Barry58

Hi Conrad, I put the new clutch in a few weeks ago with no problem. I bought a good trolley jack and then cut two 200mm by 200mm 10 mm plates, one bolted on top of the jack, the second attached to the other plate with two 100mm hinges. This made it possible to lower the transmission while changing the angle and still having the transmission firmly strapped to the top plate using a standard ratchet strap. This made it quite easy. I changed the clutch in my previous 83 hilux around 1992. I can't remember how I did it but I think I may have just huiked the bugger out by hand. Thirty some years late I am a bit more cautious and less strong and also less cheap. The modified jack was well worth the investment. Thanks again for the advice.

My info is second hand so judge accordingly. One of the guys at my work had a compressor with a frozen bearing on the drive end. He was told a new compressor would be required. Since he had nothing to lose but a bit of time, he had a go at fitting a new bearing. He was able to unbolt the compressor with the high and low pressure lines still attached and get enough access to get a puller onto the bearing after removing the pulley and end cover. He then fitted a new bearing and it worked fine. I am not knowledgeable enough about AC problems to judge if that is a good idea, but you could raise it as a possibility if you know someone who is.

Hi Conrad, Thanks for that advice. I am presently waiting to receive the clutch on order from the local Autobarn so I will hopefully get it put in sometime this week. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Barry

Hello, I own a 2000 Hilux Workmate RZN147R with the 2 litre motor and G54 transmission. I am looking at replacing the clutch but have foreseen one problem that may make it a bit difficult. The cross member at the rear of the transmission that holds the torsion bars is welded to the frame. It overlaps the transmission even with the transmission is fully installed. I can't see how to remove the transmission without having to move it back to disengage the spline and then tipping it down enough that I can then move it forward until the end clears the cross member. I am wondering if this is too cumbersome to attempt under the vehicle with vehicle stands raising it up at home and if I should have it done by a repair shop with a proper hoist to work under. Has anyone else done this repair?