DanielFi

Hello again, from my experience of changing over my stock hollower rear sway bar to a sportivo model ( meant to be thicker heavier, which it is ), All I undid underneath was the exhaust rubbers from the rear, the exhaust flexes down and access to the sway bar is there, Also I changed out the stock rubber sway bar bushes for nolethane. I did jack up the car with stands at the back, though was mostly working on the ground. Hopefully no damage to the exhaust. It was a while ago and no noises, better cornering etc etc. Please note this was only a stock model upgrade NOT 19mm.

Hey Guys and Girls, sorry to hijack and older post, but I like to thank DJScope for this useful info in this thread. I have a 2010 touring Aurion, the sound from bluetooth calls is very low on my end hearing the caller, almost no sound. Even with the phone and head unit on highest volumes. The caller has no problem hearing me. Every thing else works well as prior to my android mis upgrade stereo that was in the car for a while until my son used the car and came back with a blank screen. So I reinstalled the original unit. Soo did I miss something, in the first pic of the screen and diagnostics window the 'hands free volume settings' does not respond on my unit, press 5 or 6 nothing, totally unresponsive. I thought this to be a solution to my problem, but no just another problem. The second pic is of my version, etc. which as with DJScope cannot get a file to update unless I win lotto and can then go to a stealership. Last pic is of an error 01 , in diagnostics, does this mean I have a problem? if so what now. Getting very frustrated with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi peoples, I had a strange similar phenomenon in my 2010 touring after changing the ATF fluid for some Penrite that was suitable for the vehicle. Its a long shot, though when stopped in drive, mostly at lights, waiting to go. I would slip into neutral ( I know you should not do this unless you know its going to be a while waiting), but the vibration stopped. The solution was not calculating the correct ATF refill plus some? When I drained the fluid from the pan I was lucky to get three liters, so I put in three liters, and this problem occurred. I did some research on non toyota and toyota with this problem and found I had to top up the ATF fluid to about 500-1L and the vibration lessened considerably at stop. After changing the fluid. The amount you get out does not equal the amount you should put in - apparently. The vibration through the steering wheel may also be the steering uni joint at the firewall needs liquid regrease to stop this. Common on Camrys in a similar year. Some times mine that I have not done this to feels clicky or vibrates funny from the wheel when I turn, or when from full lock. At the idle play zone in the wheel also. Hard to explain really.

Well done Tony, some good precise information

Hi Steve and other people, when toyota did each recall on my 2010 touring, they put a silver sticker with numbers/letters on it, so I have two stickers on the inside door jam of the driver. First one was for the window master switch, that if had been altered could start a vehicle fire, and the oil coolant line from rubber to metal. Steve the hose for your 2009 is when the bonnet is up on the drivers side of the cam covers, above and to the left of the engine. it goes from the cam cover down along out of sight along the firewall for as an oil feed to the vvti system, in yours it may be black plastic not silver alloy as in mine from factory. As toyota corrected the fault the year after your Aurion was produced. Its late atm so I will attempt a picture tomorrow am. Correct me if I am mistaken guys..

Looks fantastic, are the wires coming out the top vents the gps and dab antenna?? Did you get an dedicated microphone for phone calls? Something I have to do for mine now as call quality for the other person is shocking. Also did you take out the stock camera and replace with a 12 volt one if it came with the new stereo? I heard the old reverse camera was incompatible with aftermarket stereo's as uses 6 volt to trigger the signal. I am sure there is a fix - maybe. Well done mate.

YES

google play and maps will have to updated to work, for the gps that is also, mobile hotspot the better method if possible, it needs to connect to the internet. Radio I am unsure, did the unit come with a manual with instructions for using the units operating system? Can you scroll down from the top - swipe down, there is a warning from the unit a explanation marked triangle, it should tell you what the error is

Hi Rick, looks like a antenna for wifi or blue tooth, do not earth it to chassis as I presumed it may have to be, I was forgetful in my analysis, the parking brake or brake labelled wire should be grounded to chassis for more functionality, normally a pink wire. I would leave it alone, should be o.k.

