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Novicebutnice

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Novicebutnice last won the day on September 17

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  • Toyota Model
    2017 Camry RZ
  • Toyota Year
    2017
  • Location
    New South Wales

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  • First Name
    Stephen

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  1. Thanks Ashley for that info, to be honest I was surprised at the high cost of the filter, especially if it is a serviceable item (and why Toyota had only 1 in stock in Sydney). I was looking at the Valvoline which is full synthetic as well, but for at least this first fluid change I'm glad that I went genuine. Because I can feel the difference in the shifting compared to before, and if I had gone straight to non-genuine I may have come to the conclussion that the better shifting was due to the non-genuine oil being better than OEM. My car doesn't have an auto cooler, but has a ATF fluid heater? @ 2:39 to the right of the top radiator hose
  2. From what the Ashley has said on this car the filter doesn't need to get replaced (I'll remember that for the future), and I might go non-genine oil if the car is still under "extended warranty" when I have the ATF changed again. But it is definitively cheaper than a new transmission :-)
  3. Hi Tony, I'm not sure if you would call the below burnt (I only put it into the bottle this morning, and so this is my first proper look at the oil) I was looking forward to trying a different oil, the place uses Valvoline full synthetic, but I'm glad that I didn't. Simply from the point of view of seeing how the transmission is with new genuine oil, I can now say that the shifting is smoother than before the oil change (it wasn't harsh, but I can tell the difference). If I had gone straight to a non-genuine oil, it would have led me to the conclusion that the non-genuine oil is better than the OEM oil (because of the smoother shifting) I bought the car brand new (Oct 17 build from memory, and purchased in Feb 18) My car doesn't have an Auto cooler, but does have an auto fluid heater (or is it heat exchange unit??), so perhaps that may be why it was fairly dark considering the "low" km's I don't do any towing, and whilst I drive it spiritedly at times, I wouldn't have said that I drive it "hard" @ 2:39 to the right of the radiator hose (for the auto fluid heater)
  4. Greetings everyone, For some reason changing the Auto oil isn't in the service schedule, but my former mechanic and OTT self was never satisfied with that idea. So at 61,000km and 3.5 years I decided to have the oil changed, and it was going to be changed properly. As most people here know if you just drain and refill the auto and refill, you only change about half the oil (the other half is in the torque converter) So I decided that if I was going to have it done, it was going to be done properly (I understand everyone has budgetary constraints) including a flush and having the pan filter changed. Since the car is under "extended warranty" I opted for genuine ATF, and genuine pan filter. Costs (nearest whole dollar): 2 bottles of Genuine ATF $150 (needed 3, but I couldn't obtain another one, and I found out on the day AFTER they had started on my car) 1 Pan filter $150 additional trans-fluid for the flush (final refill was with the genuine oil only) + trans pan gasket + flush and labor in general = $264 Total = $564 Using non-genuine probably would have cost circa $420 from memory ($280 for tans oil and filter change, and circa $140 for the flush) Seeing the burnt oil that was in the car (sample shown and kept), and knowing that it has completely fresh oil + filter = priceless :-) Result: The shifting is smoother, though it wasn't bad before changing it (it just feels that bit more refined, and to sound corny... like new) I would recommend this (as best as your budget allows), as it is cheaper than a new/ re-built transmission :-) Regards Stephen
  5. I also prefer the Ryco cabin filter over the genuine :-)
  6. I stopped using Ryco oil filters a number of years ago, when they started being made in China...
  7. This may help mate, whilst my version doesn't use these products it does show the principles behind it :-) But, if you change the oil very regularly and don't have any known existing sludge issues, than adding a flush to the mostly still good oil should be ok (though I would still run a cheap semi-synthetic oil to rinse the engine to get any residual cleaners out):
  8. 100% especially when you need to use the Aircon, and then try to overtake/ go up a steep hill without turning the aircon off......
