TommyM

11 hours ago, Hiro said:

You mean quarter windows?  Opera windows haven't been on cars since the ~'70s/80s (and then mainly on vinyl-roofed pimpmobiles)

Quarter windows/opera windows. Similar concept haha. But yes the body integrated quarter windows vs putting a massive "C" pillar. Vinyl roofed pimpmobiles, love it 🤣🤣

Patterson Cheney Toyota in Dandenong were the original selling dealer back in the day. They admire seeing it come in from time to time. Some of the guys say the Avalon's weren't exactly world class, but they were exceptionally well built cars. Combined with the amount of Lexus bits you find in'em. They're solid

Still rep the dealer plate covers too 

4 hours ago, KAA said:

Yes mate it shows the tLC you put into keeping her immaculate. I am also the same way so our 2009 Aurion Presara "Faye" is also perfect for a 14 year old beauty. I love taking my beloved wife out in a clean quiet super comfy beauty as it is what both deserve. 

Thanks for the Pic's mate here is some of our "Faye"

KAA

Looking good as always, the only thing i wish they'd kept from the Avalon is the opera windows in the body, because the blind spots in the avalon are minimal vs the later aurions. I swear the "woodgrain effect" trim was carried over because my steering wheel looks identical 😂

Same with my trim pieces. Atleast there was pros & cons with either model. End of the day i'll probably be selling my G6E at some point & moving to a later gen V6 Camry SL or late 16'/17' Aurion Presara. Still cross shopping a few things, but ol'e faithful is here to stay. Funnily enough the 4sp is way more willing to kickdown vs my ZF box FG at times can be "Napping". Although i'm undecided on being picky and finding a cashmere interior Aurion/Camry or going black. I've always liked the cashmere interior on my G6E, although a bi**h to keep clean.

9 hours ago, KAA said:

Tom the fact the engine was so clean shows how well you look after your baby, glad all went well doing the services required and now you know just how good she is into the future. Thanks for the Pic's mate

KAA

Also considering it's been a while, here's how the interior is looking. Combined with replacing the headliner due to age it was starting to drop. However everything else is original.

Don't mind the sheen, i'd just used a leather conditioner that previous day, not silicone s**t. Also hint the new power steering reservoir 😆

I do have floor mats but took'em out for the images initially.

8 hours ago, KAA said:

Tom the fact the engine was so clean shows how well you look after your baby, glad all went well doing the services required and now you know just how good she is into the future. Thanks for the Pic's mate

KAA

Hell i even brought genuine gaskets/tube seals because they're funnily cheaper than aftermarket & without a doubt better. 😂😂

I was really suprised though considering the reputation these have for build up, sludge, etc. My mechanic (who i also know personally), and his son i grew up with basically said.

Hell i even brought genuine gaskets/tube seals because they're funnily cheaper than aftermarket & without a doubt better. 😂😂

"Because whenever you do drive it, you put it through a full heat cycle, that combined with 7500km or less intervals & the best quality oil although over kill is why it's so clean, cams have minimal wear same with the bucket shims". 

I've been running Castrol Edge A3/B4 for a while now & it's the quietest it's ever been, i found with Penrite near the 5000km mark there'd be a little more valvetrain noise during the OCI, however since going to Castrol it's quiet all the way through the service interval. The fact this thing has no oil consumption issues currently suprises me more so 😂

To date it's ran

Penrite ENVIRO+ GF5 & GFS (not bad but could be a little better, great in my FG though)

Castrol Edge 5w30 A3/B4 (API SL*, MB 229.5 approval)

Penrite ENVIRO+ 5w40 (C3/MB 229.51 approval)

Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 

And earlier during the previous owner who my fam knew, Mobil 1 5w30, but it's a PITA to source same with Shell Helix Ultra in bulk so i just stuck with Penrite/Castrol. 

Now i'm almost due for a new set of rubber. Contemplating

Falken Ziex ZE310

Hankook Ventus Prime 4

Yokohama BluEarth AE51-GT 

I've driven vehicles with Primacy 4 & 4 ST, but they're way to soft for the handling i require or reassurance grip.

I did just have a set of Dunlop SP Sport FM800's, they were a solid tyre, but felt a bit too devoid of road feel & a little too soft for my liking. How's things with the aurion squad ?

