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6 A Little Bit of Respect

About Valkie2

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  1. After reading your post I checked all the vac hoses, all good. But I did replace the MAF sensor, I had a spare in the shed. This seems to have fixed the problem, hasn't done it since. And on the matter of engine check lights. I pulled the plug from the MAF sensor while the engine was running (the engine stopped, go figure?) But the engine warning light came on. The trick to turn it back off is simple, thought you might like to know. Turn the engine on and off three times in succession....light out. However, if it comes back on again, you got issues. Cheers
  2. Another upgrade for the old ECHO. Fitted a light bar. I found the standard candles insufficient to see the road at night, I even got out and checked to see if my headlights had failed and I was driving on the parkers. But no, they were working, just poorly. And the high beam, honestly? Its no brighter and it simply shifts the focus from 3 feet in front of the car to 6 feet. This light bar makes all the difference, I can now see kilometers up the road. Next, I'm looking for a cruise control, I drive an hour each way on the freeway every day. My poor old foot is getting cramps, I have not driven a car without cruise control in 25 years, its killing me. Oh and I replaced the MAF sensor last week. Cannot say it made all that much difference to the power or performance, but its stopped that damn first stop stalling issue.
  3. Hi All; Just a question, someone might know. My little 20 year old ECHO starts first kick every time. Idles away, no problem. I can take off and drive it, and as long as I don't stop for at least 1-2 klm, it never has an issue. But I drive 50 meters to the corner of my street, stop, and then drive up the road...every day. The car stalls when I hit the gas after stopping, nearly every time. Only this once, once its warmed up or has driven 1-2 klm, never an issue. It has also done this at work, where I drive about 50 meters to the front gate, stop and drive off....again, occasional stall. The car is otherwise performing faultlessly, if a little gutless (but that's because I'm used to much bigger engines) I drive 75-80 klm each way every day, at highway speeds, no problem. and I can start it and drive any time after its warmed up without any stalling, its only when its cold that it has a problem. I recently replaced the plugs, made no difference. Any suggestions??????
  4. Well, did a service on the little Eco on the weekend. Nice new oil and filter. Nice new plugs Replaced the rear brake shoes finally. What a shocker of a setup. you need three hands and fingers the size of a child with the strength of Hercules to fit the damn things. But they are in now, all nice and new no problems with the seals, no leakage, but I think the brakes were last blead back in 1999. The colour and condition of the brake fluid was terrible. But at least now the brakes feel better and even the handbrake dosen't have to be pulled to the roof to lock the back wheels. such fun old cars.
  5. The 15w40 made a huge difference to my daughters car. It was using around 1 litre between services, sometimes more over summer with the heat and air conditioning going all the time. But since using 15w40, there is no noticeable oil usage and it seems quieter and smoother. I cant say its improved the performance any, but at least I can be confident that she wont run out of oil. Many years ago, my sister brought her Capella to me because it was "running rough" and mum said I might be able to fix it. When she pulled up it sounded like someone has tipped a bag of marbles onto a cement mixer and run it dry. Lifting the bonnet, I was confronted with radiant heat and a smell of burning oil. It went like this. the radiator was virtually empty, when it cooled down it took 7 min before the hose overflowed. (the bottom hose clamp was loose) Checking the oil, there was nothing on the dipstick, 2 litres later it was at the add mark nearly three litres to fill it. The No 3 spark plug lead was hanging in mid air, not connected The air filter was drenched in oil, probably from the oil burning and going out the PCV. The plugs were gapped at nearly 3mm, not the 0.8 specified The tyres were all low, one was 15 psi When I asked her about the warning lights(i didn't check before I started filling) she said they always come on, all the time. That damn car went for 3 more years, before she finally wrote it off, not giving way. I serviced it every 6 months and it hardly ever used any oil again and the water stayed in the engine. Them were the days.
  6. I might be a little overcritical of the poor little Echo. It's a small, old and abused car. I have driven mostly 6 cylinder Ford's and Holdens over the Years Company cars all, so they always go harder and faster, and can jump gutters at speed. But my new job sees me without a company car, and it's horrible. 35 years of company cars and now I have to buy a car, pay for petrol and rego and insurance and servicing , its a nightmare. But, such is life. At least I have my echo, so life is good.
  7. The road noise is dreadful. I blame to tyres that appear to be the cheapest that the previous owner could source and they are quite hard. The engine itself is quite quiet, and the gearbox only whines as you are getting up to speed. Acceleration is an interesting exercise though. 1) stamp on accelerator 2) listen to the engine rev its guts out 3) watch the speedo climb, very slowly. I buy 95 not the crap they sell cheap. it does too much damage to the various fuel and engine components to drive on the cheap crap. My 80 horsepower Mercury outboard strongly suggests only 95, not 98 or the Estuff. I figure if that engine needs good stuff, because it works at near full revs all the time, I should stick to the good stuff for my other vehicles.
