oil pressure in the engine during operation, however for how long and what other issue does that bring down the track. One side of me says do that and maybe get another 50k before and while saving for a overhaul/replacement. The other side says fix now and forever hold your peace. Yes mine through out the engine light once a year ago and then never again. The codes related to this are in the TSB. Is there a phone app / dongle that allows me to access the codes or do I need to take it to Toyota?

2008 Kluger GSU40R Engine 2GR-FE Vehicle purchased with 120,000kms. It was only 2yrs old with predominantly freeway driving - so very easy life. Since the, I've touched on 10,000km per year. Problem I think is because the car is hardly used and just takes me to the train station and back on most days. So plenty of cold starts and limited travel. Transports the whole family wherever on weekends. Serviced every 7.5k since then. 1) Before replacing oil I use Wynns Engine Flush 2) I replace with Gulf Western 10W-30 semi synthetic oil and genuine filter. 3) Then add Wynns Engine Tune Up and Oil Stabiliser. Recently, experiencing an engine knock intermittently at startup. Does not happen immediately after on second startup. So once in a blue moon. Sounds exactly like this youtube video (not mine). Research has led me to the TSB0094_09 for which my VIN falls within the given affected vehicles. Will validate the TSB is the fault when i take it to Toyota to check if the computer throws out the given codes. Very expensive fix unless anyone can advise alternatives. More so, I've just purchased a 2012 Lexus IS350 with the 2GR-FSE motor. VIN not listed on this TSB so phew for that! However can anyone suggest where I may have gone wrong in my servicing regime above OR was this just an inevitable consequence of bad design flaw affecting just some motors?

Hi club members New to this forum seeking advice on 2GR-FE motors. I drive a 2008 Kluger GSU40R with 175,000 kms. Keeping within the family and because I love this engine so much, I just purchased a 2012 Lexus IS350 with 55,000 kms for my wife as her daily drive. My problem relates to the Kluger motor which I will post in correct areas in this forum. I want to resolve them so that I do whatever is needed to make sure the Lexus does not do the same in the years to come. Look forward to learning from and contributing to the wider community here. Cheers