Chriz

Just thought I'd update in case anyone searching for an answer knows what I did to change the light and may find it useful. After I pulled out the original filament lamp and essentially broke off the leads I used a blue T5 wedge LED, but got rid of the plastic wedge base and snipped a bit of the leads off. I then simply pushed the leads into the small holes where the old globe came out from and didn't bother soldering or anything. Essentially when you put the cigarette lighter assenbly back together, there is no chance for the LED to fall out and it works nicely. Just make sure you get the polarity around the right way.

Are you guys talking about shoving T2 type LEDs into the socket by bending the leads?

Has anyone ever figured out a way to replace the cigarette lighter globe? I took my globe out of the lamp holder, but I think the whole lamp holder is perhaps some sort of specialty auxilary lamp. It appears the lead in wires broke off the plastic base. I have some photos attached.

Seeing that there hasn't been a response, I thought some images might help in determining whether you think the external damege is significant enough to affect the vehicle's value.

I am considering selling my '02 Corolla Ascent ZZE122R sedan because it's getting up the km's (just passed 220,000km) and I've been browsing some new vehicles. This was actually my first car and has served me well for the last 5 years. However, I have no experience selling and have a few questions to ask. I'm not looking to sell immediately, it may be within a few months. So I have time to fix anything that may need fixiing in order to get the car its best resale value. Fixing dings in the bodywork. Will this make a significant difference to my selling price? I have two areas that need to be fixed. The first is a scrape against the rear passenger side wheel arch. Some panel beating and re-spraying is required which will cost $600-700 (so I've been quoted). The reason for the high cost is that this panel extends to the front A-pillar so the whole panel would need to to be re-sprayed. The second is scrape on the driver side corner of the rear bumper courtesey of some douchebag that doesn't know how to leave the kerbside after parking and does not leave a note. I was quoted that this would cost $230 - $250. Adding these two up is quite costly, so I don't know if selling the vehicle without these repairs will knock almost $1000 off it. My right front shock absorber has been quite worn out for some time as it makes kocking noises or is generally noisy when cornering or going over bumpy roads. I've been quoted $400 to replace the front two shocks. I think not changing these will make it harder to sell the vehicle. Your opinions? Is it normal to have to change shocks after 200,000km? The left hand side doesn't appear to be noisy. SRS airbag light flashes. I have had this flashing for a few years now mostly because I was too lazy to fix it after reading somewhere that it's not really a major issue. However, it could be a concern for selling otherwise may reduce sell value. Anyone know where this can be checked or reset in Sydney for cheap? There are a few minor internal details such as the clock and aircon console lights not working, but from my understanding I should be able to change the lights for these. The above are my main concerns and it all relates back to whether the cost of repairing it prior to selling it will have a major impact on the final sell price, so if you have any feedback at all it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Wow, I'm bringing back my own really old post. I haven't been on this forum for a few years. I never ended up changing the clock bulb as I changed my audio system which showed the clock anyway, but now I'm considering changing this as the air con light is also out. My car is 2002 (MY03) ZZE122R. Is there a guide on how to dismantle the console to access the bulbs?

I got a pair of H7 Osram "Cool Blue" globes recently. The quality of light is great and it does produce a whiter light, but they are by no means blue. They still look yellowish depending on how you look at them. They are only 4000K though. Does anyone know who's the best for 6500K + halogen globes that would still be legal to use? I want my headlamps to be slightly blue. I've seen some really blue ones. I'd guess they were about 8000K. As for HID, as far as I know, the after market stuff would in most cases not be considered street legal.

I'm in Sydney, so unfortunately you're too far away. The thing is, in the last few days, I don't recall it flashing. It happens on odd occasions and not others.

How much can one expect to be charged for that to be done?

Hi guys. My '03 Corolla sedan which has done ~107,000 km just today had the SRS airbag sign come on and it keeps flashing. I checked the manual, which says if this occurs I should take it to a Toyota dealer immediately. It is a busy time of year around this time, so I was thinking of putting this off till later, perhaps Monday. I have not been in an accident recently, so I do not know what has triggered this. Do you think it is an important issue which should be addressed immediately? Can I take it to any Toyota dealer to be inspected? Thanks for your help and advise in advance.

I'm located in the Liverpool region of Sydney. Aren't the back lights actually LEDs as opposed to bulbs with filaments?

