Zr240

i'll most likely be there.

http://acw.moliu.org/album05?page=1 my photomode gallery

yes the pads are good. the rotors aren't, they warp very easily ← havent had any problems with my rotors so far- touch wood. and they have been to at least 5 trackdays(half of which were in stinking hot summer). the oem corolla brakes are imo very good!- more than adequate for trackuse on street rubber.

ive been wasting my time on the jap version. if u have played gt3 and gt4 prologue you get an extra 10000credits or what not. I think the maximum amount u can carry over from gt3 is 100000credits. In any case, i did all of the above and it didnt really get me very far[couldnt understand half the menus to get the money in the first place!]. In theory, you could play about 15% into the game without even buying a car. You now get prize cars just for passing the damn licenses, one of which is a nismo 270R. To be honest, the game is ridiculously easy 90% of the time. With the new B spec mode, you dont even have to be at the television to be racing. The other 10% of the time, you have extremely difficult challenge races- e.g. the final mission- where you drive a mercedes SLR and try and beat the rest of the mercedes stable on the nurbugring, all of whom have a 1 minute head start. Actually, anything on the nurburgring is pretty damn difficult. The AI in the game is terrible, dont believe the crap about how they respond to your racing lines etc, they are all emotionless robots who enjoy hitting the walls and each other. The tuning houses as mentioned before, dont actually achieve anything. All parts are the same both in price and performance as the normal in house tuning menu. It's just there for **** value really. *although apparently in the pal version certain tuning houses have 'original' parts which DO make an improvement. Also in the jap version there is no 2 player memory card battle which absolutely sucks. Ive been told this has been put back in for the pal version. In the good news, * photomode is addictive * there are heaps of older cars * every car handles differently, and some are genuinely fun to drive- any of the MR cars are very entertaining. other than that its a disappointing game for me. but still well worth playing. p.s. u cant mod the mercedes patentwagon thing, nor can u drive it in races with more than one car. ditto for the caterham, or any car where the driver is exposed.

I found the stock toyota brake pads to be pretty damn good. in fact the whole braking setup is very good on the levins (not sure how it is for the sportivos). The pedal starts getting inconsistent before the pads go off, so i would personally change fluids first. on street tyres, the oem pads are great!

lol! never realised my back tyre comes up? werd to the tyre damage yesterday. I had to actually swap my front yokohama a539 back to the crappy OEM michelin energy because my front left was so bald i thought it would blow! yeh name's vincent, i'll come up and introduce myself next time..

ah so that was you! 1:17 is flying! I went yesterday as well, dirty black corolla levin wagon with one foglight missing. it was stinking hot...i only managed a 1:19.4 in the practice sessions in the morning but had fun the rest of the day. what sort of tyres were you using?

http://www.circuit-club.com/trackday.html Wakefield park 24TH FEBRUARY ( i think it's a thursday) Official Racetiming. 45 spots, I booked mine just then. See ya there! *organised by narada - bloke with blue RCS who some of you might have met before.

I get the same problem on my 1zzfe manual wagon. I always just thought it was due to the fact I thrash the crap out of it without warming it up etc. *nice to know it's a factory standard feature:D

We made it 170km with the light on once, so there is a big safety margin there! this is with a manual 1zzfe wagon.

Thanks for the tips guys. Popped down to whiteline the other day, and installed them this afternoon. Can't quite say i followed the crappy instructions to a tee, but I put them at what looked to me as the max negative camber settings for the top bolt(big part of cam facing towards body, inner small tab facing wheel). So it should be relatively close to -1.5 It's a bit of a dodgy bros install without a proper wheel alignment, but i don't have time at the moment. cant really tell if its made much difference at all just driving around the streets at sedate speeds. Will need to bring it to bloody wakefield again to see if my tyres wear a bit more evenly now.

Ive driven on the track with a bunch of other tyres before, and none of them really experienced wear like the a539's and es100's. [pirelli p5000 drago, falken azenis, dunlop fm901] I put this down to a combination of a few things. 1. They overheat very quickly, and if you keep pushing them once they get past this limit.. .then its like melting pork fat on a hotrock. 2. The stock wheel alignment on my corolla is not very perfomance orientated. Being a 60 series tyre also doesnt help matters, and there is a whole bunch of sidewall flex when you push it right to the edge. As a result the outside of the tyres take a beating.

Zee, I notice you have some whiteline camber bolts on your car. I was going to try and dial in some more camber manually the other day, but if the whiteline kit isnt too expensive i might as well just do that. How much negative camber can you get, and how much do the bolts cost? I'm quite happy with the neutral handling of the wagon already, just need a bit more cornering grip. My tyre wear is horrendous on the outer edges and untouched on the insides. Hi Vincent, welcome to the forum! Were you in a Black wagon and we had a bit of fun for a couple of laps? You were pretty quick then and onto my tail.. I was abt to pull into the pits when i saw your car then thought i will have a little run with you but i couldn't get the car to turn in and brake.. but it was fun! Like you metioned that was a great day due to the amount of cars that turned out. Hope to see you again soon sometime! Cheers, Zee ←

I have a 02 Levin wagon. I used to have a pair of Yokohama ES100's on the front, which made a huge difference in "feel" and "noise" with the added bonus of better grip. Compared to the stock michellin energy's, the sidewalls are much stiffer, city driving traction loss noise is stealthlike and well yes there is more grip both in wet and dry. They also have a bit more tyre noise when driving around normally. I cant remember the price , but they were quite reasonable. Roughly $130-40 per tyre fitted. On the track, they only last two laps in the heat before they start melting away at a very quick rate. I got maybe a total of 25000 km(including two track days and a few farmyard excursions) out of them which is pretty miserable. I now have a set of yokohama A539's on the front. Officially, these are meant to be just below the ES100's, but my experience seems to differ. The dry and wet grip is noticeably improved over the ES100's. They do lose out a touch on sidewall stiffness and definitely aren't as quiet when going enthusiastically around roundabouts. On the track, they last a bit longer but still get munched up if you step over the mark for too long. Ive gone down to wakefield twice on these tyres, and it looks like they will only last maybe 25000km again. Price wise, they are the same if not cheaper than the ES100's. --- So would i go with these tyres again? Probably not. Whilst they are relatively cheap 'sporty' tyres,Im not that impressed with the level of grip and wear rate. p.s. my stock michellin energy's are still on my back end, and they barely look worn at all! lol.

howdy, Sorry for bringing this post up from the dead, but I just managed to find this forum. I think i bumped into a few of you guys at this trackday. I was driving a black corolla stationwagon, with a kangaroo'd bumper and one foglight missing, and half the goulburn locust population on my headlights. It was one of the best trackdays ive been to just because there were so many cars! Loved the dicing with the sportivos, rollcaged 306, commodores etc. great stuff. cheers, vincent

Hi there, Those times sound a bit off for the respective cars. I can't remember the exact issue, but I recall a similar test with different cars where they used the longer chicaned circuit at wakefield. The chicane is located on the uphill stretch after turn 1. Perhaps this explained the slower times? Some times i know of from friends and what not include: Dc2 Integra type R: 1:12.X completely stock- bridgestone re540s. S2000: 1:09.X unsure as to what mods, but it was still n/a and not a race car. civic vti-r: stock 1:19.X on old semislicks Mx5: NB 1.8 1:15.xx stock on street tyres. The quickest time i have managed on my stock corolla levin wagon is high 1:18 on street tyres. Although its more like consistent 1:19/20's after that flying lap because the street tyres sure take a beating. If i attack the ripple strips a bit more, should be able to squeeze in a low 1:18/17 lap!!! here's to dreamin'.