TommyM

On 12/2/2020 at 3:11 PM, John Moore said:

Would a Camry towbar fit onto a 2002 Avalon?

I don't think they're an identical match considering they're different platforms 😁

19 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

You can definitely see some of the styling cues from this Avalon and the latest gen Camry. I don't think our market is receptive enough to welcome another "sedan" car which is why they killed of the Avalon and now the Aurion and condensed it into one offering, The Camry with the V6 option. It will be very sad if they ditch the V6 in favour of a turbo 4. I really don't want a turbo car. I much prefer naturally aspirated V6 goodness and reliability. 

I hope Toyota don't screw us this way. 

I agree, nothing like a Toyota V6, especially that engine note.

Bit like the Jaguar V12, electronics aside

Under-stressed, silky smooth & linear power delivery. Along with an iconic true V12 sound. 

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

We can only hope that sales of the new Camry V6 are sufficient to warrant continued availability.

I am more thinking that the Camry range could eventually be consolidated to just the Camry Hybrid model. Perhaps then, there would be consideration for the Avalon Hybrid model.

Toyota is developing a new V6 turbo engine to replace the V8 so I am dreaming that that engine will become available in a sedan. 

 

https://www.autotrader.com/car-reviews/2020-toyota-camry-vs-2020-toyota-avalon-whats-the-difference

In my opinion i'm not really fond of the new Camry, the last Camry/Aurion's in my opinion were superior, the 8sp auto now used isn't as "responsive", in all honesty considering it's now the same DI/MPI 3.5L 2GR V6 that's in the ES350, i just feel the Camry version doesn't have all it's power ?, meanwhile the old Aurion has ALL it's power without feeling like it's intentionally being "restricted" for obvious reasons. The older 6sp auto was brilliant by comparison. However the Avalon wouldn't be a bad upgrade, it's not a bad all round package !

8 hours ago, Squalled said:

Since owning my 2005 Corolla Sportivo, I've done 95% of my oil changes and the rest have been done by my local mechanic if my car has gone in for another fix of sort and I usually provide my own oil of my choice which they thankfully don't mind.

I've owned my car over 5 years and have clocked over 100000kms since I've owned it and have used 3 main oils in my car.

- Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40
- Penrite Full Synthetic 10W-40
- Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30

For the first 2 years or so I mostly used the Penrite variants would use the 10 Tenths if I could get my hands on it if not, I'd use the other Penrite Full Synthetic. Between those 2 oils I didn't notice any significant difference in oil consumption, discolouration etc. At the time the most common issue was the fact I had quite a few old seals which have since been replaced.

One of the more common things with 2ZZ-GE's which I have personally found is that when you run 10W-40 or a higher viscosity oil, it tends to make the engine quite "tappety"  which is especially noticed when idling. I heard this for some time and assumed it is quite normal which it is but a few friends had recommended trying Nulon 5W-30 Full Synthetic as they had rated it quite highly and noted minimal burning and discolouration.

I bit the bullet and went ahead with Nulon 5W-30. The first thing I did notice was the "tappety" noise wasn't louder, more or less the same or a slightly lower in volume. After doing a few thousand kms (I usually do oil changes between 5000-7500) I went to change the oil and it looked no worse than using any of the Penrite 10W-40 variants and I found I usually have the same amount of oil coming out as well which is a good sign that I'm not burning this oil. My servicing is complements with genuine Toyota oil filets and I do have a few sets of sump plug gaskets I change every 2nd oil change or so to keep it freshly sealed.

I do rate Penrite pretty well but I'm also super impressed with Nulon and have 0 issues with both since using them. For 2ZZ-GE's I usually recommend Nulon 5W-30 Full Synthetic unless the owner has mentioned it burns a bit of oil which in that case I'd usually recommend trying a 10W-30 or 10W-40 and seeing how that goes. Unlike Honda's various VTEC engines from the 90s and early 2000s, the 2ZZ-GE is generally not known to burn a large amount of oil between changes so if this becomes the case it's usually something more sinister causing the oil consumption (I could be wrong but this is what I've found over the years).

Well i've mainly done highway/freeway k's on my Avalon, basically half way through my 7.5k - 8k interval, engine internals aren't dirty due to it having frequent oil & filter changes so running higher base stock oils i'm alot more comfortable running 8k max. 😁

I only use OEM filters because that's what i choose to use, aftermarket air filters might be different in terms of fitment, not as many pleats, etc.

I think the main problem child was when Toyota introduced the 2.4L in the Camry which was notorious for excessive oil consumption. Bulletin/recall was issued too. Yeah every Toyota is different, running 0w40 in mine, whisper quiet. Only thing i hear is belts turning & injectors pulsing.

