94CamryCSI

DON'T DO IT unless you are strapped for cash. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, DON'T. Fuel prices are nothing in comparison to the headache you will have. I had mine converted to Gas last september. It went back to the LPG mechanic an average of 2 times a month till March. Eventually, I have just given up. It still shakes at idle. You save money on Gas, no question about it, but here are the drawbacks: 1) You waste a lot of time and money going back to the mechanic repeatedly 2) Your savings are not that significant - Net savings are 10%-20% based on lpg being roughly 40% the cost of petrol due to extra maintainence 3) Short trips hurt your engine more than on petrol 4) You have more things to remember - you need to keep switching your car to petrol once every week if you keep the fuel tank. 5) you loose the bootspace 6) your car will NOT run as smoothly - don't let them tell you otherwise, it doesn't. 7) Parts under the hood are under more stress, weird pings and rattles will start happening from your car. This is the negatives based on my personal experience. I still don't regret the decission though, I am saving about 17% on what I would have paid for fuel, and my time is not that expensive. You have to keep in mind the following though: My car is a 94 - yours is 6 years newer Your time may be worth a lot more. If you get paid somethig like 35 an hour, having to take the car to the mechanic even once extra could mean $70, and that would be virtually 2 months of savings down the drain, and annoyances on top of that. I HATE rattles. You may not care if your car makes a little more noise I have a 4cyl, you feel the roughness of the idle a lot more than you would in a v6. Seems like you have done a lot more research about your system as well, I just went to the first guy who had an appointment. You might not have any problems what so ever. Whatever way you decide, I hope my post has given you something to think about.

Can anyone shed light on these "pleanty of DIY's on the net" please. I am not sure if the 94 Csi came with remote central locking, but I guess i would be prepared to try if i knew how to program the remote

I had my coolant flushed at the begining of the year, and Green coolant was put in.... I have a 94 Camry CSi. Should i be flushing to get original red coolant in there? I noticed i had to replace my radiator cap recently (Water was remaining in my resivor and the radiator was sometimes low before i did this). thanks for your help

I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but I have a 94 Camry (5sfe 4 cyl) on LPG and it runs fine. Had it converted roughly 2.5 months ago, been 6500km of trouble free motoring so far. Here are a few pointers i think you should know about: *The tank size can be an issue, mine is a bit small with 61l of usable LPG.... normally get it to fill to 58l on completely dry. I get 7.77km/l out of LPG, i was getting 11km/l on petrol. *The car shakes a little bit more at the lights while running on LPG in comparison to on petrol... (my installer can fix that, but then i only get 7km/l) - my car also has 255 000 km on it... so keep that in your considerations. *For regular driving, lpg is fine.... even through rev ranges, power difference is un-noticible.... but from 120km/h to 130km/h, it feels like u are getting out of the car and pushing it..... On petrol, its an entirely different kettle of fish... till about 140, i have never had any dramas.... *Servicing becomes an issue, I used to have my car serviced every 10 000km, but i've been told by the LPG installer to have it done every 5000km.... may be different for ur car as its a lot newer *Starting the car can be troublesome...... keep taking it back to the installer, it will eventually start like it did on petrol.... should drive EXACTLY the same. I hope that answers some of ur queries.... if u were more interested in the engine wear side of things, sorry, but i haven't really had the conversion done for long enough to tell you that, also our engines are entirely different.

Rightio..... Yes power wire is the battery wire (or the signal wire when u have the ignition turned on) 2. Turn the lights on, put the earth end on an earth, (ie metal part of the car) and second part on the wire you have plugged into the stereo as an earth. Shouldn't throw a reading. If it does, it means that when u turn on the lights, the wire is Positive.

Considering: Cheapest plugs u will find will be $15 a pop, thats $60, u got $20 for a cheap aftermarket air filter, $10 for an aftermarket oil filter, $20 for reasonable quality oil.... u have about $110 in the cheapest parts u can find.... if u go genuine, u r looking at $150. $300 sounds very reasonable to me considering that a normal mechanic charges $50 labour for just a simple oil change. Toyota know ur car, check it for any recalls etc, It all depends on how many KM u do.... I do about 35 000 a year, my 94 camry gets an oil change every 5000km from the cheapest mechanic i can find (usually about $95). If i could afford it, once a year, i'd take it to toyota to make sure it is problem free.... as it stands, i just can't afford it.