Hi guys. I don't know if this sort of thing would have been discussed previously, but here I go anyway. I bought a 2003 Corolla sedan recently and the in dash clock works, but for some reason the back light has never worked. I assume that the clock should really be illuminated by a green back light. Can the back light actually be shut off and turned back on again, or does it sound like the LEDs or circuitry have gone?

The only difference on the outside of the face lift Corolla sedan, is the front grille and the rear tail lights with the chrome type rings around the indicator and reverse lights, which look pink.

I prefer the front end of the sedan. Lights and grille look slicker and more stylish. The rear end is so-so. But like the Yaris the two variants don't really seem to look much like each other,

Will the squeeking stop over time, or should I take it back to get them bedded in? I haven't bothered looking into checking them out recently as I've been busy, but today after a while of driving, they seemed louder and more annoying.

I have an '03 Rolla sedan and the sub faces the boot and not towards the cabin. The sub is in a sealed box. I find that the boot actually is good because it minimizes sub distortion with tighter air space. The bass seems to reflect forwards into the cabin nicely and seems to emanate from the font of the car despite the fact that sub is in the boot. I haven't tried turning the sub in different angles yet. If your mate has crap sound or a weak amp, then he should get a ported sub which requires less power to the driver and possibly better sound. I've read a few reviews on ported and sealed sub units and generally sealed are better, but depending on your circumstances, ported may be better for you. I personally do not like boomy bass and I tried to recreate a sound field I like using various settings on the head unit. Took me a few weeks to find a happy medium for nice strong bass and overall balanced sound.

I'm due to take my 2003 Corolla auto sedan into its 100,000km service soon. I bought it not too long ago at 95,000km. But anyway my question is, is it normal for for it to idle at around 2000rpm for maybe 3-5 minutes when you start the engine and while it warms up? It does slowly come down to below 1000rpm, but it sounds like it may be revving high when initially igniting and while the engine is still cold. When I've driven previously and then go back to start my car, and start the engine with the engine temp still close to the normal middle range, the revs go to below 1000rpm pretty quickly if not instantly.

Hi guys. Not sure if this is the right part on these boards to post this, but when starting my 2003 Corolla sedan, lately there's been a noise coming from what sounds like in front of the dash and the centre console controls, while the engine is idling. It's probably coming from either behind the engine or maybe the air conditioning, but it sounds like liquid moving through pipes, or ice melting and making a noise while shifting (although it isn't ice). Is this a normal noise and perhaps some lubricant or coolant moving as the car starts up and pressure levels of whatever it is change?

I had the previous issues resolved, but the new brake bads after a few weeks seem to make a squeaky noise. A friend said it might just be brake dust and that that you can hose off the brake area. Would this be recommended?

After having read you post, I went and checked the locks with the master key. It works on the boot and the doors. Me being the dumb ***** I am, never actually turned the key. Having once put it in the door and seeing it would not go all the way in, I thought that there was another key for the doors.

I bought my Corolla (2003 sedan) second hand and I only got the main remote locking key. This appears to be useless for the boot and doors. I was initially a bit worried that if the battery goes flat I'd have no way of getting into the car. How much would the boot/door keys cost keeping in mind that I do not have the original?

How much do those speakers set you back?

I'm not sure what power cables they are, as I did not install the system myself. Most of what you said is beyond me at this point. I did get a Sony audio system cable set for this system which goes to the battery and fuses. I'll have to look into it further.

Question! Are these sealed or ported boxes?

I have a Pioneer mono block amp which I think is rated around 350W and a 12" Pioneer sub in an enclosed box. The amp model number is GM-7200M, which I believe is now superseded by the GM-7300M, which should be exactly the same thing. I have a two channel amp for my front splits which have the high pass frequency on, so basically almost all the bass is handled by the sub woofer. How bad the dimming is depends on how much I turn up the volume. It's really only when I put it just past a comfortable listening level to a high listening level that the dimming can be seen. I'd say it'd be pretty noticeable if someone behind me was looking at my tail lights. You can tell with the headlights and dash instrument panel quite easily. It's not that it gets really dark or anything, but you can tell there is something using that power. EDIT: One thing I was thinking of doing is getting a ported enclosure instead of a sealed one. Apparently this means you don't need to feed the sub as much power. I don't know if a ported sub would sound muddy though. My home theater/home audio system sub is ported and I probably prefer that softer sound to what I am currently getting with my car's system, but that's home theater. Room acoustics are completely different to start with and that may sound loud and boomy in a car.