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Sebastian Woodhouse

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Sebastian Woodhouse last won the day on October 9

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About Sebastian Woodhouse

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    Aurion Prodigy
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    Australian Capital Territory

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  1. Manuals for things like Navigation etc are available from www.toyotamanuals.com.au Its not the most intuitive site but has a lot of freely accessible ownership doco
  2. Not a 2GRFE, but I recently spent 4 hours beating a waterpump out of the block of my other car. It was held on with 3 bolts and 14 years of previous owners sins with cooling system maintenance. It is barely a 2 hour job otherwise - and that includes removing a headlight to get access to the pump. So yeah, just maybe it was a job going pear shaped because of circumstances that normally would be predicted. Access isn’t that bad, but if the pump is corroded in place then the game changes a lot.
  3. Yep - there’s not much point in pushing harder on Sebastian’s paint. I’ve left a decent amount of deeper swirls and marring as well as the scratches. He’s now probably typical in terms of paint damage for his age, but with a really good clarity so the various metallic flakes sparkle in the light. It’s got two heavy coats of CQuartz over it now. There’s not much else to be done except be on top of the coating maintenance. But enough on the body. I’m currently getting my head around a glitch in the climate control system, but I would say I’ll just fire the parts canon at that - it’s either the Fan, or the controller. I wouldn’t mind a a control panel with less wear on some of the buttons and it does have to be stripped for the LED conversion. The other to and fro is the headunit. On one hand there’s a couple of Joying units that could be fitted and work. Joying are one of the better aftermarket integrated units if only because their base specs are generally higher. The other hand is waiting for some normalcy in aftermarket units to return. I’d been looking at the Kenwood DMX820WS specifically, but I’m also wonder that maybe giving up on the 200mm fitment and going for an Alpine ILX407A and pairing it with the (US sourced) CANBUS interface to do the one screen vehicle configurations that the factory unit does would be cool. That said I can always use Techstream for config and do I really need the A/C settings appearing on a screen directly above the AC controls?
  4. Sebastian and I had a spa date in the garage for about 7 hours today. I’ve shown some of the swirling and paint damage before - and I had compounded a stack of the body, that’s the hazy look to the quarter in the foreground but didn’t do the boot lid, rear bumper or roof. I’d gone pretty hard on the bonnet leaving only the worst of the damage. But again, only with a diminishing compound and not a final polish. Today this was going to change. Roof compounded - yes the compound is a diminishing type and when worked fully dry will give a near complete finish. The clouded areas I had worked the compound damp (stops it from breaking down, increasing the cut time). Bonnet after final polishing. There’s still the deeper scratches etc but for the most part the finish is as good as it is going to get without risking the clear coat. After a lot more polishing, and then two (heavy) coats of Ceramic. His bad side, the rear door and quarter have had some of the worst paint repair I’ve ever seen. I might end up repainting the door myself if it gets to me enough. But for now it reflects nicely. The other side is factory paint, and while it has some mediocre scratch repairs they’re blended a little better after the compounding and polishing. I like the art level of capturing our other cars in the shot too 🙂 A close up reminder of where we started and where we are at right now.
  5. I grabbed the rattle gun and chooched it. Having the correct 10mm square key meant little to no risk of chewing it up. Makes me think either the torque spec of the filter housing is well above “nip it up snug” - would have to be 50Nm compared to the drain bungs 25Nm - or we should be lubing the o-ring and threads differently.
  6. I will see in a few weeks when I do this again 🙂 it’s a neat design in principle but I think you’re right.
  7. You could try throwing a few doses of “Fuel Doctor” into it. You get it from Supercheap etc and it’s a green liquid. in short it’s a fuel stabiliser and treatment that deals with “stale fuel”. I know what you’re thinking “I use the car and fill it up every week etc, I can’t have stale fuel”. Well here’s the flip side. Once you’ve got a stale fuel in the tank it will contaminate the next full and the next full so the car never really gets past it. One of the signs of this are some very very bad exhaust smells, a much more “eye watering” chemical odour. Our MX5 was really bad for this, as it gets driven sub 2000km/year. I dose it quarterly with Fuel Doctor and it’s “back to normal”. It’s not cheap, but I’m my experience it’s worth the expense and did address a similar problem.
