riftime

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About riftime

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/28/1972

Profile Information

  • Would you be interested in attending club meetings?
    Yes
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Aurion Presara
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Victoria
  • Annual Mileage
    15,000 to 20,000

Legacy Data

  • Location
    Melbourne

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Robert

Recent Profile Visitors

3,569 profile views
  1. Pardon the ignorance please, how do you check for oil sludge? Where do you check and what's the criteria for good vs. bad?
  2. Thanks for your reply campbeam! Very informative. Car has just been serviced today. Engine code hasn't come back again other than that one time, will keep looking out for it. I wonder if I get an answer back from mechanic on whether 'timing chain' was diagnosed with oscilloscope. Also curious if they've at least cleared the code. I'll start changing oil and filter more frequently, though every 3,000 kms would make it every 3-6 weeks for me at this point which is a little aggressive and impractical 🙂 I do commute to city a few days a week but also take long country drives (~800kms round trip) during some weekends (sometimes towing a trailer). I'll also scour through the forums for recommended oil types. Prior oil change I did myself (oil & filter) using Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 Long Life. 6L bottle wasn't cheap from memory. Fingers crossed error code was just a symptom of dirty oil.
  3. Hi all, I’ve had my 2007 Presara since new, it’s travelled 255,000kms and still going pretty well. Over the weekend I’ve had the engine trouble light and CHECK VSC message pop up for a while during a long drive. Pulled over, stopped engine, let it sit and restarted and error promptly came back. I was in the middle of nowhere and after checking owners manual it pointed more to vehicle stability control issues and gave me confidence that I can continue my drive. The next day the error disappeared and hasn’t returned since. I’ve plugged in an OBD2 scanner and it found a P0015 fault code (camshaft position timing over-retarded). Took the car to a mechanic and after some troubleshooting they told me that the timing chain is ‘stretched’ and will need replacing at some point. Since it’s an internal component, lots of hours in labour so overall it’s likely to be a $1500-$2000 overall including the timing chain kit. I was told that I can expect consumption to keep deteriorating along with engine getting rougher as the chain keeps stretching/deteriorating. He did say that if it breaks it will leave me stranded but it shouldn’t cause any catastrophic damage inside the engine (thanks to engine design). So I have the option to wait until the then and have the car towed to get it repaired at that point. Googling for Aurion timing chain issues hasn’t returned much, so thought I’d ask this forum if others have had to get their timing chain replaced, if it’s an expected wear component for an Aurion that’s travelled this many kms, etc.? I should also point out that in the last few months I’ve been doing a lot of towing. Single axle trailer, nothing too heavy but long highway drives. Unsure whether the extra load could be a contributing factor to timing chain issue (car was towing when fault popped up). Thanks.
  4. Hi, My car is far out of warranty, I accepted living with driver-side lumbar electric mechanism not inflating/tightening, but recently passenger-side seat followed suit and the wife is not happy. Curious if anyone has attempted to repair the electric lumbar support in Presara seats themselves? Unsure of complexity/difficulty given the leather seats, side air bags, not to mention cost of parts likely to be the culprit. Thanks.
  5. Hi all, I haven't used this forum in a while, apology if this is a known issue and already answered. If so, please point me to the relevant thread, a few minutes of searching didn't yield positive hits. About a month ago I had my 2007 Presara serviced. Cost almost $1,000 due to the major service and I asked for transmission to be serviced as well. Front brakes were changed, along with some 'tightening'. This is what I call it, unsure what it's technically called, suspect they just check and tighten suspension related bolts and engine mounts? The car overall feels 'tighter' now, and a front-end rattle that I previously failed to identify magically went away. However, at times (not always) when I apply the brakes gently at low speeds there's an occasional clicking or minor knocking coming from the front end. Wasn't there before. It's not a pebble in the tyre (or the like) as it sometimes clicks numerous times while the wheel wouldn't have made a complete revolution. The clicking sequence/pattern is not always the same. Breaking medium or hard will not make noise. Braking at higher speed won't make any noise either. Only happens when braking gently at low speeds in a straight line. Wondering if anyone has ideas of what this might be? Could it be ball joint related, or maybe sway bar links worn bushes that are now clicking/knocking due to additional stress after the general front -end 'tightening'? Maybe CV joints? I'm fishing here to see if any of you can relate with identical symptoms and what you found the root cause and solution to be. Thanks!
