Twixter

Ah yes. The famous Mazda 3. My favourite Toyota of all time. Sharing the exact same engine and chassis as the TRD model Aurion, it's speed and 3.5L V6 engine is highly sought after. </sarcasm> Maybe go to a Mazda group for Mazda help. Lol 🚸

Far out! I wish you lived in QLD so I could pay you to wash mine like that! haha. The comparisons are amazing. Great job! What did you use for your wheels? I'll definitely try the hot water for the windscreen next time! I always end up swearing and getting angry that the 'No Streaks' window cleaner I use leaves...streaks... So I'll definitely give that a shoot next time I clean her!

Heyo. Sorry, I'm not able to provide much input on this. But you're in Brissy now? Welcome! If you're looking for a more local Aurion community, you can join us at Brisbane Aurions: https://www.facebook.com/groups/brisbaneaurions We even have a cruise coming up on Sunday!

I'm sure it's the same process for the 40 series and 50 series. I'm not sure. I only have a 40 series ATX. However, the shift illumination bulb is super easy to get to and you don't need any tools to access it. The Presara console should be the same to pull apart. Shift the car into Neutral (hold the shift lock button and drag it down into neutral) Unscrew the shift knob (anti-clockwise). It has a long thread so you'll be doing it for a bit. haha Below your head unit, there's two plastic inserts either side of the console. (see below screenshot in green circle) That circled bit pulls straight backwards. It literally slides in/out, no screws. Pull both of those out Gently pull up the console (where the cupholders and shift selector is). Keep in mind you'll have 2x plugs connecting to it with a short travel distance. So remember to unplug those. One will be the front cigarette lighter, the other will be the shift selector light bulb. Once you take the console out and away from the car you'll easily be able to flip it over and see where the illumination bulb sits. Reassembly is the same in reverse. Notes from experience: - The more you take it off, the easier it gets, so I'm sure that if you do it frequently, it'll introduce the annoying console squeaks. If your cupholder doors aren't closing properly, take this opportunity to get that pen wedged out of there. Haha! - I don't know exactly what bulb replaces the selector light. I bought one from Jaycar (after looking up specs in this forum for the bulb) and it turns out the one I bought was too large somehow? It was too big and didn't fit into the slot properly and would fall out. Thankfully my old man had a few that fit perfectly. He couldn't tell me what model they were for future reference. - The plug is direction-dependent. Don't plug back in and put it all together straight away. Test to make sure it illuminates by just turning on your headlights while ignition is on. - If you're not sure about how much force to apply to take off the console at the end, watch this video for a bit of context on how much to apply. I was really worried about breaking mine at first (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBRPpvurBWg (Toyota Aurion center console light replacement) Best of luck!!!

Hey, No problem! I'm glad you got it resolved for yourself. That's terrific! Yeah they're terrific fun cars to drive! You mentioned you're on the GC, well I myself and on the SC lol. But we do have a FB group of our own for Sunshine Coast, Brisbane & Gold Coast areas: https://www.facebook.com/groups/brisbaneaurions/ We actually have an Aurion cruise coming up at the end of April this year! 🙂

Ahhhh yesss... I remember this. Haha! Mine was like this when I bought it from the dealer I got it from. (over the cupholder one) Was a bit awkward, but I used a bit of wire to poke up through it backwards and gently push. Turns out it was an old crusty pen was sitting in there and preventing it from opening fully. That whole console bit is fairly easy to take out without tools if you wanted to take it out and spend some time with it to get it out. I think there's a few YouTube videos on how to do it, and you don't need any screwdrivers or anything to take it out. I'd understand if you're hesitant after buying it though. I know I was. 😁 Great work buying the Aurion though! Welcome to the club and I hope you love the car as much as we all love ours!!! 🙂 Where abouts in Queensland are you located? Have you joined the Facebook group? "Toyota Aurion Owners Group"

Remember that American Camrys and Corollas are different to ours. Theirs are littered with hundreds of issues ours don't face. But did you try some basic things? Blowing compressed air down the (unplugged) jet to make sure it's not blocked up? Were you able to isolate where the issue could have stemmed from? You went to Toyota directly. Any dealership will charge an arm and a leg for anything. That price was ludicrously expensive though. Damn shame they quoted you that much! Any other mechanic would probably do it for 1/2 the price.

