Kroeger

On 9/5/2020 at 12:07 PM, Hiro said:

Was tongue-in-cheek, me and Rizzi go way back...

Hahaha should've known

On 8/27/2020 at 8:12 PM, Hiro said:

Pictures aren't loading properly, I keep seeing a 1ZZ...

Its a Levin so yes, its 1ZZFE

1 hour ago, kensteyn said:

that makes sense. the rubber was in there when i took coil out. the spark plug socket got stuck in the tube around the rubber which i pushed down. i had to put some wd40 and twisted and pulled for about 5 min before i could actually get the socket out. so it been in there from whenever, i have only had car  for week now. Thanks Mark

i will assume it does not belong there. Could not find a name, but person from swan ignition coils has been great with advice and info

https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/profile/45808-swan-ignition-coils/

If its part of the socket, it definitely doesn't belong on the plug when you replace them. 

6 hours ago, kensteyn said:

thanks Ashley will definitely change plugs, by the way do you know if i have to put the rubber sleeve over the top of the plug?

see foto

thanks

Not seen these before. Are they present on each plug? Perhaps contact these guys to get some information on the ignition system https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/profile/45808-swan-ignition-coils/

19 hours ago, kensteyn said:

Hi Kroeger, was hoping to avoid a massive cost at the moment. I will try the other suggestions. thanks

Sometimes it is unavoidable. But keep doing all you can before you take it to a professional. Cheers 

Maybe its time for a new clutch along with a full service i.e. Fluid change and a cleanup of the throttle body. Also give the maf sensor a clean. 

On 8/17/2020 at 8:49 AM, JDM101 said:

Hey man, cheers! 

Personally, I feel you'll have no issues with Superpro and it's not going to be a drastic difference between these brands for the type of use we have, well I'm assuming you're making a reliable street spec. For me it was a good price, the current ones look oem (wouldn't hurt to replace near 18yr old spec bushes..). Let me know how you go? 

My order got delayed until mid September, but it's ok I'll keep at it with my Partsouq spree lol.

Its the same everywhere. You got it right, just a nice everyday driver. Its hard to get feedback on parts because everyone does things differently, so when your thread came up in the search I knew I had to post and ask for feedback regarding the lower control arms. Im trying to correct an out of spec rear suspension. Any experience with something like that? Cheers 

Hey mate, this is getting done into a mint ride. Have you had any previous experience with whiteline/nolathane lower control arms or would you recommend superpro bushes? Thanks

I have attached a pic of my last alignment report. If anyone can help me understand the stuff in red and also ways to remedy it, it would be greatly appreciated. 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

You could keep your control arms and try and get the right bushings if possible. I know it's a bit more work. You'd need someone to press them out and re insert them.

 

If I end up getting it done at a professional mechanic, yes I will go with superpro. But for a DIY Nolathane/whiteline seem like a very good option. Not to mention even the time saving when being done by a professional. 

On 6/2/2020 at 7:01 PM, TIDYWAZZA said:

Being an ex auto parts interpreter (API) I have sold many Polyurathane bushes of varying brands. Nolathane is one of the first and better brands. Positive feed back had been similar for many makes of cars. Polyurethane bushes do help in suspension control, cornering, braking ect but they also firm up the ride of the vehicle a little. Need to be installed correctly using the lubricant supplied with them. Many customers started with bushes on front or rear sway bars as they are usually easy to access then, after having good results went on to install more involved suspension bushes. Most Polyurethane bushes are long lasting and trouble free.

I was looking for someone who had a bit more insight about Nolathane products. My regular mechanic thinks they are crap compared to Superpro. If only Superpro made lower control arms for my Corolla. 

I have new stuff in the works for the old workhorse. I would appreciate some help from people who have installed lowered springs. I have ordered a set of lowered springs and matched shocks and wanted to know if I would need to take some meat off my standard bump stops to work with the lowered springs 35mm lower than standard all around. Also has anyone tried Nolathane/Whiteline lower control arms. They seem to be the only ones who make pre assembled control arms with poly bushes.

Hello good people of the forum. Its been a while since I updated my ownership diary. 