  8. Yeah, the Echo fuel economy is great. Nearly as good as my wife's Suzuki Ignis (5.1l/100k) But her car is only 2 years old, the mighty Echo is 21 this year. I actually bought it so I could cut back on the milage I was doing in my new MUX, I have clocked up 45000 in less than 12 months just driving to work and back every day. The warranty would run out before I start towing my van around Australia. But the Echo is brilliant, a little noisy, a little uncomfortable, but heaps better than many cars I have owned in the past. There is no public transport for me, wish there was, but it would take two trains and two busses to get me to work from where I live and I dread to think how long it would take. Tomorrow is MUX day, I drive it once a week to keep it running nice. The Echo gets filled up today, Ill have 700 klm on this tank (or thereabouts) when I fill it this afternoon. I'm expecting less than 39 litres to fill, cant be unhappy about that.
  9. It was a bit different when I was riding my bike. I owned a Valkyrie (hence my forum name) This is a 1500cc, 6 cylinder boxer engine with 6 carbys (just to get plenty of fuel into the pots) From a standing start, I could get the beast up to 100 klm/ hr in less than 3 seconds (basically across a largish intersection) Which was pretty impressive considering it weighed over 340kg and was a cruiser, not a sports bike. But it did tend to go through the petrol a bit. 32 MPG (about 9.2l/100k) was about normal. And I had to replace the tyres every year at over $400.00 a tyre. Full synthetic engine/ gearbox oil was a hit to the hip pocket and don't even ask about the insurance. But I loved my bike, did many miles on it and had a ball. Had to give it up when I got vertigo (and the damn vertigo went away a couple of years later) Probably saved my life.
  10. Yep, that's why so many people have issues with them after they let the tank run dry. But I was reasonably certain that I would have plenty of fuel Well, I filled up last night, after driving with the little flashing light for 150klm It took 34.8 liters to fill her up (leaving around 10 liters in the tank. I drove a total of 633.3 klm Thus giving me a 51.4 MPG or 5.5 l/100k or 18.2 klm/ liter I do have to admit though, I drive freeway every day, no real hills and I'm an easy driver. Not in any hurry, no need to overtake most cars and I don't think powering away at lights is really anything important. I'm happy with the little beast, clocked up nearly 4000 klm in a month and filled her up 8 times. I'm even starting to knock out a few dents and I'm considering giving her a spray job. We shall see.
  11. Just ordered the new shoes for the brakes, they are starting to make noise and its annoying. Quite cheap, bendex shoes for the Echo for $32.00 suits me. If there is any brake fluid leak, Ill have to service the cylinders, we shall see when I pull her down. I have been watching the milage carefully, I have a dicky fuel gauge, and so far every time I fill up there is at least 15 litres left in the tank. I get 5.6 l/100k consistently, but I do drive predominantly freeway, and I have a light foot. By my calculations, I should be able to get over 700 klm per tank, but I have been filling up at 500 because the little light starts flashing at 488 klm. My fuel gauge is interesting The first 200k it shows totally full. as I reach around 230 to 250 it drops down to three bars. It sits on three, sometimes two bars for the next 200 plus klm. then at around 288 klm it goes into blinking mode. Today I decided to chance it, I drive 75 klm each way to work. I started this morning with 490 klm and a blinking light (OUT OF FUEL) It got me to work (75klm) and Ill drive home tonoght (75 klm), Ill fill up when I get home, if i get home. But its damn disconcerting when your fuel gauge is flashing at you all the time.