Are you able to post the video to YouTube or something? You uploaded to Imgur which converts it to a .gif 😂 I have an 06 ATX and it's done it since I bought the car back in 2019 and it still does it today. It's just everything cooling down, even in a short drive it'll still do it. Keep in mind that even within 10 minutes the engine can still get to 90°C. That metal will always plink and tink when it cools. Every car does it though, some louder than others. I went for a cruise with a couple of mates after a car meet and I was surprised to hear a Falcon XR6 have the 'plinks' louder than mine (we didn't send it hard, and only went around the block twice). My Holden Rodeo used to be crazy loud when cooling down (but it had no sound deadening and was all metal around the body, no plastic bumpers/shrouds) There are a few things that can change this too though. Ambient temperature, if you sent the car hard in that 10 minutes, If you're running the air con and it's dripping onto something metal in your car, it'll cool quicker and can change the standard cooling rate of the engine bay, modified exhaust/headers, even a different grill than stock can technically affect air flow for cooling, so it'll cool differently in different areas of the engine. Unless they're alarmingly loud, I'm sure it's nothing to worry about, but now I'm curious if it could be an issue. Maybe put a video up that's not a .gif haha. But yes, all cars clink and tink when cooling down. Note: I'm not a mechanic or an engineer by any means, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

I've been considering making some myself for quite some time. For the past 3 or so years I've had my Aurion, I've used the same floormats in it. They slide around and bend at the left foot rest (driver seat) and a few times have caused confusion as to why the boot wouldn't close (got stuck under the boot release lever and my idiot brain thought the boot lock mechanism was fk'd lol). But I agree, the OEM ones are so expensive, and plain-looking. Black or gray...I don't want all black or all gray. I want flexibility; customization. I don't just want rubber or plain carpet either. I want something fancy. I've considered making a set of carpets out of that 'car city' playmat from the late 90's haha. Not cheap but would be funny. My biggest issue with DIY'ing some, is that I don't have either the money to test different materials, a sewing machine or embroidery machine for the edging, and I don't have the measurements of the OEM floormats (for pins and proper fitting). If I get the mentioned concerns addressed one day, I might consider doing an Etsy store, selling custom Aurion (specifically) floormats and maybe dashmats. I don't know if the 40 series and 50 series have different mats though.

Yeah. It does get annoying. As someone from QLD who's never owned an air conditioned car before my Aurion, I find it uncomfortable to drive with the windows up. So the smell comes and goes pretty quickly for me. 😅 But yeah I asked an exhaust technician about it and his exact words were: "It's the sulfur used in the petrol that is being absorbed by the cats. You'll get a more concentrated smell if the cats are faulty or if there's a leak after the exhaust manifold and before the mufflers. Since it's such a strong scent, you can generally smell it easily which is why it's so noticeable too. It's not an issue though, assuming your cats aren't bad, but that's not to say it's a sign of faulty cats, just a symptom of them. But it's too hard to nail down what it is specifically since any individual car like yours can have a gasket leak or a tear in the exhaust flexi hose or whatever. I wouldn't be too concerned with the smell, Aurions and Camrys aren't the only cars that get it anyway." Furthering what he said, there is a cat on each side of the exhaust manifold and they have o2 sensors, before going into the Y pipe to another cat (with a cat but no o2 sensor). Generally this throws the P0420 code on Toyotas when these o2 sensors detect an issue (I get it on my own Aurion but clear the codes since it's not a huge issue). Also, I've smelled other cars that take off from a red light and leave the same smell behind. Getz, Swifts, Corollas, Falcons, Commodores, Accords, and even a Mini.