12 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I didn't know Toyota oil is made by Mobil 1. I wonder if that's the same for all countries and not just in the U.S.

 

 

Neither did i actually, maybe it's the US, who knows.... i know the two dealerships my car was at still run Mobil oils, so they can't be to bad. As my mechanic says "if it's happy on X brand of oil, don't change it. I was gonna switch to Penrite possibly but meh, it's had Mobil all it's life. 240k later, still mechanically strong & pulls hard. 

On 11/16/2020 at 3:54 PM, campbeam said:

I was certainly thinking about your coating of the leather steering wheel when my hands started to get a bit sweaty. Driving most of the day in Summer would certainly be putting your ceramic coating product to the test. I was fortunate to get some cool driving conditions 21-24C. It was much warmer on the return trip and I was using the A/C.

Toyota A/C is basically overpowered anyway so it could be 34°C for all we care & you'd still be freezing your knackers off 😂😂

And besides, if my car was running warm on a 40°+ day, i can turn the car off & unplug the fan switch, runs both fans on high speed. Similar to what FG falcons do on a stinking hot day, best thing about old Toyota's is they're easy to over-ride

5 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

BITOG has often commented on how good Mobile1 is especially in the USA where they supposedly also make Toyota's own TGMO 0W20 for 86 & BRZ which is extremely well regarded.

Only problem with group 4 & 5 oils is their price otherwise they're the best all day long.

Yeah Group 4 & 5's are pricey, but it's still cheap insurance over a new engine. The 5w30 is alot cheaper than the 0w40 that's for sure. Mobil & Penrite for me is all i'd stick with. But i swear by Penrite synthetic ATF which is what i run over the Toyota stuff which is good but i prefer the extra heat protection of synthetic ATF

Higher temp range, better additives, etc - since changing my auto to it, shifts brilliantly, definitely feels more eager to kickdown basically instantly if i need to. 100% smoother too, no shudder.

I've seen much good results with Mobil 1 0w40 hence why i use it. Reason why i don't use the Penrite 0w40 is it isn't friction modified 😁

Otherwise i would. 

Either way Mobil, Penrite & some Nulon's you can't go wrong with.

4 minutes ago, campbeam said:

I am going to claim innocence and give KAA any credit. I do have some leather care products previously bought on special at Super Cheap Auto but have yet to apply them.

Recently fitted a leather steering wheel cover and gave it an application of AeroSpace 303 Protectorant as a trial. Hands got a bit sweaty on the last road trip so will be keen to actually start using my existing leather care products. 34C in Brisbane last Saturday so another reason to treat the steering wheel cover.

Yeah that 303 protectant i might invest in when i run out of my current scotch guard infused batch lol. Can't hurt to try 😄

I got suprisingly colour matched leather steering wheel cover for my Avalon to preserve my wood sections on my wheel (no pun intended) lol.

Matches the grey perfectly, i like looking at the old school wood wheel but i choose to preserve it 🙃

44 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I should've mentioned that ceramic leather treatment is really good for new leather or leather that is in excellent condition. If you have old leather that is obviously dried out and hardened, I would definitely use the cream based products to help restore the moisture. Leathers that are too far gone will benefit more from the cream based products.

Ceramic protection is more like the prevention rather than the cure. Take good care of it from the get go and it will stay excellent for decades. Future generations will thank you for it.

I'll have to look into it, my leather is still soft suprisingly. Only part that's dry'ish is the most sun exposed parcel shelf section but it's not cracked. Rest is super soft

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

That's very kind of you mate, and would be appreciated. I have to try and find someone local who does good work.

Yeah, great advice too. Metalised film has been around your decades and if you use quality film as you said, it should last a very long time. Can't go wrong with 3M film. Beware of cheap imitations.

I really like the combination you have, just wondering if it's legal to have that dark tint in the back. I'd hate for  our insurer to get one over us on a technicality. 

In Victoria the legal limit is 20% rear & 35% front. But due to all automotive glass being different shades, dyes, etc.

They have a 5% leeway grace period. So absolute minimum is 15% for the rear & 30% for the front.

But the visor strip there is no legal limit on tint, only that it can only cover 10% (basically that whole blue strip on your windscreen), but carbon film on the rear windshield/screen is reccomend if your antenna is there to prevent interference from metalised film. Carbon is basically metalised without the metal content. 

So I've already checked my glass, my rear window is right on the legal minimum limit of 15%

My front windows are 30% due to my glass having alot of dye in it. Solar glass (but it's a 35% film)

Rear are 19% which is above the 15% limit.

