TommyM

Was it a b*tch to do or ?

There isn't many Avalon owners that's for sure haha ! Suprised you've had to replace yours if i'm honest..... Considering the 1MZ's starter is shared among the Kluger, RX300, etc. Alternators are interchangeable with the Kluger, etc (thus being higher outputs) Plenty parts availability when you look at all models fitted with the MZ engine family.

I've still got the original Denso starter in my 04' Avalon & original alternator. 255k & counting. Bearings are quiet, no pulley noise, etc I wouldn't replace it as a preventative, because bosch quality has dropped significantly since 2004 sadly. Leave the original Denso starter until it actually quits haha ! Had my air-con regassed as maintenance not long ago, also dyed. System held 800g +/- 10g, recovered 794g, so a loss of 6g in what ?, 17 years ?, they really spent time back then making quality components. Toyota rely too much on the name now yet plenty other brands trumph them in reliability haha ! Never been gassed until now, wasn't dyed, now it's just as cold as i recall haha !

@Toyollac Compared to my average fuel economy in my G6E though it's impressive. I hate the ridiculously long 2.73 final drive in my Falcon compared to my Toyota's not so highway friendly 3.93 final drive haha ! I honestly reckon 3.07's or 3.23's would improve fuel economy & performance across the range, even with the ZF 6HP26 in my G6E haha !

Running minimum 95RON in these 1MZ-FE's does keep them substantially cleaner. Along with long highway runs periodically The Nulon injector cleaner is better stuff, stronger concentration using less. Trust me Fresh oil change & atleast a 400km highway only run, cruise control & she'll clean up a bit more

I'm averaging about 8.8L p/100km Especially better since i replaced the O2 sensors my fuel economy improved, i'm not exactly light footed either by any means. What fuse was it ?, if you looked at the diagram.

@Toyollac Hey interesting question... what's your average overall fuel economy in your Avalon at the moment ? Hope you've had the issue rectified. I'm not looking forward to next weekend sadly 😂😂

The best wiring diagrams are the ones you can get a hold of through some scan tools, a good toyota dealer will help you out, etc I wouldn't trust a Haynes if you paid me. The only ones reputable are genuine ones, good luck finding one though.

Unfortunately not 😂😂😂😂

Jesus, i'm sorry to hear you had someone botch a big expense. Especially re-doing a headlining. They've probably nicked a wire which could be shorting to ground thus blowing the fuse to protect the electrical system. There's also a fuse box hidden in behind the drivers kick panel where you'll find more things to do with locks, etc. This is why i only go to trimmers my mechanics have personally dealt with, because he's even more anal than i am.

Oh definitely plenty people would appreciate them, i for one really do like driving it long distance more than my G6E for one big reason, the seat base cushion is longer, thus my legs don't get fatigued (i'm roughly 6ft1), so after a long drive my legs can feel a little flat, if i've driven my G6E. Best thing is they have kick ***** air con too regardless of trim level, mine sits around the 2°C (at the vents) before the compressor kicks off. You do also get some top spec level exclusives you don't find on the VXi (mid spec) or even GXi (base). And believe me i hope i never have to replace'em haha ! A serviced 1MZ-FE is a sweet engine. Mines got 255k almost & i've had no issues with it at all. Replacing sensors, etc is all maintenance. Stick to the 7500km interval & i can almost bet you'll never have major issues. I fitted a catch can to my G6E recently (baffled setup) & boy am i suprised at how much s**t isn't going back through into my intake then my engine. Even freshly serviced 1500km ago there's a nice build up at the bottom of the can, i would reccomend it to anyone with a petrol engine. Very easy to service/maintain too ! I'm fitting one to my Toyota next service. When i get some photos i'll happily share my tidy setup i have on my FG currently. I over maintain my cars, but hey.... look at how clean/quiet they are by comparison 😁

Good luck ! Even the ignition coils could be possibly breaking down. I've been lucky with mine being original with over 250k, i've always ran 98RON in it because i know how anal the 1MZ's are & how sensitive they can be. Minimum should have been 95RON in my opinion like the Lexus ES300 (non VVTi)

It can actually be detrimental because if an O2 sensor is dead, it will default to a universal fuel trim strategy (aka rich) which will end up giving you oil dilution before the next service. They're easy enough on the Avalon to replace. I also nailed mine by doing testing, including multiple WOT pulls, noticeable flat spots in areas, etc. Now it pulls clean & hard all the way just over 6000rpm under WOT without any dead spots. I've also fitted a catch can as a preventative measure with the correct separator not the cheap steel wool special.

I had a similar issue not long ago. I replaced both the oxygen sensors because one was dead. Wasn't throwing a fault code suprisingly but the circuit was probably still good. I completely decarbonised the engine. Cleaned the throttle body, egr, etc. Also replaced spark plugs & put new leads. Been running flawlessly since. I replaced the fuel filter (in tank) & it actually picked up a bit more hp because the one in it was blocked as f**k 😂😂 Another thing worth mentioning. Were the correct twin tip platinum plugs used ? They run a waste spark system. Personally i stuck with original Denso spark plugs.

I do remember Toyota changing the starter for Mark 3 Avalons & other 1MZ-FE powered applications in 2003 for a higher output starter motor. I'd ring a reputable starter, get the one listed for yours based off your rego on the Toyota database, then ring a reputable parts store, give them the genuine number and see if it crosses over. Me personally ?, i wouldn't run anything but a Denso starter.