Hey Steve! Few question to try out or check first. Assuming your car hasn't got any leaks inside (and the problem is from the aircon circulation itself) and you've bought a new cabin filter and put it in, Your profile says you live in QLD, something that can help any mold buildup in the ducting, is to park the car in direct sunlight (easy now it's summer) and have the windows down, doors open and leave it like that for a few hours. Every now and then, start the car and turn the interior fan on for about 15 minutes, then turn it off and let it sit again. Keep this going for about 5 hours. (annoying I know) This can cause the hot air to circulate through the ducting and kill the mold buildup. I had to do this when I first bought my Aurion in 2019. The smell of the melted dashboard and a moldy smell from the aircon...it was gross to drive. QLD-dry out and a dashmat fixed it for me though. Haha Lastly an idea would be to just bomb the car with 4 air fresheners overnight (with something neutral like 'new car scent'). Not to clear the smell for the morning, but to stain the smell in the car so when the aircon circulates (if you use recirculate) it's getting a scented smell. Another note: do you notice the smell at a certain time while driving? When merging onto a HWY or taking off with pace? If so, chances are it's not the air con at all. It's probably just the sulfur smell from the cats that we all get. 😁

True, I was wanting to make a verticle support beam (but I'm sure they didn't build the Aurion like that for a reason) so I could make it a camper as well. Mattress going from the boot to rear seats (Taking rear backrests off). But I think the 40 series (pre-FL) wouldn't really handle that too well. A 50 series would but.

Are you able to post a few more pictures of the boot/rear firewall bracing? Preferably a few angles. Just wanna see how much of that brace is structural and if it could be built differently. (for full boot access instead of a ski-port)

QR and Lakeside (both racetracks near Brisbane) would allow this Aurion with the weight reduction. Since the windows must be wound up, you don't need the doorskins either. At most, they require a muffler (or under 90db sound). A straight pipe Aurion won't hit that unless on the limiter. So yeah, this'd be allowed on a track*, but not roadworthy (without a modplate). *(tracks where I live)

When are you coming to QLD to clean my car? hehe. Looks like you've done a tremendous job with Seb!

Hey Bill (AAA)!!! Welcome to the forum! So having read that, I think you've done a great job troubleshooting this problem, and I have to say that you've done a lot more than I ever have. I've had the P0420 error for abouuuuut...13 months now. Don't panic. If it's just a cat bank issue, then it's just one of the two cats in the headers. Simple as that. You could replace the O2 sensors to see if that fixes it, but from what I've read about, from what I've spoken to other Aurion owners (in person) about and even consulting an exhaust technician who had a proper look at it...the consensus seems to be to replace the 'faulty' cat. The exhaust technician I spoke with quoted me a few prices (he is a small independent mechanic so his prices are quite cheap considering) and they were all over $400 to replace the cat. Not including labour. Instead, since the issue won't cause any damage to the car (assuming it is just the P0420 error) then get yourself an OBD2 reader that can clear codes and just clear the codes. Mind you, you might have to do this frequently, depending on how long the P0420 error has been showing up. Mine went from once every month to now once every few days. But I have an OBD2 gauge that can easily read (and clear) at a stop sign/set of lights (or pulled over 😉 ). But replacing every hose is a bit excessive. It's a 2008 car in 2021 (13 years)...after 10 years things fade away. Mine is a 2006 ATX and doesn't miss a beat. P0420 hasn't caused any issues for me whatsoever. Clear the code and you're good to go. Sidenote about P0420 (From experience): When turning the car on, the check engine light (orange) will show, but as you start moving the VSC and TC lights show up. These will always be on until you turn the car off at this point, even if you clear the engine code while they're on. Nothing alarming, just remember if you clear the codes while the VSC and TC lights are on, restart the car and you're good to go. Hope this was somewhat insightful. Regards, Matt.

This has been asked on the FB page a few times. Pre-facelift and Post-facelift are not compatible with eachother. Check to see if they're the same before buying one. 🙂

How'd you get on Jess?

HAH! I know the pain. Sorry I'm not here to answer the question. Just feel your pain. I haven't taken mine off but I've broken a USB cable with it and a charger (separately) hahaha.