Rear quarter windows are 17% (again different dye)

Reason why she suggested an 18% on the rear window is because the dye is different percentages. But it contours perfectly if you want symmetry like i have OCD with 😂

Blends in with that privacy glass effect only it actually has thermal protection not just a dye & no film lol.

So if it was my friend doing it she'd advise on

35% front

20% rear/quarter windows

18% rear window/screen 

Optional was 19% reflective film on the sunroof which now you can't see through lol. 5% visor strip

I trust her 100%, she's done tinting for 20 years basically.

10 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Doesn't it get 'linty' ?

I purchased a whole bunch of tyre dressing applicators a while back and when it starts to get a bit soily I throw it out and use a fresh one. These are good as they follow the contour of the tyre nicely. You can find them relatively cheap on Ebay.

 

If you use a good 3ply paper towel (i use aldi's one, brilliant stuff), then fold about 4 sheets together..... nope, i never get lint if i'm honest 🙂

Might try them applicators possibly !

See how they work

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Looks like a Limo now. Nice 

I'm going to have to look into getting my Aurion done as some stage. Wife has been nagging me about it for years 😜

Bahahahahahaha i was actually expecting it to be lighter with a grey interior and all, but nope it's way darker haha !

Well i think your wife likes privacy just like me, you can look at the idiots that sit on your *****, come up beside you, etc.... without them seeing you & simply say to yourself for example "oh look, another di**head with no indicator", "Here we go another moron being a tool", etc. All with added privacy haha !

Shame you're not in Victoria i'd be able to speak to my mate about getting you a price 🙂

Piece of advice though, don't bother with ceramic films until the price of it significantly drops, you're paying top dollar for literally 3% better overall reduction in UV rays, etc. For the massive price jump over metalised film, it's not worth it. Also you have more tints available (35, 30, 20, 18, etc)

Also ceramic appears lighter which is what you don't want.

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I did use this product some time back and found it to be too greasy and messy. It slings a bit too. Plus side is that it does tend to last but it's too messy for me unfortunately.

The best way to use this product is you have to get the tyre as clean as possible, I mean get all that 'brown' gunk off because as you apply the stuff with the applicator, the applicator will eventually saturate itself with both product and contamination and as you start to push harder on the applicator to get the stuff on, you will see the brown/black greasy ooze drip off. You MUST use disposable gloves when handling this. Your hand will get dirty too.

I think a more fluid product is better for ease of application. Longevity isn't a problem because in my mind, the longer a product lasts, the more dirt it will attract and will require more deep cleaning and then re application anyway. This is why I'm pretty happy with a humble product like SCA tyre shine. Does the job very well for me.

Hence why there's a correct way, at first i applied alot more than i needed, now i literally use a 5c amount & rub it into the tyre until it basically settles, hardly get fling off from it. It is messy but it lasts weeks so it's a minor trade off haha !

I use paper towel folded & folded, then simply throw it away. X amount of pieces per wheel. Works a trick.

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

There's really not much to say about leather treatment. The main thing is to clean the surface thoroughly before any treatment products are applied.

Everybody has their own product preferences and procedures that suits them, but the main thing is to get the leather nice and clean first.

If you don't want to buy any fancy leather cleaners and are on a budget, you can always use APC (all purpose cleaner), diluted to the correct dilution of course, and simply spray it on, scrub with a leather cleaning brush, wipe off, inspect, re scrub a second time if necessary, then after it's wiped clean and is dry, apply your favourite product.

The creamy based treatments really only nourish the leather to the point of keeping the leather soft and supple. If you want to go that extra mile, I'd recommend any ceramic based leather product as it not only protects from chemical contamination, but more importantly from U.V. rays too.

There are many excellent ceramic leather treatments available so I couldn't list them all. But from the one I have been using so far and am very happy with is the Gyeon Q2 Leather Shield. I have even gone as far as putting it on interior plastics too. Excellent product.

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/q2-leather-shield-50-ml.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAwMP9BRCzARIsAPWTJ_HurYdRqDaScO0nySwh1YMsx10ynlFnW8zG7WjFnLSMDfkSYJN3wp4aAvX6EALw_wcB

Gyeon Q2, seems like an interesting product.... this is why tint film helps significantly 😂😂 (or a good quality glass initially), i generally stick with natural products when it comes to leather, even though it's treated, etc.

I ask myself, would i put ceramic on my own face ?, nope hahaha. Either way i thought i'd start a thread because i didn't see one related to leather maintenance. 🙂

Naturally i'm curious about how people do theirs, etc - just being open minded 

These are just some examples which i shared in my Avalon thread, showing that minor shine oakwood conditioner leaves behind. Even after having my windows done by a good friend of mine, equally a car girl too, she was shocked with how well my leather is in person. How soft it still is, no tears, rips, etc

Minimal wrinkles (or "fold over" as i call it). 