G'day @Tony Prodigy @Hiro

Hope you've all been well, i've been pretty MIA from the forum. Had alot of work i've done to my Avalon, including common maintenance things. Just replaced the rocker cover gaskets because they were leakin a bit. Did the full timing kit inc all gaskets, waterpump, etc again recently. New control arms, balljoints, etc

Did the headliner which looks beautiful 

New front bumper which really sharpened up the front end.

However i thought i'd forward some images of how clean my engine actually is given it's clocking up close to 275,000km.

I was honestly surprised with how clean the valvetrain is given these are notorious to get dirty, sludge etc. My mechanic even said it's the cleanest 1MZ-FE he works on with similar k's

On 7/26/2022 at 7:38 AM, campbeam said:

I am sure that most Avalon or Camry V6 owners would have a similar experience particularly on the open highway.

I think that it is about having the right engine and transmission combination for your vehicle then keeping them both well maintained for optimum performance.

Exactly, the Avalon has a more aggressive timing tune vs the Camry so i've found from a mate of mine who's a tuner, even back in the day Toyota press paperwork spec that Avalon's have a better tune, even though they make more power & torque on paper, it's not just the tune, it's also peak timing allowed under WOT, transmission programming, 3.93 final drive isn't exactly freeway friendly but it pulls very f**king hard vs the common 3.08 final drives fitted to Commodores, 3.23 for Falcon's, etc. 

Many factors, having driven similar condition Camry & Avalon's, the Avalon higher output does show evident especially in the midrange where the Camry felt choked, but the Avalon's do have a variable backpressure muffler. Something kinda bespoke to'em. I have no issues losing traction even in the dry if i plant it too hard.

I run both my cars on 95RON minimum for comparison.

On 7/26/2022 at 7:38 AM, campbeam said:

I have noticed how the auto transmission drops down a gear or 2 to keep the V6 on the upward path of the torque curve particularly when overtaking on the highway.

I honestly found it sometimes semi annoying how it will willingly drop a gear with the slightest throttle input, when cruising at 80km/h. However if you want the full WOT kickdown, i find the A541E's very eager to deliever firmly & directly. Then again they are an adaptive auto so it's probably down to my drive style. I've stuck with Toyota Type IV spec fluid in mine & it's been great. 

Honestly at times the kickdown of my Avalon feels more aggressive/willing than my ZF 6HP in comparison. I have no issue leaving some commodore & falcons at a merger or set of lights. They're not speed based, but they definitely move if you want them to.

So it's been brought to my attention from a mate looking at buying a new Prado, however his concern & naturally mine too. So he wants to retain the factory wheels, but the new 19" design has an utterly stupid tyre size setup for ALL-TERRAIN rubber, not the half ar**ed factory Dunlop AT30's which are utter junk.

OE size now is 265/55/R19 (VX & Kakadu) same size, different design

Yet NONE of the good AT's come in that size. So for peace of mind & obviously put in advisory sizes 

Would there be any ill effect or negatives going for lets say 

255/55/R19 or 255/60/R19

*NOTE rim width is only 7.5"* (7.5J)

Seeing as that opens up ALOT more real AT's !

Falken Wildpeak AT3W, Yokohama Geolander G015, Continental CrossContact AX6, etc just to name a few reputables. 

Send through your ideas ladies & gents !

😊😊😊

On 4/29/2022 at 10:12 AM, Haberdasher said:

Hi all again , my posting was really to see if anyone else has had the same success with a OBD2 reader as I did (hope that was the case). I see from a previous  posted topic on this Avalon forum (April last year I think, yes I have read the post right through)) stating difficulty in retrieving any code info because apparently these models weren`t OBD2 compliant . My personal experience over the last decade or two ,was not much code info could be retrieved because these models sat between OBD1 and OBD2 (could be just false info I read), but no matter what I tried ,nothing could be retrieved, until the use of my latest code reader. Anyway ,all is good and I have just ordered new Genuine Denso air /fuel  02 sensors here in Australia for $120 Au(for both) plus $10 Au delivery and Denso IK20TT iridium s/plugs (6) on line for $71.00 Au delivered. Every now and then you have a win . Cheers BL

I've had good success with my scan tool, i mainly monitor LTFT's, STFT's, MAF, timing advance, etc to diagnose issues, even being OBD.

2 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Yep, even better Tommy if the grade you need comes in that quantity and when it comes on sale too.

Yeah i'm sticking with the Penrite ENVIRO+ 5w40. Brilliant s**t. 

