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AurionX2 last won the day on April 29

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  1. Yep, that's the one I bought. Early ones were having issues, iirc Denso have 2 different part codes for this alternator, they've changed the code in 2008 and the revised version is the supposedly better one. My Aurion was built in 12/2007
  2. Tony, the alternator went on my 2008 Aurion. Should it die on my wife's 2013 car I'd get HER to do the replacement job, can't wait to see her struggling with undoing the lower bolt behind the wheel well with 2 different socket of different lengths and 3 ratchets! The alternator is aftermarket, bought for just under $300 from Auto8 in Wangaratta, Vic. Came with 5 years warranty, should hopefully last at least double that 🙂
  3. It was the alternator, replaced it and everything is back to normal now. But the replacement job is an Absolute Royal PITA. Hopefully I'll never, ever have to do it again. We chose not to remove the fans assembly, only disconnected the upper coolant hoses and pulled the radiator forward as much as we could. Big mistake, by doing this we really struggled with the lack of space around the alternator and I also had to disconnect the A/C line underneath to be able to access the bracket that supports it. At least now I have good charge, more than 5litres of new coolant and a freshly regassed aircon system ($120 additional expense).
  4. Wouldn't recommend installing noname hardware purchased off fleabay. Go for a proper headunit like Kenwood, Sony, Pioneer or Alpine with the Aerpro wiring harness and fascia kit that suits your car and you'll have a proper audio setup.
  5. Good point Tony, will check the wiring. If it's related to temperature variation it could be anything, really.
  6. Last Thursday evening, as I picked up my son from training (football training is back on, yeah!) we heard a ding sound in the dash, then CEL came on, then check VSC, then progressively went from bad to worse: headunit shut down, the clock started to dim and the dash turn into a Christmas tree. Got my son to pull over (he's on his Ls) *without turning the engine off*, got behind the wheel and limped it back home. Pulled up in the driveway, turned the engine off, tried to turn it back on, nothing. Dead, 6 months old Supercharge Gold Plus battery was dead flat. Tested the alternator on Sunday with a professional tester and got some interesting results: with the engine cold, right after starting it, the alternator would push 13.7-13.9V, which is in spec. As soon as the engine started to warm up it went down to below 12. Repeated the test with the battery from my wife's car, same result. So yeah, just ordered a new alternator and bought the drive belt from Repco, looks like this Saturday I'll be pretty busy...
  7. Oh man, that Aurion looks fantastic. I really enjoyed the South Island holiday there few years back. Kiwi, you have some really great drives down there in South, I'd take that beauty on a day drive to Akaroa and back, that firm suspension should feel at home on those bends 😁
  8. I'd say he'll wait a while 😁 why fix it if ain't broken? He's got the pump as cheap insurance, makes little sense to pull the existing one out if it does the job. Once it'll star seeping it's a slightly different story, but even then there's little danger to cook up the engine. Routine fluid level checks should pick up any coolant loss and listening every so often to noises coming from the engine bay should help to isolate the bearing noise of death coming from the water pump. I'm yet to hear of a Camry or an Aurion killing the engine because of dropping its coolant, they're pretty well engineered and can cop a fair bit of abuse.
  9. Getting to the heater core hoses isn't that easy and even if I had an air compressor in the garage, which I don't, I think it's too much hassle just to have 100%, pure single vendor fluid, be it Toyota or Nulon. After the next drain and refill I estimate I'd get close to 95% Nulon, which is good enough for me considering the 2 years radiator drain cycle.
  10. I think I'll stick with drain / refill for the time being and keep using Nulon. I plan to do it every second year and it's due next year in June/July. Doing a full flush is a bit tricky since you'll never be able to drain the engine block and the heater core completely and the makes the use of premix problematic, because you'll end up with a concentration that's not exactly 50/50. Drain the radiator and refilling it every 2 or 3 years is good preventative maintenance. If there'll be any failure, like the water pump failing again, or the thermostat sticking, will let you know 🙂
  11. Check the battery terminals too and how clean the connectors are.
  12. Tony, the water pump failed on my 2008 Aurion, it started leaking around 121.000k mark from memory and went completely one morning, 11.000k later. At the time the car had the original Toyota SLLC factory fill, but I can't blame it for the pump failure, I understand there have been some dodgy pump batches pre-2009. As part of water pump replacement service the mechanic refilled with Castrol, that's probably what he had in his shop compatible with Toyota pink. Right now the car nears 187.000k and, touch wood, the replacement pump - Gates I think - is holding up well on a Castrol Radicool and Nulon Premium Long Life salad, seasoned with Toyota SLLC leftovers 🙂 My wife's 2013 Aurion is still on the factory fill.
  13. Toyota SLL gets a lot of praise and that's probably what I would have used if it wasn't for the water pump failure and the mechanic using Castrol. I'm now using the 8 years / 500.000k Long Life from Nulon, it was compatible with the frankenbrew I had in the cooling system at the time so I said, why not? Got it on sale, couldn't resist 🙂 Speaking of coolant change, that Lisle spill free funnel is absolutely amazin for bleeding the air out of the system.
  14. Yeah nah, they're junk. Shell out $100-150 more and buy a decent unit from the likes of Alpine, Sony, Kenwood, Pioneer etc on sale. Got my Sony AX5000 for 450 during an Autobarn sale last Christmas, solid build, great sound on the stock speakers and AA integration. The problems with these cheap Chinese units are mainly the build quality and the lack of local technical support, which you'll need eventually. Your car, your money, but I'd avoid them.