Answering the 02 sensor bit: Is the error code P0420? If so, you can generally ignore it if you have the tool yourself to reset it. A few of us have it constantly, but it's often easier just to clear the codes whenever it comes up than it is to find a fix. I have a Lufi OBD2 gauge and it can clear the error code on the fly so I often don't even think about the actual issue anymore. But you can defs smell it when accelerating hard (like onto a hwy) I also spoke to an exhaust technician who said the error can be ignored. The car won't be performing at its peak with that code (if the cats are actually faulty or clogged) but it's safe to ignore it. That is only for the code: P0420 though.

You could go a step further and just delete the 3rd cat? Depending on how bogan you are though that is. I removed it and I felt some difference in the car, and heard the most minute difference, but only because I (at the time) had original mufflers still on it. She doesn't gurgle much even without the 3rd cat...unless I hold some high revs and drop it or drop down a gear pretty roughly. Would love to put some o2 spacers in the front cat areas and delete them altogether (on a track car) just to hear the difference. haha

Heyo, I have essentially done a muffler delete on my Aurion. The mufflers are still physically attached to the vehicle (so it looks legitimate), however, before the rear Y-pipe in the exhaust, my exhaust dumps facing down onto the road. It gives it the familiar V6 groans that Commodores have. It doesn't sound amazing, but I'm happy for it to be louder. That also being said, I have left the resonator pipe (the more larger diameter pipe) in, for drone purposes. I did however do a 3rd cat delete, and I did hear the faintest noise difference before the muffler delete. The exhaust technician that was working with me on the muffler delete did say that by removing that resonator the car will drone badly, and it won't be much 'louder' anyway. Just that the drone would be worse. My car does drone as is. Anyone with a muffler deleted Aurio can attest to that. It's not as bad a commodore or 4cyl muffler delete drone however. I mostly hear the drone when on the Bruce HWY going up hills at 110km/h. While the little amount of drone there is doesn't bother me, I don't think I would be looking to delete that resonator-ish pipe. I don't know if it's much of a resonator anyway. I had two exhaust technicians (from different places) say there's no traditional resonator on Aurions. Just a larger diameter pipe around the existing one to minimise drone and exhaust noises in the cab. Whether or not they were wrong I'm not sure. I only speak as someone who's got a muffler delete (dumping the exhaust at the rear Y pipe, not straight piped to the tail of the car) and a 3rd cat delete. The louder and more 'bogan'* (*depending on your standards) the car is, the more attention you get from the police. I always make sure to (tiptronic) kick up a gear and do low revs past police to avoid any attention. Depends on your driving and where you live I suppose. Also I just read @campbeam's^ post I wholeheartedly agree. This is another reason I wanted to keep the mufflers and not get them gauged out. So if I ever do get police attention I can just cut the corner pipe weld and weld my y-pipe back onto the main exhaust pipe.

I have the same in my car. 1 in front of the gear stick and 1 behind it (part of the centre console)...but my front one doesn't work. If you're going to pull it out, can you attach some pictures on the process? I don't want to brake my dash anymore than Autobarn already has (from installing an aftermarket head unit). 🙂

Heyo. Just jumped in for the point about the smell of fuel or the rotten-egg like smell when you accelerate hard. Could be a faulty CAT converter. My car has done it since I owned it 2years ago. Wind the windows down whenever you do something like pushing the car hard, then wind them back up after about a minute. It'll clear the smell out. I think I have a hole in my boot somewhere where the exhaust is coming up into the cabin, but I'm not sure. I've spoken to a few other Aurion owners who get the same thing. (usually when merging onto a HWY and you **** belt the Aurio, that sort of driving) I've been told by an exhaust technician that it's the fuel slowly seeping through the cat converter and that's what you're smelling in the exhaust. Since Sulfur is present in petrol today you can smell it once it passes through an older (or faulty) cat converter. He said it's nothing serious as long as you wind a window down every once in a while, or turn the air-con on. As for how true any of that is, I have no idea... https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/toyota-aurion-rotten-egg-smell/#:~:text=If you happen to smell,of the sulfur in gasoline. (this article also mentions about sulfur content in fuel mixtures) Another toyotaownersclub member made a post about this specific topic already too:

You could use the same argument for Aurions in general too though.