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AurionX2 last won the day on July 6

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  1. So uniquely tuned many of them exhibit the "pull to the left" feature? :) I understand there might have been a lot of work locally on/for the Aurion, just nobody seems to tell me exactly *what* and *where*. Everything I've read so far about it is terribly vague and doesn't seem to even scratch the surface.
  2. I read that, however I still don't understand exactly what parts of what's been named Aurion were designed in Australia. Whichever way I look at it, the Aurion is still a Camry which is why I'm asking. Did a bit of reading myself but couldn't find much information on it. There's the front grille, the headlights, taillights, here and there some touches, is that it?
  3. It's still unclear to me what is exactly Australian in the Aurion. Apart from some more or less subtle body differences to the XV40 Camry and comparing it with the US Camry V6 version and the V6 versions sold in various parts of Asia, I don't know where to look further. Moved the steering wheel from left to right? That's not redesign. Or perhaps the ongoing audio entertainment coming from the centre console rattles due to the 3 layers of plastic, all of different textures, used? :) Not trying to start a flame, just asking.
  4. Aurion calipers query

    Just walk into Repco, SCA and/or Autobarn on the weekend, give them the model & year and see what they suggest. That's what I did when I had to replace my front pads, Bendix gives 2 codes for the front - 1474 and 2243 - and Repco guy suggested 2243, which is what I then bought and turned out to be the right ones. It pays to ask in store, they're usually pretty good with giving you the right part code.
  5. Spark plug prices?

    The ones shipped out of China are most likely cheap knock offs, not sure about the other ones. For Aurion I think you'd be looking at Denso FK20HR11or NGK DILFR6D11, both capable of doing 100.000km+. Considering how much of a pita are the 3 ones at the back to replace, I'd rather go for quality plugs and change them less often :) I'm watching these ones:|parentrq%3A0ef279c71650a9cb8330cf0bffff6c62|iid%3A1|parentrq%3A0ef279c71650a9cb8330cf0bffff6c62|iid%3A1 - although when adding the shipping costs they're more expensive than the NGKs I bought in store from Repco for I think around 75AUD on sale.
  6. How long will my Aurion last?

    One GSV40R approaching 150k and one GSV50R with ~52k on the clock in the family. Serviced properly they'll likely last a long time. I don't know what your car is like service-wise, but if I were you and the car is faultless I'd service and run it 'til it dies. Depreciation at that odo means nothing. Unless, of course, you want to fork out for a newer car. GSV50R is nice, better handling and interior, but I find the driving position in GSV40R better. Bottom line, take care of it and enjoy it, and it'll take care of you :) L.E. After reading your post again I think you should book your car in for another transmission fluid change. I wouldn't leave the juice in there for more than 40-50k. Get 3 4l drums of Penrite on sale and flush it. If you haven't changed the oil strainer at the 140k service, do this too.
  7. How to remove an Aurion bonnet.

    Agreed, the ones I got on my 2008 are rubbish, made in North Korea and bought from Repco. On the bright side I only have to push the bonnet up about twice a month and only for checking the fluids :)
  8. Aurion 2014 ATX50

    My 2008 Touring water pump went after the 120k service. After the pressure test during the service it started dripping coolant for about 2.000kms, then one afternoon on my way back home it suddenly decided to leave us for a better world. I haven't heard of many dying water pumps on the 2012 onwards Aurions though.

    Thought it might be useful to follow up on the gearbox fluid change 7 weeks and ~3800kms later. Overall the car has settled in really well, no slamming into gear when cold, nor flaring when coast anymore. Smooth and responsive, no hesitation when downshifting for overtaking. It literally drives like new, there's no difference afaict when comparing it with my wife's 2013 ATX with 48000kms. Based on *my experience* I sincerely recommend the filter change and full flush *if done right*. P.S. Repco has 30% off all Penrite oils this weekend if interested.
  10. Rattle on engine start

    Vijitha, on my Aurions I'm using 5w30 full syn. One, 2008 ~145000k kms is on Valvoline Synpower, the other one, 2013 ~46000k kms on Nulon Long Life, on both changed every 7.5-8k kms. I really can't see any reason NOT to go full synthetic when I can buy them on sale for under 30AUD for a 5 or 6 litre bottle. But bear in mind I haven't had the VVT rattle at start-up yet, so can't tell whether going for different viscosity will help in your case, but you can try. Just curious, ave you ever removed the rocker cover or the oil sump to see whether there's any significant sludge inside? If it looks gummed up you may want to get rid of some of that dirt. Trying several oil flushes may help, but without knowing the car's detailed service history and the current engine condition you're just shooting in the dark here.
  11. Kluger brakes fitted to Aurion sx6

    If that helps, on the stock calipers I'm running for ~2000Km now RDA7686 rotors with Bendix General CT DB2243 pads, decent braking, zero noise and virtually no dust.

    Quick update: after servicing it I could reproduce the flare up when coasting at low speed once and, as a result, last Saturday I've added the extra 200ml of juice to the transmission. So far it looks like Ashley was right: since then the car's gear shifts feel more like my wife's 2013 Aurion, there's noticeably less lag for both downshifting and upshifting and during the last few chilli Melbourne mornings it "felt" smoother when cold. Seems to be more predictable now. Still early days, though. How can 200ml, or ~3% extra fluid, make such difference? L.E. Oh and on the snapped bolt: haven't found any leak at all around the area, however on Satuday I went and got rid of the bit left in the hole and fitted a M6x12mm bolt from Bunnings with 3 washers in there, now that's my fingerprint :)

    Interesting, so this is a 2015 document that specifically mentions adding extra 200ml after the check fluid level procedure is complete. I've got a handful of documents, all pre-2015, none of them giving the slightest hint about having to top up with 200ml. Why would this be even necessary? I'm not arguing the necessity, but does this mean Toyota have miscalculated the height of the overflow plastic tube from day dot and corrected their calculations later? It just doesn't make sense to top up after the level check procedure is followed to the letter. If the 200ml amount was necessary in the first place it should have been documented earlier, shouldn't it?
  14. Hasn't happened again yet. Based on the car's behaviour I have a suspicion it could be loosely related to using a Valvoline engine flush at the previous petrol fill-up. No particular reason other than picking it up on sale for 4.99. Mmmm, is it a case of if it ain't broken, don't fix it?

    Thanks Ashley, good point. Didn't think I'd have to top up with additional 200ml, but I'll definitely consider it. I think I should first wait for the car to jolt forward when coasting on a steep hill at low speed in 2nd gear, what do you think? It used to do it quite often before.