I just noticed that the antenna for the radio is hooked up from the wiring, I did not do this and the plug went from the car to the unit directly, as you know your gps antenna needs to connect and be firm on the fitting. Good job Rick.

Well done Rick, your almost there, I was the same with a lot of sub out connectors also unattached, the blue bulb? I am not sure of, it is not obvious in the picture, I do remember that one was reverse ( yours may be back) which I put in another earth to chassis, attached to an crimp able fitting with a hole in it for a bolt to go though, this earth was then bolted back in with the stereo (10mm bolts) with this you then can watch movies as you are driving otherwise properly its connected to the foot brake and won't let you watch a lot of stuff because you are not stationary with the vehicle. I think that's what you mean by the blue bulb, but if its a bulb not a reverse wire to be put to negative or chassis then it may be a wireless or blue tooth module antenna.? Can you circle the blue bulb please Rick.

Hey Rick, the light blue effect is the surround of the unit cooling (heat sink), see the larger grooves in the upper edges, the unit is alot smaller than the screen, only protruding into the cars recess nearly half or less of what came out ( the old head unit ). This part of the new unit is the brain behind the screen and the connector for the wiring harness to go to the car, including on mine, usb connectors that go through to the glove box, gps antenna, which I hid under my dash mat, cable coming out above the air vent. And all the connectors for power steering wheel control etc going to the vehicles wiring. From what I see of your new unit it includes the facia around the screen, after unbolting the old unit from the frame it sits in the new unit slots in sideways firmly to align with the a/c controls . In this picture this has already been done, note the antenna from the vehicle has not been connected yet as it was shorter, and do not forget to plug back in the a/c control plug before stitching it all up again.

Honestly Rick, I reckon you could have a good go yourself, although with my unit the stock reversing camera was not compatible with my head unit, the supplier included a replacement one, if you want the stock one take it in to be professionally installed as the stock camera works at a lower voltage, around 6 volts not 12 volts required to trigger the reverse cam on the new unit. I seem to be contradicting myself again, its totally up to you what happens, just saying its not rocket science or brain surgery.

Hi Rick that unit looks nearly identical to mine, as in my post the unit arrived with three wiring harnesses, that is from the unit to my cars wiring, I chose the one that had most of the correct connections, steering wheel controls work from this wiring, just need programming from when the unit has powered up and inside a setting menu. You can do this yourself following online guides, beware of scratching the plastics and use a softer plastic knife or utensil to prise out certain fittings, 10mm socket and your there. Rick what spec is your unit Gb of ram and rom? I also used the stock car antenna straight to the new unit as all three wiring harnesses had an antenna going into the new unit, this I did not use. Also about two plugs never got hooked up from the car wiring to the stereo, one must have been the stock reverse camera the other is any ones guess. I did it all that with the positive unhooked from the battery. Personally I was not satisfied with the glitchy software on my chinese Rockchip device, along with after research the os was fake android 10 and actually android 9, so I paid a bloke on a forum for his full version for my unit (research required on the forum he is on) which for mods of software payment is not normal for myself as I have a modded software Samsung galaxy mobile phone done for my time only. Website if this is allowed for the mod on my unit is : https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/rom-px6-stm32-9-0-malaysk-rom-for-px6-mcu-stm32-rk3399-with-android-9.4111653/ These 'roms' are unit specific so I would not do this unless you know your units specs exactly, you can brick the unit, though in saying this its well worth the money and time for a workable software option. With a lot more features. I have no affiliation with the author of this software. There is a free lite version that is good but not as good as the full.

Thank you Luke for that info, I attempted this and then emailed the seller, he may provide a firmware upgrade as he has indicated. The wifi was connected for 40 minutes to my home wifi with the car in the driveway and it still did not update apps on google play. I had to disable the home wifi connection and tether my mobile internet to the head unit to get progress on the updating. Yes my unit is a octo core although it still takes it time booting up, and if you reverse the car before it boots the head unit resets. Very frustrating. Thanks for all the great comments / responses to my 'upgrade' Dan.

