DANZZT231

I find the RE001 is somewhat lacking on wet conditions, but maybe because I had Falken FK452 and Bridgestone RE050A previously which were very good in both wet and dry conditions. Hopefully the RE002 solved that as on the dry the RE001 is very good on grip and road feel. Or maybe I shouldn't stepped down on tyre grade in the first place.

Hey guys, It has been a long time since I posted anything on this forum. Anyhow, I figured I may aswell report on the Falken FK452 after 1.5 years of usage. Throughout the use, the FK452 served me well. Plenty of mountain run and highway driving from Gold Coast to Brisbane/Sunshine Coast and back. So after 1.5 years of duties the FK452 is due for replacement. 1.5 years is not a lot, but my wheel alignment is extreme for day to day. Regarding milage, I say about 20,000km. Since last January 2010 the Celica served me as get-to-office-and-home, highway cruiser, and no spirited driving. So no abuse these last 9 months, however sometimes in January or February I did actually changed the wheel alignment slightly. Still extreme, but a bit better. About a month or two ago I noticed there is a lot of noise on the freeway, and so I knew this tyre is about to go. Still, I have no issue of using it as daily driver, and the grip was actually still pretty damn good. However, two weeks ago I noticed front tyre was losing much its tread and now its completely gone. Made it even worse, its just the front right tyre, while the other three looks ok but definitely needs replacing anyway. I blame this on the alignment. However, I do think once this FK452 reached certain tread percentage it will rapidly chew the remaining left. Obviously at this point hard driving is a big no, but I supposed for daily drive even at this worn out condition the FK452 still communicates. Surely it is a bit oily and loose, but hey it is worn out. It was pouring like mad last weekend over here in Gold Coast, and it still able to go fairly well but this is always the selling point of FK452 - the extremely good wet weather condition handling. Comparing this to RE050A, the FK452 is not the better tyre. The RE050A has a better feel of the road, is more progressive and smoother on handling, on par when it comes to wet condition, don't wear rapidly near its end of life and stays quiet until the end. But the asking price of RE050A is just crazy, while the FK452 cost half but in my opinion is 90% as good as the RE050A. So the question is, will I buy this tyre again? Yes I will, but next time around it will do without the extreme wheel alignment I have at the moment. I am certain the tyre can last another 20,000km if the wheel alignment is somewhere within OEM specification. Which I believe is what this tyre is meant for to begin with. Now it is time for a different tyres. Tyres I had previously: Bridgestone G3 - (good sports tyre, replaced by RE001) Brigestone RE050A - (Very good all-purpose tyre) Falken Ziex 326 - (poor man sport's tyre) Falken FK452 - (Very good all-purpose tyre) Goodyear Eagle F1 (GS-D2?) - (this is the worse tyre I ever had, it can let go any moment without notice and its noisy!) At this point, I have a two options: 1. RE001 2. RT615 They are two different tyres indeed, and to be honest the RE001 is the better one for day to day. But the RT615 is rather irresistable with its performance focus, something I am keen on trying with the Celica. I give myself approx 1.5 years with these tyres, and I hope by tomorrow my mind is made up and get me some nice rubber once again.

Why not use Toyota gearbox oil? I use Toyota gearbox oil. Car is 120,000km+ and the gearbox still tight and not a single problem.

I work next to King Spring factory in QLD, everything looks yellow from here. Haha.

While on the topic of LSD, I just saw KAAZ new SuperQ clutch type LSD that looks very promising. http://www.kaazusa.com/superq/

Hey if it last a very long time then it's a sure win man. The last thing I want is weak diff coz the thing is very expensive to buy and install. So, looks like Clutch type LSD could be the only way to go then. I guess I won't truly know how TRD Clutch 1.5way feels like on Celica until I actualy have one. But everyone told me the clutch lsd will outperform helical anyday. And if the TRD clutch LSD drives fine and smooth on the street as I was told, then no point buying the Toyota Helical LSD.

I guess the good news is two celica owners confirmed the plate type TRD LSD is fine for the streets. But I do not know how long plate type LSD last, but seems like all it requires is regular LSD fluid change and should last a long time if it doesn't see extreme track days usage. But there is always Quiafe Helical LSD which probably is the best option with a premium price.

This is interesting.

So would regular tranny oil change be enough to keep the toyota helical running happy for a long time?

Did any of you guys bought bushings from Fulcrum? I remember they have one for Corolla with anti-lift and increase caster. May aswell get that one rather than just ordinary replacement bushing.

The centre three-tips exhaust is a tribute to the legendary F40. It has been a long time since Ferarri produced a beautiful looking car.

If only Jon did it up like that while we were all still in Melbourne. Looking very trick at the moment, good job.

Until it went off pace with the bass note! Damn, that is some serious port. If it is a port.

Holy s**t, that's heart attack waiting to happen!

They need to keep it long enough, then take it off. Hello wobble.

Not sure about room bar, but they do look like a nice foot rest for rear passenger.

Yeah, but it is quite a pleasant surprise for me when I got the TRD swaybars installed.

Another benefit of having a strut bar is to keep the chassis aligned. Ever wonder why some strut bar is adjustable? Because chassis flex and can go out of alignment, and fixed strut bar like TRD will not fit. Of course this is under extreme circumstances, but just to inform some of you guys. And another benefit of swaybars is you'll find the shock will be able to absorb bumb and settle quicker, which made driving more comfortable. Not many people seems to mention this. Could be because it's not the case with rear torsion beam and not having a front swaybar to find out. There are many benefits of having strut/swaybars, it's just a matter of knowing what you're after and go for it. But remember, swaybars/strutbars/alignment kit they are supporters and your shock and tyre are still the major players in suspension.

A bit extreme on the muffler, but looking good so far.

Even though the strut is one with the firewall in the Corolla, it still flexes. You probably won't notice it until you take off your strut bar and start to realise how comfortable but sloppy the steering is without it. And the difference is quite significant (I used Alutec strut bar). That's the first thing you'll notice. It actualy understeer more with it, but you can counter this with wheel alignment tuning. For daily driving, and depending on how much comfort you seek, it is more comfortable without strut bar. My recommnendation is change the swaybars first. I would change front and rear, but looks like everybody is happy by just changing the rear. Then go with shocks/springs or coilover shocks. Then finaly front and rear strut bar (optional). And if that's still not enough, then perhaps this will do; TRD rear member brace. There is one Corolla in Australia that use TRD rear member brace. It's a dealer's car actualy, somewhere in Sydney.

Nice. I'm gonna get one for my exhaust set up.

Sounds about right, considering K&N cost $100. Buy AEM.

It is expensive, but it is very rigid and precise. To install one you need to make sure both top mounts are line up properly - that's how precise it is. But still, as long as the strut bar is not flexing then it's all good. I personaly use C-One on my celica, but I can tell you I still think TRD is the top dog.

TRD is the way to go if you want Strut bar. The key is non-flexing bar, which I was told whiteline flexes. I used to have Alutec, that one is not bad and didn't flex much and it work I kid you not. Or maybe buy that Ultra Racing one as it is one piece and should be rigid. I thought someone is selling TRD strutbar in this forum, you should get it if you really want a strut bar.

The space between the firewall and the fluid container is less in RHD than LHD. It's for that reason the TRD USA front strut bar won't fit RHD.