On 3/17/2022 at 9:17 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

I hear you mate. Assume it's 4lt per oil change, purchase and stock up on 6lt size and have enough for 2 or 3 changes depending on how many you have on hand. Whatever you don't use, keep for top ups.

You get more for less with the 6lt

It's weird how some Yota's consume decent amounts of oil, and others don't. literally every service, atleast on mine. I might get 40ml in the oil/air seperator, checking the dipstick, that bish be full still. Just usual crankcase vapour/oil that would have otherwise been burnt through combustion. I buy in 20L quantities because having 2 cars it doesn't last long 🤣

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Hahaha, don't I know it. If you can't or won't do it right, then you probably shouldn't do it. There is comfort in having all your ducks in a row 😄

Good aiming practice 🤣🤣🤣

56 minutes ago, KAA said:

Thanks Tommy, your not alone in having that precise document keeping method I have every receipt of everything I have bought done or had done as well. All filed and in date order I went through them about 6 months ago and wrote on any what it was used for ex: Bought Turtle Wax Flex Wax applied date etc. So OCD is handy as well as annoying LOL

Keep Safe and Strong Mate

KAA

I've got all the invoices when i did shocks, new springs which really improved handling substantially, only things i wana do now is a bigger sway bar, hd sway bar links & control arm bushes all round. I sacrificed minimal comfort for straight line stability. Combined with the Dunlop SP FM800's it scoots along real well & stops on a dime !

22 hours ago, KAA said:

Thanks Tommy, Love new toys, so thanks for posting the pic's. Yes keep good notes and if like me your OCD kicks in you can check and recheck. handy toy to have so if anything does show up you have details already in your hand and can source fixes gotta love modern tech when it works LOL

Thanks Mate

KAA

The pics were @Haberdasher not mine, i've got a scan tool myself it's how i've diagnosed issues with both my cars which have since been rectified. My OCD already kicks in as it is 🤣🤣 - e.g i only will use certain tyres, brands, etc. I already have every service on my Toyota filed on a document to compact every invoice going back to 4km lol

Just simplified it by going date, dealer (where applicable), and km's 

In 260k it's had like 7 transmission services off memory 🤣 - my fluid comes out red af still even at 45,000km when i change it. External transmission coolers are definitely a blessing haha !

19 hours ago, Haberdasher said:

Well, decided to go further with the scanner by plugging in and press auto scan, it communicated and then I pressed diagnostics and the photos below show what this scanner can do where many others have failed due to software , again I`m not promoting anything or anyone ,just great to come out of the dark after 20 years of Avalon ownership with hard specific info to help diagnose a problem or future problems, it does on board diagnostics for this model at least , RPM ,temp ,mass air flow, O2, sensors and the list goes on. Maybe someone has already found all this out before and I`m behind the 8 ball but at least it has been posted now. Cheers from the great north.

I'd be making some notes or investigating why on bank 1 you've got -5.5% LT fuel trim yet on bank 2 you're running spot on at 0.0% (- trims thus taking away fuel)

One banks running a bit richer than the other. Obviously the tolerances for a CEL were far greater back then vs what they are now.

Obviously numerous reasons can cause it, the fun part of diagnostics 🤣

On 3/11/2022 at 10:42 PM, Chunki LaFanga said:

Hi bob007,

You do realise that a Hybrid is a ICE with an electric motor, the purpose being to save fuel. I had a 2015 Camry Ascent Petrol and I used to get 9.9L/100km (already better than yours) on 91RON. I then switched to the new 2019 Camry Ascent Sport Hybrid in 2019 and have been getting between 4.8 and 5.2L/100km using either 95RON or 98RON (minimum recommended is 95. You do the math if that would save you money to get more than 217.31% the mileage from spending 20% more on petrol... I'm glad I got myself a Hybrid. Better handling, better specs, newer technology. Even the old Hybrids get at least 5.8L/100km, which would be just over half of your current consumption.

That's interesting because i just filled up one of my cars tonight, computer said i've used 59L when in fact i was only able to put in 52L. (30sec break 2 click method) very accurate in my opinion to allow any foaming to settle, etc.

I'd completed 462km since my fill, so 462km ÷ 52.04L = 8.8L i was averaging over the loop, which for a V6 & an old gal is more than respectable in my opinion. My 04' Avalon (Mark 3) does better over similar distance than my FG G6E (6sp auto) 🤣

Mind you i'm not exactly light footed at times.