  6. So this problem got worse and worse for me over last 6 months. Quite embarrassing when starting the car, it would actually attract a lot of attention and the sound carried on for up to two full seconds on occasions. Meanwhile, my battery has been on the downhill, all leading up to me buying a brand new battery. I changed the battery over myself, and then miraculously the "VVTi" noise became insignificant. Hardly there at times, subtle at other times. All I did was change the battery. An oil-based explanation seemed much more plausible. The engine used to take a lot longer to start (and some times fail to) towards the end of prior battery. Upon battery change, engine start is quick again. Maybe with the extra current the engine parts can reach the operating parameters much faster and hence reduced this problem? That's the only explanation I can come up with. Perhaps that actually confirms that it's an oil based problem, if engine takes longer to start it follows that oil will take longer to get to all the parts? Given the level of noise I was putting up with before, this is most acceptable now. :) Now I can focus my annoyance on the HID bulb turning off occasionally. Grrrr....
  7. Hi there LordBug, thanks for recording it, it's been on my to-do list for ages. I've had limited success in 'describing' that sound to mechanics. My car is a Presara Nov 2007 that's travelled 110,000. It's been making EXACTLY that sound now for a few months. Getting more frequent now, mostly on cold starts. More recently the car has also been taking longer to actually start, not sure if related or not (push button start). Used to take 1-2 seconds to start, now seems to take 3-4 seconds. On last trip to Melb City Toyota for servicing I was told that it's the VVTI controller thingy, and it's an expensive repair. Reading through this post, seems that a few people have the problem. Has anyone successfully rectified it? Thanks,
  8. Hi, I've had my intermediate shaft changed some 1-2 yrs ago under warranty. Since then warranty has expired. Lo and behold, the noise is back, and I'm pretty sure it's the intermediate shaft again (exactly the same symptoms as described in this thread as well as those experienced last time they fixed it). I suppose this time the repairs would be out of my own pocket right? Not sure of the fine print in warranty repairs, perhaps the repairs are warrented for 12 months only, and not the life of the car? If this is a common/known problem, wouldn't it be categorised as a design defect, and therefore Toyota liable to either come up with an improved part to permanently fix the problem, or repair it at their own expense? This isn't exactly a 'consumable' part. I noticed the mention of the technical bulletin which no longer requires changing the part (I guess it was motivated by the cost of warranty repairs ). Does anyone know what the Toyota dealers would charge to perform the work outlined in the bulletin (whatever it entails)? Thanks.
  9. Interior & gizmos look identical to the current presara in australia. The tail light are ugly, the current lights on the aurion are a simpler and neater design.
  10. How impractical would those cars be! You'd have to program your sat nav with all known speed humps as obstacles TO AVOID !!! Not to mention driveways, shopping parking kerbs, etc... You barely clear a cigarette butt without scraping it off the road. :) Potential material for funniest home videos - an aurion wanna-be sea saw, at every speed hump.
  11. Hi, I did a quick search on the forum, but nothing useful found on the topic. I find my Presara's horn too soft. Firstly it doesn't suit the car, secondly I'm not sure that other drivers hear it if their radio is anything above medium. My other cars (Calais and Fairlane) have good / adequate horns, whereas the Aurion is too soft. I'm not keen on becoming a menace either (no air horns please), but I am wondering if there are any horn replacement units out there that are not as pathetic. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  12. DJKOR, do you replace the pollen filter or just clean it? Don't know what it looks like and whether it can be cleaned. Is it somewhere behind the glove compartment? Thanks.
  13. I had a white car for the last 10 years, my new Aurion is black. I must say that white was so easy to maintain when comparing to black! However, many people were not keen on white, even heard of some stats a while back indicating that white has less appeal and thereby not having the same resale value... I'm surprised by your comment that white is a best seller in the car yard. Yes, it does look good with a dark tint. The contrast makes the tint appear even darker than it actually is.
  14. Are you after a scoop for additional cooling, or just for looks? If the latter, you could just stick one on without cutting anything. It would of course provide no cooling benefit.