  8. Today Sebastian had his first oil change in my care. some things of note. Sump plug was in really good condition which is nice. However. The drain bung in the bottom of the oil filter housing was well stuck in. Yeah this thing. I ended up using a rattle gun on it off the car. That revealed a nice pocket of sludge in the drain valve. the housing itself cleaned up nice with brake cleaner - but again some carbon crumbs and some varnishing. All that’s gone now. I did take a leaf out of Sludgies book and run through an oil flush prior to draining. Definitely got some extra muck loose compared to just dumping oil. Frah filter and a sump full of cheaply purchased Gulf Western synthetic. We will hopefully do some longer runs in the next couple of weeks and I’ll do another flush and change after that. Next official service is due in January-ish so he will go to Toyota for that. Overall still a happy camper. The sludge I could have lived without but I don’t know how many “book service” cars wouldn’t have some lingering around.
  9. That’s a very Asian way of running a house as a second home. Have seen such arrangements in Malaysia where ex-pats simply sell the bundle on to the next ex-pat. Cars, furniture, golf club membership etc all transfers. If you could shake out the right buyer you’d be lucky, but I’m not sure ho many would pay a significant premium for it over the $15-20k bracket?
  10. There’s a rather significant part of me that admires your persistence, but that’s tempered by the “damnit man, valve covers off, sump off, diesel and a brush” The sludge must be like a sandbar in the upper parts of the motor and really a day of effort on “mechanical” removal followed by another few of your extreme flushing changes would deal it it. That said I get the logic of what you’re doing and to each their own 🙂 Which does remind me I do have to give Sebastian an oil change and fresh plugs. Will send him to my gearbox whisperer for a gearbox flush before too long also.
  11. Yep. A genuine kit, I found a dealer selling a bunch of then when I was trawling eBay for Genuine mats and Bootliner before Sebastian even arrived here. Most of the (family/practical) cars we’ve had in the last 20 years have had some form of footwell illumination so the $85 for the kit was a no brainer. It’s something that should have been a standard fitment or an easier install but I guess by some point Toyota AU had given up on the Aurion development and market.
  12. And the night view. The interaction of the two globe types/colours does make for some interesting purple hues. Rear seat passengers have the light obscured by the front seat position. It definitely lights up the footwell!
  13. Today I finally installed the Toyota Genuine Accessory Interior light kit. After removing a the lower half of both sides of the dash, the scuff plates and the B-pillar lower trim the fun job starts. Grab some tape and measure up as per the Toyota instructions. Once there’s a 16mm hole the lights can be installed. It’s a shame they’re light grey and not the darker grey of the trim. The control interface for these gets strapped to the wiring above the passengers left foot. A branch then runs across the car to the drivers side kick panel, and onwards to the B-Pillar. The shorter branch stays on the passenger side and journeys to the passenger B-pillar. There’s heaps of room to work, and yet it feels cramped. The kit taps the factory wiring with vampire clips at the A-pillar roof loom junction. End result looks good, but not as “polished” integration as I would expect from a manufacturer accessory. The lighting is a Warm-White and Blue LED hybrid which I’m looking forward to seeing at night.
  14. Should note: ADR specifies the maximum error. The biggest change is now under any condition/test a vehicle as delivered by the manufacturer cannot have a true rod speed that is above the indicated speed. The are also some provisions around the visual accuracy of reading the instruments as well which is where the 4km/h typically can be explained off. From memory the 4km/h is arbitrary because it’s the largest whole number under 5, and the wording is something like “the operator must be able to determine the the reading within x% of the scale”. Which broadly means if you see the needle half way between the 90 and 100 marks you must be doing less than 95. But if parallax error due to seating position means you are seeing the needle position on scale differently (like your passengers do) then you would still have a margin of safety. This is why often a digital readout speedometer is “more accurate” than the gauge style because it doesn’t actually have to deliberately over read to get around visual interpretation of needle position. Obviously the percentage error is also about mechanical (and digital relationships between rotating items). Some cars have incredibly accurate speedometers that are near perfect to 40km/h then from that point adopt an exact 4km/h over read.
  15. On the Ford stuff I play with we occasionally find that popping the “cover” (screwed not riveted on the Ford) and doing a proper gear of the wiper and contact surfaces with contact cleaner and then reliving with the correct contact lubricant works well. At the same time the drive motor gears get a clean and fresh live also. That said a replacement throttle body is $60-$250 range so you do wonder if it’s worth the effort. It would be interesting to split the Toyota TB open and see if the same clean routine can be performed.

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