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PaulW

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PaulW last won the day on July 27

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  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    1989 Prado & Camry Ateva
  • Toyota Year
    2003
  • Location
    Queensland
  • How did you find us?
    Search Engine
  • Interests
    Classic Cars

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    Paul

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  1. I can confirm the "tendency to seize and potentially snap" as this happened on my Prado. I omitted some detail in the original posting to keep it short. The bolts retaining the stone-guards were rusted in and heads rounded off. I could not get the guards off so I took the car to a local garage (this is before I had my own hoist installed). They removed the bolts and offered to install the belts at the same time. I supplied the belts and left it with them. When I came to pick the car up they explained that the A/C tensioner was that badly seized that it snapped off. The belt was then tensioned the old fashioned way by using a lever. I used the same method to tension the A/C belts when I recently replaced the faulty alternator belt. One day I will replace the A/C belt tensioner but it looks to be a major job.
  2. I sent the head to a local engineering workshop specialising in head reconditioning to be machined in case there was any warping. The threads in the block were repaired by Mobile Threadfix who came to my house to do the job. See my posting in a separate thread: https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/58786-2003-camry-acv36r-power-steering-pump/
  3. My 1989 Prado 3.4L petrol recently developed an annoying fan belt squeak. I had replaced all the drivebelts only 12 months ago and the car had done very few km since. I checked the tension on all 3 drivebelts and they were fine. I tried all the usual tests such as spaying water and belt dressing on the belts to no avail. I also listened for bearing noises in the various driven components such as the alternator. As a last resort I decided to remove all the drive belts to inspect them and the various pulleys. This is a real PITA as you have to remove the stone-guards under the car and undo 3 lots of belt tensioners. What I found was a section of grooved belt missing on the alternator belt, see photos below. I took the belt back to Repco who replaced it immediately even though it was well outside the warranty period. They thought it was a manufacturing fault. Regards Paul
  4. I decided to tally up the cost of these repairs as a guide to others who may be contemplating doing these repairs themselves. Parts and Services: $917.09 Tools: $142.18 Consumables: $68.76 Total: $1,128.03 Of course the tools are now part of my tool collection and will be used on other projects. So too will some of the consumables that were not used up on the job. I had been given estimates of around $2,500 to have this repair done professionally by a mechanical workshop so there were considerable savings by doing it myself. Plus of course the satisfaction of doing it myself and learning lots on the way. Regards Paul
  5. Finally got around to fitting the new bush into the shift cable linkage under the centre console. See photos below. The most difficult part was inserting the bush into the linkage eye at the end of the cable. I applied white zinc oxide grease to both the bush and the eye then used a small G-clamp to push the bush in. Temporary Fix Shift Cable Eye Bush Installed Cable Re-attached At the end of the job I gathered all the plastic bits that had somehow fallen off when the RACQ patrolman was getting me mobile again with his temporary fix (a couple of zip ties). See photo below. He did say that plastic get a bit brittle after a number of years. Most of the bits are redundant as the various components have several fixing points but I will have to glue the curved corner of my gear selector quadrant back in, if only for aesthetic purposes. Regards Paul
  6. Thanks for the link Ashley, I missed that one during my online search, only found USA based sellers. My micrometer goes from 1" to 2" so its a bit too big for this small bush but I will use my vernier calipers to record the critical dimensions. Regards Paul
  7. After some more prodding, the spare parts man at my local Toyota dealer referred me to a local mechanic who had apparently bought up the last of these bushes when Toyota listed them as a spare part. A quick trip to his garage and $50 later I became the owner of the last Camry auto trans cable bush in captivity. See attached photos of the old and new bush. Someone with a 3D printer could have a sideline business printing these bushes. The GM bushes, which looked a bit larger than the genuine item, have gone back to Repco for a refund. Tomorrow's job will be to fit the new bush. Regards Paul
  8. Hi Tony I went to my local Toyota dealer yesterday and they tried to sell me a complete transmission shift cable for $190 as the plastic bush is not available as a separate part. When I baulked at the price they suggested I try Repco for an aftermarket part. Repco have Dorman transmission bushing kits but not specifically for the Camry. They suggested I buy the Dorman 14055 kit, which is intended for GM cars, as this seems to fit a lot of other cars as well. I parted with $50 for a kit which consists of 2 small plastic bushes but haven't had the chance to try it out yet. Regards Paul
  9. Yesterday, after starting my Camry, I could not engage Drive. The shift lever moved loosely from one end of the quadrant to the other without engaging any gear. I called RACQ Roadside Service and the technician removed all the centre console trims to expose the end of the shift cable. Apparently a plastic clip that retains the eye of the shift cable onto the shift lever had perished and fallen off. He made a temporary repair with a couple of cable ties and I was on my way again. My question is this, can you buy these plastic clips as a replacement part from Toyota or an after market source? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Regards Paul
  10. Hi Mike Thanks for the tip. I will check it out at Supercheap and see if its suitable for my Camry.
  11. Problem Solved I checked and cleaned the PCV valve with TB cleaner and ensured it was working correctly before installing it back into the valve cover. Next I checked the inlet manifold vacuum and found it to be 17 in Hg on a cold start, rising steadily to 22 in Hg as the engine reached operation temperature. This is in accordance with the data published in the Haynes workshop manual. Finally it was time to check to IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Luckily it could be removed from the car without again removing the throttle body. It was full of black gunk which I removed with lots of TB cleaner and a small brush. I then removed the electric actuator from the IAC to check and ensure that the valve could move freely on its shaft. IAC Valve Body and Actuator After reassembly I installed the IAC valve on the TB in the car and plugged in the electrical connector. Upon starting the engine the idle revs went to 1000 RPM and then steadily dropped to around 650 RPM. Joy! Did some extensive test driving and stopping to check idle, but its perfect. So to sum up, happy camper, after Camry being off the road for 2 months.
  12. Hi astol87 I have tried your Custom Configuration String on my 2003 Camry ACV36R using Torque Pro and 3 different ELM327 adapters but without success. All I get is a blinking ABS light. Any recent update to your Configuration String? The adapters were: Tonwon T2 Bluetooth LE 4.0 (which works fine on my 2005 Jaguar), a generic ELM237 BT adapter, and a WiFi ODBII Diagnostic Interface. Has any other member on this forum been able to get this working? I would be keen to learn about your experience.
  13. Hi Damian This quite an old post but I am experiencing a similar problem. Did you ever find out what the problem was, and a solution? Regards Paul
  14. No issues like this before I pulled the head off. I checked for leaks by spraying throttle body cleaner around any suspect leak areas and listening for an increase in revs. I have now started a new thread WRT the fast idle issue.
  15. After repairing a leaking head gasket due to stripped head-bolt threads in block, the engine now idles way too fast. Its around 1400 RPM on starting, eventually rising to 2100 RPM whilst idling in neutral. Drops to 1100 RPM when Drive is engaged. I have checked for leaks around the inlet manifold, injectors and throttle body and found none (all new gaskets fitted during rebuild). Also checked hoses for any cracks or splits. Removed throttle body, cleaned it and checked operation of butterfly valve. Also checked that the resistance range of the TPS was within spec. I then tried to get the ECM to relearn the correct idle speed by following several of the suggested methods found via Dr Google but without success. Finally I pulled the electrical connector from the IAC valve whilst the engine was running and the idle speed immediately dropped to 1400 RPM. I suspect a problem with the IAC valve but before I pull it apart or buy a replacement I am consulting the collective wisdom of the members of this forum. Any ideas?

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