  9. The idea behind the multiple oil changes is, The way oil removes contaminants is by holding them in suspension until the oil gets to the oil filter where most is removed (which is why oil filters have a bypass, so that if they become clogged by contaminants the engine can still have a supply of oil, since dirty oil is better than no oil). As the oil gets "older" it's ability to hold the contaminants in suspension is reduced, meaning it will more so move the contaminants from one area to another (and possibly cause an issue), instead of taking the contaminants to the oil filter (which may already be clogged). By using fresh oil and filter you are giving the flush the best chance to remove the contaminants. The second oil and filter change is to remove any residual cleaners, and potentially left over contaminants (like from the sump that you might not have been able to fully drain (I used to refit the sump plug and dump about 1 litre of oil in, and then remove the sump plug, but I've never needed to do a flush). I agree that everyone has their own version, and some people may not be able to afford the numerous oil and filter changes in my version. And I would only suggest doing this if you just bought the car second hand/ have a car with known sludge issues etc But if someone is servicing their vehicle properly (including doing the in-between services, and using quality oil) than an oil flush isn't even needed :-)
  10. LOL It's like the smell that every Datsun Sunny had coming out of the exhaust, once you have smelt it.... you never forget it, A mixture of a mechanics garage and burning oil.
  11. Depending on if there will be any longevity issues, I was happy that Toyota "worked" their current 2.5 on the Camry (non-hybrid) to the point that it puts out 152 KW (at 6600 rpm) and mated it to the 8 speed auto, especially since they dropped the V6 option. To me this is a healthy power to weight ration (compared to my 2017 RZ which has 135 kw, and a 6 speed), But that this is only available on the base model is disappointing from my point of view. It should also have been made available on the SX especially since they killed the V6 option (though I understand their reasoning from an economic and long term planning point of view).
  12. Or the Holden with the Starfire engine Peak power output for the Starfire was 58 kW (78 hp), with a 17.5 second acceleration time from 0–100 kilometres (0–62 mi) in the VC Commodore. This variant's performance meant the need to push the engine hard leading to fuel consumption similar to the straight-sixes. Due to this, it was often nicknamed as Misfire or Backfire.
  13. I'm sorry my comment about adding the flush to new engine oil and then draining was meant in a general way. Because most EOF that we can buy just say to add this to the oil before draining (after running for X amount of time). And whilst I can understand why they say this, but adding this to engine oil that is already at the end of it's life (as well as the oil filter) is the least effective way of doing it. For me once I find something that works, I usually just stick with it. But I do like to "experiment" which is why I decided to try Liquimoly Molygen 10W30 (which is apparently full synthetic) The 5W30 comes up as incompatible on both Autobarn's list, as well as Liqui Moly Australia for my car. What led me down that garden path is that I was looking at Liqui Moly additives, and what's available here in Australia, And decided that instead of adding an additive to my usual oil (Shell Helix ultra 5W30, usually the ECT), I would just buy Liqui Moly oil which is roughly the same price as my usual oil. I have plenty of my usual oil on hand so if it doesn't work out, I'll just change it :-) (https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Brands/LiquiMoly/Liqui-Moly-Molygen-New-Generation-10W-30-5L/p/OA04961)
  14. Sorry this is a bit late, but better late than never 😉 All new Camry's now are a minimum of 95 octane fuel, which to me is neither here nor there since that is what I use. The major issue that I have is that they finally give it some power, and an 8 speed, but have it (non-hybrid) available on the base model..... For the Rav 4 it may have the smaller engine because of an age old "flaw" in philosophy. Yes different gearing helps, but in general a smaller engine will use more fuel than a larger engine (all things being equal). Last year I was in the lovely town of Parkes, and in the information centre is a couple museums. One of which has a cut down Magna, which tells the story of how when the 2.4L was available and was advertised as using less fuel than the 3.0 or 3.5 at the time, the vast majority of the 2.4L users found that they used MORE fuel than the 3.0/3.5 L Magna's. The reason is simple, the small engine only uses less fuel if you don't require it to do more than extremely sedate driving....

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