Yeah the memory thing happened. And I think my park lights are still working, they better be lol my dads out atm in the car haha. I'll check when he gets back. The only thin that's not lighting up that i know of is the dash. So I can;t see my speed fuel etc, everything still works to the best of my knowledge. I'll check when the old man gets back Also, since youve done it already, can you tell me which one of the 'power' wires is which? Like the ones coming from the car? I have a red a dark green and a blue wire with a red stripe. Ok I've just checked, the brake lights work, that is what you were referring to when you meant park lights isnt it? No Brake lights are not park lights..... Try turing the headlights to half on.... ie park lights..... and u walk to the front of the car.... from memory thats what went bad anyways. Wiring Colours .... sorry mate, that was 2.5 years ago..... i have NO CLUE which wire is which anymore..... ESP since i ended up paying a professional in the end. Do you have a multi meter? Simlest way to eliminate my concern is this: Get a multimeter (if u don't have one, u shouldn't really be doing any wiring), put it onto the volt meter, put the black wire onto an earthed part of the car .... something metal.... put the other end on what u believe to be power wire... should throw a reading. Now put the red end on what u have wired into the stereo as earth, and slowly turn on the lights... then either call me an annoying ***** for having wasted about 10 mins of ur time, or thank *** that your car hasn't set on fire.... yet. If you get REALLY stuck with wiring, lemme know, i'll pull out my dash and give u the colours.... no point in forking out the 80 bucks a professional charges to do a crap job... (mine didn't even put back all my screws .... pricks)

The fuses in the engine bay are right next to the air filter. (left hand side of the car). Are you sure it is only your interior lights that are dead? I'd have another look to see if the "park" lights work still...., if they don't.... DONT TURN ON UR LIGHTS: You have wired up the power source for the ilumination in the factory stereo where ur earth is supposed to be.... When the lights are off, it acts as an earth, when u switch the lights on, it acts as power..... How do i know? I was stupid enough to do the same thing, I blew every bulb in my Dash, That was an EXPENSIVE exercise (4 of the bulbs are $10 a pop, 6 others are $4 each, and another 5 are impossible to get at and also $4 a pop) ... since then, my AC button is also sticky.... I didn't realise what the problem was till i went to an auto electrician and forked out $35 for them to tell me i'm an idiot. People will correct me if i am wrong, but the only effect connecting the ignition wire and the power wire around the wrong way would have is that you wouldn't have a memory on ur clock, or u could still use the stereo when the car is off.... but it is possible u have blown a fuse by doing that... just unlikely.

Oh okay.... Any ideas where i would go to get the conversion done in canberra? Anwhere I have gone to so far, just tells me that they put a motor on the regulator, that turns the existing regulator, i.e. i have to have working manual windows to begin with. As for the buttons on the door trim or centre console, i don't really care!

Thought you had to have working manual windows to convert to power if you were using an aftermarket kit.

u could try the online search facilities for wreckers like findapart.com.au might help

If you are gonna part it, can I buy ur window regulators?

94 Camry CSI (2.2l) Bought in 2003 with 222 xxx, till feb this year, 235xxx, now 253 6xx. I'm now doing about 700km - 900km a week. Anyone wanna sell me their cruise control? LOL

Hi guys, Its great to see an Australian site about camrys. I have a Gen 3, 94 CSI (5s fe). My problem is that my window regulators keep dying on me. I have owned the car for 2 years, and among the multitude of repairs I have had to have done, I have also got a dead window regulator in EVERY door in the car. Now, my Driver's door one has broken again (1 year after replacement with a second hand one). I wound the one in my car back, and it lasted a week before dying again. Is this a common problem? Is there any way I can fix it permanently? Ideally, i would like to change the manual windows to power windows, but not sure if I could afford it. thanks for ur help ankit