Trd aurion #617

Hey long time no speak, hows your beast going Adam, any new stuff, I’m just about to get some transmission work done, improved shifting, lsd and a few other bits, gonna get the same tvs1900 that you fitted, any feedback after having it fitted for a while now. On another note, terryo is your lotus manual or ips auto, just curious as I’m not sure how a stand-alone ecu will integrate with the auto, would prefer standalone ecu so the stock ecu doesn’t try to correct itself from a piggyback setup, this is we’re Adam can help with his experience with the piggyback setup,

Cool man looks like a lot of fun, I got a few mates into the Subi’s, I’ll show em ya work, anyone following Papadakis Racing, they are doing a few mods to the to?ota supra

Gday bud, nah I’ve been in a money rut, it’s still going well, how about your beast any new news

Yo been away for a bit lost my job and did my back at the same time joys of metal work, personally if I were in your spot rebuild what u have, ssc should be able to recommend a engine builder, daily driven demands better internals, engine already has piston oil squirters, forged Rod’s an pistons will guarantee long service life, Sorry to hear about the bad news, but on the other hand it still goes hard whilst broken With a built bottom end methanol will be a treat Or failing that as long as your doing the changeover yourself, just keep swapping them over, ssc reckons the engine is the same as all the 2grfe fitted to all Toyota’s I rekon the biggest issue is inlet manifold design, it’s greddy flow the cylinders below the discharge port get fed first then what’s left feeds the rest The new charger kit utilises the na intake manifold with a large plenum which I believe helps for equal flow to all cylinders,

One kit is for the already intercooler lotus as an upgrade, the other is a non intercooler 1320 upgrade, still looking into heat exchanger, there’s still a fair bit of room in front of the radiator, need to get the dimensions for the min requirement of the unit to perform its task, the kit uses the stock na lower intake manifold, so I need to find out the height difference between the two ani folds are

I’m still in the r&d of it all, heat exchanger and pump shouldn’t be to difficult, having to go piggyback or standalone ecu is a shame, but at least it’s a download for the tune, so there’s a couple of bucks saved on the dyno, clearance is my biggest issue, I’m gonna make a template up to see if the bonnet needs a hole with scoop, I’ll get some playdoe close the bonnet and measure the clearances, hopefully it will fit,

Woops

Check out the harrop website they have a cool video

Even better water to air, it comes with a tune for the lotus, just waiting to hear back to see if they can reflash the stock Trd aurion ecu, they did it first so they may have access, this alone saves 3-5 grand + dyno for after market ecu,

Harrop released this kit not sure on the cost, the power is very impressive, I’m waiting on response, they are going to check there cad drawings to see if it fits the Trd aurion(with a bonnet modification) and if all goes well hopefully they can redo the ecu to suit since they did the first development with the original package

Should be fine only reason I was thinking of post charger is if I’ve got the manifold off might as well do maybe a dual stage pre post charger. I can’t get anyone to hack ecu in Melbourne can your mob in Sydney do it, sorry for late response been flat out lately.

just spoke to Harrop, they say pre charger injection has been done, but they don’t recommend it as it washes the grease out of the needle roller bearings, and breaks down the coating on the rotars, I’m going to go post charger, was thinking about placing a nozzle on the front of the intake manifold to hit the air as it leaves the charger.

As long as the ecu is tunable go with the higher stage,

Yeah I’m looking into snow performance, the sprayer is set after the maf, the water methanol mix can be sprayed directly into the charger or u can install nozzles into each intake runner(a lot more work)I’m not sure about mixing the brew, there’s some already mixed called boostjuice, not sure we’re to buy from locally, there are plenty of mobs that sell straight methanol, probably best to get braided line screw fittings as apposed to the push pull type with plastic pipes, the bottle is for mounting in the engine bay, or u can get larger fuel cells that go in the boot, there’s just more control over the different stage kits which is handy, all kits offer different size nozzles/squirters, it’s all about nozzle size and pump pressure to ensure a fine mist of the mix,

Looking at the bonnet maybe fold up some flat bar in the shape of the cut out, and fix it in to improve stiffness of the bonnet

