bradp51

I have two Aurions. I changed the coolant in one about 6 months ago using the method as seen on the youtube by the Car Care Nut. I just did it again on the second Aurion. This time instead of just emptying the radiator on the bottom tap I also attached tubes to the metal pipes on the engine block plugs. You have to jack the car up to get to these. The front one is behind the dipstick tube and the rear one is easy to see and get to. The front one I moved the heatshield for the manifold, but did not take the 02 sensor out. The front one is difficult to get to. The surprising thing to me was that I got nearly 5 litres of coolant out of the rear block tap. I carefully measured it all into buckets and got more than 7 litres out of the system. This included about 300ml out of the overfill plastic tank. The car care guy goes thru a great video of purging the system which works great. I read in my Haynes manual for the car about the two engine block taps. Haynes also suggests removing the thermostat and flushing water thru with a garden hose via the radiator hose. I did not do that but I did put 2 x bottles or radiator flush in and drove for half an hour then came back let it cool and then jacked it up and emptied all that fluid. I then filled it up with brand new toyota genuine fluid from the dealer which was cheap. Then went thru the air bleeding which works exactly like he says it does. I purchased the container with the special radiator caps from amazon as he links to his video. Works well. I changed the oil at the same time and filter. I do oil changes now at 7500 km and use Mobil 1 full synthetic. I managed to buy some in bulk recently on special and use it in the other Aurion and another car which takes the same oil grade. Just thought I would share my experience about using the engine block taps. You use a 10mm spanner to undo them and there is about a 25mm long 8mm spigot or pipe that you attach a hose to which i fed into a container under the car. It is a bit time consuming but I think worth it if you want to fully change the fluid out of the whole system not just a portion of it.

I just read this link and if you do not want to muck around as much as I did then this would be the go. Remember I had to modify my mount to fit the Pioneer and also run the wire from rear to front. That means loosening the liner in the boot, feeding through a hole in the body near the backrest inside the car. reinforcing the wire a that point with conduit to protect it, running along the floor and up to the head unit. I think if it a quick solution then $89 is cheap at half the price. Aerpro have info guides about their wire colours on their site and Pioneer does as well. A lot of these are standard.

Socks, I did this job but fitted a Pioneer AVICZ930DAB. I purchased two Pioneer RCAMAVIC cameras. I had to modify the fitting of the OEM bracket a little to get this one to fit at the same angle. the Pioneer camera and OEM toyota camera are about the same size. If I recall correctly the camera only has three wires. Positive, Ground and Video signal. I ended up tapping into a positive reverse light wire at the back of the car. Ran the earth wire to ground. I ran the video signal from the camera back to the head unit and made my own connection which I thick was an RCA type. The Head unit I have has the ability to quickly switch to camera two view if you buy a second camera. I have done that and did a test wire and just tapped it to the grill to see if it works. And it works great. I have ran a pull wire through the firewall where the OEM bundle goes through from the engine fuse box. I just need to get the time to add this front camera. This head unit also offers adjustable guide lines which appear and once you set them indicate a yellow lines at the side extensions and at 2 metres and a red line at 500mm. In theory though you can put these lines where ever you want. I just used the Pioneer recommended distances. All you need is a volt meter to test which wires are giving you the reverse trigger signal. I also used the Aerpro kit which had no instructions on how to fit the side brackets. Maybe I am slow but that was the hardest part and I never found the speed sensor wire but location and speed seem to be fine just with the GPS antennae attached. Wireless apple car play on this is just the best part of the car now. I am late seeing this so you probably have completed by now.

Thanks for that. Looks like I will just have to get one that cuts the bumper. 🙂

Hello all, I have some done some searching on the topic of towbars for the Aurion Touring 2010 - 2011. I actually have two of these. A silver one and a grey. I love these cars. I need to put a towbar on at least one. From the research I have done it seems you have to cut out a bit of the lower valance or rear bumper for the towbar to fit. Then I saw one the other day as it flashed past in the traffic and it appeared to exit under the bumper and rise up, hence no cut in bumper. Was I seeing things ? Or is there one available that fits like that. Thank you in advance for any help.

Well it took me a while but I have learned a great deal about car electrics and what is behind the dash in the Aurion. One of the biggest challenges was fitting and making the rear camera work but I got it worked out in the end. This head unit does everything. It can even run a front camera. I have ran he wiring for the front camera but have not fitted it yet. It has wireless Apple CarPlay and also you can mirror to the screen from your phone. Looking forward to trying out the navigation too. DAB+ radio which just booms in. I must admit I looked at lots of websites and some Youtubes to help me along the way. A very good learning experience too. I used a Aerpro fitting kit which makes it look like it was factory fitted.

Campbeam and Twixter thank you both for the replies. Will have a check of the ebay listing. 😀

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the shape of a 2009 Aurion Front Grill piece between the 2009 year model and the 2010 ? I am new to the Aurion and still learning about it. What a great car.