One problem is that the google play is not allowing me to log in as it throws an error, will try to fix tomorrow, if not will email the supplier for fix. The radio is clear and the bluetooth connected to my phone though have not made a call yet. It looks better but will see if it lasts. Dan..

The new unit was then physically mated to the climate control and then wired up, it was fairly easy apart from the reversing camera, pulling out plastic running the wire from rear to front. The new unit had three harnesses to choose from to use. One to ISO , and two others, one I used as it fitted most of the plugs to the wiring in the vehicle. the steering wheel controls work, after setting and so does the new reverse camera

I got the news this morning that my heat unit was arriving, so I stripped down the appropriate plastic and removed the stereo, then waited for 4 hours for the delivery to actually arrive, with the car apart. I bought prior to install the 'better' 4gb ram 64 gb rom android 10 head unit gps, bluetooth wifi mirroring etc. And I got a Aeropro cable for the reversing stock reversing camera. I was a bit annoyed this morning when the package was opened and the cable was in two not one pieces. Anyway it was never required or would even plug into the harness of my vehicle. Don't waste your money on a "APVTY04" factory camera to aftermarket video adapter. This is my stock setup as it was this morning. The model of stock stereo, and rear connector of in which only three plugs from the car plus antenna were connected.

Thanks to all for the responses, I told the wife today about the upgrade and she is not impressed for the wrong 'real' reasons. It may arrive this week or early next due to postage delays. Looking forward to the challenge of installing, and setting up. I hope I have all the cables, as the head unit is steering wheel learning ready, and I bought an Autopro video retention cable for the stock camera to still work, even though in the package a new reverse camera is included, and that the stock system uses a 6 volt trigger rather than 12 volt for the camera to be functional. I have looked into a small voltage step up device and varied resistive POT to adjust this step up device from 6-12 volts. I will rather keep the stock camera, than run from and tap into the wiring to the back of the car. I have not purchased this yet and hope that when the car is running and charging its enough to trigger the stock camera onto the units (video). Let the fun and games begin, ( when it arrives that is)

Thanks for the quick response 'campbeam', I have seen your signature on many many posts and this shows again that you and this forum are still very active. I have been changing the oil before the 15,000 klm mark well and truly, with penrite HPR5, and ryco filter cartridge, made the mistake of not oiling the lowest o ring for the oil filter and now can remove the housing with a 3/8th drive without the filter tool at the drainer plug, don't worry I fix it next time. My Aurion has the smart bar on the front making it quite the long cruiser she is, adds a least half a foot to the length of the vehicle. She's a bit hard to park in the smaller parking bays with the turning circle that she's got. I am already suffering buyers regret for the stereo, off ebay, an Android screen only model. I regret it simply as Chinese warranty does not exist today, and failure of these units is common, some time after install. I will likely keep the stock six stacker, Bluetooth, with front usb and reversing image unit for this reason. And avoid hacking at the stock wiring harness. So it could be reinstalled. The other option was to do it properly with a name brand unit, missed out on the Xmas sales. The new head unit is arriving possibly late this week, my wife has not been informed , and I pray I am home when it arrives..

Hello everyone in the forum, this is my first post and my first post in a while in any forum. My name is Daniel in Western Australia owning a 2010 Aurion as in title for about 2 and a half years now. I am very pleased with the purchase and find driving the Toyota very pleasant. As in on past vehicles I have performed a lot of service maintenance and minor upgrades myself, and are now on the Aurion. I firstly for the kick in acceleration put in a K&N air filter, as if the Aurion does not have enough already. After doing over 100,00klms in here a while now I changed all spark plugs to NGK Irridium, and bought a 4lt tub of transmission oil more recently and swapped out only the fluid and did not do a complete change or transmission filter with dropping its pan. Seems to be still good and changes smoothly. And of course the motor oil needs be maintained / changed. The main reason as to lurking on the forum and now joining was that I am about to change the stereo, and learning a lot from previous members whom have done this. I will endeavour to post this process with pictures in the appropriate section of the forum. Wish me luck. Dan.