I'm actually curious too see how you/some of you actually maintain your leather interior ?.

Myself owning an Avalon, technically different leather used, and alot more genuine stuff, just what Toyota did years ago, but even still.... maintenance is the same !

Personally because i know people with horses, etc. I generally clean the leather by hand with a PH neutral glycerine soap (cake of soap) or saddle soap.

Usually go with pears personally. But when it comes to the lengthy two step conditioning phase. I swear by oakwood leather conditioner, it's a truely brilliant product, alot of natural based ingredients too. I mean after all, my 04' Avalon has a tick over 240k on it yet my seats still look & feel incredibly soft/pliable thanks to Oakwood conditioner. The process is time consuming but if you use a proper soap to clean, then conditioner afterwards, leather will only need conditioning every 4 - 5 months roughly. Please by all means share how you people do it 🙃😄

New ideas, products, etc - all welcome

Note: i'm well aware i go above & beyond maintaining my leather. But that's me. 

Hope everyone's well !

Coming from personal experience myself & from knowledge within the automotive sector. I can't recommend Mobil 1 0w40 enough, but that's what i run my car on, the additives in Mobil 1 0w40 especially the base oils is what i look for the most. But personally if you want a great all round with proven use.

Penrite's HPR range is by far the top pick, even though base oils are more a group III, now they have a Premium non friction modified 0w40 from Penrite which is group IV & V base oils. Same with Nulon's 0w40 being a group IV & V base oils. Always consult your owners manual for a general idea of specs you can use.

E.g 5w30, 15w40, 20w50, 10w30

With that information you can tailor it to 2020 levels if it's an older vehicle (e.g 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, etc).

But personally after being 3600km into my service interval running Mobil 1 0w40, hasn't burnt a drop, instant oil pressure on cold start too. Now yes i'm aware it can be pricey, some is marketing but also i've seen many many cars running Mobil 1 with well over 500k with spotless insides, super smooth operation, etc.

Top picks from me & multiple other people i know.

1. Mobil 1 

2. Penrite 

Though if it's Royal Purple, etc - them oil brands just embarrass themselves, they're not worth the price tag. 

Thought i'd put my two cents in & give a recommendation. Now i personally have tried numerous tyre shines over the years, but since i changed to Meguiars Endurance Tyre Gel yonks ago, i haven't looked back, it lasts weeks, protects against tyre browning, etc. Now there's a correct way & incorrect way to apply it, but personally i'm happy with just how long the gloss shine lasts (which is what i personally prefer), will i change ?, probably not.

Strongly recommended considering how little you use too. 

49 minutes ago, ZZT86 said:

Looks magnificent, car looks like new, what a treasure 👍

Only thing i really need to do is address the chrome moldings, other than that.... not much else. Just had new OEM plugs & leads (Denso & Yazaki) fitted the other day (seeing as i can see my bloody mechanic now). Regarding the shine ?, the paints held up remarkably well, shines beautifully when clean. Though these pics it was actually kinda dirty 😂😂

I haven't done much to it besides keep it clean, do plan on polishing it, etc. 

Earlier on in the thread someone requested pics, so now i've delivered 😉

So after COVID-19 restrictions finally f**ked off i was able to get my windows done.

Before & after provided below

Because she's a friend of mine, i won't disclose how much it cost me, needless to say she was aussie so i know the work was top notch using very high quality US made film (3M) i believe.

So as follows....

35% (front metalised film)

20% (rear metalised film including quarter windows)

18% (rear window carbon based film) - because the navigation & radio get their signal from the antenna in the rear glass, there isn't a physical antenna. Which is good, gives it a clean look.

19% (sunroof reflective metalised film)

5% (visor strip carbon based film)

Because they have a fair amount of colour in the glass, the windows are actually darker than the film, but still above the legal limit/cutoff.

19 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I sold it all because I saw a car on Carsales & thought I had to have it 😐 My Azura was in top condition with only 133K kms as it was my late godfathers car, really annoyed I sold it but hey my Aurion is 10 times the car the Azura was. Thing is it was sentimental value also, I really enjoyed driving an older car in good order, I just couldn't afford to keep 3 cars & had I no space in the garage for it. At least the young bloke I sold it to was so impressed, he loves it.

The Aurion might be newer, but older Toyota's with the simple, old school tech, old school plastics will never age, they last a lifetime because back then Toyota were still very much about the best materials around. Which is unfortunate because i believe the XV40 Aurion/Camry's had alot of issues, warping dashboards being one big one lol. Obviously the XV50's were superior but you get my point 😄

Trying to find an Azura is near impossible nowerdays.