Both running 98RON

17 hours ago, Hiro said:

If it's anything like my parent's '96 Camry, if you don't close the boot lid properly with the car locked it'll beep the horn too

Or if i don't shut my Avalon boot fully then re-open it, the alarm sets off, because i'm guessing even though it didn't latch fully it detects a forced open event. Oops, sorry neighbours 🤣🤣🤣

I ripped out the puntsy single horn and fitted a set of twin horns from my G6E (High & low tone) significantly louder than before, atleast f**kers move out of my way now. Funny thing, the horns were made in Italy hahaha. So the single horn is gone thankfully.

20 minutes ago, Hiro said:

 

This is just the pedant in me coming out, but Aisan and Aisin are two completely different companies.  Both are deeply associated with Toyota however - Aisan will be mainly engine components (historically carburetors and fuel systems) and Aisin will be predominantly drivetrain components (although they do engine stuff too along with just about everything else)

Valid point, but even my old unit said Aisan which i just thought was an "I", regardless it's suprising to find a genuine part, the magnetic on the lower section is actually a Toyota part funny enough 🤣🤣

So it's more a Toyota/Aisan part haha !

I noticed that Aisan in parts on my Yota, thought i was tripping but obviously not. 🙂

People ask why use ENVIRO+ in an older Toyota ?, it's simple. Better additives than comparable HPR, etc - Plus mine called for API SM (GF-4) i believe was the equivalent. 260k later, still runs like a swiss watch.

G'day all, hope everyones well.

Thought i'd give you all an update

No.1 - i'm not dead 🤣

Just been stupidly busy with things recently, got around to fixing a few things that were bothering me on my Avalon (mostly the ridiculous 2000rpm cold start idle) - which turned out to be a faulty ISCV (f**k me it was expensive) to me it was only $290 for a genuine Toyota/Aisin part, list price was around $620, so tomorrow i'll check with a full cold start & go from there. Last service was done roughly 1000km ago, sent the last of the Penrite ENVIRO+ GFS 5w30 off to blackstone for analysis, oil sample came back great, only worthy mention was slightly higher lead content which isn't to say the oil was the issue, that itself tested fine, but it had sheared alot due to the nature of how bad the MZ engine family destroy oil. I've also fitted an oil/air seperator which is catching oil swiftly. So i've gone to the ENVIRO+ 5w40 for one big reason, the higher TBN (additive pack) & Viscosity index (more stable across various temp ranges) - bit better shear too.

I don't think the ISCV is supposed to have chunks missing 🤣

Combined with the magnetic being fried on the cold temp range (under 40°C) engine temp. Resistance values were out of spec.

Below i provided a copy of my oil analysis. It'll be interesting to see how the next sample tests in 7500km

oil%20sample.docx

I do recall some Avalon's having the ability to physically lock the barrel (valet mode) by inserting the master key & turning the key counter clockwise. Where as some models don't have the option.

I think it's more lower end models without the alarm, remote boot release, etc. So in that respect i think they're slightly different internally.

E.g GXi & VXi 

Grande has a few bespoke parts & believe me, good luck finding some of'em 🤣🤣

22 hours ago, Hiro said:

Are you trying to remove the headlight assembly or the indicator assembly?  The indicator housing (where the parkers are on the US models too it seems) only has one screw on the top and then it just pops out (there might be a clip/pin at the bottom that needs a bit of force to unclip, this is the case on my AE102 which has a similar arrangement).  The headlight assembly has to come out second (not that you'd need to take it out to change an indicator bulb) as there is a nut at the bottom/side in behind the indicator housing as well as the two bolts on top

 

EDIT: hang on, looks like the last of the MXC10s had that single-piece headlight housing which I don't think the US ever got, in which case there looks to be two screws on the bottom as well as two at the top (one at the inner bottom "tip" next to the grille, one on the outer bottom "side" behind the bumper, which means you may need to remove the bumper (sounds like a pain but is common on a lot of newer cars

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403181509815?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=403181509815&targetid=1278990506306&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9112793&poi=&campaignid=10101784946&mkgroupid=125571292951&rlsatarget=pla-1278990506306&abcId=9300367&merchantid=507151891&gclid=CjwKCAiAgbiQBhAHEiwAuQ6BkqwLbiB_mlwCURSAJS-FmNAfTvVo4EzTONdBKooCfCqAUL6ZU8Y4SxoC1CMQAvD_BwE