The car has crossed 200000kms and still going strong. 

Had to get the drive shaft seals replaced due to the previous owners botched repairs with some non genuine seals.

Posting part numbers in the pics to help others out. 

The Firestones have served me well but have been a noisy set so have bid goodbye to them for some Michelin XM2+ in the stock standard 195/60R15. 

Would like some deedback regarding ignition coils, are denso aftermarket coils good? Has anyone tried using coils from newer corolls(ZRE152 etc) in the ZZE122? 

Thanks in advance. 

1 hour ago, trentmeyer23 said:

I also stated such things as downhill mountain runs.

My point is, running to the shops to get a loaf of bread or not really getting the brakes hot will probably not show any form of improved braking. I used a track day as an example of getting brakes hot and you have ran with that as the only scenario that has been given.

I could not care less that DBA have said they are not designed for track use. The point is people have used them on track days without issue and have noticed improvements over stock rotors.

Anyway, I will not be responding any further to this thread, unless for moderation purposes, in an effort to not clog it up with back and forth rhetoric.

Maybe someone who lives around a hilly area would benefit from these rotors.

Takumi Fujiwara in the house?

Thanks for helping me understand the rotors better.

Cheers

17 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

You are still barking up the wrong tree for the improvements you want, but it doesn't seem that you can accept this. 

It was to do with the latter part of your statement. It is your assumption that I am not accepting that rotors alone will give me better braking. You aren't open to the fact that the street series are meant for the street and any benefit should be felt on the street. Not just after tracking them. Maybe change the tree you are barking upon. 

The chat with the DBA guy helped me understand what i can expect from these rotors and I will try to test them accordingly. Now that I have purchased them I have to live with them. The price vs performance of these rotors points to the fact that its not worth it.

I have given the feedback about the rust and they promised to get back to me with a solution. They were just as surprised with the rust appearing within a week of usage.

15 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

They can be used on the street. There are also plenty of street series rotors being used at track days, so no one is "lying". Other similar heavy braking scenarios could include downhill mountain runs.

You are still barking up the wrong tree for the improvements you want, but it doesn't seem that you can accept this. 

Contact DBA and make your complaints known to them if you really believe that you have been lied to.

I had a conversation with DBA and the guy from their technical department confirmed that these are slotted street rotors not meant from track use. They aren't made with track in mind. 

He also mentioned that the benefits under normal driving would be around 10% compared to OEM.

He did say the slotted rotors come into their own during rains.

He mentioned the 4000 and 5000 series being the ones catering to track use.

He also said you can track the T2 rotors but that's not what they are designed for. They are are just street rotors with slots.

Makes you think as the OEM ones cost half the price. (Feedback not barking)

17 hours ago, Kroeger said:

These were designed to provide better performance in street use that's why they are in the street series. Its misleading that the benefits can only be felt if these are tracked.

DBA doesn't mention these as suitable for Motorsport.

http://www.dba.com.au/products/street-performance/

Now you tell me who do I believe, you or the manufacturer. Cause one of you is lying.

Will surely experiment with different pads as I go.

 

I request you to read the last 2 lines again. 

I cannot just afford to change perfectly new brake pads without knowing if the next set will indeed provide benefits for my usage. Same with the calipers.

I am sharing my feedback and not barking, you need to accept this. 

4 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Rotors are not going to give this to you.

I didn't say that they were designed for track use, I said that the difference would be noticed then(or under similar conditions). Pulling up hard at a set of traffic lights on the way to the shops will feel pretty much the same.

Pads and caliper upgrades will make a larger difference in bite feel.

These were designed to provide better performance in street use that's why they are in the street series. Its misleading that the benefits can only be felt if these are tracked.

DBA doesn't mention these as suitable for Motorsport.

http://www.dba.com.au/products/street-performance/

Now you tell me who do I believe, you or the manufacturer. Cause one of you is lying.

Will surely experiment with different pads as I go.

On 07/08/2017 at 11:49 PM, trentmeyer23 said:

You need to do more research about brakes. Unless you are tracking these brakes/rotors, you will probably not notice any difference. The difference comes in heat dissipation after constant repeated braking efforts.

