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Novicebutnice

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Novicebutnice last won the day on September 17 2021

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  • Toyota Model
    2017 Camry RZ
  • Toyota Year
    2017
  • Location
    New South Wales

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  • First Name
    Stephen

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  1. As much as I do love my 2017 RZ Camry, If I would have had the money for the "New range of Camry's" I would have gone one of the new ones.... Only because to me they looked a bit sharper... plus it's a brand new model 🙂 But I can't complain, especially since when I bought the car they had a deal of 0% finance 🙂
  2. The specs listed in October 2023 for Hybrid Kluger: "Extra urban" = 5.6L per 100km However "Extra urban" Is a standardised test, but unknown how this compares to our highway driving. For example how many uphill sections did you encounter in your road trip etc What was the ambient temperature etc The Specs also list that the minimum Octane fuel to be used is 95 Octane. A few things that you can try: - Use BP or Shell 95 or 98 Octane fuel (I would use 98). - Drive slightly under the speed limit (100-105 km/h). - Don't drive with the air-con on all the time.... use it to get the car cool then switch it to recirculate, followed by leaving it on recirculate and turning the air-con off (not the fan, just the aircon component) - Use the cruise control as much as possible My non-hybrid 2017 Camry RZ whilst fairly loaded, only yesterday Between Tuncurry and Newcastle MATCHED it's claimed fuel economy (6L per 100 km/h) However whilst driving between Newcastle and Sydney at a "higher cruising speed" I would normally get 7.6 l/100 or worse.....
  3. Hi, As has already been pointed out, Check the spark plugs (I would replace them anyway), As an aside how well do you know the previous owner (do you have an accurate service history for the car), and what engine oil (brand, viscosity etc) did you use on the latest oil change. The car shouldn't be idling at 1000 rpm when stopped at the traffic lights etc even in "Drive" let alone if you put it into "N" whilst waiting for the traffic light to change..... What brand and type of fuel have you been using in your car? To me it seems that the primary cause of the excess fuel consumption is more than likely related to high idle that you have noticed, So I would recommend checking all of the air hose connections (both for the intake as well as vacuum hoses etc As an aside have you noticed the brake pedal feeling harder to push than normal? after you turn off the engine how many times can you push the brake pedal before if feels rock hard (should be normally around 4-5 pushes)? After "pumping" the brake pedal until it feels hard, push down on the brake pedal whilst starting the car, the pedal should "drop" Then I would move on to checking the PCV, have you noticed if the car uses/ burns oil in-between services? and how often is the oil changed? (so that a time frame for the oil consumption can be worked out) Let us all know how you go 🙂
  4. I've had my RZ Camry since new (2017) The "jarring ride" is due to this car having a "sports suspension" This is part of the difference between the RZ and say the base model. So whilst the turning circle is unchanged compared to the other Camry's and is still not great compared to say a Subaru Liberty of the same production period, it "hugs" the road better then other Camry's (of the same year model) So it feels "less boaty", and more stable on the highway, especially at the higher speeds.... or so "I've heard" 😂 The SL is a completely different car, the last of the Australian built Camry's were in 2017, They then "changed shape" a.k.a completely new car in 2017/2018 and these were built in Japan The "SL" is part of the "new range" that is built in Japan Changing tyres / having them inflated to the "correct" pressure may help, but on the whole and I'm not sure how else to put it....... but that's the "traits" of the car that you purchased. As an aside, please ensure that you have been doing the "in-between" oil changes and using a full synthetic oil 🙂 So depending on your budget, it may be time to change "rides", which if this is the case, check what your car is "going for" to see if trade in value or selling the car privately is the best option. I hope that this helps 🙂
  5. Short answer, NO Long answer, take your car to someone who can fix this properly.
  6. Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone else has tried this product? I recently tried a bottle of this, as well as using a thinner oil (2017 RZ Camry), So given that I made 2 changes, it's a little hard to get an objective result. But I did find that it did slowly start to feel as though the engine was more lively, and afaik I only started to notice this after driving with the Cera Tec for a while (500 km +) I added the Cera Tec after driving about 500 km on the new oil (since I hate money, I did a flush as well). Since I'm OTT and perhaps an idiot 🤷‍♂️ , the oil that I decided to use was: Liqui Moly Special TecAA 0W20 According to my owners manual this oil meets the requirements for my car (but Liqui Moly doesn't have this oil on their recommended list) Let me know if you have had any experience with Cera Tec, and if you continued using it. Regards Stephen
  7. After trailing some products, the one that I'm currently using and that I recommend based on performance and ease of use is: "Chemical guys HydroView Glass Cleaner and Coating. I did have issues at first, but these were resolved when I used a stand alone window cleaner first. It works great, and lasts a long time (even with me applying it incorrectly compared to the YT video... which I viewed afterwards 🤷‍♂️😂). Not quite as slick (rain drop movement) as say Rain X, but still very very good. I personally have never had any chattering, though I don't know what wiper rubbers you use, and how they compare to the ones that I use. I hope that this helps Regards Stephen
  8. Hi gents, I was wondering if any of you fine lads, have tried using AM pads and rotors, And if any of you have tried these recently (within the last couple years, to ensure I have a good understanding of the current quality etc of this brand) I've emailed "Sparesbox" to find out what the difference is between these 2: - RDA8112D - RDA7686D Regards Stephen
  9. I have no idea what their prices are, but maybe try "York Road Automatics" They seem to have good google reviews. There are a few others that also have good reviews depending on where you live in Sydney.
  10. It could also be something as stupid as the car preferring one brand of fuel over another. Whilst this isn't regularly mentioned, some car brands seem to dislike certain brands of fuel. My previous car being an 05 Corolla sedan, and my current MY17 Camry RZ seem to hate "7/11" a.k.a Mobile fuel, But both run really well on BP fuel first and foremost, followed by Shell. Yes both use the same base fuel, but in the city they are not the same fuels (each having their own unique herbs and spices additive package)
  11. Just to confirm, When was the fuel filter replaced? An issue with the fuel filter won't present an issue at idle, since there isn't much flow demand. I'm not sure if a blocked Cat would cause the issue without throwing a fault code.
  12. I would still recommend doing an "oil flush service" pretty much immediately. The reason is that you may have caught the problem in the very early stage. Doing the "flush" now, and then every second service (combined with shorter service intervals) may fix the problem (IF there is one) and prevent further damage. As an aside, have you noticed the vehicle running "a bit rough" rough (or any other changes) during the same time period?
  13. Maybe an early version of "auto lock" (speed or a gear selection causes this to activate?)
  14. Since the noise disappears when he puts his foot on the clutch, it rules both of those out.
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