Thank you for that. i will have a look. I have bitten the bullet and purchased the oil pan and will do the job. I will post pics of what the pan looks like after 99k of driving. The log books show regular oil changes about every 7 to 8 thousand kilometres from previous record but they could have put cooking oil in there for all I know. But if the cabin filter was anything to go by I am not sure. I have no experience with cabin filters as only have one other car that has one. That car has on 16,000km so never looked at it. The one on this Aurion was absolutely filthy. Here is a photo of the filter. Here is a photo of how much crap came out of the right side fender. The photo of the leaves does not really show how much actual dirt/mud was in there as well. The dust pan is extra large you get some scale from the stanley knife. The left was the same.

ZZT86, I appreciate your comments. Maybe I took it a bit hard. The car has always had long trips as we live a bit from anywhere. Semi rural. Before I purchased the car it was a country car in Port Macquarie. The books with it showed regular services. In the 410,000 km since then regular services. I think it is a product of the long mileage. You are assuming this should not happen and I respect that opinion. There are probably not many people here who have a car like this with 490,000 km and have actually pulled off the sump to look into it. You did not mention how many ks your 1MZ-FE Camry had when you sold it and whether you have actually ever pulled off the sump. Bottom line is I will be doing more frequent oil changes from now on in the hope that pulling off sumps to clean them and the oil pick up in reduced. Thanks for your reply. And to KAA, I am always going to defend myself if I think that someone is taking a shot. And if you have a look at the original comment it was a shot. Sure I agree It looks like a capacino machine but it has never been mistreated. It has never done short trips. And it has never had condensation or fuel dilution from short trips. People need to be careful making assumptions. Anyway time to move. Doing some work on the new Aurion (well new to me) The previous owner must have had it parked under some trees at some time. The inside of the rocker panels and under the fender liner was full of dirt and leaves. The only way to really get it out is the remove the rocker panel. The mud flap and the fender liner. Getting some of the fasteners out is hard and I have damaged some. Have to get some new ones. Its worth doing as it a place rust can develop. I have found the oil pan is dented in as well. Looks like on the Aurion you have to pull the exhaust off after the manifold to get the oil pan out. The old one was easier.

Wow. Big call to say that when you know nothing about me or the car. I have owned this car for 420,000 kilometres. It has had oil changes and services every 10k. Always does long trips as we live on the outskirts of Sydney. So a trip to school and back was 30 km. To the main shopping centre was 50km. Done about 8 trips to Brisbane in last 12 years. I have had the same mechanic doing services on the car using sythetic oil for the last 14 years. I got the car just short of 80,000 km. I am the second owner. If stupid comments like yours are the norm in this forum I am outa here and I just joined. It was a revelation to me just how much junk was in there so I thought I would share.

Here are some before and after pics

This issue relates to my 493,000 km series 20 V6 Camry however I am sure it may apply to any similar engine. I got a low oil pressure warning light on the car and went through the following steps. I first (of course) checked the oil level and it was correct. The warning light would only come on after about 5 to 10 minutes. I thought perhaps that the oil pressure sensor might be faulty as perhaps it was the original one and maybe just worn out. Car is 20 years old. That job turned out to be much longer than I thought. I needed a 24 mm deep sock which I did not have. I purchased the socket and also a new oil pressure sensor. When I went to remove the old one I could not get the socket to fit on. Turned out the socket was a little rounded on the nut and also turned out to be 27mm. To make sure I got one that fitted I purchased a 25 26 and 27mm. The alternator belt really gets in the way so I loosened it up to get the belt off which takes a little time but makes access to the oil sensor so much easier. So new sensor in and start car and same thing again. Strike 2. So the next step was to check the sump oil pick. I removed the steel lower oil sump and was amazed with what I found. I have owned this car for a long time and have either changed the oil myself or have had it done at other services or repairs. Anyway there was more crud in there that I would have thought. The screen of the oil pick up tube was 90% blocked with crud. i do not know how any oil was being sucked up by the oil pump. It took me ages to clean both the lower steel pan and the underside of the upper alloy part. The oil pick up screen was easy using a pick took. Put it all back together using permatex silicone to seal. I then filled it with brand new cheap mineral oil (and new oil filter) and 300ml Liquid Moly engine clean. Ran the engine for 15 minutes as per the instructions. The oil warning is not coming up now so I am sure it was the oil pick up blocked by crud. I( am now going to drain the mineral oil and fill my shiny clean sump with new Synthetic oil and a new K&N oil filter. I like the nut fitted to the top of Kn. Makes it so easy to get off. I have only just purchased my Aurion and so the first thing I am going to do is pull the sump off that to check the oil pick up and give it all a good clean. Took some photos and will post up later.

Thanks Ashley, Keen to learn a bit more about the Aurion. Yes always been a big fan of quality oil and regular oil change. Dad always said its the lifeblood of the engine. cheers

I have 2 older Camrys. One is a 1999 and one is a 2001. I thinks it is the 20 series. Both are Touring models with 3.0 litre V6 engine. I have owned both since 76k km and 81k km respectively. The 1999 (mine) has 469,941km and my wife has the 2001 at 493,605km. I always put full synthetic oil in both. Timing belts is the only engine maintenance ever done. Of course batteries, starter motor, radiator, alternator etc have been done but the internals still going strong. I am selling the 1999 and so purchased a 2010 Toyota During Touring today. It has 99,000 km on it. One owner with great set of log books. I will change the oil first thing next week when I pick it up to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. I just love the Camry Touring series. My first post. 🙂