Old school Toyota's, there's just something about that old school Japanese styling, solidity, etc

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Love your attention to detail. Upgrading the factory speakers is always a good thing as long as you can find the right combination of fitment and sound quality. I would hate having to drill holes to make them fit. Much prefer drop in replacements if possible.

Are the Focal speakers a drop in ?

Well certain things i have massive OCD with. Keeping it all the same range/brand pays off, i know switching to a 4ohm sub will be slightly quieter but compared to the stock one i beg to differ. Also 4ohm speakers lined together will be a 2ohm load which the factory amp is rated for, one thing i appreciate about Toyota is they put massive heatsinks on their amps. Wired in parallel 4ohm + 4ohm loads to a 2ohm total load off memory. 

Well look, the factory speakers are 40w rms, 10w for tweeters & 35 for the sub which is actually suprisingly decent for stock, approx 215watts total, but upgrading with 60w rms it's a nice increase combined with the listed below. In addition i'll be fitting some sound deadening material in strategically placed areas.

Sub alone is 250w rms

Whenever i calculate theoretical max output i always calculate the rms power output not the max output.

Speakers 60w rms ×4 = 230w rms

Tweeters 15w rms × 2 = 30w rms

Subwoofer 250w rms 

Combined theoretical nominal power: 510 watts

It's the perfect amount for audiophiles who want quality for music like Mario Lanza, Il Divo, etc

Or some upbeat stuff depending on ones mood

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Haha yeah, I know that feeling. Instant justification right there.

I don't think the markings will wash away all that easy. Not sure what kind of substance the markers use but I assume it's quite durable. Just give the engine bay a spritz of mild APC and pressure wash carefully. Should be fine. 

I agree 100%, nothing beats the feeling of knowing the part is correct, aftermarket bottles are incorrect mounts. Them flexi tabs like the Camry's of that era which always break 😂

I have no idea either, whatever it is, it's lasted a very long time lol, might be like a plastic type or vinyl type marker. Haven't seen a car of that era with factory markings in a long time, if i'm honest.

I know how to clean things, hell i use a super soft paint brush to clean my badges lol.

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I like to spray the engine bay with an aqua wax whilst wet as a drying aid, mainly to the painted surfaces, engine bay, under the bonnet, rad support and whatever hard plastic, then whilst blow drying all the nooks and crannies, mop up the trickles with my drying towel. After it's all dry I spray 303 Aerospace protectant on all the soft hoses, serpentine belt, and plastics to nourish and protect them. The aerospace will last for many months. I like to re coat every 6 months. 

I might have to look into buying some of that Aerospace 303 spray, where'd you get it from ?

I might recoat every 6 months afterwards 😁

This is something i do personally, but my throttle cable/linkage & heater tap valve i coated in white lithium grease spray for smoother movement, but on the heater tap, basically extending the life of small moving parts, even though it's a 10min job unlike Commodore's. 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Nice to have the original parts always, wherever possible. It's a no brainer really if it's not that much more than aftermarket. Certainly does pay to research and shop around.

Exactly & truth ?, you'll get more of a warranty & better quality part going OEM than aftermarket. Misc things like accessory drive belts, Dayco or Gates, but personally i usually go Dayco. 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Nothing new in Sydney either. Same old, same old. Work, home, work , home. I don't go out all that much except to Bunnings or the shops if I need something and the occasional SCA trip when they have decent specials on.

Yeah wherever i can get my Mobil 1 cheaper i'll usually go, but 9 times outta 10 i get it on my trade account with Burson. You can go to bunnings, i can't.... shush you 😂😂😂

But i'm glad you lot are well given everything going on, i'm actually suprised this thread has had so many views tbh. God the Toyota community are definitely less toxic.

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Focal drivers = audio porn 😉 very very nice stuff.

Well i wanted to keep it relatively close to factory spec because i'm running the factory navigation & amp which is pretty decent, just need the 2019 map update.

In terms of rms, etc

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

The overflow bottle gets a bit like that, I can remember on my old MCV20R Azura she had the same deal, noticed all the cars in the wreckers were same except 1 😉

What did you pay for those parts if you don't mind me asking ?

The 1MZ is a rippa engine, really wanted to keep my old Azura, wish I could have kept it.

Focal drivers = audio porn 😉 very very nice stuff.

ps: Vic lockdown is like being in prison, hoping this goes away within a week or so.

It's probably more chemical exposure than heat that degrades plastics like expansion bottles, i much prefer it over commodore setups that you can't even clean out properly 🤣

What happened to your Azura ?