We are starting to get the impression that you are complaining for the sake of complaining.

I understand how these rotors are designed to work and I am sharing my feedback that under normal driving these do not provide any benefits. If these are meant for track why are they being marketed in the street series by DBA? The reason why I went with these was to provide myself with a better braking experience. Which has sadly not happened.

The salt on those wounds, if you may is the lack of any protective coating from factory.

I might have been a bit more dramatic than I would've liked to be, but hey I am the one who spent the $ to buy them. So your opinion on my complaints are void.

On 08/08/2017 at 7:10 AM, campbeam said:

Because I have been messaging Kroeger, it is more a case of disappointment that the DBA front rotors have started to look like this after only 1 week of daily driving. I think that for what he spent, he could have probably got 2 sets of quality standard rotors.  As I have said to him, I have not noticed any rust on the RDA slotted and dimpled front rotors on my 1998 Camry, quite possibly there is a fine coating of brake dust.

Agree, exactly what I am thinking and the slotted vented rotor has to be designed for better air flow for heat dissipation. Also, I understand that the bedding in process for new rotors and pads should be fully complete after about 500kms of driving.

When it comes to safety I wanted to buy the best set of rotors I could afford and hence went with DBA from the choices we had discussed because they seemed to have the best quality product. 

Like I said earlier, I will let it complete the proper run in as per DBA website and try to cycle them like track use to see if they resist fade. I was not looking to becoming a braking GOD after getting these rotors just improved braking.

I guess my feedback is bursting a lot of placebo bubbles.

11 hours ago, Hiro said:

Slotted rotors aren't meant to offer any significant benefit in daily driving, they're a performance product.  If you're only driving this thing to work or down to the shops then slotted rotors are complete overkill.

 

Got any photos to explain what you mean by the ridging?  Any rust that forms on the actual friction surface will be wiped away in seconds by the pads at the first stop sign/traffic lights, and anything not on the friction surface is irrelevant

The OEM ones have a very lazy feel. I was hoping with the new pads and rotors I'd get good better braking response which unfortunately didnt happen. Tried driving around the usual bends faster(within legal limits) and couldn't find any improvements.

I had a look at the discs again and it was just pad marks and not grooves/ridges. Phew

2 hours ago, Hiro said:

The grooves aren't designed to be cleaned by the pads, they are there to help remove gasses generated under repeated heavy braking events and to also act as a knife-edge to clean the pad.  The bottom of the groove will never be touched by the pad until the rotors are worn down to that level, at which point they will almost certainly be past their wear limits and need to be replaced.

 

Personally I'm more concerned with performance than looks.  If the DBAs stop the car well, then a little surface rust (which is all it is, if you really wanted to you could scuff it back and then paint those areas with high-temp brake paint yourself, making sure to mask off any area touched by the pads) is nothing to worry about.

The main area of disappointment the DBA don't offer any improvement over stock in daily driving.

In saying that I have only driven approximately 200kms so far.

The little surface rust is causing ridging on the braking surfaces.

The hats were painted but looks like like the rotor material the paint was crap quality too. Better to buy cheaper ones and paint them yourself.

Not impressed

29 minutes ago, Hiro said:

The grooves aren't being constantly cleaned by the pads, thats why they are rusty.  Remember that rotors are cast-iron, unless they are specifically treated/painted then they will always rust.

I expected some kind of treatment on the DBA ones. I WS under the impression that they would be a higher carbon content iron cast.

The paint overspray came off with brake cleaner. 

All in all not impressed by the DBA rotors.

Any solution for the grooves not being cleaned by the pads?

After a week of usage, the DBA rotors have surface rust already.(shocking  in terms of the price paid)

The RDA rotors are  rust free.

Sorry for the bad lighting. It got dark by the time I was done.

Braking is on point now. Will see how it goes once all components are bed in.

After much deliberation I went with RDA rears and DBA fronts. RDA rears are solid discs and the DBA fronts are slotted.

Will be testing them out with Toyota Original pads, front and rear.

Now to get them fitted to the car.