Cheers for the pics Adam, Aussie speed shop stock a brand called devilsown, this kit appears to offer all the safety required, definitely go 1/1 water methanol mix, not sure how to size the kit devils own have calculators on there website, they claim 10-15% increase, so that’s good considering timing is not retarded, so u get more power than u have as well as being consistent and not detune, $690 + fuel tank, in conclusion I reckon it will be better than an intercooler as it cools the charger as well as the air so on hot days it should be more efficient, cause there are still the limitations of heat soak on the intercooler were as this should be more consistent

Sweet just found this I’ll be going down this path

CAN I SPRAY WATER METHANOL INJECTION THROUGH MY EATON SUPERCHARGER? Posted by Rachel Farabaugh on October 23, 2015 Every week and almost daily were asked this or similar questions by customers. It's a reasonable and understandable concern for those who are running an Eaton supercharger or any of the other positive displacement superchargers such as the Kenne Bell, Magnacharger, Whipple, Edelbrock etc. as the water methanol injection will be sprayed directly into the inlet of the supercharger and through its rotors. Read below as we answer the many questions asked regarding spraying water methanol injection through positive displacement superchargers. Is it safe to spray water methanol injection through my supercharger? Yes, its safe to spray water methanol injection through your supercharger. We have set up hundreds of systems for customers over the years who are doing just this. Furthermore, you can find countless others on the internet who are doing the same with competitors systems. Spraying through the supercharger is extremely effective way of cooling off the supercharger and its rotors and housing. So much that if you are familiar with how hot your supercharger is after shutting of the car just after normal driving. If you ever get the opportunity to watch your car dynoed in person. After they finish a pull. Walk over and cautiously place your hand on the supercharger. It will feel warm to the touch and sometimes almost cool. Where as without the water methanol injection, you wouldn't be able to touch it! I have found this to be a quick and easy way to tell if the water methanol injection has fired off during a run on the dyno before waiting for the data to display on the dyno's computer showing air temps. Try it out for yourself and you'll be surprised how cool your supercharger feels with water methanol injection. Will it hurt the bearings on my supercharger? No, the water methanol injection will not hurt your bearings. We have customers who have been running water methanol injection through their positive displacement superchargers, on daily drivers, for years without any issues. While we can not see inside the supercharger while the methanol is spraying. We can tell from looking at other information and signs. It appears the majority or entirety of the water methanol injection is flashing off instantly once it comes in contact with the hot rotor pack and housing. The water methanol injection is short lived and evaporates to quickly to make its way back and into the bearings. Will it pit or corrode my supercharger? No, spraying water methanol injection will not pit or corrode your supercharger. While it's a reasonable and understandable question since the supercharger rotors and housing are made of aluminum. The methanol is too shorted lived and evaporates immediately before it is allowed time to effect the aluminum surfaces. Unlike if you store methanol in a aluminum container where over a period of days and weeks it will eventually corrode and pit the aluminum. Will it effect the coating on my supercharger? Yes, for many of the superchargers, those which are not anodized, over time it will remove the thin coating on the rotors. If you were to ever remove the rotor pack after having ran the water methanol injection for a period of time. They will almost look like they have been polished. While the water methanol injection will remove this coating. It has not proven detrimental or effected the performance of the supercharger. This coating is designed to wear and will eventually deteriorate over time regardless if water methanol injection is used.

Sorry for the late response, Yeah and it also applies to oil, coolant, basically every component of the engine, even the transmission, not sure if it’s correct I seen it on a Honda forum, for every 10degrees farinhieght increase in air temp you loose 1 hp, I toyed with the idea of running bonnet scoops to cool the charger, but it’s the friction caused from the rotating assembly of the supercharger that can’t be avoided, that’s why I want the tvs 1900 to give better output once soaked, this is why the ignition timing is retarding to avoid detonation, I’m toying with a water/methonal injection set up vs e85 it also lowers the temp of the intake charge, it works wonders on turbos just need to research a little more to see if it possible

With the 1900 Once the heat soak sets in does it feel like The 1320 pre heat soak

Cool maybe put some shims in between the hinge and bonnet, if there are still issues, is it worth relocating the batery to the boot and running more duct from the fog light to push more clean air in

good work Adam looks awesome, does the charger still hit the bonnet, that’s been my biggest concern, can u post a pic of the area I cut,