David the Viking

Im in if the date is mid to late September.

They are different designs in that the mechanism that does the locking work in different ways. If you are after both front and rear I think that ARB is the only way to go as dont think TJM have one for the front diff in the Prado.

Have you check out ebay? Usually some on there.

The 7m ones are from memory LOW impedance and the 1mz and 2j are HIGH impedance.

Have you had a look at the Pradopoint forum? There is probably a lot more info and 90 series owners who could answer that question for you.

Looks good Andrew! I was looking for the blue nuts

You need to get rid of that Ford and get something that can ford across the water!

BUMP! Will take any reasonable offers. I need these sold.

I have for sale a set of new genuine Toyota brake pads for the TRD Aurion. I need to get rid of these as i no longer have my TRD. Sorry I do not want to split them up for separate sale. Any reasonable offers considered. Also available is a supercharger drive belt for the TRD Aurion. This is the shorter updated belt genuine Toyota item. Toyota retail is around $500. Any reasonable offers considered. These items were originally purchased from a Brisbane Toyota dealer. Please PM if interested.

I heard from a reliable source that Daryl was pulled over by the police on Edward St in the city this morning around 10.

I guess it depends when you plan on doing a brake pad change. If it was soon I would probably just top it up for now and do the flush at the same time as changing the pads. If the pads dont need to be changed it would be best to do a flush especially if you are unsure when it was last done as it should be changed every 2 years.

The hand brake light if I remember correctly is also used to indicate low brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. So check the levels and top up if needed. The door switches get dirty with time, pull them out and give them a clean and this will most likely fix that up. The seat belt light only comes on for a short amount of time and goes off unlike the newer cars where a chime annoys the hell out of you. Are you just trying to lock the car with the key in the ignition? Or are you talking about locking the doors for safety while the car is being driven? I dont think the car can be locked with the remote while the key is in the ignition as a precaution so that keys dont become locked inside the car. But you should be able to lock the doors from the rocker switch on the drivers door while inside the car with the keys in the ignition.

Just make sure of the usual things like regular servicing that is documented etc. Our 11/07 Ateva with 35K on the clock has the intermediate shaft issue which is now on order under warranty. It does have a slight dash rattle but only when going over things like bridge joints. Overall I am happy with our purchase.

You would have to cough up more than $20 for me to take a vn! Replied to PM

When I bought them from the wreckers I paid $70 for them. Make me an offer.

Mick I have a pair of front hubs from a gen3/4 Camry that I want to be rid of. Also have a pair of rotors (275x28mm) and some Avalon/gen4 Camry single piston calipers that fit them if you are interested.

From my understanding it works off of the speed sensor input to the radio and increases the volume and loudness as speed increases. Is only really noticable over 100km/h with the volume aready turned up.

The hose is from the a/c compressor.

Here are some pics taken from the passenger side.

I will take some pics for you when I go out later today.

I like the look of the UK forum. It is still easy on the eyes.

The GTP wheels for the gen 4 Camry are 17x7 with a +42 offset. I originally fitted 235/45/17 and experienced rubbing on the outside edge of the tyre and guard. Now running 225/45/17 which is the recommended size but I did have the guards rolled to stop the rubbing. There is not really a lot of room in the rear guards but I did have some 18x7.5 +45 offset wheels with 225/45/18 tyres without any issues on for a little while. Best to keep between +40 to +45 offset and a 7 or 7.5 inch width especially if you want to lower it.

That would depend on if I could find a 3mz at a reasonable cost and how thick the bores are in the 1mz. I would say that they are pretty much the same block as with all the other series of engines that Toyota makes.

In respect to this question obviously not, or I wouldn't need to ask the question but I thought someone might have some, more constructive answers, ie the reply they are two completely different engines thanks for that one and others. Are the two engines in fact completely different I find this difficult to believe as costs to do that would I think have been prohibitive, yes there are significant differences and vast improvements but was the basic block changed or altered and if altered can this also be changed on the 3Ltr block .. As stated above the 3.5 2gr block and 3.0 1mz are not going to be compatible for a parts interchange. There is at least a decade between design of both engines. If you want more capacity you will need to source a 3mz which is a 3.3litre engine. In Australia it came in the 1st gen Kluger fitted with drive by wire throttle and vvti on the intake cams. It should also be possible to bore the 1mz to 3.3litres as these blocks are nearly identical. One of the main differences was the use of better conrods in the 3mz compared to the 1mz. Wikipedia page on the MZ series of engines.

The biggest restriction is the y pipe joint just before the cat converter on the 1mz engines. It would be best to change/modify both to get any sort of benefit and even then it will probably be only very small.