Australian Mark 3 Avalon's got the one piece headlight/indicator housing correct, and what's sad is the beam travel distance on low & high beam especially is still further than my FG MKII G6E projectors lol

23 hours ago, Brackenboy said:

On my 2004 MCX10 need to replace the front LH indicator bulb but cannot remove the headlight assembly. After the screws at the top are removed there seems to be something holding it back at the bottom. I have tried a few youtube vids but they are all for American Avalons and not helpful, and the Gregory's Workshop Manual is pretty useless dealing mainly with the Camry and no illustrations where they say there should be. The rear light assembly is quite easy to remove as I have done this in the past. There must be something retaining the bottom of the light assembly which I can't find. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

There's one or two bolts hidden under the front bumper if mind serves correct. Basically you may need to remove the front bumper to access it. I know mine being a Mark 3 the headlight/indicator is all one unit, so i know i need to remove my front bumper soon because i need to replace my headlights due to the plastic lenses getting a bit "how you doin". 

This is a simple friendly thread regarding oil filters for most Toyota models.

Now people have stuck by Ryco as an aftermarket filter for the longest period, some say genuine is best, in Toyota's case the old Japanese made Denso filters were brilliant, but now being made in Thailand i personally feel the quality isn't there like they used to. I did an interesting comparison, so i brought a genuine Toyota filter from my dealer & i weighed an aftermarket brand i personally swear by because quality is top notch.

I run Mann-Hummel oil filters in all of my cars, also when i was working for Mercedes-Benz, 90% of all filters were Mann-Hummel, which has been the supplier to Mercedes filters for 50+ years. After numerous personal testing myself i can see why the company has such good quality reputations.

I was curious because i noticed the noticeable weight difference between Toyota/Denso & Mann-Hummel 

So... to my suprise the Mann-Hummel filter has more filter media throughout, even at the base. I tapped the bottom of the Toyota filter which sounded hollow, repeated on the Mann-Hummel.... suprise, suprise.... it made a solid thunk because it was filled all the way through.

The photos below show a direct comparison in weight 

Toyota/Denso - 248g

Mann-Hummel - 301g

Now 53g doesn't sound like much, but when it comes to filters, simply more filter media.

I highly recommend Mann-Hummel because not only is the quality there, but the filters are "Made In Germany". Now half of Denso filters are "Made In Thailand"

Denso PN: 90915-YZZD2

Mann-Hummel PN: W 712/83

Ryco PN: Z418 (for simple reference) - The only thing Ryco i use are cabin filters. Wesfil have too much air flow restriction, genuine are nothing special where i personally use the MicroShield cabin filters.

But Toyota used these Z418 spin on filters in ALOT of models.

On a side note

I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas this stressful 2021 !

As much as i respect the Aurions, i just don't see them lasting as long with less issues. Toyota went downhill mid 00's sadly. The MZ family was probably one of Toyota's best V6's. With a noticeable deep growl up top, the GR's just don't have the character or buttery smooth "waft" effect. They pull well though. 

12 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

130K is nothing. At the rate you're going you'll never need either to be  honest. But in saying that, and based on Tommy's experience, these older Toyota's were pretty robust and reports of premature failure for these are rare. 

Sorry about the delay gents, been a busy day haha !

Just had pads, rotors & parking brake shoes done today, jesus what a difference in the pedal feel, bite & stopping power in comparison to the Toyota pads that were in it prior. Exactly !, my mechanic who i know personally is shocked at just how smooth the engine still is, even with 257k on it. It's the best MZ he's worked on in the last 20 odd years. Doesn't burn any oil at all, starts everytime, etc. I run full synthetic fluids wherever possible - even my transmission is smooth, yet shifts are quick yet firm since i've really gotten the full synthetic through it. Nothing is wrong with it besides the timing belt probably being nearing replacing due to age, plus i've got a few idlers ****** me off so i might do it next year sometime. 

I don't exactly give my Toyota an easy life at times, when needed i bury my right foot without hesitation & it just goes without second thought. Once fully up to temp obviously 

Run it on 95RON minimum (98RON generally as a rule obviously), same with my G6E

@Toyollac I wouldn't worry about things breaking prematurely, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But preventative maintenance such as better tyres, 7500km oil change intervals as per Toyota, trans every 40k, good pads/rotors, etc will easily see these old tanks pass well into the hundreds of thousands in terms of kilometres. But i'm very anal on my maintenance schedule