All Toyota Avalon's (Australian built) 2000 - 2005 (all trims levels) Mark 1, 2 & 3 Charge Capacity (courtesy of Croydon Toyota) 800g (+/- 50g) Effective system capacity 800g - 850g

Please feel free to post/submit (ideally from toyota or in your owners manual) your a/c refrigerant charge capacity, so that anybody enquiring will know accurate instead of third party false information. Like i've seen from numerous alternatives that do a/c components. Include a page image and/or information similar format how i've put it below 🙂 ALL TOYOTA/LEXUS MODELS INCLUDED

I think it was more than an evap coil, condenser, compressor, etc. To my knowledge, all i know is they're not cheap to replace 😂😂 My G6E holds 520g (+/- 10g) Most newer systems hold less & less. Hell a VF holds 470g. Refrigerant is a weird thing at how little amount can do the job, they'll never be as cold as older GM's though. I think the Aurion's aroung the 500g mark too off memory.

Mate of mine does a/c, so i just wana get the system checked. Every automotive a/c leaks a small miniscule percent every year. So it's a simple clean bill of health basically. My FG MKII (when they actually got the a/c right) is just as good as my Toyota in terms of coldness. Sub 4° temps at the vents. FG mark 1's though were awful, then they went backwards again with the FG-X lol They average 8° at the vents hahaha !

Those are the US systems. Upon ringing the Toyota dealers, two of which i know. They both verified it's an Australia-Specific system unlike the US models, bigger evap, etc. The Camry's run a different system although the 1MZ compressor is identical. All other components are different. Hence why they probably run around the 650g mark. Charge capacity from two dealers is actually 800g (+/- 50g) But i appreciate the help regardless. How can i get a sticky/thread put in the workshop area ? Lol

Hey all, just wondering if anyone happens to know the exact refrigerant capacity for an 04' Mark 3 Avalon ? Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to make a sticky/thread in the workshop area for all Toyota models & relevant refrigerant charge capacity. Camry, Landcruiser, Landcruiser Prado, Aurion, Avalon, Corolla, etc.

@Tony Prodigy I was doing some research and calling up a few contacts that i know. So i've used Penrite ENVIRO+ GFS in both my Toyota & G6E, now.... after several services i personally don't think it stands up to the expectations i want. I stick with their ATF's purely because i know they're brilliant, higher flashpoints than alot of the competition, similar composition makeup with a bit better additive/anti-wear packs, etc. But oil wise i'm switching to Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, upon looking as the base oils & GTL. I'm looking forward to having the protection i want, etc. The Ultra better competes with Penrites Ten Tenths range. Also i was very particular about the dynamic viscosity at -30 (Helix ultra's tested at -40), suppose shell wanted to go a bit further, along with at 40°C & 100°C. Now.... the HPR5 is brilliant don't get me wrong, but the base oils in the Helix Ultra exceed, whilst being a not overly thick 5w40 which is what i was after. Both are SP spec which is well above the specs back when they were new. It'll be interesting to see the results come the next intervals. Less impurities, better final product i say. Off memory Penrite & Nulon get alot of their oil from Singapore, where alot of the base in Shell is Qatar haha ! I remember one of you boys saying you've had nothing but good results with it. Notes worth mentioning.... Even the 5w30 X Helix Ultra has a higher flashpoint than the GFS & HPR5.

My condolences man, jesus that's rough. But what a way to honour your father. She's a legend ! I lost mine back in 2016, so i feel you man. I'm sure the end result of the garden will be simply astounding !

Exactly ! That's why if i wana go cruising i'll take the Avalon, it's a slower pace in which you take time in, sunroof open, music playing, etc. I mean, it's not underpowered in anymeans, it gets me out of trouble willingly. Not M3 fast, but still faster than some cars on the road, so it'll keep up with traffic. I'm looking forward to really putting it through it's paces. Since the new shocks, tyres, etc. Only thing i'll do when they get knocky is full bushes swap over to superpro. Combined with a slightly better sway bar & stronger sway bar links. As it is, it wants to hug the turn & just go hahaha. Where as if i want to be spirited. I'll take my G6E or mothers Calais which is firmer again lol. I'm insured to drive all 3 haha !

Oil filter: Mann-Hummel: HU 926/4X (or mahle equiv) Air: Mann-Hummel: C25 114 (or mahle equiv) Cabin: Mann-Hummel: CU 2835 (they seem to fit better than Ryco & Wesfil when it comes to german cars) AGM are simply beefier stop/start approved batteries which have higher cca, reserve current (rc), etc. I'd use Century/Yuasa or Varta, i've got a supercharge in my G6E at the moment. No issues what so ever. Battery Options: TechChg - Our brand (made by federal batteries): DIN65LH-TS (680cca) Varta - E44 (780cca) Supercharge: MF66 (720cca) Just to rub it in.... Oxy sensor for cyl 1 - 3: EGO-199 (bosch) Cyl 4 - 6: EGO-199 (bosch) PAT Premium is literally branded products in different boxes. Coolant fan switch: CFS-076 (black connector) CFS-035 (white connector) Alternator belt: 6PK1510 or 6PK1560 A/C: 5PK1120 Thermostat: TT405-174P Thermostat Housing Seal: TTG33 Waterpump: (GMB) WP9810 Very high quality pumps too. Front Pads: DB1131-Euro+ Front Rotors: DBA 984E or 984S (Slotted) Rear Pads: DB1132-Euro+ Rear Rotors: Pagid: 50266PRO (Left) Pagid: 50267PRO (Right) Wear Sensor Front: BWS1052 or Pagid P8081 Wear Sensor Rear: BWS1005 or Pagid P8013 Coils: IGC-053 (bosch) Plugs: NGK PKR7A, wouldn't use bosch plugs nowerdays haha !. Future reference.