  12. You think petrol cars have issues. The wonderful old diesels are gradually being choked to death by their own exhaust because of the "pollution" gear they have introduced. Once upon a time, diesels ran forever had no real problems and were quite good on fuel, as well as pulling like a malley bull. Now they have PCV to recirculate the fumes, oil, water and crap that is floating around in the crankcase back through the intake and engine. Because diesels breath a bit heavier, this mess coats the sides of the intake and gives the EGR carbon a nice little place to stick to. EGR, was designed to take a percentage of the exhaust and again re-circulate it back through the engine. This is to "cool" the exhaust gasses as it cannot burn (having already been burnt) and stops the engine from having such a hot combustion, in theory, this reduces the NOX gasses that do so much damage to people. But this recirculated exhaust gas has lots of carbon from the burn, this carbon sticks to the walls of the intake, so liberally coated in Crankcase fumes and over time clogs the thing like a KFC eating fat mans heart. Then, just to make sure that a once reliable and long lasting engine will require more expensive repairs, they add a DPF, (Diesel Particulate Filter) a lazy patch to capture particulates from the exhaust and burn it off into oblivion in an additional waste of fuel called a "regeneration" process. Of course this little joy has a tendency to clog up if the vehicle isn't driven in a very specific and special manner, or if the wrong oil is used, or if you get a bad dose of fuel, or......etc..... Toyota has a class action pending because of this little gem. The once reliable old diesel workhorse is now a temperamental, breakdown prone and less reliable toy than it has ever been. My biggest mistake was to buy a modern diesel to tow my caravan, I should have purchased a pre-DPF diesel, I might just do so anyway and get rid of the one I have. Technology is good when designed well, well made and is robust. Unfortunately, when talking cars, its never designed well, usually cheaply made and as robust as your grandmothers crystal wine glasses.
  13. You may have what is known as Pre-Ignition, Detonation, Knock or Pinging: These are often noticeable at different times or different revs depending on the circumstances and issue. Pre-ignition is as it states, the fuel burning or cumbusiting before the piston reaches its ideal position (just before TDC) it sounds like a rattle, but usually under load. It also robs the engine of power, so if you have no noticeable power loss, this may not be your problem. It can be caused by several things, Carbon build up on the piston, too hot a plug, the wrong fuel, too lean a mix (which in itself brings many many associated issues with sensors and manifolds etc. Check you plugs, if they are exhibiting signs of cooking or overheating, you need to get things checked out. Most modern cars have KNOCK sensors as well, these detect the knock and adjust the fuel accordingly to prevent it, if this little gem starts playing up, you will have a problem. Then there is the MAF, MAP and other sensors, all designed to measure the air and fuel mix to achieve optimum operating conditions, if one fails, everything gets messed up. Finally there is the oxygen sensor, if this baby clogs, cooks or simply dies, the engine cannot smell its own farts and has a fit. it can cause all manner of issues with fuel and air mix. Diagnosing a "knock or Rattle" is quite a job, probably best left to experts who have all the fancy gear to check sensors and fault codes. Or you can go down the path of replacing things and seeing if it makes a difference. For me, that's the hard way, for a few bucks, Id rather have someone else have a look. Once correctly diagnosed, you can repair at yourself.
  14. Its annoying how those little things can cause so much grief. Bring back the old days when the only electronics in a car was the headlights. My old 1956 Morris Minor barely had those, and the windscreen wipers changed speed with the engine revs. But you could repair just about anything in 10 min with parts from the wreckers. Just because it had a top speed of 70 k/hr and all the pulling power of a sick cat, it was still great.
  15. There are generally a few reasons engines burn oil. wrong oil for the purpose. worn engine damaged cylinders or rings faulty PCV valve. cheap quality oil but when assessing the cause, all must be considered Most manufacturers look toward low viscosity oil for the cars to Get better mileage, flow easier in low temperatures and because its standard across a large number of environments. But if you look at your book, you will see that there are different oils for different temps, and unless you are running in the negative temp range, 10w or 15w will suit most situations. At the other end of the scale, when you get up around the 40c deg range, as we get in Australia, the 30 weights are working at their limit, especially cheaper quality oils. 40 weights fare better in these hot environments. I use 10w or 15w oils in my petrol and diesel engines, I don't get as much oil in my catch can on my diesel as i did when I was using 5 weight oils. This would indicate, to me, that 10w is not turning to vapor as much as the 5w, and any oil that turns to vapors is going straight through the PCV valve through the engine and out the exhaust. And all engines use at least some oil, it lubricates the rings into the cylinder, its a part of the process and without it, your engine would seize pretty quick. But most drivers, and especially those who do short trips or who never get their cars up to a good high temperate (such as highway driving) would not notice this loss, as the oil is being replaced by the un-burnt fuel, water and other crap from the combustion process and it appears that the oil level never changes. In some diesels you have to watch this carefully because the oil level actually rises. How much is too much to loose? How long is a piece of string? If you have smoke coming out the back of your car, can smell burning oil, have oily plugs or have a film of oil on the tailgate. I suggest you have a problem. However if you have to add a bit of oil between oil changes, and you have none of the above, its just how it is. I have been told Rolls Royce cars burn a fair bit of oil, and that its deliberate, to increase the longevity of the engine, but never having owned one, I cannot deny or confirm. If you are concerned, try 10w or 15w, if it solves the problem, happy days, if not dig deeper. Cheers