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Novicebutnice last won the day on July 27

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About Novicebutnice

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  • Toyota Model
    2017 Camry RZ
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    New South Wales

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  1. I don't have a torque wrench anymore, but I do have a breaker bar that is about half a meter long that I keep in the car. I'm thinking about going to DBA rear rotors when it's time for new pads (depending what Toyota say when I take it in for a supplementary service) What are your thoughts on RDA Rotors?
  2. I remember hearing that the hot pads keeping in static contact with the rotor once the vehicle comes to stop is one of the main causes, I'm taking it in to Toyota on Friday for a supplementary oil change, and (because I'm a sucker) to update the SatNav maps (I figure I'l do it every couple of years) I'll mention it and see what Toyota say
  3. Hi, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, where the rear brake discs are warped, but not the fronts. I understand that on my car that the rear discs are solid and that the fronts are ventilated, but usually 80% of braking is done by the front brakes on most cars. So if anything I would be expecting the fronts to become warped first (also based on my experience when I was a car mechanic). The symptom is when braking at a higher speed, especially when going down a Hill like Mt Ousley I feel a very noticeable shudder being transmitted through the Pedal and I feel the rear of the car also shuddering very noticeably as well, But the steering wheel has no vibration at all. I have just shy of 40,000 km and I have owned it since new (I've had it about 2.5 years) Thoughts?
  4. Now I don't know what to do... I'm having a supplementary oil change this coming Friday, and I was going to use engine oil that I had previously purchased "Shell Helix Ultra X 5W30 SN+" ( I might ring Supercheap Menai and see if they have any of the Nulon in stock..........
  5. I made that mistake... once The tyre brand was reputable, but I mentioned that my driving style was spirited.... and was sold tyres that were at best an "everyday tyre" and were about the same as what came OEM with my last car... even though my budget was quite high (relatively speaking)
  6. That's probably the number one thing that makes me angry about some car owners. They can't seem to comprehend that the black round things connect their car to the road, but then again I have heard that some of the tyre shops share an equal or most of the blame. They seem to be so eager to make a profit that I have heard of instances where they have suggested a tyre that clearly they have a better mark up on, irrespective of how bad the tyre is. or so eager for a sale no matter what that they suggest some cheap nasty thing just to make the sale. I honestly think that all tyres need to be regularly randomly (not supplied by the manufacturers) tested to ensure that they are safe to be sold, and of course publish the results on an easy to access website
  7. I first saw it for the Honda Hybrid Civics when they first came to Australia (I was working in the PD dept at the time and we needed to have some of that oil in case we needed to top any cars up), Though the girlfriend's Subaru Liberty uses 5W20 Which kind of begs the question, thinner fuel to save on fuel like 0W20 or 5W20 Or slightly thicker oil for what should be better protection, heat dissipation, cleansing (?) etc like 5W30, 5W40 etc Me personally I go the slightly thicker oil (not exceeding the manufacturers recommendations) The age old saying was that as a car gets older and starts to blow smoke the "fix" was just to put in thicker engine oil, but nowadays with the size of the oil gallery holes, and in general tighter tolerances in engines means that you can't really do that.
  8. I remember when I was doing my apprenticeship and I looked at the owners Service schedule for a certain brand : "15,000km normal driving conditions" "7500 km under severe driving conditions" And what was in the list of "Severe diving conditions"... pretty much everything, from highway driving, to city driving..... I think part of the problem is that I think the manufacturers are trying to win people back to their Service departments and away from corner garages, and also try to make it seem inexpensive to own their brand of car. Yes oils have come a long way, but so have engines.
  9. I used Shell Ultra 5W40 in my last car (2005 Corolla sedan), and I did notice that as well, but after that initial change the rate of oil discoloration slowed, and the engine was literally clean as new when I checked (taking off the oil cap, and using a torch to see as much as I could), to the point that when I changed and added in the oil it looked brand new as far as I could see in with the torch, absolutely no sludge what-so-ever, and no discoloration of engine components etc :-) Do you find any noticeable difference, like the Engine being quieter using oil "X", or noticeable variation in fuel usage using oil "Y"? I've been pretty happy with the Shell Ultra 5W30, but I was catching up with an old work mate at a wedding last year, and he was saying that Nulon is spending a lot on R&D over the last few years (apparently) I haven't tried Penrite yet....
  10. That's why I was surprised, esp since on Youtube they (Toyota) were advertising the same servicing schedule in North America using Mobile 1..... Which is why I asked to confirm etc... glad I did! What I don't understand is why they don't offer an oil upgrade option So for $30 extra on top of the capped price Service you get full synthetic oil But then again as I'm sure we are all aware, a lot of people who own cars don't want to spend a cent more than they have to..... oh look no name black round things at $20 each.... it's not like they connect my car to the road... what could possibly go wrong....... I'll take 4.....
  11. That's pretty much what my aim is, we'll see what happens next time I take it in for an in between oil and filter change
  12. Even with using full Synthetic I would still like to change the oil more often than the 15,000 km 9 months, but my local dealership doesn't like taking money off me To me 15,000 km / 9 months is an extended oil drain I used to be a car mechanic at a dealership (not Toyota), and so as soon as they said "semi-synthetic" and the brand I was like... oh hell no!
  13. To me it sound's like the caliper slides need to be cleaned and lubed (remember too much grease is as bad as not enough grease), but changing the brake fluid and bleeding any air out is also good. The problem may actually be the front right. I base this on most cars have about 80% of the braking on the front wheels and 20% on the rear wheels (under normal conditions), As you are applying the brakes to stop the car, but because only one side is working properly (only 60% brakes working) you are probably pushing down on the pedal harder leading to the left locking up (because the right isn't working properly, in my theory), you may even notice the steering wheel / car pulling left. As the brakes heat up the caliper slides (with probably old / insufficient grease) starts to free up a bit leading to the brakes working a bit better Let us know how you go, hopefully it is a cheap to fix issue.
  14. Good afternoon everyone, My reason for this post is to get people's thoughts about what engine oils that they currently use. When I purchased my 2017 RZ Camry I decided to supply my own engine oil, even though as part of the sale I got 3-4 years capped price servicing at $140 I decided to supply my own engine oil after discovering that the local dealership uses a semi-synthetic oil, but with the oil change interval at 15,000km / 9 months I felt that the semi-synthetic wasn't up to the task (as I had seen that the engine oil level had dropped, which to me indicated that the oil was breaking down) I currently use Shell Ultra 5W30 and have not noticed any loss of oil (I decided on this oil based on using Shell Ultra 5W40 in my last car) But I was wondering if people have any current experience with other oils (I'm happy with what I use, but I'm curious about Nulon and others). In my last car I tried different brands, I found that when using Nulon (semi-synthetic 10W30) that my fuel consumption went up (compared to other semi-synthetic 10W30 oils) and found other users found the same thing (reading reviews and forums) But this is old information, and what was true "years ago" may no longer be true. I'm looking at full Synthetic 5W30, and I was wondering if anybody else has tried different brands and found any noticeable difference?
  15. When I bought my RZ Camry it came with an offer of fixed price servicing of $140 for the first 3-4 years.... But I still supply my own oil..... Because I too understand the affliction But then again the dealership reckons that a Semi-Synthetic Castrol oil lasts 15,000km / 9 months..... I humbly STRONGLY disagree....